Grinding Before Blasting?

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dabarino

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Grinding before blasting
How is everyone grinding there pounds up before blasting? I cut mine with scissors and it really sucks! I've been saying for a while now that I'm going to build a "one pound" low rpm electric grinder. Anyone everyone build something similar or know of a thread that might help me out. Right now it takes me pretty much a day to chop up a pound by hand with all the distraction that I get around the house. I want to turn that day into a couple minutes..
 
Douglas.C

Douglas.C

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coffee grinder. Grinding reduces volume and requires less solvent. Easier to overpack though, keep it loose enough to pass solvent.

I've started using dry ice and simply making dry ice hash in a closed bucket. The powder requires significantly less solvent.
 
rmoltis

rmoltis

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View attachment 664072 How is everyone grinding there pounds up before blasting? I cut mine with scissors and it really sucks! I've been saying for a while now that I'm going to build a "one pound" low rpm electric grinder. Anyone everyone build something similar or know of a thread that might help me out. Right now it takes me pretty much a day to chop up a pound by hand with all the distraction that I get around the house. I want to turn that day into a couple minutes..

Once my buds are cured and fully dried out. I drop the buds in my magic bullet and they turn to dust.

Helps a lot with the efficiency of extraction. If your buds aren't dried fully they will sticky and gum it up.

But when dry they turn to powder for me. And you can always rinse out the container with iso if need be.
 
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dabarino

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I just bought a closed loop my understanding is 5lbs of butane to 1lb of material regardless of how it is cut up... and also a coffee grinder is out of the question I'll stick to my scissor before I butcher buds like that... thanks for the response tho. My buds are also very much dry I have never encountered a problem with buds getting sticky or anything ever guming up in my pressurized closed column extractor before again thanks for the response but im more looking for a "LOW RPM grinder" something that will reletivly gently grind my buds up one pound at a time
 
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dabarino

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I seen a video that someone like dabstars or world of dabs posted a while back of a 2 pound grinder before that used "weed wacker" style wire blades and it looked like it did a gentle job of breaking buds up
 
rmoltis

rmoltis

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Im just curious Why does it have to be gentle?

Your grinding it up so you can strip the oil from the plant matter. Then your gonna collect and combine the resulting yield.

The more surface area you expose. The more efficient the extraction.
 
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dabarino

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"But when dry they turn to powder for me. And you can always rinse out the container with iso if need be." I'm trying to avoid using multiple solvents for my extractions. And I like to keep as many heads on the trichs as possible. Call it what ever you want( personal prefenrace, " the right way" old school or what ever. ) but i always get better yields and a much better quality product when I use pieces around the size of a .1. I don't winterize with an ethanol wash I would only do that if I had some way of reclaiming my solvent.( I'm getting a roto Vape and short path eventually!) but I always end up with a "dirty" product if I use powder for a starting material.. only ever ran 2 ounces of powder but that was my experience
 
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dabarino

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I've done second runs on my material with my 1 once tube before same everything I get a 21.9% return the way I'm doing things now for first run and like a .35-.5 of black/green garbage looking oil on my second run. I only got 18 point something with the powder. Never tried a second run. I honestly think I'm doing everything right and I'm very proud of those numbers. If you have good results doing things your way then I'm happy to hear that but this is the way I run my lab and I don't have any plans on changing it. Thanks for the opinion tho
 
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dabarino

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@rmoltis either way at this point I'd almost be willing to give one try only if I had a big enough one to fit a pound in and grind it in minutes I would imagine I'd still be close to an hour grinding a pound or more up with a magic bullet or coffee grinder. I kinda got got carried off my own topic I guess I'm looking for the time savings I would get if I could grind all my material at the same time and would be willing to sacrifice some trich heads if I could seriously speed my process up
 
rmoltis

rmoltis

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@rmoltis either way at this point I'd almost be willing to give one try only if I had a big enough one to fit a pound in and grind it in minutes I would imagine I'd still be close to an hour grinding a pound or more up with a magic bullet or coffee grinder

I hope I didn't come off sounding critical of your technique. I was just offering an opinion.

If you prefer the 2 wash technique for different qualities it makes sense.

For me personally I do %99 ipa washes. I prefer a more full extract. More Rick Simpson Oil style.

I want to use it for medicine Ingested, mixed into food, capsules, topical etc sometimes. So the fuller extract has got more medicinal benefit. I also prefer the high the full profile brings.

So I aim for max/full yield during a single concentration session.


But if you like separating your grades, it sounds like your well off doing things your way.
 
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dabarino

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No worries I'm open to people's opinions and I love learning new things im not shy I'll tell someone to fuck off if there pissing me off haha....I don't actually separate my grades like that I only occasionally do that in the name of science to see how much cannabanoids are still left in the material. I was only using that as an example to explain that I get 21.9% return off of my first run and only a .35-.5 of black/ green garbage on a second run I'm just saying I think I'm pretty much extracting everything worth extracting on my first run. I was just saying I don't think I have a problem with using big chunks. I do how ever take all my "blasted material" and soak over night (lol)
In 99% ISO and make what I call "crude oil" the old French guys that live out in wood s love that shit they know what it's made with how it's made and they still pay 10$ a g straight up haha..
 
rmoltis

rmoltis

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No worries I'm open to people's opinions and I love learning new things im not shy I'll tell someone to fuck off if there pissing me off haha....I don't actually separate my grades like that I only occasionally do that in the name of science to see how much cannabanoids are still left in the material. I was only using that as an example to explain that I get 21.9% return off of my first run and only a .35-.5 of black/ green garbage on a second run I'm just saying I think I'm pretty much extracting everything worth extracting on my first run. I was just saying I don't think I have a problem with using big chunks. I do how ever take all my "blasted material" and soak over night (lol)
In 99% ISO and make what I call "crude oil" the old French guys that live out in wood s love that shit they know what it's made with how it's made and they still pay 10$ a g straight up haha..

LOL nice. I keep all my washed plant material in a freezer iso jar. I also collect oil reclaim from my bong and add it to the juice.

Whenever it fills up I'll give it an evap & purge. It's even more crude than your crude lmao.

Looks gross but I figure let nothing go to waste. I'll collect and save it up. If it piles up too much over time I may make ridiculously potent edible/s.

It would be great to give your friends some edibles. Many people I've met believe they never work well . Then boom off to the moon they go.


Its been a while since I used butane.
It does a much better job at not extracting all the chlorophyll and such when compared to the iso.

I guess I've just settled into the iso mentality lol.
 
DrMcSkunkins

DrMcSkunkins

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I took all the guts out of a coffee grinder to make a smoother surface thats easier to clean out. It works great, a few taps and an ounce is fine powder.
 
Graywolf

Graywolf

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Extracts range from full plant extract raw oleoresins, to pristine museum quality dabbing shatter, and how you prepare it has an effect on the end result.

Starting with moisture, if you fully dry them material, you will also drive off the aromatic monoterpenes, so the medicinal effects, aroma, and flavor will be different. I like to extract on about the fifth day of hanging, or when the small stems snap.

Still highly aromatic, but ~>75% moisture removed and enough to allow the material to be frozen at -17C/0F. The freezing will slow down extraction of the C-30 molecules more than the C-10/C-22 molecules, resulting in less chlorophyll, anthro cyanins, and plant waxes.

When process low quality trim in bulk, we baked it at 200F in a forced air convection oven, and then scrubbed it through a ten mesh screen. That packed at about 4.1 grams per cubic inch and typically yielded under <10% of raw oleoresin run at ambient temperature.

For bragging rights show and tell aromatic, tasty and downright gawgus museum quality dabable concentrates, or (BRSSATATADGMQDC) for short and to make it easier to remember, I select only choice buds and break them up by hand to around 1/2", pack it at around 3.8 grams/cubic inch, and after capping the column to exclude air, freeze it to -14C/0F, and quickly mount the column and pull a vacuum once I start to process it.

I extract with < -30/40C LPG, and keep the recovery pot bath at 70F, doing final recovery using cotton candy techniques.

The reason I hand break up the material, is that although the sweet Mary charms that we seek, are on the surface in trichomes, much of the C-30 stuff that we don't want, such as chlorophyll and anthrocyanins, are inside the plant cells and the more of the ruptured cells that you expose to the LPG, the more will come along for the ride and the darker your concentrate will be.
 
Douglas.C

Douglas.C

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Sorry, won't touch iso the stuff is nasty. People might be able to make clean extracts in a real lab, with real equipment but the common kitchen iso extract is garbage.

The reason I use dry-ice is so I don't have to use as much ethanol. Food grade or nothing, for myself/friends/family.
 
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dabarino

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"For bragging rights show and tell aromatic, tasty and downright gawgus museum quality dabable concentrates, or (BRSSATATADGMQDC) for short and to make it easier to remember, I select only choice buds and break them up by hand to around 1/2", pack it at around 3.8 grams/cubic inch, and after capping the column to exclude air, freeze it to -14C/0F, and quickly mount the column and pull a vacuum once I start to process it".

Hilarious hahaha this is what I'm looking for and also very informative.. so you suggest I keep on doing things the way I'm doing then.. maybe I'll just hire my wife to be my bud chopper she's a pretty good trimmer lol


I only pack to about 2.6 grams per cubic in maybe I should try packing s little tighter
 
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rascali

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and a few other subtleties to consider....

over-processing (grinding) the material breaks open plant cell walls which release undesirable contents into your extract. (as Graywolf noted) However, furthermore, now those open cells act as tiny sponges that absorb and hold a portion of your extract that you will never recover.

and then there's the pre-concentrating methodology using bubble bags or dry ice - sure, it's fast and easy but you're leaving a lot of medicine (and flavor) behind in the specialized trichome heads that are not extracted with those techniques.
 
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dabarino

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Another way to process larger batches faster, with minimal downgrading, is to scrub them through a 1/2" mesh stainless screen. Check out frame at :

https://skunkpharmresearch.com/bho-extraction/

thats a very crude way of doing things lol it took me a few minutes of starring at it but i think i get how it works just place the buds between 2 screens and start rubbing them together until you get the desired ground upness. i may give that a try eventually
 
ShroomKing

ShroomKing

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Is there anything that "gently grinds"?
Seems like an oxymoron.
I know coffee grinders work for small operations and seems to be the norm.
 
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