Calling All Window Shaker Ac Users

[DemonTrich]

Calling all window shaker a.c. users to chime in here. I'm looking to replace.my 14k portable with a 14k window shaker unit. I have a couple questions for those who have missed one for indoor use that have fabbd up an exhaust box for the unit.

1 how do you collect the water runoff when boxing it in?

2 when installed in a normal window application (house), does a window shaker cause a neg air pressure in the room, or can this be used in a sealed room with out any neg or positive pressure issues?

I plan on I stalling this unit in my room. Only having the front of the unit in the room, fabbing up a box for the back half for the exhaust to exit my building.


Thanks for the help. If it works like I think it does. I'll swap my portable for this window shaker and now the back/exhaust. I'll also post up the diy and everything that goes with it.

@CannabisJohn

 

[heisen]

theres no negative pressure inside the room like a portable.Portables suck plain and simple.Tried to put one in my boat and it was garbage.
you can exhaust the hot air but your also gonna need a line pulling air in to the outside of the ac or your gonna create negative pressure inside the box.That ac wont pull any air from inside your cooled room to the outside like a portable.

I did this already on a similar setup in an outside camper and it worked good.I didnt even exhaust the hot air i just opened up the windows in the room that the outside of the ac was sitting in.

 

[heisen]

another thing you can do is get some 6 inch duct registers and tape them where the cool air comes out and route them in your room.
This is what i did with the camper ac.I put a register over the cold air outake and put a T on it.I direct cold air to a closet and also to a back room.Than my scrubber pulls air from both with a T on it so cold air goes into the other 2 rooms.Its all set up nice as long as your warmer air makes it back to the ac intake vent.

 

[DemonTrich]

I already something similar with my current setup.

I use a 6" 440 cfm fan on a speed controller to help evacuate the exhaust out my 20' of duct work. You'll also notice the fabbd ductwork I have blowing into my flower room. This set up works flawlessly for the past 3+yrs. I use co2 in a sort of sealed/recirculated room.

My idea is to cut a space in my room, slide and secure the new wi dow shaker in about half way. Box the back amd exhaust that out the room. Looking at the pic of the window shaker, there are vents on the sides. I believe I can leave those open, I think those are to draw air in for the compressor. I'm not worried about that air it will suck in. My portable does the same thing currently.

 

[MidwestToker]

I drill a hole in the bottom of the drip pan and run a hose to my floor drain. I don't rember how many watts you're running, but you probably could've downsized a little over a portable.

 

[DemonTrich]

Currently running 4x315 in a.c. hoods. If I make the switch to the 14k window shaker, I'll go open hoods. And i may add more lights in the future. Id rather have too bug an ac vs one that struggles to keep up.

 

[DemonTrich]

@StandingRock

Can you post up how you did your exhaust on your units.

Thanks

 

[StandingRock]

@DemonTrich
I have two 5000 btu ac units. The first two photos are of the one venting into one half of my basement. The second photo is the other half and you can see I braced it with 2x4s. Both are built this way. I lightproofed the insides with rubber spray in a can. With these two units running constantly my basement is perhaps 3-5 degrees warmer at about 73 or 75 degrees. Not bad. The furnace for the house has two holes cut in it to suck some hot air out and blow cold air in. It works great.

Now regarding your questions it will not cause any negative air pressure anywhere, and no smell really gets out that I have been able to smell. Also I have no water leaking off the condenser. I believe that only happens with certain humidities and temperatures. I keep my exhaust room fairly dry at 40% humidity and I believe that prevents it.

I don't know your situation, but as far as set up goes if I were you I would simply exhaust the room you are exhausting into, rather than creating a box exhaust. If that makes sense.

 

[DemonTrich]

I use my basement as a "air dump". No fresh air in, only portable a.c. exhaust out of a custom plexiglass window insert for a basement window.

 

[DemonTrich]

Did some digging

Here's a few threads on a DIY window shaker a.c. unit using a built and sealed exhaust box.

I have about 4 weeks until harvest. That means I have 3 weeks to buy and build my.new a.c. setup. Then go fully sealed, ditch the a.c. hoods for open hoods.

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=95491

http://michiganmedicalmarijuana.org/topic/20783-window-air-conditioner-made-portable/

 

[DemonTrich]

Little read on thru wall window ac units
https://www.sylvane.com/thru-wall-air-conditioner-buying-guide.html#vs

 

[EventHorizan]

Did some digging

Here's a few threads on a DIY window shaker a.c. unit using a built and sealed exhaust box.

I have about 4 weeks until harvest. That means I have 3 weeks to buy and build my.new a.c. setup. Then go fully sealed, ditch the a.c. hoods for open hoods.

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=95491

http://michiganmedicalmarijuana.org/topic/20783-window-air-conditioner-made-portable/

your gonna use them mogul adapters in batwings with phillips bulbs?

 

[DemonTrich]

your gonna use them mogul adapters in batwings with phillips bulbs?

I use big kahuna hoods. But you can use the adapters in any mogul socket in any hood. Wasn't sure what and who you were asking.


Pulled the trigger on this bad boy today. I figured in about 2 yrs, when I move and upgrade to a bigger room, the 15k will still be able to handle an upgrade. I'm not too happy it's being delivered to my fn door, vs picking it up in store. It's a 102lb beast, is rather move it 2x (in and out the jeep).
Builder buddy of mine is coming to the spot to build a support shelf for this monster for me. He Says it will take him 30 mins. Maybe for him, me 3+hrs. Gonna use r-10 board, a lot! Of 3m flex tape, and existing r8 flex duct. Make a drain, and have it at a slight -* angle in case the drain pan fills too deep with water. It splashes water on condenser to help cool. It never gets above 80* in my lung room, where the unit will get the air to cool the compressor. 13 days until kick-OFF (harvest n fab weekend).

My current LG 14k portable is about done. And it 599 to replace and not as efficient as the window shaker.

 

[EventHorizan]

I use big kahuna hoods. But you can use the adapters in any mogul socket in any hood. Wasn't sure what and who you were asking.


Pulled the trigger on this bad boy today. I figured in about 2 yrs, when I move and upgrade to a bigger room, the 15k will still be able to handle an upgrade. I'm not too happy it's being delivered to my fn door, vs picking it up in store. It's a 102lb beast, is rather move it 2x (in and out the jeep).
Builder buddy of mine is coming to the spot to build a support shelf for this monster for me. He Says it will take him 30 mins. Maybe for him, me 3+hrs. Gonna use r-10 board, a lot! Of 3m flex tape, and existing r8 flex duct. Make a drain, and have it at a slight -* angle in case the drain pan fills too deep with water. It splashes water on condenser to help cool. It never gets above 80* in my lung room, where the unit will get the air to cool the compressor. 13 days until kick-OFF (harvest n fab weekend).

My current LG 14k portable is about done. And it 599 to replace and not as efficient as the window shaker.

Well do you think its safe to run them phillips bulbs in them open air batwings with a mogul socket adapter? Ive read about fire from bulbs shattering...

 

[DemonTrich]

Hammerhead is the one that had a bulb failure. I dont remember the details, just he happened to be in his room when it happened.

If your gonna run in an open hood, you need the t12 type of Philips bulbs. The t12 are double jacketed, made specifically for open hood use. The t9 are single jacket, made for enclosed hoods.

 

[EventHorizan]

Hammerhead is the one that had a bulb failure. I dont remember the details, just he happened to be in his room when it happened.

If your gonna run in an open hood, you need the t12 type of Philips bulbs. The t12 are double jacketed, made specifically for open hood use. The t9 are single jacket, made for enclosed hoods.

just seen that! Good looking out! Thats the difference

 

[DemonTrich]

Holy shit, this 15k window unit is massive! And that's putting it lightly. Should have bought the 12k. Lol

I'll post up how I fab up the exhaust box. I may need to upgrade my 6" 440 cfm fan for an 8" 720 cfm fan for the exhaust, per recommended by cannabisjohn. I'm glad I have a lot of spare stuff around.

 

[tinderthumbs]

blam check this bad boy out lol

I never knew that 140f air would come out the back of it

 

[DemonTrich]

Hell yeah. I'm betting if you swap that plastic bin for some r10 foam board, you'll drop 5*+ in that area alone. I even use r8 flex duct and dropped 5* from that alone.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Owens-Co...uared-Edge-Insulation-Sheathing-45W/100320352

Also I've found duct tape will delaminate after 2 yrs in the heat. 3m hvac flex tape is super bad ass.

 

[tinderthumbs]

I was not thinking 2 year I was thinking if it last weeks with out touch up id be super happy still trying to find where I want to hang it

if u seem my other post room was pushing 117f now its in the 70s 30 + - I think is well worth it I

I have some spare foam bored I been eyeing on about making a box bc yes that plastic gets HOT with foam bored I was wondering how hot before fire mine says keep away from heat or is that something r10 is good for??