24x24 Uninsulated Garage In New England Build Out?

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Poor dirt

Poor dirt

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Plus if you insulate the room enough it should only take a little to keep you at temp while lights off , my plants love cooler nights so I'd say as long as u can stay 50+ you should be golden , or maybe have your rooms split so when the lights in one go out the other powers up , would prolly keep ur ambient temps up in the garage enough through winter especially if your venting into dead space of garage , sorry for broken messages just thought of this
 
ChickenDicks

ChickenDicks

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Thanks for the tips bro. This is going to be a sealed room so I can't pull or vent any air in or out of it. Hopefully 72k btu worth of mini split ls will keep the room under control even with a co2 burner.
 
fatawa

fatawa

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Thanks for the tips bro. This is going to be a sealed room so I can't pull or vent any air in or out of it. Hopefully 72k btu worth of mini split ls will keep the room under control even with a co2 burner.
when yur outside yur garage,is it clear that it is a garage?i ask because if it is attactchd u can vent out roof n make it look like a stink pipe vent,or if yur scrubbing the air get a dryer flap down low..trust me where there a will theres a way
 
fatawa

fatawa

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I hav the 48k mini n a much bigger space then yur talking n it does good.n i rock 8k of hps so yurs shud b much cooler.im not as north as u but i get -20 w/windchill here also...we get ft's of snow occasionaly all that so imo yur good.
 
ChickenDicks

ChickenDicks

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Ok you mean to vent the garage in this manner if I place the mini condensers inside the garage right? If I place them outside will this cause any issues with their performance? I'm not worried about them being seen. I have acreage and I can mount them on the back of the attached garage.
 
fatawa

fatawa

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Ok you mean to vent the garage in this manner if I place the mini condensers inside the garage right?
no they need to b outside.i thought u meant venting for fresh air.old air out..u still need stagnant air pushd out.thats want i meant by stink pipe thing,(i use a chimney from a wood burner i removed)and fresh air in,(i use the drier vents to draw air n)just looks better.and flap closes wen u turn it off
 
fatawa

fatawa

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263
Mayb i was reading wrong what u guys was laying down.sorry if thats they case
 
DirtySanchez

DirtySanchez

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Get cold weather kits for your minis that turn off the fan when the temps go below normal operating range. Only way to work an a/c in NE winter if the compressors are outside.

2" r-max is great to frame with and great insulation. We've used inline fans w thermostats to keep the temps in the building (outside the room but inside the structure) in check. Helps prevent wild temp differences and condensation
 
ChickenDicks

ChickenDicks

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Well Im rethinking running the mini splits for now. I think in the beginning I will run my 12x48 scrubber and 12" 1700cfm fan with a pair of 12" HVAC dampers. when thermostat kicks on the dampers will go from circulation in the room to exhaust outside. In combination with running my Deva lights which auto-dim to maintain temps i think I should have enough capacity to cool the room. its starting to be in the low 50-60's now at night in S. Maine. I will no longer be running a sealed room right now, I will be running vented until I design a proper efficient cooling system. I want to play around with a DIY geothermal exchanger, or an air/air exchanger method in the near future. maybe running horizontal slinky loops 5-6 feet below grade on the side lot. use a few radiators/fans inside the grow room with antifreeze pumping through the slinky loops to exchange the heat from the room during lights on. Id like to come up with something because I dont think I will be able to run CO2 in the vent to atmos cooled room. It will probably be exchanging air too quickly for co2 to build up. Anyone have any input?
 
Planter01

Planter01

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I built two free standing rooms in the basement. A screw gun and a couple hours and i can take them down. I over built. Next time i would go 24 on center and use Irish wallpaper (paneling) for sheathing. I used this white FEP? Fiberglass embedded plastic on the walls and floors. Cheaper than a sheet of plywood and no paint or mylar involved. Cleans up easily as well.
I took a ride up to Grey, ME a few weeks ago to look at 20 acres and a killer barn. Well it had good bones anyway. Two big problems.... It was a three hour ride which is to much on a Friday AND banks don't like to make loans on raw land. Even with 50% down i couldn't make it work. I hope your near Portland. It's a cool little city. It feels like a mini Seattle. As far as heating and cooling goes once you get your lights burning you can work on that ellusive temp balance. They do make a little doodad that calls your phone if the temps go outside of your parameters. Did you price out LED or did you just go straight to MH/HPS? Have fun.
20171003 212151
 
ChickenDicks

ChickenDicks

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I haven't updated in a while. I'm about to chop my second cycle in this room. Temps and humidity are a real balancing act and depending on outside weather can fluctuate my lights on humidity substantially. My first run I yielded about 11lbs of pristine dried flower. Plus about a kilo of winterized full spectrum hash oil from all the larf and trim. I'm expecting at least 14-15 lbs dried this run at least. Each cycle I dial the room in better with adjustments and such. If I were to seal the room I wouldn't have these issues but to add another 50k btu of mini splits would probably almost double my current 1200 electric bill.

I've also added another 4kw tent in the basement and will soon begin construction on a 12kw+ attic build.


I built two free standing rooms in the basement. A screw gun and a couple hours and i can take them down. I over built. Next time i would go 24 on center and use Irish wallpaper (paneling) for sheathing. I used this white FEP? Fiberglass embedded plastic on the walls and floors. Cheaper than a sheet of plywood and no paint or mylar involved. Cleans up easily as well.
I took a ride up to Grey, ME a few weeks ago to look at 20 acres and a killer barn. Well it had good bones anyway. Two big problems.... It was a three hour ride which is to much on a Friday AND banks don't like to make loans on raw land. Even with 50% down i couldn't make it work. I hope your near Portland. It's a cool little city. It feels like a mini Seattle. As far as heating and cooling goes once you get your lights burning you can work on that ellusive temp balance. They do make a little doodad that calls your phone if the temps go outside of your parameters. Did you price out LED or did you just go straight to MH/HPS? Have fun. View attachment 746935
 
ChickenDicks

ChickenDicks

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8
Im ditching my Rev Micro DEVA lights. they do not hold up in a room with high humidity and possible water vapor condensing on the fixture. the PCB will short out or get hard water residue on it and cause them not to work. just a result of having a PCB fully exposed to the grow room environment. none of my gavita, gavita china knockoffs or phantom DE lights have an issue since they are all sealed. ive now gotta throw away half of my 400+ dollar lights and getting a new PCB from revmicro cost as much as just buying a new sealed fixture from a different maker and a wait time of over 6 weeks. Just warning others who may have high humidity rooms with possible condensation on the fixtures. Don't even think about using these in a light assisted greenhouse.

 
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