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Adding Additional Micronutrients To Jacks 321

Discussion in 'Nutrients and Fertilizers' started by wine0, Jun 5, 2018.

  1. wine0

    wine0

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    Aloha from Maui
    First time growing, decided to go with Jacks 321 (part 1,2 + Epson) for the low cost.
    I have added Silica,
    Monopotassium Phosphate, Calmag, Great white and Fulic. Are these micronutrients overkill?
    My set up is (DIY) 2 hydroponic tubs (4 plants each), airstone and drip system with 2 panels of 3 HLG QB288 @600W each inside a 4x4 tent.
    I have made lots of mistakes already; Moved seedlings from Dome to tent too soon, Put lights to close, started drip too soon and now I am worried if adding these micronutrients are an overkill. By the looks I think all or some of the girls will be stunted, hope none turn to males?

    I have not done full strength on any of nukes. The first week was 1/4 and now just started my second week at 1/2 strength.

    Please advise me on anything that would help me. Thank you in advance

    Mahalo

    PS trying to upload pics but I keep getting this error message "The following error occurred Security error occurred. Please press back, refresh the page, and try again". Can someone tell me how to fix so I can upload!?
     
  2. DGP

    DGP

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    Your in Hawaii where I assume it is warm. Are you keeping the water in your hydro system cool enough? I live in the Pacific NW where it is fairly cool and I still have to chill my water to avoid root issues.

    Hydro water should be kept at about 68F and no higher than 70.

    I use Jack's in recirculating hydro and I don't think you need to ad all that. Jacks is a complete formula, even has sulphur in it. I add beneficial bacteria and mycos (one formula) that are supposed to be compatible with hydro. I don't believe in throwing lots of stuff at the plants just more chance for issues and then when you try to solve the problem then which of the 5 things you added are the problem?

    Dee
     
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  3. wine0

    wine0

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    Had to resize the pic's to upload
     
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  4. wine0

    wine0

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    Good point DGP... As far as the water, it's between 70 and 73F, if you look at the tent picture I have the intake tube blowing right in between the tanks which so far has cooled the tank and the airstone tubes (intake is sucking air straight from a window air conditioner). I cant afford two water chillers right now so this is the best I can do to keep water temps down.
    What about the fulic, great white and Calmag don't I need some extra???
     
  5. DGP

    DGP

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    If your water is very pure and lacks the common mag and calcium salts then you may need extra calmag. Great White is probably fine as a live beneficial just watch for root problems. The benies may help to keep out bad bacteria but above 70F is risky. Some people who have marginal water temps have reported that benies like hydroguard have worked as well to protect from bad bacteria issues but I have not had the same luck.

    For a while I got by without a chiller by putting frozen water bottles in the reservoir when temps jumped above about 69.

    Dee
     
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  6. wine0

    wine0

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    On the 16th is my next water change, will only add jacks and great white by your recommendation (tks), I am not using RO and I don't know the composition of my tap water so I bought a Garden Hose Filter (Removes Chlorine, Chloramines, VOCs, & Pesticides/Herbicides). I also bought a Submersible UV light Sterilizer lamp for Cleaning Green Algae and Bacteria in the water (haven't used it yet). Water today got up to 75, don't know why.. I have lowered the aircond temp to see if that will help.
    Thanks again Dee
     
  7. DGP

    DGP

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    Do you have an EC/ppm pen? You really need to check your water source for the level of dissolved solids. If you have well water it would be good to send some to Jack's (Peters Co.) and have it analyzed or if you have public water check with the provider to see if they know what the levels run. An EC/ppm meter doesn't tell you exactly what is in the water but Calcium and mag are very common. You need to check ph as well. Get yourself a Hanna or HM EC meter and ph meter. If you don't already have meters they are absolutely essential tools.

    Dee
     
    wine0 likes this.
  8. wine0

    wine0

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    I have a blue lab EC and PH meter. Does Jacks charge for the analysis? Thank you for all the great advise Dee I am grateful
     
  9. epsome salt is your calcium and mag,i think your throwing way to much at them,jacks alone is great stuff and i wouldnt boost them until 2 weeks in flower after the stretch,jacks does have another product that is citrus folks been saying does real good,stick to the basics friend,reason you went jacks to save money ,all that other stuff is just sales gimmick and headaches
     
    wine0 likes this.
  10. wine0

    wine0

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    Thank you for the advice Oldskol
     
    oldskol4evr likes this.
  11. yeah it looks like you are burning your plants with too high PPM. or ph is swinging, with jacks just keep it simple. I'm running seedlings 4 days old at 300PPM.. dont add anything but jacks, cal-nit, and epsom. the blend has enough micronutrients in it already. I actually just add a root enhancer that is 1-1-1 but only 1 ml a gallon so it doesnt change the makeup of npk but makes it a little stronger
     
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  12. 350ppm should be 25% my starting water is 30 ppm.
     
    wine0 likes this.
  13. wine0

    wine0

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    My starting PPM is 170 and right now it's 770. But I read this article which says the following

    Common PPM Readings
    These readings reflect the PPM your water should have at a given stage of growth
    • Seedlings: 100-250 (nutrients aren’t really needed here, hence there’s not a lot of particles needed)
    • First Half of Vegging Cycle: 300-400 (this is usually after you transplant, which still don’t require many nutrients)
    • Second Half of Vegging: 450-700 (you’ll start giving your plants more nutrients at this stage)
    • First Half of Flowering: 750-950 (your plants will be eating more as they grow, so they’ll be taking in more nutrients)
    • Second Half of Flowering: 1000-1600 (this is when your plant’s eating the most, especially if you give it additives)
    • End of Flower, Entering Harvest: As close to 0 as possible (this is when you’ll be flushing your plants, so you don’t want there to be a lot of particles left over)

    So this is wrong!?!?!??
     
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  14. nope that is the hanna scale,keep close to that and you will level out,mix all your feeds then ph the water,usally you need to go down .
    also keep in mind that using airstone to burn off your clorine also add oxygen which raise the ph of your water,so make your mix ,let it sit 30 min ,then check ph and adjust accordinly,hope that helps
     
    wine0 likes this.
  15. wine0

    wine0

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    Thank you for that, am using a paint drill mixer rod to mix my nukes, should I still let it sit for 30mins?
     
    oldskol4evr likes this.
  16. wine0

    wine0

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    How should I fix it, add ph'ed plain water or complete drain and restart???
     
    oldskol4evr likes this.
  17. depends on when you mixed it, since its cheap just mix a fresh one, or dilute if you just mixed not too long ago.
     
    wine0 likes this.
  18. if your having problems with swing ,i would,i just got into the practice of it,for 50 miles around me is hard water,i catch rain water when we get it,i also have the ac drip line running into a barrel,the condensation is ro water in my opinion,but if your sure the ph isnt swinging ,getrdone,lol
     
    wine0 likes this.
  19. do you have a trash can were you can keep water for storage as you use it?a ro system is pretty easy to do,running a res i would have that on stand by at all time,check temps and ph a couple times a day,but those numbers you list is the hanna scale and run pretty close to what it needs to be,if your res is still swinging quite a bit,i would do a change of res and clean r up good
     
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  20. wine0

    wine0

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    Im in Maui the water is good, I use a hose filter which takes out the chlorine, PH is 6.7 and PPM 170.

    I just did a water change two days back, PPM was at 850. Found the Hanna article, decided to added PH water to bring PPM down to 700. I will remove some and re-add PH water. You guys are awesome tks for all the help!
     
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