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Potassium really kicks up the yield and oil content late flower. This thread is merely how to get the best product with as few inputs as possible.

I'm no expert, I just try to learn something new every day. Please see cannabis Ca needs in the attached picture. Jack's already did your homework for you with their full nutrient lineup. What I posted with Jack's Classic Hydro start to finish just has a couple tweaks to make it more effective...

PEG-400 is typically used as an emulsifier. It looks like they used some kind of saponin, perhaps? Sea Green used to do the same thing. You can safely throw a Gas-X in your res as the main ingredient is an industrial anti-foaming agent.

If you have the full Jack's lineup, use it as their feed chart recommends. The method that I posted is a way to get a fantastic output with the least amount of inputs. Plant calcium needs are greatest pre-transition and transition and are lower in flower.

Definitely sounds like root rot. Increase your H2O2 dosage or use something like Root Cleaner, UC Roots or Athena Cleanse.

Plant Prod is a good company. Just account for the lower nitrates/higher Ca when running the numbers.

Your mixing order is correct. Pro Mix is pre-buffered and ready to go. You may have to mix 2.4 g/gallon cal-nit/.H2O when you expand your coco blocks to buffer the sodium/calcium. Follow the feed chart with CCH2O Cultured Solutions fertilizer. They did the work for you. RDWC is going to be...

As long as it is dissolved, you can use it right away.

RO is great. If tap water is used, it may require pH down from the carbonates.

Here is Dr. Daniel Fernandez' (who made Hydrobuddy software) take on a soluble silica recipe: https://scienceinhydroponics.com/2021/03/how-to-make-your-own-stabilized-mono-silicic-acid-for-use-in-hydroponics.html

Have you ever had distillate products like in an edible?

Potassium silicate at max solubility tends to fall out with cold or if oversaturated with anything else. I still add ortho/monosilicic first to avoid precipitation with potential contradictions from chitosan or fulvic acid, which tend to be more soluble and are added last.

Do you homework. Follow label directions. If it doesn't work, try something else until it does! It is used to sterilize the reservoir in hydroponics. It is incompatible with organics like fulvic and kelp. If you want to run organics inputs in hydro use Southern Ag Garden Friendly Fungicide...

This pH would certainly work in soil buffered with lime. In coco or rockwool, you are going to want to pull that pH down to 5.5-6.0 knowing that it is going to drift up as your medium dries down. I hit my best yields with hand watered PromixCC. Now I'm cheap and just use 5kg coco blocks with...

Master Blend is just another cheap complete hydroponic salt with the addition of cal nit. They can virtually be used identically. I would suggest adding 1g/gallon epsom salt if you are sun-grown, LED or CMH. Grow Genius and PowerSi are great soluble silicas that won't jack up your pH like...

~50 ppm P helps micro absorption. I don't have access to Hydrobuddy, but I think I'm running ~30-40 and am doing well.

Calcium needs are highest at transition. Try metalosate calcium, calcium EDTA or acetate foliar or drench. Reducing feed when they have unique needs at a time like flip is only going to stunt the plants.

That's a good observation. I personally use an isotonic solution for flushing. Some people use homemade Clearex. Mr. Fulvic also works to maintain osmotic pressure when flushing. It gives more residual weight, terpenes and better shelf life as a perishable product. For more information...

Calcium is rarely strain dependent. Pure sativas don't like a heavy EC. If you have a Kush for example that is a heavy feeder, just raise your base fertilizer a bit. Cal-Mag is a band-aid to sell you more stuff at the hydro store. If your plants are burning, always water until 10-25% runoff...