Canna Coco

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spyderaz

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The NPK of A+B is apparently 5-3-3 Yet on A it also says 4-0-1 and on B it also says 1-4-1. Added together that's 5-4-2...What gives?

Also, why do they need to be used to get er when ya can probably get away with 'A' for veg and 'B' for flower?
 
KneeDeep34

KneeDeep34

235
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The NPK of A+B is apparently 5-3-3 Yet on A it also says 4-0-1 and on B it also says 1-4-1. Added together that's 5-4-2...What gives?

Also, why do they need to be used to get er when ya can probably get away with 'A' for veg and 'B' for flower?
Well, I've noticed that with a&b formulas, it's more about micro and macro nutrients.. also, I found this on their website this might help ya
"
Why A&B nutrients?
CANNA COCO nutrient consists of two parts, an A part and a B part. We separate these parts for a reason. The amounts of Calcium and Phosphate that have to be present for the nutrient to do its job properly are quite high. When you put such highly concentrated elements in one bottle they will conflict with each other sometimes resulting in a slimy residue. When you separate these two elements from each other, then mix both of them with the water in your nutrient reservoir later on,there is no problem.
 
Ryesty

Ryesty

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KneeDeep34 put it about as best as it can be described. You need both parts to make a complete nutrient, they can’t be stored together. They have to be stored separate until mixed into water. You feed with only one part you only have part of what you need
 
KneeDeep34

KneeDeep34

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KneeDeep34 put it about as best as it can be described. You need both parts to make a complete nutrient, they can’t be stored together. They have to be stored separate until mixed into water. You feed with only one part you only have part of what you need
Exactly my point... He was asking about the NPK analysis of A for veg and B for Flower. I don't really know how better to break it down... I think that what he is not understanding is that the A part most likely has the majority of major nutes while B has the majority of Micro nutes or vise versa. There is, for example, the Flora series of nutes by General Hydroponics that has three parts. Grow, bloom and micro. And no matter what stage your in you have to use them all.... If a one part is what this guy wants, I recommend a General Hydroponics again lol (not plugging them I swear lol) it's called Maxi Grow and Maxi Bloom. Super easy one part powder. Works amazingly with Kool Bloom (liquid or powdered)
 
Irishmartin

Irishmartin

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I mix my all in 1 big tank get temp then check p.h then feed the lady's
 
Ryesty

Ryesty

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Exactly my point... He was asking about the NPK analysis of A for veg and B for Flower. I don't really know how better to break it down... I think that what he is not understanding is that the A part most likely has the majority of major nutes while B has the majority of Micro nutes or vise versa. There is, for example, the Flora series of nutes by General Hydroponics that has three parts. Grow, bloom and micro. And no matter what stage your in you have to use them all.... If a one part is what this guy wants, I recommend a General Hydroponics again lol (not plugging them I swear lol) it's called Maxi Grow and Maxi Bloom. Super easy one part powder. Works amazingly with Kool Bloom (liquid or powdered)
I use GH also I’ve tried them all it seems. I’ve bought the high dollar brands and they worked great, just not enough difference for the cost. To each there own. No matter what though like you said you have to use the correct blend other than the one part lines or it doesn’t work.
 
Irishmartin

Irishmartin

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For me flowerng veg easy my hardst part is seedling stage I'm doing 5x bigbudx whitewidow 5x blue cheese 1 lemon haze 3x critical 8 dream machine what should humity temp be in seedling stage it' been a while
 
KneeDeep34

KneeDeep34

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For me flowerng veg easy my hardst part is seedling stage I'm doing 5x bigbudx whitewidow 5x blue cheese 1 lemon haze 3x critical 8 dream machine what should humity temp be in seedling stage it' been a while
First off... Good choice on blue cheese!!!! In my top favorites. Good taste, buzz, look and yield... But to answer your question, I honestly don't know lol in seedling stage I don't pay much attention to humidity unless I can cut the air with a knife lol I never expect to have 100% of my seedlings make it. Most of the time I have no casualties but expecting 1 or 2 to die or stunt, and have 100%, makes it great. Not to mention a male or two if not using feminized seeds... As for the humidity itself, I can just tell you what I look for. Basically if your rockwool cubes or jiffy pellets ect, dry out at a steady pace (4-7 days) then that should be fine. There are only two things I really worry with seedlings. Stem rot and stretching. You avoid that and your golden. Then when in aggressive veg pay more attention be to humidity. Any R/H between 65%-80% depending on strain. Some like more. Some less.
 
Ryesty

Ryesty

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I pretty much keep mine in a humidity dome until there looking good and green and have a few roots showing. That’s when I transplant into it’s next stage. When I start from seed I usually go to some ocean forest dirt. I keep my moms in dirt, they grow at a good rate and are fairly low maintenance to me. I have started seeds in rapid rooters and rock wool cubes. You can transplant into anything from there.
 
Irishmartin

Irishmartin

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I use coco mine had big root so I put in coco under 200wt temps 21c humity 60no feed yet
 
Kdenhayn808

Kdenhayn808

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I only had enough to get a,b and the boost,my questions when do u start using the boost?it says here to use it during flowering or bloom stages but, what I wanna know is if it's alright to use it in veg?
Mahalos (thank you)
 
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