Beneficial Bug Pics!

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SmithsJunk

SmithsJunk

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Thank you! Just read that some species of damselflies eat caterpillar larvae. Gotta love that!

Damselflies are awesome. They eat anything they can catch. If you can get close enough, watch them when they're eating. Their mouths look like a serrated vice. It's freakish.
 
SmithsJunk

SmithsJunk

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The Leafhopper Assassin Bug, Zelus renardii is a hardworking ambush predator that is an excellent addition to any growing area – large or small. Contrary to what their common name suggests, Leafhopper Assassin Bugs are generalist predators that feed on a variety of small to medium sized plant pests including aphids, mealybugs, small caterpillars, thrips and more.

Assassin Bugs begin feeding immediately after hatching. After reaching the second instar phase of their life cycle, they produce a resin on their legs. This resin allows Zelus renardii to efficiently trap and kill their prey as they move around.

Assassin Bugs capture and kill prey by piercing with their rostrum and injecting a digestive enzyme. This method of predation allows Assassin Bugs to rapidly kill prey that is much larger than they are. These generalists kill and eat a wide variety of small to medium sized insect; they are voracious and very efficient in gardens, fields, orchards and greenhouses.

Their life span is approximately 2 months, which allows them to provide ongoing relief from pest infestations in the area of release. It can take a week to 10 days for eggs to hatch, so take that into account when planning your Integrated Pest Management approach. Once hatched, Assassin Bugs are likely to stay in the treatment area until their food sources have diminished making them a suitable alternative to ladybugs in warmer climates.

Assassin Bugs should not be used alone for infestations of spider mites. They are excellent when used in combination with other mite predators suitable to the growing environment.



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Stop aphid infestations early with these aphid parasites! Aphidius colemani can be used as a preventative or active control measure.

Aphidius colemani is a small parasitic wasp, native to North America that specifically targets aphids. These tiny (1/8" or 2-3 mm) parasitic wasps seek out aphid colonies to provide food and a place to oviposit. Adult A. colemani respond to alarm signals from plants to locate the aphids where they feed on the honeydew aphids excrete. Parasitization occurs when females lay their eggs inside aphid nymphs. A. colemani eggs hatch into larvae which feed on the nymphs from the inside, the nymph swells and hardens into a leathery, grey or brown colored mummy similarly to effects of Aphelinus abdominalis. Once larvae mature, adult A. colemani wasps chew their way out of the aphid mummy and emerge to seek out aphids. These parasites are a good choice for year-round use (in greenhouses and outdoors) as the short days of winter do not affect them.

Preferred food: Honeydew, the sticky fluid produced by aphid infestations.


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For Developing Soil Stage Control of Fungus Gnats, Thrips and Springtails.

This tiny, translucent brown to tan predatory mite naturally inhabits the top layer of soil where pest insect larvae and pupae dwell. Stratiolaelaps scimitus(Hypoaspis miles) is primarily used for treating and controlling fungus gnat infestations, but can also be released as a control measure for root aphids, spider mites and thrips. Female S. scimitus predatory mites lay their eggs in soil where the nymphs and adults feed on pests. Nymphal feeding focuses on eggs and immature larvae (instars) of fungus gnats in addition to pupal stages of thrips. If the infestation being treated is severe, use S. scimitus along with Sf Beneficial Nematodes and Blue Sticky Traps. Consider using S. scimitus along with Neoseiulus cucumeris if you are treating an active thrips infestation.

The S. scimitus life cycle lasts around 13 days and can accelerate or lengthen in different environmental conditions. Optimal conditions for S. scimitusperformance are temperatures from 60-74° and high relative humidity. These conditions refer to soil conditions more so than atmospheric conditions as the Stratiolaelaps are most active in the growing medium. Cooler temperatures can have a negative impact on reproduction and development.


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Feltiella acarisuga is a tiny gall-midge that feeds on two-spotted spider mites and various other species of spider mites. We recommend Feltiellaespecially when spider mite infestations are severe; they may be used with appropriate mite predators for the most effective control. They are most often used in tomatoes, cucumbers, sweet peppers, other greenhouse crops and field strawberry crops. Feltiella works best for plants which have hairy stems. Of particular interest to greenhouse growers is that they have been shown to work quite effectively in situations where other mite predators have been ineffective by themselves.

Appearance & Life Cycle: Ideal temperature range is 60°-77° with humidity 50-90%; they do not survive well above 86° or below 30% humidity. The entire life cycle is about 15 days. Adults are about 2 mm long, pinkish-brown, and have long legs. They do not prey on spider mites, but drink water and nectar. The female adult gall-midges actively search for spider mite colonies and deposit eggs next to them for about 5 days. Eggs laid are 0.1 x 0.25 mm in size and are shiny and translucent. They hatch in 2 days. The larvae that hatch from the eggs are 0.2- 2 mm in length and are orange-brown. They feed on all stages of the spider mite for 4-6 days, depending on the temperature, humidity, and abundance of spider mites. Larvae pupate inside a white cocoon, usually on the underside of leaves along the veins. It takes 4-6 days to produce an adult.


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Dicyphus hesperus is a beneficial predator that prefers the eggs and larval stages of the greenhouse whitefly, Trialeurodes vaporariorum, and tobacco whitefly, Bemisia tabaci. Feeding primarily on these pests, Dicyphus hesperus will also feed on other species of whitefly, two-spotted spider mites, moth eggs, and the larvae of thrips and leafminer if the target prey is not available.

The adults measure approximately 6mm, are black and green with red eyes and can also fly. Nymphs are green and have red eyes. Adults lay eggs inside plant tissue making them difficult to detect.

To help you make the most informed decision regarding the best beneficial for your situation, please note the following about Dicyphus Hesperus:

  • Dicyphus hesperus does not control, but is helpful in reducing populations of mites, moth eggs and larvae of thrips and leafminer.
  • To most effectively control populations of whitefly, pair Dicyphus Hesperus with Eretmocerus eremicus or other predatory insects.
  • When their preferred pest insects are in short supply, high populations of Dicyphus Hesperus may consume plant material.
  • Dicyphus hesperus is used as a control for greenhouse and tobacco whitefly on tomato, pepper, and eggplant crops. They do not typically damage plants from this plant family.
  • They must feed on insects to reproduce and their population develops most rapidly when feeding on a population of whitefly.


Dicyphus hesperus prefers temperatures in a nominal range of 75° F and Relative Humidity up to 50%.


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Identification: Mesoseiulus longipes are pear-shaped predatory mites measuring roughly 0.5mm in length. Coloration varies from beige to amber/red. Females are the predominant sex with a ratio of 4 females to 1 male.

Preferred food: M. longipes is frequently used for control of spider mites in hot, dry greenhouses as they consume egg, nymph and adult stages. Similar to P. persimilis, M. longipes feed faster than other mite predators.

Optimal Conditions: Use these beneficial mites with in warm conditions with moderate humidity (70-90°F, RH as low as 40%). M. longipes are effective in temperatures up to 100°F, although a comparable increase in humidity is required. Apply these predators in warm greenhouses and interiorscapes with artificial lighting or in outdoor settings with suitable conditions. The lower humidity needs of M. longipes make it ideal for controlling spider mite infestations on taller plants in greenhouses.

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Rove Beetles are a beneficial insect that feeds on the soil-dwelling larvae of fungus gnats, shore fly, moth fly and pupae of thrips and springtails. There is evidence that they will also provide some control for root mealybugs. Adults are a brown-black color, 3 - 4 mm long and winged. Larvae are thin, pale yellow and darken in the later larval stages. They are difficult to scout once released. It is recommended that you place flat rocks on the ground throughout the release area. The rocks provide a welcome shelter for the beneficial where you can lift the rocks to scout for them. They develop from egg to adult in about 21 days, passing through three larval instars prior to pupation and adulthood. Larval instars and adults are predatory. Winged adults have high dispersal and colonization rates and establish in various growing media.

This exceptional beneficial works best under the following conditions:

  • Temperatures between 55 ° and 80 ° F - providing protection at lower temperatures than Hypoaspis miles.
  • Humidity range between 50 – 80%.
  • The Rove Beetle is slow to act when first released, for this reason we do not recommend them if the situation is critical and requires fast acting relief.
  • We recommend that you release the Rove Beetle twice in a 7 day interval for quick establishment.
  • Adults consume about 150 fungus gnat larvae per day.
  • They are compatible with Hypoaspis miles but may consume other beneficial insects.

Don't those assasin bugs have a nasty bite? I don't know if I'd want them in my garden.
 
Organikz

Organikz

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Sprigtails are great in an organic grow. They are choppers which is one of the first stages of decomposition. The fact they're in coco concerns me though. Isn't coco inert? So where the decaying organic matter? I'm hoping it's not root biomass.

Most organic methods don't effect them because they are beneficial under natural conditions. A neem oil soil drench would suffocate them but it's hard on your plants also. I think h. Miles keeps the population in check but they're soil dwellers. Do you use a plant biotic with beneficial bacteria (mychoriza) and fungi (bacillus)? I run +LIFE. 1/4 teaspoon treats 10g of water. I add it to compost/EWC slurries. It can be used in hydro I just try to allow it multiply in the slurry to get more bang for my buck.

I know h202 will explode fungus gnat larvae.
 
Monster762

Monster762

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I know this is a little old but are praying mantis good for pest defense. I ask cause I'm setting up a new sealed room n right now there are loads of them around the outside of house. Starting to get colder so they'll be gone soon. Wondering if I should catch 2-3 of them and put them in the room. And if so what could I feed the mantis that won't endanger plants to keep them alive. I don't think you can buy praying mantis. Wondering if that's the only reason no one has them in thier grow.
 
SmithsJunk

SmithsJunk

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Let's see pictures of those good bugs that we love to see in the garden! Natures pesticide, stay up dudes

Just so people know, and you feel better about this post...

Katydid 6186 09 08 2017


...not all locusts, katydids, and crickets are herbivores, some are carnivores, and I believe a few are omnivores.

This katydid was hunting so it's a good bet it's a carnivore. Observe their behavior before killing them to make sure you're not killing an ally.

If you don't see them eating your plant then there's a good chance its a beneficial. Just make sure they're not a bad one mating and laying. Best times to observe feeding habits are daybreak and dusk. During the middle of the day they may be inactive because they're only trying to stay cool.
 
JbirdKushman

JbirdKushman

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Just so people know, and you feel better about this post...

View attachment 744581

...not all locusts, katydids, and crickets are herbivores, some are carnivores, and I believe a few are omnivores.

This katydid was hunting so it's a good bet it's a carnivore. Observe their behavior before killing them to make sure you're not killing an ally.

If you don't see them eating your plant then there's a good chance its a beneficial. Just make sure they're not a bad one mating and laying. Best times to observe feeding habits are daybreak and dusk. During the middle of the day they may be inactive because they're only trying to stay cool.
Thank you for the response! Yes I never saw any damage on my plant from the grasshopper but I got rid of them as soon as people pointed out my mistake.
 
SmithsJunk

SmithsJunk

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I know this is a little old but are praying mantis good for pest defense. I ask cause I'm setting up a new sealed room n right now there are loads of them around the outside of house. Starting to get colder so they'll be gone soon. Wondering if I should catch 2-3 of them and put them in the room. And if so what could I feed the mantis that won't endanger plants to keep them alive. I don't think you can buy praying mantis. Wondering if that's the only reason no one has them in thier grow.

You can buy mantis eggs on amazon. They might even hold out till next season to hatch. Check on that though. They will be everywhere if you don't get them in the right place before they hatch. They will also go cannibal if there's no other food source.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M...rds=mantis&dpPl=1&dpID=61ldqYoLkRL&ref=plSrch

Hope this helps. You can probably find them cheaper. I just posted the first one I found.
 
SmithsJunk

SmithsJunk

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Thank you for the response! Yes I never saw any damage on my plant from the grasshopper but I got rid of them as soon as people pointed out my mistake.

YW

I think the locust (large grasshopper looking insect) was a carni and that cricket was a herbi. Unfortunately it's hard, if not impossible to tell on the locusts without watching behavior. Seen those crickets sucking at the main vein junctions on my fan leaves. Brilliant feeding location. Does very little damage and they get more than they can eat.
 
SmithsJunk

SmithsJunk

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Get yourself a nice Audubon Field Guide to North American Insects. Excellent resource. I published in it when was a kid. Loved entomology.

I think they still have the bada$$ little leather looking ones with the most excellent pics in the middle. Try to find the newest edition because all of the findings are ongoing observations and can change as often as they are updated.
 
jumpincactus

jumpincactus

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Get yourself a nice Audubon Field Guide to North American Insects. Excellent resource. I published in it when was a kid. Loved entomology.

I think they still have the bada$$ little leather looking ones with the most excellent pics in the middle. Try to find the newest edition because all of the findings are ongoing observations and can change as often as they are updated.
Great heads up on the mag. Thanks man.
 
SmithsJunk

SmithsJunk

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Great heads up on the mag. Thanks man.

No problem. I need to pick up a new set myself.

Just to clarify, they are field guides that are updated from time to time. Excellent photos (I'm a photography junkie). That was my bible when I was a kid (well, aside from my Bible, lol). They were called pocket field guides back in the day, even though they didn't fit in anyone's pockets. I guess they would be considered a periodical since they're updated regularly, and they're so loaded with info they actually have to use bible paper to keep them small.

Takes me back...

S l1600
 

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