A Decision Needs To Be Made..

  • Thread starter crimsonecho
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Which one would you choose?

  • Option 1

  • Option 2

  • Option 3

  • Option 4


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crimsonecho

crimsonecho

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Thanks for all the inputs farm,
I am going with option 4 as it got the most votes and i wanted to try that anyway too :)
I did put together the veg bar once with arctic silver adhesive but it didn’t light up, so i dismantled it and drilled some holes. I screwed the holders down. Used arctic silver ceramique thermal paste. Not sure if i used enough, just a thin, flattened layer of it, well we will see when i hung them up. If any of them fails probably not enough tim :)
Now they are screwed down, its lighting up. They are wired in series, 3 cobs 2 series, 6 cobs total. Will post some pics. Now i am giving a dark period to my Nl’s. Now it has been about 24hrs. Then i will let my Dinachem go a bit more 4-5 days. After that i will change the whole setup of my grow tent to suit the new bars. Then the pics :D
The “Achille’s Heel” of my setup is the drivers tho. I am using meanwell lpc 100-700. 6 of them will be placed outside the tent and each will drive 6 cobs. Would love it if i could get my hands on a more efficient driver with higher voltage output. But i already had 4 of these from a prior project so i thought why not just order two more, they are cheap.
I also cracked one of the holders, no biggie tho, it looks like it works :)
Oh by the way, just tested with a watt meter and dirver is pulling 84 watts for each series. So total wattage will be 84X6 when in flowering. Lets say 500watts total.
 
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Jack og

Jack og

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Well we only use a blue spectrum for our grow , and given they are supplemental lights as. During light hours we have the full sunnacross the green houses. Yeilds have always been great.
We are putting in full spectrum cobs in glass house 1 to test out the watts vs pounds ratio. 1200 amps worth of lights going in Dec. but so far we veg in 6500k and 3500k, clones under 3500 are bushier whereas 6500 are taller.
Once they move into the flowering cycle, the bushier plants don’t yield better then the taller ones but their terpenoids development side by side is 30% better. Terpenoids being the flavor profile, no effect is seen in thc. They are all within the sampling error range.
Example sour d: 6500 clone = 22%-25
3500 clone= 20-24%
Now smell and size comparison, the 3500 clones are dank almost gasoline.
6500 , large heavy nug but the smell side buy side , the 3500 ones is what I’d pick
See the 2 vids I’ll post and look at plant size. Vs cola
 
View attachment D4D15A22-290D-45F4-9B16-A371B27D944F.MOV
crimsonecho

crimsonecho

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Well we only use a blue spectrum for our grow , and given they are supplemental lights as. During light hours we have the full sunnacross the green houses. Yeilds have always been great.
We are putting in full spectrum cons in glass house 1 to test out the watts vs pounds ratio. 1200 amps worth of lights going in Dec. but so far we veg in 6500k and 3500k, clones under 3500 are bushier whereas 6500 are taller.
Once they move into the flowering cycle, the bushier plants don’t yield better then the taller ones but their terpenoids development side by side is 30% better. Terpenoids being the flavor profile, no effect is seen in thc. They are all within the sampling error range.
Example sour d: 6500 clone = 22%-25
3500 clone= 20-24%
Now smell and size comparison, the 3500 clones are dank almost gasoline.
6500 , large heavy nug but the smell side buy side , the 3500 ones is what I’d pick
See the 2 vids I’ll post and look at plant size. Vs cola

Nice greenhouse, wish i was able to use the “ultimate growlight” too :)
So you are saying 3500K makes for bushier plants than 6000K in veg? And 3500K is overall have better terpenoid profile?
 
crimsonecho

crimsonecho

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my light dep weed is going to come out better. you type all you want. i got the newest clones and best plant food. i set the price on medical marijuana not you or logic selling seeds. your a pedo ring to me to not have a forum thread with internet members. same as logic your a pedo.
@heisenbubble @G gnome @jumpincactus @sixstring guys, little help here :D
 
Jack og

Jack og

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Nice greenhouse, wish i was able to use the “ultimate growlight” too :)
So you are saying 3500K makes for bushier plants than 6000K in veg? And 3500K is overall have better terpenoid profile?
From what we see, 3500 works for our environment, coastal with overcast days , natural humidity is slated in the 80s. Heat we never top 90. Salinas valley is our grow location so we found that 3500 works better for our clones
And yes the shorter bushier plants seem to taste better. I personally love those profiles that really come through. But the taller plants yield better and higher thc. I’m not one of those that chase the nuclear weed. Love me some low thc mellow dankier stuff! Lol
 
crimsonecho

crimsonecho

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From what we see, 3500 works for our environment, coastal with overcast days , natural humidity is slated in the 80s. Heat we never top 90. Salinas valley is over grow location so we found that 3500 works better for our clones
Nice i have high rh too but my temps are little lower now. Well 2x3000K 2x4000K and 2x6500K should be still pretty warm, well we’ll see i guess. If it doesn’t work i can change the cobs.
 
Jack og

Jack og

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Nice i have high rh too but my temps are little lower now. Well 2x3000K 2x4000K and 2x6500K should be still pretty warm, well we’ll see i guess. If it doesn’t work i can change the cobs.
That’s the beauty with some of the new cobs in the pipeline, you’ll will have the ability to adjust spectrum with an app!!
 
Jack og

Jack og

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Oh point to note , 6500 clones we veg 6weeks post 2 week clone transplant =8week vs 4 weeks on the 3500
3500 we turn and burn at 4 weeks
Transplant to flower from clone.
Shorter run time maybe the factor that the plant needs to give it all and they overdrives the terps, thc and cbn.
 
crimsonecho

crimsonecho

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Just want to let you guys know i went with option 4 and lights are up an running and they look pretty good.
When all 18 of them are lit, 50K lux to 75K lux over a 3x4 area, niceeee :)
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7C8AE124 877F 47AF 967B BBA7541D6C31
 
crimsonecho

crimsonecho

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Nice! What’s it drawing , watt wise at the outlet?
Ah havent really measured it yet, but i will.
Tho when i was trying them out, series of 3 was pulling 84-85w from the wall. There are 6 series of 3. So it should be around 505-510w.
Each bar should pull 170w.
 
Jack og

Jack og

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Ah havent really measured it yet, but i will.
Tho when i was trying them out, series of 3 was pulling 84-85w from the wall. There are 6 series of 3. So it should be around 505-510w.
Each bar should pull 170w.
Man that’s some nice output for the draw
 
Jimster

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I'm considering a trial with the newer full spectrum cobs that run 50-100 watts each. The heatsink is the current problem, but something easily remedied eventually. On chip power makes it easy to make, with no drivers needed. At $3.25 each, you can't beat 'em. Not an easy task for someone with no experience, but not terribly difficult, either.
 
crimsonecho

crimsonecho

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I'm considering a trial with the newer full spectrum cobs that run 50-100 watts each. The heatsink is the current problem, but something easily remedied eventually. On chip power makes it easy to make, with no drivers needed. At $3.25 each, you can't beat 'em. Not an easy task for someone with no experience, but not terribly difficult, either.

Well its hard to get a good datasheet of the pieces i can get my hands on. And with those driverless cobs you need to solder which is a pain in the ass.
But if you’re getting quality ones (don’t know if cree, osram, bridgelux or citizen makes these) and find a datasheet that presents a relative spectral distribution chart, then its ok.
Can’t say anything about the efficiency of those leds tho. Higher end drivers push mid 90s in efficiency usually.
 
Jimster

Jimster

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Well its hard to get a good datasheet of the pieces i can get my hands on. And with those driverless cobs you need to solder which is a pain in the ass.
But if you’re getting quality ones (don’t know if cree, osram, bridgelux or citizen makes these) and find a datasheet that presents a relative spectral distribution chart, then its ok.
Can’t say anything about the efficiency of those leds tho. Higher end drivers push mid 90s in efficiency usually.
Soldering isn't a problem, and there are a lot of new multi frequency as well as discreet frequency cobs coming out daily, it seems. They all run pretty hot, but if you can deal with that, a cheap and powerful LED light is not far off. The latest one I'm checking out costs roughly 8 cents per watt, or about $8-9 for 100 watts. Discreet colors are sometimes higher but are available in very specific frequencies...roughly 9 different purple to UV-C choices and a dozen or so going towards the far IR. I love my HIDs but I'm going to supplement some dark spots.
 
crimsonecho

crimsonecho

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Soldering isn't a problem, and there are a lot of new multi frequency as well as discreet frequency cobs coming out daily, it seems. They all run pretty hot, but if you can deal with that, a cheap and powerful LED light is not far off. The latest one I'm checking out costs roughly 8 cents per watt, or about $8-9 for 100 watts. Discreet colors are sometimes higher but are available in very specific frequencies...roughly 9 different purple to UV-C choices and a dozen or so going towards the far IR. I love my HIDs but I'm going to supplement some dark spots.
Well led technology develops every day. If its putting out too much heat its not good tho. I’m running these on a 1,25cm heatsink. It is less than half inches. They are running pretty cool.
Don’t see much point in providing uv and ir. Uvc is completely filtered out by atmosphere in natural conditions and detrimental to all kinds of life. Uvb and uva supposedly increases the trichome production but it also damages everything in your grow area so uvless tent is better imo.
Far red and ir are not inherently bad but it produces too much heat and its not efficient to produce in a tent as they don’t correspond to any photosynthetic activity. Part of going with leds is to leave these unnecessary nms out to produce an even more efficient light. Its my opinion.
 
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