Adub Sancho Og 6000 Way Hps Sealed Room

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Inbudwetrust

Inbudwetrust

55
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What up everyone ,

Inbudwetrust here , A little about me , been growing for over 10 years . Started like a lot of you guys in a closet and now run three rooms . I am going to document my small personal room on here .
I grow for my personal medicine one of the few . Have had numerous spinal surgeries . This medicine works hands down . Big Pharma would rather have me on Vicodin soma OXy contin gabapentin , ambien , tramadol a bunch of other nerve blocking pills but fuck that . I want to be an advocate for this amazing plant . I wouldn’t be here without it . I love this plant and am so excited the masses are learning to embrace her and all her healing properties .

I am starting you guys in week 5 of flowering . Last week I did my second defolination . I am going to keep a text log as well as a video log on ytube. That one is already in progress . Here are a few before and after defolination shots . I’m ready to argue and prove my point don’t worry .
Adub sancho og 6000 way hps sealed room 3
Adub sancho og 6000 way hps sealed room 4
Adub sancho og 6000 way hps sealed room
Adub sancho og 6000 way hps sealed room 2

Stats
6- 1000 HPS
Mini split
Dehumidifier
C02
5 gallon coco mix
Run House and Garden plus a few additives
Compost tea weekly
Nute nute water regiment
Weekly foliar love with my brew



So follow me as I show you how I personally grow . Feel free to ask .
 
Inbudwetrust

Inbudwetrust

55
18
My room is 14x16 . One issue I deal with that you people may be able to help me on. I have the batwings as you can see in the pics . Not sure about rules but just posted this video on my ytube channel . My problem is I feel that I have hot spots seems like directly under the light I am not getting the same amount of light as I am on the sides . I will take some pics to show you what I mean
 
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Burned Haze

Guest
Since your asking for the suggestion : I would get a par meter or if you can’t afford that get a candle meter meter and it will de show you where your light is and overlapping (+ make sure always wear suntan lotion , and wear some method seven glasses , UVA/UVB you cannot see and it will give you can but it sure makes your plants go wild )

( the temp/humidity hygrometer: step 2 ?
Then if it’s not PAR’s messing with your plants ( if meters showing average amounts and stable and even, but I always recommend having l to know where how powerful your conopy and not waste your lights , it’s heat overlapping , all you gotta do is have multiple humidity/temp with a probe and put it (1-2) on borders and (1-2) in middle separated do you can see if the temps are def being effected. Put all the probes on Best presented leaf that would be canopy level that would be your overall top trellis level. Yes you’ll need 4-6 of those Hygrometers but there only under 10 bucks a piece and you can know your whole rooms environment temp and humidity afterwards or multiple easily. ( I even Velcro mine to the wall )

Anyways good luck on your grow and subbed on it . Looking clean and plants happy ( keep it up )
 
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Dunge

Dunge

2,233
263
You are in a great position to convince me that such dramatic defoliation is a good idea.
I would think on leave a few lower fans on her just to catch some light before it hits the floor.
Looking forward to watching your grow.
Nice.
 
Inbudwetrust

Inbudwetrust

55
18
Since your asking for the suggestion : I would get a par meter or if you can’t afford that get a candle meter meter and it will de show you where your light is and overlapping (+ make sure always wear suntan lotion , and wear some method seven glasses , UVA/UVB you cannot see and it will give you can but it sure makes your plants go wild )

( the temp/humidity hygrometer: step 2 ?
Then if it’s not PAR’s messing with your plants ( if meters showing average amounts and stable and even, but I always recommend having l to know where how powerful your conopy and not waste your lights , it’s heat overlapping , all you gotta do is have multiple humidity/temp with a probe and put it (1-2) on borders and (1-2) in middle separated do you can see if the temps are def being effected. Put all the probes on Best presented leaf that would be canopy level that would be your overall top trellis level. Yes you’ll need 4-6 of those Hygrometers but there only under 10 bucks a piece and you can know your whole rooms environment temp and humidity afterwards or multiple easily. ( I even Velcro mine to the wall )

Anyways good luck on your grow and subbed on it . Looking clean and plants happy ( keep it up )


Thank You D , I will order those tonight
 
B

Burned Haze

Guest
Stupid auto correct ! (Corrected version of what I meant above ^ ) lol stoner mistakes where I’m sure there more but fuck it

UVA/UVB is you something cannot see and it will give cancer but it sure makes your plants go wild and true their true nature of the earth )
 
B

Burned Haze

Guest
Also having them on light rails isa Good tip ( makes light move and you can Even have additonal too get a kit )

This makes it so your bulb can be closer to the plants with no negative effects who is results more pars and lights and more even light for your canopy .

You will be surprised how much a moving light that goes the full 4x8 compared to not ( check with a meter and it makes sense )


What I try to do is get the canopy heat at (75-78f non c02 rooms) and (82-84f c02 )and get the light as close it as you physically can without going over that . ( use those hygrometers and they will tell the max temp and humidity )
 
Inbudwetrust

Inbudwetrust

55
18
Yes!!! You guys are legend , goi g to incorporate those movers in my next round . Ordered the par meters . Thanks gents , really appreciate the help .
 
Inbudwetrust

Inbudwetrust

55
18
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Update on the girls . Couple questions for you all . I feel everything is a 10 out of 10 at this point . I feel they are growing g at their optimum especially once I get light distribution fixed .
Question 1. I have seen recently in on Grand Master Levels YouTube channel that he likes to let his coco dry out between watering . I was always under the assumption that you can’t overwater coco and that you should not let it dry out for a number of reasons especially salt bro g number 1 . Do you people it dry out between waterings ?

2. Is your feed schedule nute then straight water then nute then straight water? I only do two straight water per week . On week 5 I do not do any straight water mainly because I use house and garden and we use Top Booster starting week 5 then top shooter week 6 . Week six I only straight water once . Is this hampering me ? I have never had a problem.

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59CEC612 4E77 4D75 8CE5 9B1CF0B89F13
C52E96D5 1D1E 4570 A57C 98BB5FFDFF6C
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B

Burned Haze

Guest
1?:if you water your plants like soil than they will act like that , coco is a semi hydro .( most coco growers water 4-7 times in a day with a .5 gal - 1gl pot to cause this mediem loves to be reairied )
If coco or coco/perlite dominate mediem you must first let the mediem let become dry in the beginning , in between watering (350-400ppm start feed) ( so the roots become established ) then once in final pot (feed 500-600ppm)( use only 2-3 gal so they become established quickly, amazing this is a 3 gallon can become as big as 7-10 in coco ) once end of veg and flower ( everything is always 750-800ppm) after I see root evidence and showing the plant is happy , I make sure to always never let the roots dry out and always keep them reairated ( most coco growers water 4-7 times in a day with a .5 gal 1gl pot to cause this mediem loves to be reairied )

2. Coco growers should always be only doing nutes ran cycling intill harvest inless they have a issue and always do a 10-15% runoff so no salt build up. The key is between soil and coco and soil it wants a super wants a super easy feeding schedule .youngsters and first 1-3 weeks , week 3-8 350-400ppm , 400-600ppm and ending veg to ending of flower 600-900 Ppm( but you alway feed , only flush on end if non organic )
 
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Enforcer

Enforcer

2,008
263
I’m in 70/30 coco/perlite, 3 gal pots. Currently in week 5 of flower and I feed 800 ppm twice daily. Pump on timer and runs for 3 minutes. That gives me about 20% run off. I NEVER let the coco dry out. I also flush weekly with SLF-100 and beneficial microbes. Your plants look great. I bet you could just keep on like you have and be fine. But as stated above, coco should be treated like hydro to get the most benefit. I suspect that if you dialed in daily feedings, you would get faster growth. I have just the smallest touch of nute burn on some of my leaf tips, so I know I’m right there with how much I can feed them. I’m using AN Sensi ph perfect line.
 
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P

PharmHand

846
143
I’m in 70/30 coco/perlite, 3 gal pots. Currently in week 5 of flower and I feed 800 ppm twice daily. Pump on timer and runs for 3 minutes. That gives me about 20% run off. I NEVER let the coco dry out. I also flush weekly with SLF-100 and beneficial microbes. Your plants look great. I bet you could just keep on like you have and be fine. But as stated above, coco should be treated like hydro to get the most benefit. I suspect that if you dialed in daily feedings, you would get faster growth. I have just the smallest touch of nute burn on some of my leaf tips, so I know I’m right there with how much I can feed them. I’m using AN Sensi ph perfect line.
I'd pull a few of those fan leaves it's looking pretty dense in there. Your overall quality will go up and you'll reduce chance of rot/pm. Looks healthy tho, nice work
 
Inbudwetrust

Inbudwetrust

55
18
I’m in 70/30 coco/perlite, 3 gal pots. Currently in week 5 of flower and I feed 800 ppm twice daily. Pump on timer and runs for 3 minutes. That gives me about 20% run off. I NEVER let the coco dry out. I also flush weekly with SLF-100 and beneficial microbes. Your plants look great. I bet you could just keep on like you have and be fine. But as stated above, coco should be treated like hydro to get the most benefit. I suspect that if you dialed in daily feedings, you would get faster growth. I have just the smallest touch of nute burn on some of my leaf tips, so I know I’m right there with how much I can feed them. I’m using AN Sensi ph perfect line.

thanks I always thought letting it dry out was a bad idea . Not only the salt build up but it’s hard to get them fully wet once they completely dry out , the water just goes down the sides of the pot . I have a pump it just is difficult to keep bits cool and mixed very well . When you let nutes sit in a reservoir for more than a few hours they separate a bit which is bad plus they get warm which is also bad . Lastly if you don’t alternate water and nutes the emitters clog up . A big mess I don’t want to deal with unless I plumb it right the first time .
 
Enforcer

Enforcer

2,008
263
thanks I always thought letting it dry out was a bad idea . Not only the salt build up but it’s hard to get them fully wet once they completely dry out , the water just goes down the sides of the pot . I have a pump it just is difficult to keep bits cool and mixed very well . When you let nutes sit in a reservoir for more than a few hours they separate a bit which is bad plus they get warm which is also bad . Lastly if you don’t alternate water and nutes the emitters clog up . A big mess I don’t want to deal with unless I plumb it right the first time .
Yup, all true. Here's what I did to address those issues. Inside my res I have an air stone, air injected small circulation pump (to keep the water moving), aquarium heater to keep it at 69* (I'm in the garage so it's about 50* in there lately), and the main pump. Five days later my solution looks the same as the day I mixed it. Before adding the small pump I would have brown fluff sitting on the bottom after a few days. I just mix, check EC and ph, and forget about it until it's empty again. I don't use emitters. I have a loop made out of spaghetti tubing, with 4 T's spaced out evenly where the solution is pumped out. They are too big to clog, and I don't use organic nutes. If I do, for whatever reason, I direct feed them with a pump sprayer. I have the T's angled out towards the side of the pot so the solution is directed to the outer 1/3 of the medium. I pump to a manifold, then to the plants. I'm using a 633 gph main pump. The run off drains to a sump in the platform I built that he tent sits on, and is pumped to a catch res, which gets dumped during res changes. Everything is on a timer. I don't have to do shit. Works perfectly.

Here is a link to my grow. I have some posts about the watering system in there you may find interesting.

https://www.thcfarmer.com/community/threads/white-widow-400w-grow.92060/
 
Enforcer

Enforcer

2,008
263
I'd pull a few of those fan leaves it's looking pretty dense in there. Your overall quality will go up and you'll reduce chance of rot/pm. Looks healthy tho, nice work
Thanks man. I have pulled fan leaves that shaded buds and lower ones that were looking sickly. However, I’m not doing any major defoliating this run. The do or do not defoliate debate has intrigued me. I’m going to do minimal on this run and more aggressive defoliation next run. Then compare dry weights and see for myself which is better.
 
Enforcer

Enforcer

2,008
263
thanks I always thought letting it dry out was a bad idea . Not only the salt build up but it’s hard to get them fully wet once they completely dry out , the water just goes down the sides of the pot . I have a pump it just is difficult to keep bits cool and mixed very well . When you let nutes sit in a reservoir for more than a few hours they separate a bit which is bad plus they get warm which is also bad . Lastly if you don’t alternate water and nutes the emitters clog up . A big mess I don’t want to deal with unless I plumb it right the first time .
Oh, and I forgot to mention that I also have a 2 or 4 micron (can’t remember which) in-line filter at the manifold. I just clean it out every so often.
 

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