Are Amino Acids Needed With Bennies?

[Ronnie88]

Ive been reading alot about the benefits of amino acids. Im wondering if the bennies create enough amino acids or if buying a bag of L-amino acids would benefit?

Thanks

 

[socalpunx]

What nutrients are you using alot of them already have L amino acids in them?

 

[Ronnie88]

Gh micro and bloom, caps bennies, molassess, humic, kelp, MAP, MKP, Pot sulphate

 

[Ronnie88]

For people who haven't seen these two vids, excellent info. Reason for the amino post.

Full Plant Nutrient Rundown by Harley Smith (Part 1 of 2)

Full Plant Nutrient Rundown by Harley Smith (Part 2 of 2)

 

[Ronnie88]

Capulator?

 

[sixstring]

i watched those vids the other day,goot sheet!!! i would say use them together unless caps has aminos built in already?

 

[Capulator]

For people who haven't seen these two vids, excellent info. Reason for the amino post.

Full Plant Nutrient Rundown by Harley Smith (Part 1 of 2)

Full Plant Nutrient Rundown by Harley Smith (Part 2 of 2)

That shit is HELLA expensive for some raw salts in a bag.

You can add aminos to your normal routine. I haven't studied enough on aminos to be honest to be giving any valuable info but I will start researching that.

 

[Garden of Dreams]

Aminos kill it! if your not using them Start now! Non GMO soybean meal is the best source and readability available.
It willl raise your Brix levels as well. To answer the O.P Questions Aminos are 1 thing, Bennies another, Both co exist.

 

[Tnelz]

Totally agree with @Garden of Dreams . Even if ur nutes have them I don't feel like u can ever have to much. Someone with a more scientific mind than I could probably confirm or deny that but I can't see there ever being to much amino acids present.

 

[FiveAM]

Non GMO soybean meal is the best source and readability available.

Good spot to get this from?

Also, any thoughts on hydrolyzed whey protein that I see around some places?

 

[Ronnie88]

Aminos kill it! if your not using them Start now! Non GMO soybean meal is the best source and readability available.
It willl raise your Brix levels as well. To answer the O.P Questions Aminos are 1 thing, Bennies another, Both co exist.

Do you know a good source for silica powder that is ph neutral? Sounds like it would be an amazing home for the bennies

 

[Tnelz]

Do you know a good source for silica powder that is ph neutral? Sounds like it would be an amazing home for the bennies

Hard to find a silica product that doesn't raise pH bro. There are products u can use that contain silica though that u can add to your medium and they are pretty pH neutral. Grow stones, hydrolite to name a few.

 

[FiveAM]

Hard to find a silica product that doesn't raise pH bro. There are products u can use that contain silica though that u can add to your medium and they are pretty pH neutral. Grow stones, hydrolite to name a few.

According to the RAW guys their silica is ph neutral if I remember correctly. They are pricey although..

 

[Tnelz]

According to the RAW guys their silica is ph neutral if I remember correctly. They are pricey although..

Actually found the couple of their products I use to be pretty good. Calmag and yucca. Thanks for the info bro!

 

[FiveAM]

Actually found the couple of their products I use to be pretty good. Calmag and yucca. Thanks for the info bro!

I actually talked to Harley Smith on the phone, not about amino but about their yucca. He said it's anywhere from 4%-7% saponin content. He's a pretty knowledgeable guy, and gave me about 15 minutes of his time on the phone.

@Tnelz I would check that video @Ronnie88 posted, I think he talks about silica in the second video.

 

[Herb Forester]

No kidding, $9 for that little baggie of salt! The DE they sell may be pH neutral but it's not very soluble. I use Ferti Organic amino N from soybeans but wondering if there's a cheaper source.

 

[stonestacker]

@Capulator @squiggly two guys way smarter than me.

Did anyone else catch the caution about using cane molasses in hydro?

In part 2 of the above vids @ 13:20 Mr Smith starts talks about cane molasses. @ 17:55 he cautions about using it in hydro during veg especially. stating that the molasses feeds the microbes that feed on nitrates changing nitrates into nitrites. Which are poisonous to plants. In hydro N is mostly nitrates, so depleting the N .

I always use blackstrap molasses in my weekly tea regiment. Then I foliar with it root drench and put in my res.

I often get light spots on half of some leafs and they will hook side ways in veg and early flower. Always thought it was some kind of N problem but never really hurt anything. So I just let it go.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

 

[leadsled]

Ferti-Nitro from custom hydro nutrients is the best bang for the buck.
$16.00 for one LB.
$357 for 50 lbs ends up being about 7.14 a lb
https://customhydronutrients.com/zencart/fertinitro-soluble-amino-acid-c-75_76_288.html

Pure Protein Dry is made from fish $30 a lb


Amino acids build strong cell walls.
Ammonical N gets oxidized to nitrate, then broken down into amino acids then peptides.
Saves the plant energy for other tasks. More detailed explanation from hugh lovel below in the bionutrient pdf I linked.

Improper ratios of nitrogen can make the plants weak and prone to insect and diseases.
https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/hs1181


End of page 3, start of page 4.
Nitrogen fixing microbes, do not simply donate there proteins to feed the plants whose roots provided there energy/ Protozoa and other soil animals must eat the protein rich nitrogen fixers and digest them in order to excrete freshly digested amino acids in the near vicinity of the roots that fed them.
Then plants can take up, almost immediately, freshly digested amino acids before they are broken down. This is a big efficiency because when plant take up nitrogen as amino acids they simple assemble their clorophyll aand other proteins without wasting time and energy converting nitrogen salts into amino acids. When a plant takes up nitrate, for example, roughly 10 units of sugar are used to convert it back into an amino acid - roughly as much energy as it took to make the amino acid by nitrogen fixation.

@Capulator @squiggly two guys way smarter than me.

Did anyone else catch the caution about using cane molasses in hydro?

In part 2 of the above vids @ 13:20 Mr Smith starts talks about cane molasses. @ 17:55 he cautions about using it in hydro during veg especially. stating that the molasses feeds the microbes that feed on nitrates changing nitrates into nitrites. Which are poisonous to plants. In hydro N is mostly nitrates, so depleting the N .

I always use blackstrap molasses in my weekly tea regiment. Then I foliar with it root drench and put in my res.

I often get light spots on half of some leafs and they will hook side ways in veg and early flower. Always thought it was some kind of N problem but never really hurt anything. So I just let it go.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

That is correct statement. Here is more info:
---
Text from Dr. Elaine Ingham:
Bacteria grow well and rapidly on simple sugars to exclusion of any fungus, until sugar concentration becomes extremely high. The simple preservative effect with molasses is the high concentration of sugar. Most organisms cannot grow in the high concentration of sugar. Once a container of molasses is sealed, however, condensate can form on the under-side of the lid if the container suffers heating cooling cycles. As the water drips into the top layer of the molasses concentrate, the sugar content can be diluted enough to allow fungal or actinobacterial growth as a surface scum. Just skim off the surface scum before use in soil, compost, or tea. Do not feed to animals or humans after a surface scum has formed unless you can recognise the organism as non-harmful.

Addition of foods that cause rapid bacterial growth can tie-up nitrate nitrogen so fast, and so effectively that plant growth can be harmed, and even stopped. Bacteria win in competition with plants for N in soil, and thus plants can be killed as the result of lack of N. Of course, the solution to this problem is NOT to kill the bacteria, but rather to establish normal nutrient cycling processes once again. How? Get the protozoa and bacterial-feeding nematodes back to work!

Non-sulphured, Black-strap Molasses: Contains no preservative other than the high concentration of sugar. Black-strap molasses contains about 150 different kinds of sugars, from simple to somewhat complex to humics. During the extraction of sugar, heating results in condensation of the sugars into humic-like substances. The majority of foods in molasses are bacterial foods, but a few are fungal foods. Fungi tolerate high concentrations of sugar better than bacteria, so extremely high concentrations of molasses favour fungi. Testing must be performed to assess what concentration is needed to select for fungi and against bacteria in any particular set of conditions. Testing is also needed when using as a nitrate-to-bacterial biomass converter.

Weed control is often STARTED with addition of molasses to tie-up the excess nitrate helping to set the stage in the soil to grow weeds, and not the plants you want to grow. Assess the calcium situation as well, however, because if you add molasses to grow lots of bacteria, and your soil has poor structure, you may just drive the soil into reduced oxygen conditions, which can result in plant death as well. As Arden Anderson says, "No number is right until all numbers are right". Or as Elaine Ingham says, "What's the most important organ in your body? And you can stay alive with just that one, most important item? You need all your organs, right? Soil needs all the organisms, in the right numbers and right balance and right function".

Organic Molasses: No strong acids or bases, nor extremely high heat are allowed in the production of organic molasses. No preservatives can be used. Because of the lower temperatures used, less condensation of the sugars occur, so fewer condensed, humic materials are present compared to non-sulphured, black-strap molasses

Feed Grade Molasses: Commercial grade molasses has sulphur and possibly other preservatives and antibiotics added to reduce fungal growth. Sulphur in most inorganic forms make excellent fungal inhibitors. Antibiotics will inhibit, kill and prevent the growth a wide range, but not all bacteria and fungi. Thus feed grade molasses is not a good choice for a biological stimulant. Care must be taken to read about the ingredients so no ugly little surprises confront you and you don't get the response you want to see.
----

 

[Herb Forester]

Thanks @leadsled, are you using Ferti and PPD as primary N sources? If so can you elaborate on how?

 

[Tnelz]

Ferti-Nitro from custom hydro nutrients is the best bang for the buck.
$16.00 for one LB.
$357 for 50 lbs ends up being about 7.14 a lb
https://customhydronutrients.com/zencart/fertinitro-soluble-amino-acid-c-75_76_288.html

Pure Protein Dry is made from fish $30 a lb


Amino acids build strong cell walls.
Ammonical N gets oxidized to nitrate, then broken down into amino acids then peptides.
Saves the plant energy for other tasks. More detailed explanation from hugh lovel below in the bionutrient pdf I linked.

Improper ratios of nitrogen can make the plants weak and prone to insect and diseases.
https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/hs1181


End of page 3, start of page 4.
Nitrogen fixing microbes, do not simply donate there proteins to feed the plants whose roots provided there energy/ Protozoa and other soil animals must eat the protein rich nitrogen fixers and digest them in order to excrete freshly digested amino acids in the near vicinity of the roots that fed them.
Then plants can take up, almost immediately, freshly digested amino acids before they are broken down. This is a big efficiency because when plant take up nitrogen as amino acids they simple assemble their clorophyll aand other proteins without wasting time and energy converting nitrogen salts into amino acids. When a plant takes up nitrate, for example, roughly 10 units of sugar are used to convert it back into an amino acid - roughly as much energy as it took to make the amino acid by nitrogen fixation.




That is correct statement. Here is more info:
---
Text from Dr. Elaine Ingham:
Bacteria grow well and rapidly on simple sugars to exclusion of any fungus, until sugar concentration becomes extremely high. The simple preservative effect with molasses is the high concentration of sugar. Most organisms cannot grow in the high concentration of sugar. Once a container of molasses is sealed, however, condensate can form on the under-side of the lid if the container suffers heating cooling cycles. As the water drips into the top layer of the molasses concentrate, the sugar content can be diluted enough to allow fungal or actinobacterial growth as a surface scum. Just skim off the surface scum before use in soil, compost, or tea. Do not feed to animals or humans after a surface scum has formed unless you can recognise the organism as non-harmful.

Addition of foods that cause rapid bacterial growth can tie-up nitrate nitrogen so fast, and so effectively that plant growth can be harmed, and even stopped. Bacteria win in competition with plants for N in soil, and thus plants can be killed as the result of lack of N. Of course, the solution to this problem is NOT to kill the bacteria, but rather to establish normal nutrient cycling processes once again. How? Get the protozoa and bacterial-feeding nematodes back to work!

Non-sulphured, Black-strap Molasses: Contains no preservative other than the high concentration of sugar. Black-strap molasses contains about 150 different kinds of sugars, from simple to somewhat complex to humics. During the extraction of sugar, heating results in condensation of the sugars into humic-like substances. The majority of foods in molasses are bacterial foods, but a few are fungal foods. Fungi tolerate high concentrations of sugar better than bacteria, so extremely high concentrations of molasses favour fungi. Testing must be performed to assess what concentration is needed to select for fungi and against bacteria in any particular set of conditions. Testing is also needed when using as a nitrate-to-bacterial biomass converter.

Weed control is often STARTED with addition of molasses to tie-up the excess nitrate helping to set the stage in the soil to grow weeds, and not the plants you want to grow. Assess the calcium situation as well, however, because if you add molasses to grow lots of bacteria, and your soil has poor structure, you may just drive the soil into reduced oxygen conditions, which can result in plant death as well. As Arden Anderson says, "No number is right until all numbers are right". Or as Elaine Ingham says, "What's the most important organ in your body? And you can stay alive with just that one, most important item? You need all your organs, right? Soil needs all the organisms, in the right numbers and right balance and right function".

Organic Molasses: No strong acids or bases, nor extremely high heat are allowed in the production of organic molasses. No preservatives can be used. Because of the lower temperatures used, less condensation of the sugars occur, so fewer condensed, humic materials are present compared to non-sulphured, black-strap molasses

Feed Grade Molasses: Commercial grade molasses has sulphur and possibly other preservatives and antibiotics added to reduce fungal growth. Sulphur in most inorganic forms make excellent fungal inhibitors. Antibiotics will inhibit, kill and prevent the growth a wide range, but not all bacteria and fungi. Thus feed grade molasses is not a good choice for a biological stimulant. Care must be taken to read about the ingredients so no ugly little surprises confront you and you don't get the response you want to see.
----

Dude it's insane how much knowledge on this subject you have. Great info bro! Seriously much respect!