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What's missing? I think Micro contains it all.

Curious to see how this turns out. Did you originally receive a clone or did you grow from seed? I've read a few reports of this plant being very leafy which is what discouraged me from ever giving in to curiosity.

I hope you realize dinosaurs have been extinct for millions of years and not tens of thousands of years. As for the actual age of the seeds, probably no where near 10 000 assuming that the information is true the oldest seeds were carbon dated at 2000 years, the 2nd oldest at 1300 years...

They do say that it's 5% P205 and not 5% P. The 0-5-4 or whatever it is is misleading but on the back the labels say 5% Phosphorus from P205 , whatever soluble potash from K2O, etc.

Some seed are meant to keep longer than others. A huge factor is size, indica seeds have more moisture where sativas have less moisture, indicas given natural storage conditions will not last as long as sativas. Where have you heard of 10 000 year old seeds germinated? I haven't searched...

Bloom @ 16ml = 106 PPM P It's not 5% elemental P but 5% P2O5 aka phosphate pentoxide. I'm not sure how you got your 210 ppm value? Use a nutrient calculator and it will simplify things.

you could also do top offs in your reservoir adding entirely the same nutrients as you previously had this would tell you what's consumed faster/slower than you're adding it. it wouldn't be exact but you could tailor fertilizers to work with specific plants using such a method.

my understanding is non composted manures such as bat and sea bird guano (yes also poultry) will add NPK but won't contribute to the beneficial life. I wonder how some compost teas become complete like Pure Blend Pro for example.

Lately I've had interest in gaining knowledge on compost tea. So it turns out that compost tea isn't that useful for it's NPK values but for it's large amounts of bacteria, fungi, protozoa's, and nematodes. Essentially all of the stuff you'd find in a good soil but suspended in liquid in far...

I've never used Gravity but I've used Superthrive and noticed leaf abnormalities and stopped using it. Superthrive also burns plants like no other. I hear Gravity is very hot and you need to cut down on your feeding of everything else just to use it. Thanks for the info.

How do you know Gravity has GAA?

If he included what tissues were tested it would make more sense. I understand that the vascular tissues, root and shoot tips contain the most phosphorus. Foliage holds a lot of nitrogen so I assume he must have tested a leave sample.

This claim is for the system they have. You use 4ml/gal of base nutes and 2 ml/gal of the additives and that's all apparently. I will still pH but PPM isn't really necessary if you know your nutes and use RO or know your water supply.

On the charts it went N P K Mg Ca

he uses gas chromatography to measure the abundance of nutrients found in the plant tissues I believe. Wouldn't it be possible to measure the ratios of nutrients up taken by this way?

http://www.growersunderground.com/blog/hydroponics-articles/the-great-phosphorus-myth-exposed So basically AN's CEO/Spokesman Big Mike says he had a bunch of tissue analysis' via gas chromatography to graph the nutrient needs of various popular plants such as White Rhino, Northern Lights...

what products you use? what rates per gal do you use them at? I'm going to give these a try because I heard they're easily soluble more so than GH Maxi and I'm all about ease of use and cost of nutrients.

I've yet to use the Goldline but I've used the Zone and the old Advanced 2part bloom formula. Anyone using the gold line? How do you guys like it? cheers, captain.koons

the 50w per sq ft minimum was written in a marijuana botany book i think clarke's as an optimal amount of light. more can be utilized, Swerve uses 100w per sq ft and gets great results. I've used anywhere from 60-90. plant spacing is completely opinionated, I say regardless of your plant...

looking good mate. I hope your burmese kush turn out like the pictures :o I'll be following this one.