Agricultural Sea Minerals

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leadsled

leadsled

GrowRU
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Agricultural Sea Minerals. I see alot of studies and research on them. Obviously other things from the sea are loved by plants.

Anyone using Sea minerals?

few products I found.
groPAL dot com
seaagri dot com

I found this interesting article on the subject and how to make your own..
http://www.naturalnews.com/023600_minerals_water_sea.html

Sea Minerals as Building Blocks

Minerals are the building blocks of life. The sea is the 'primal soup' from which all life on earth originates. There is no place on earth with a higher concentration of minerals than the sea. Sea water covers 70% of the planet's surface. Animal and plant life thrive in an unpolluted sea environment, so much so that a double life span is easily reached compared to life on land, and in perfect health. This is because disease is the result of mineral shortages and acidification and this does not naturally occur in a sea environment. If it does occur, man is to blame, not nature.

Sea minerals as a plasma

All cellular life comes from the sea. Blood has been shown to be 98% identical to sea water. The only difference is that sea water needs an extra molecule of magnesium, whereas blood needs an extra molecule of iron (hence the red color of blood). When a sea water dilution comes in contact with blood, however, the magnesium is converted into iron, making the transition 100%. Thus sea water should be seen as a plasma.

Chlorophyll as a plasma

Photosynthesis is the interaction of sunlight and water. This forms the basis of all plant life. This too began in the sea. Chlorophyll is the product of photosynthesis and led to green, one-celled organisms. These washed onto land and led to plant life. People and animals not only share a genetic link with the sea but also with green plants, as chlorophyll is 98% identical to blood. Chlorophyll, too, has a magnesium core while iron forms the basis for blood. The conversion of magnesium in chlorophyll to iron is once again complete once this comes into contact with blood. Like sea water, chlorophyll is therefore a plasma and is sometimes referred to as the 'blood of the plant'.

Sea minerals and chlorophyll as healers

Disease is caused by a shortage of minerals, which causes acidification. With the exception of a few, all minerals are alkalizing. In order to combat disease and acidification, alkalization and mineralization is key. Since sea water and green plants both have the very alkaline magnesium as a base, these are vital in fighting disease. Magnesium is the mineral of life.

Sea minerals and chlorophyll have the capacity to regenerate all cellular life. Sea minerals enrich the soil and plants with all necessary minerals and trace elements, the building blocks of life, in exactly the right proportions and composition. They provide the information and energy that cells need to regenerate by alkalizing and mineralizing the environment of the cells. This approach is therefore pro-life, not anti-disease. Sea minerals and chlorophyll help the organism maintain and regain its health. Ocean-grown plants can have the same effect on humans and animals who eat these plants.

Sea minerals as fertilizer

When sea minerals serve as plant food, the plants and soil take up more minerals and trace elements than they would get from any other type of fertilizer, including organic fertilizer. All of the earth's elements, both known and unknown, can be found in sea water. Scientists have so far been able to identify 92 elements in sea water and 84 in unrefined sea salt.

Thus it makes perfect sense to use diluted sea minerals on the 30% land mass on which we live. Contrary to a healthy sea environment, there is more disease, aging, shortening of life spans and cell degeneration on land. By working with dilutions which are so extreme you can hardly taste the salt, there will be no salinization of the plants and soil, so the minerals can be used to their full advantage to help crops develop, grow and build up resistance.

Disease is acidification. Sea minerals alkalize and mineralize the soil, which makes for a healthy soil and soil life. Insects, fungi and other pathogens only clean up weaker crops and will not touch ocean-grown crops or the crops will show remarkable resistance to these micro-organisms. Weeds often thrive on slightly acidic soils and they will also stay away. Insecticides, fungicides and herbicides are then no longer needed. These chemicals have a highly acidic effect and will only deprive the soil and soil life of vital nutrients because they don't work with nature but against it. The same is true for artificial fertilizer and non-composted organic fertilizer. Sea minerals are a natural alternative which allows you to work with the building blocks of life and in perfect harmony with nature.

Sea minerals and grass

No other crop is more receptive to sea minerals than grass. Grass grows in all places and at all times, it grows on everything and nothing. It is the predominant species of green plant on the 30% land mass we live on and it is a true survivor. Give grass the pure life force of sea minerals and it will take up every single mineral. Other plants make their own selection from the 'menu' served up by sea minerals, but grass loves them all. It is often thought that many plants, most notably grass, cannot grow without nitrogen. Though nitrogen promotes rapid growth, an excess of nitrogen does not feed the plants nor does it promote real health.

Good food means good health, it is the fuel that keeps the engine running smoothly. Sea minerals act as nutrients because of their alkalizing and mineralizing nature, keeping disease and acidification at bay. The plant's natural immune system is boosted in this way. Plants need minerals. They will get their nitrogen in other ways, just like they do their carbon and sulphur, as these naturally occur in the atmosphere (air, rainwater). These are life-giving substances and so are sea minerals.

Sea minerals not only promote fast growth, but above all healthy growth. In no other crop is this more visible than grass. Even if the difference between ocean-grown grass and grass fertilized in other ways is not immediately visible, any grazing animal will immediately select ocean-grown grass when given the choice, because the animal instinctively knows ocean-grown grass has more nutritional value. Ocean-grown grass contains a balanced complex of minerals and trace elements as well as large amounts of chlorophyll. This is good for the grass and the grazer. The milk and meat of these animals is good for us humans. Thus a cycle is established which literally starts at the root.

How to ocean farm

First, I make a Sole. Here is how I do it:

Take a glass container (a bottle or a jar) with a lid on it so you can screw the container tight and shake the contents without spilling. Cover the bottom with Celtic sea salt (the grey, unrefined kind) or Himalaya salt. Fill the container with good-quality water, either spring water, mineral water or filtered tap water. Shake the contents until the salt has completely dissolved. If you have coarse salt, this could take up to 24 hours and you may have to shake several times. Once the salt has dissolved repeat the process, adding more and more salt until the water is completely saturated and there are salt crystals at the bottom which will no longer dissolve. You now have concentrated sea salt water or Himalaya water, otherwise known as Sole, referring to water and sunlight, 'liquid sunlight'.

The next thing you need to get is a TDS meter. These are available on the web. This gives you the ability to measure exactly the salt content of the solution you are working with in parts per million (ppm). To ocean-grow most plants you can use a solution of 2000 ppm. This comes to about 4 teaspoons of Sole per quart of water. Be sure to measure the TDS (total dissolved solids) content. You can use one type of Sole to get up to 2000 ppm, in which case I recommend Celtic Sea Salt. If you want to combine it with a good rock salt, I recommend Himalaya Salt.

I start out with soaking the seeds for 24 hours in a 2000 ppm solution as well as treating the soil with the same solution. This way both the seeds and the soil get a head start. When I plant the seeds I cover them with a thin top layer of soil, which I also spray with a 2000 ppm solution. This will give the seeds and soil a nice damp start, but not too damp.

The second thing you need to figure out is how often to apply a solution. My golden rule is to not overdo it. I reapply the solution by spraying when the soil is nearly dry, thus giving the seeds and soil minimal nutrition. This strengthens them because they have to make the most of what I give them, plus I create conditions which are not too moist, which feeds fungi. You can harvest at any stage in growth, but of course the plant will be at its most energetic and nutritious when it is young.

If you want to experiment with the salt tolerance of certain crops, go by your intuition and listen to what the plants are telling you. For example, if they develop yellow or brown leaves, back down on the salt and give them water only to water down the solution you have applied. This will not kill or harm the plant permanently and you will be able to figure out the right dose.

I prefer to grow outdoors in indirect sunlight, even in winter time (growth will be slower then). You can also choose to grow without soil (hydroponics), indoors or outdoors. I have discovered I am a soil guy. In soil, fewer applications of ocean solution are necessary because the soil fixes the minerals and, because they are salts, the soil and plants will use water more economically.

When growing outdoors make sure you reapply an ocean solution after heavy rainfall, as rainfall causes the minerals to wash back out to sea. Do this on a dry day. A few drops of rain will not be so bad, in fact they will help to push the minerals deeper into the soil and closer to the roots. Once again, use your intuition.

What is really essential is the quality of the water in which you make the solution. Use living water, do not go for distilled or reverse-osmosis water as this is dead water. Use either filtered tap water or spring or mineral water, preferably at its natural temperature of 39 degrees Fahrenheit (4 degrees Celsius). Don't go over 48 Fahrenheit (9 degrees Celsius) as the water will lose its strength and vitality. This is according to the teachings of Viktor Schauberger.

Make sure you also farm with the right intention, one of love (do not farm if you are in a foul mood!). Check on the plants and soil every day, even if they do not yet need solution. Your loving attention alone will make the plants want to grow for you.

The great thing about all this is you are farming in harmony with nature because you are listening to what she has to tell you. There is no better and more energetic or spiritual therapy than that, in my view. By getting closer in contact with nature you are getting closer to your own nature.

Happy farming!


Anyone else researched this or interested, or new to you? Thanks for your time.

 
dextr0

dextr0

1,650
163
The thalassa mix looks bad ass.

Quote:
Pure sea water
Original Himalayan Crystal Salt™
Humus
Silica
Yarrow
Chamomile
Stinging Nettle
White Oak Bark
Dandelion
Valerian
Equisetum arvense (Meadow Horsetail)
Clay


Thanx for reminding me of this Lead. I see u been searchin lately, Lotta good finds.
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

Living dead girl
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What about using salt mix, for aquariums? Seems like you'd have to dilute it quite a lot, but it's used to grow aquatic organisms, including hermatypics (reef-building) and other skeleton-building critters.
 
justiceman

justiceman

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This is an extremely interesting topic. I once did a foliar spray on a droopy clone with a sole solution I made from pure Himalayan salt crystals and she perked back up immediately. I haven't messed around with it in my nutrient solutions yet but I've been considering adding to supplement trace minerals.

Apparently it's not just about the trace minerals in themselves but the actual frequency they give off because of there geometric form that is important.

That sea solid hydro thread is interesting. Damn that guy uses about 1900ppm worth of Himalayan crystal salt/sea salt with 500ppm of pbp. It's interesting that it doesn't' burn his plants. I've heard that some plants can take in an excess of 4000ppm sea solids. Dr Murray is the one who coined the idea. I'm about to order his book called Sea Energy Agriculture in order to gain more insight.

I've also read that one can revitalize "dead" r/o or deionized water by letting a quartz crystal sit in the water for 24 hours. It supposedly rearranges the crystaloid structure of the water molecules.
 
L

LBZ Farmer

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0
I have some stuff called MUD from my Marine aquarium. Wonder if that has what I need. It is supposed to be for a refugium supposed to have tons of minerals in it.
 
O

ookiimata

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18
I think I read that you shouldn't use aquarium salts. I can't remember exactly why. But everything I read says you have to use deep water salts from Australia (Sea-90 or some name like that) or Brittany (Celtic Sea Salts) or mined ancient Himalayan salts.

From what I've read, and I haven't finished reading all the info on it, the only advantage is that you can use less nutes (organic or synth) on your plants. I'd like to try crushing some up and using a low dose as a soil amendment in the future, but I'm not in any hurry. Glacial Dust and Kelp probably end up giving a very similar additive mix.

But for places that can't get nutes to grow their food and have depleted the soil, I think it's an alternative worth looking into.
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

Living dead girl
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I'm still incredulous. There is no difference between salts found at depth and salts found at the sea surface, only in specific gravity levels, which can be dependent on location in relation to thermoclines, sub-Arctic/Antarctic areas (think of glacial melt and how that 'stirs' the deep oceanic currents) and other areas where sea water might be mixed with fresh. You *do* see differences between seas, for instance, it is known that the Red Sea is saltier than other oceans, and so you see some interesting bio-diversity that is attributed to that (it's also a physical bottleneck). But as for what salts are comprising those oceans, you can keep Red Sea specimens in the same salt mix or natural filtered sea water as you do, say, Indian Ocean or Pacific specimens.
I have some stuff called MUD from my Marine aquarium. Wonder if that has what I need. It is supposed to be for a refugium supposed to have tons of minerals in it.
Heh, I know the people who make that stuff. From Walt Smith, yeah? Or is it being made by another outfit?

Personally, I wouldn't use it because of what I know and have written on refugia. If you're familiar with the book The Natural Marine Aquarium--Reef Invertebrates, that's a publication I was involved with as an editor and it's pretty much focused on how to use refugia. Otherwise, it wouldn't be a natural marine aquarium.
 
leadsled

leadsled

GrowRU
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Like to hear more about agricultural sea minerals. thanks for sharing, but I am growing plants not reefs or fish. Respect! -Lead
 
O

ookiimata

131
18
The ICMag thread already posted has tons of info. There's another thread on that site in the Organic Hydro section that plays around with sea salts in coco as well.

I read them both, and it basically boils down to, "Using diluted sea salt water in your hydro grow probably won't kill your plants." Of course, they only demonstrate that using a few specific sources of sea salts to make their saltwater solutions. NZ, Celtic, Himalayan. And all the guys using it still need to use additional nutrients. Then there are just pages and pages of unsubstantiated claims from growers that believe their products taste better, are healthier, and are more potent. None of them have run any kind of lab analysis to support potency claims. Taste is already so subjective as to be worthless. One guy claimed that his seawater plants resisted white flies better than his non-seawater plants. Take that as you will. That same guy had never grown indoor before, let alone hydro, before starting with the seawater. Someone posted a Japanese study that found a tremendously diluted seawater solution produced "higher quality" tomatoes than the control group at the cost of smaller yields. Bumping up the sea solid concentration in those Japanese tests had a hugely negative affect on yield. Someone else showed multiple lab analysis of seawater typically only having 30-40 minerals rather than the 80-90 claimed by the companies selling it for agricultural uses.

So, considering that a properly amended soil will grow plants with no need for additional nutrients or additives during the grow, I don't see seawater lowering the need for the concentration of additives needed being any kind of miracle method. I find it extremely interesting and surprising and somewhat impressive, though. Perhaps the seawater can be viewed as the hydro version of amended soil for those desiring to grow organically in hydroponics.

I went into my reading completely neutral and unmotivated. Those are the conclusions I drew. Anyone remotely interested should read those threads themselves. It's very cool and I love that people are trying things like that.
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

Living dead girl
23,596
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I guess I should dig around and find my login information for the mag, eh? I always feel so lost when I go there, though.

I appreciate you taking the time to share your thoughts, and based on what you've shared, I believe I would end up landing where you have had I done similar research on the subject.

I'm going into a slight musing mode here, and this was the first thought that popped into my head when I read this thread at first--kelp meal, extract, seaweed; they all are claimed to be sources of "sea minerals". They work, well, too. Are we trying to build a better mousetrap, or just a different one here?
 
justiceman

justiceman

2,718
263
SEA-90 Experiment

Hey guys I just got some SEA-90 and I'm going to try using it on my exiled caseyjones plant. I'll admit I have my doubts as many do, but I was just itching to see whats up. I figure it's worth a shot for the hell of it.

Alternatively about a week ago I gave it 350ppm(5ml sole per gallon) worth of Himalayan sole as a soil drench and the casey seems to be doing pretty decent except for some tip burn on a few leaves. So I'm going to drop the dose down down.

Anyway back to the SEA-90. Just got it and I took a few pics for you guys. My first experiment just now was a foliar spray at 1tsp per gallon of R/O water. On my Bluelab Combo meter it read 650ppm at 7.9 PH. So In the next few days it will be interesting to see if anything happens out of the ordinary.

SEA-90
http://i1014.invalid.com/albums/af261/fatyfatkins/IMG_2024.jpg

Contents
http://i1014.invalid.com/albums/af261/fatyfatkins/IMG_2029.jpg

Experiment plant
http://i1014.invalid.com/albums/af261/fatyfatkins/IMG_2027.jpg
http://i1014.invalid.com/albums/af261/fatyfatkins/IMG_2025.jpg
 
leadsled

leadsled

GrowRU
2,145
263
groPal sent me a quart to try out. Going to use it as a supplement/additive.
 
I

IandI

1
0
Hey guys I just got some SEA-90 and I'm going to try using it on my exiled caseyjones plant. I'll admit I have my doubts as many do, but I was just itching to see whats up. I figure it's worth a shot for the hell of it.

Yo Justice

Blessup for doing an experiment on this man, I've been really interested. What is the test plant growing in?

The differences would probably be more drastic in hydro/inert media grow style, but a seperate dimension of uses for this product could be reconditioning soil in re-used soil grows and in long term garden beds etc. In marginal soils and deficient plants I think this would probably make a positive difference (never used the product - this is wildly unsubstantiated opinion!) but I wonder whether it could improve on a dialled grow op.

bless the I!
 
PauliBhoy

PauliBhoy

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63
This stuff is basically snake oil. The "research" they present lacks experimental rigor, omits similar micronutrient product treatments, and generally relies on results from treatments to crops without fertilization. One study on their site claims hay quality (and not yield) was improved with treatments of their product. The control should have included plain water foliar treatment, suggesting this treatment would have had equivalent if not better results. Whether any measured parameters are significant is not given, suggesting that all observed differences are NOT SIGNIFICANT. Just use liquid kelp, it has all the micronutrients in SEA-90 plus cytokinins, amino acids, and other growth stimulants. Don't believe the hype!
 
Tejashidrow

Tejashidrow

191
43
I make ormus
Ormus is basically what’s in sea90 and others
I’ve seen a profound difference to the better useing it
Studies are great
But I study my garden.
DIY your own ormus and decide for your self
Peace
 
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