bho, winterizing ... still no shatter :(

[Graywolf]

Check out American Scientific in Portland for vacuum filtration attachments.

 

[pugliese63]

could anyone chime in about straining the winterized oil? it takes forever pouring just a small amount at a time, letting it filter thru and coming back to freezer to do it all over again.

skunkpharm suggests using a buchner funnel, one that uses vacuum to help speed filtering oils and whatever else. any suggestions or things I should keep in mind while buying? don't necessarily need a website but it would be nice :eek:





thanks

I like this site. They have all the supplies necessary along with some helpful tutorials.

I'm going to pick up a Buchner set-up myself for winterizing. If you're interested in this type of device you'll need an aspirator not a vacuum pump although I've seen them with hand operated pumps. Since I'm not a chemical engineer or scientist I was not aware of this and a little intimidated.

After viewing a few of their tutorials I'm quite comfortable moving forward with this type of set up. The aspirator is a simple and inexpensive device that can be connected to a faucet.

Check it out, you may find it helpful. For someone like myself who doesn't work with this type of equipment I found that getting educated is the key. Nothing worse than having great equipment and not knowing how to use it correctly.

There are also a number of good videos on you tube regarding Buchner funnels that I found helpful in understanding how to set them up correctly.

Here's another link that some may find interesting regarding high quality ethanol for winterizing. Not cheap but quality never is.

 

[connoisseurde420]

I will check both starting to get backed up with winterizing material.

 

[connoisseurde420]

going with home science tools.com they had their stuff the cheapest. going to be less than 30 bucks for a 250 ml setup. plus some fittings and hose. should be ez

the video I saw they had vacuum hooked up to it. I imagine you could get a similar effect with running water tho. I'm going to try adapting my vac. With the air acess thru the filter I doubt there will be any stressing of equipment. ?

 

[connoisseurde420]

equipment on the way and I have been gifted with a 5 gal bucket o buds to blast so I will have more pics but here's what I been up to so far. .

first pic is winterizing filter!
second is my test run from the bucket

 

[Capulator]

I would need to know the temperature and pool depth to comment.

A vacuum purge in a thin film at 115F until the solvent bubbles stop and only the Co2 and terpene bubbles remain, is the easiest way that I know to consistently end up with shatter.

How do you know which bubbles are which?

I put water in the vac chamber to see what would happen and it just boil seemingly indefinitely.

 

[connoisseurde420]

big different sized bubbles are what you are watching. the tiny evensized bubbles are co2? released from decarbing thc.

water boils in a vac, so you're getting down far enough vac wise

 

[Graywolf]

How do you know which bubbles are which?

I put water in the vac chamber to see what would happen and it just boil seemingly indefinitely.

As C420 noted, the solvent bubbles are lively and uneven sized, some quite large, while the CO2 bubbles are small and fizzy, although unless you keep it stirred, some of the small bubbles will get together and produce larger bubbles.

 

[Capulator]

big different sized bubbles are what you are watching. the tiny evensized bubbles are co2? released from decarbing thc.

water boils in a vac, so you're getting down far enough vac wise

As C420 noted, the solvent bubbles are lively and uneven sized, some quite large, while the CO2 bubbles are small and fizzy, although unless you keep it stirred, some of the small bubbles will get together and produce larger bubbles.

Thanks guys. :)

 

[connoisseurde420]

here's a nug run I did for a friend..

getting closer to that shatter consistency, but I'm japy with what I got cause its pretty easy to handle.

its more of a fruit roll up consistency peels right off in one price. just doesn't snap, more like tardy when u try to tear it.

the strain was ice, poorly grown hydro from a warehouse grow. got it about two weeks after being harvested and they were perfect dryness for smoking.

 

[connoisseurde420]

got my vac filter today gonna hook it up tonight since I can't be at the high times cup :(

 

[connoisseurde420]

soooooo much faster, anyone who is winterizing with a vac needs this!

 

[Ever after]

dirty extract bowls or chambers make for waxy hash oil .. i dont get why people want dirty impure hash oil thats all wax is

 

[connoisseurde420]

people are just starting to educate themselves. so glad that I did! was always partial to bubble hash before, but now I know how to be safe

 

[mmmdankbuds420]

http://www.iseekush.com/Kali/video/view/420

Follow that video step for step and I GUARANTEE you make a high quality shatter. I have successfully made shatter the way I assume you are attempting now, and I have made it how the video shows and this method is better in my opinion. The guy who made this video is on YouTube "woody oil maker" is his user name and he has more videos on explaining stuff he does and tips and tricks. this is the shatter I made using this technique. Its not just shatter, its absolute shatter. and the everclear in the winterizing process helps extract fat, waxes, and lipids that the butane has picked up from the bud along with the cannabinoids. its makes a cleaner, smoother hit. burns clean, no residue left on nail, not even after 10+ grams of shatter.

 

[connoisseurde420]

exactly what I ended up doing. need to winterize that last batch and I bet it will be shatter

 

[mmmdankbuds420]

Nice, Im glad I've finally met another person who has tried these two methods. Is it just me, or did you find you preferred to do the ever clear method? I will say if I let the butane boil down too much before adding ever clear the end result will be very gooey, almost like a shatter-wax hybrid. Lol. I was just reading through some of the comments and I had a buddy lose a batch of amazingly amber shatter because his pump decided to spit oil into the chamber. it was a sad sad day. Something I'm unsure of is potency of everclear. Where I'm from I can only get the 151 proof ever clear. I have always wondered if the 190 proof could make a cleaner end product? anybody have any thoughts on that one?

 

[connoisseurde420]

Nice, Im glad I've finally met another person who has tried these two methods. Is it just me, or did you find you preferred to do the ever clear method? I will say if I let the butane boil down too much before adding ever clear the end result will be very gooey, almost like a shatter-wax hybrid. Lol. I was just reading through some of the comments and I had a buddy lose a batch of amazingly amber shatter because his pump decided to spit oil into the chamber. it was a sad sad day. Something I'm unsure of is potency of everclear. Where I'm from I can only get the 151 proof ever clear. I have always wondered if the 190 proof could make a cleaner end product? anybody have any thoughts on that one?

my guess is it would evaporate faster and take less to dissolve the bho since its less water. probably same quality.

 

[TNTnall]

Hi All, Just thought I'd add.

I have a Vacmobile 1hp, 12cfm vacuum pump. It is over kill at over $2500.00 as it is designed to infuse fiberglass boat hulls. BUT it gets the job done very quickly compared to a 3 or even 6cfm and is designed to run for hours at full vac.

I do thin film purge at approximately 3/8" layers. I do them in 10 gram batches on 100mm Pyrex petri dishes lined with parchment. I like the dishes as they really add alot of uniformity to the batches. First I vac purge my BHO at room temperature until it is stable (not creating a muffin) I then increase the heat to 110 degrees (on my material) for 30 minutes. The griddle is set to 225 degrees to get the inside of the pot and material to a consistent 110 degrees. Then give it 10 minutes of no vac. And then I do another 30 minutes of full vac. and then 10 minutes of no vac while always staying at 110 degrees. My vacuum chamber is a 6 gallon stainless stock pot with a 3/4" clear acrylic lid. Sitting on a griddle that I can dialed down to as low as 75 degrees, even though it starts out at 200 on the dial.

I have a rack inside raising the material off the bottom. Basically making it an oven. I do not like the material to sit on the direct heat. This way the heat stays consistant across the material. I do this for approximately 3 hours. During the process, even at full vac the material is crystal clear. There are some CO2 bubbles present. I pay close attention to the bubbles size and uniformity. That way the batch wont stay on the heat to long and have any chance to carboxylate. Once the batch is stable and not muffin'ing out. I am also able to stack petri dishes on each other and am able to do up to 100+ gram batches. I then let the finished product sit at room temp until cool and it is beautiful. I will upload some pics.

Below is 120 grams I was able to do at one time by stagger stacking the dishes shortly after each layer of 5 dishes stabilized (not muffin'ing) with heat. Thin film Vac purging is the trick to a nice clear uniform shatter.

Also, I get a gorgeous wax by folding these disc 4 or 5 times and continuing to vac and raise the heat to 125 degrees. The wax is VERY VERY clean if done his way. Has the best flavor profile and works great with winterized material as well.

 

[connoisseurde420]

Hi All, Just thought I'd add.

I have a Vacmobile 1hp, 12cfm vacuum pump. It is over kill at over $2500.00 as it is designed to infuse fiberglass boat hulls. BUT it gets the job done very quickly compared to a 3 or even 6cfm and is designed to run for hours at full vac.

I do thin film purge at approximately 3/8" layers. I do them in 10 gram batches on 100mm Pyrex petri dishes lined with parchment. I like the dishes as they really add alot of uniformity to the batches. First I vac purge my BHO at room temperature until it is stable (not creating a muffin) I then increase the heat to 110 degrees (on my material) for 30 minutes. The griddle is set to 225 degrees to get the inside of the pot and material to a consistent 110 degrees. Then give it 10 minutes of no vac. And then I do another 30 minutes of full vac. and then 10 minutes of no vac while always staying at 110 degrees. My vacuum chamber is a 6 gallon stainless stock pot with a 3/4" clear acrylic lid. Sitting on a griddle that I can dialed down to as low as 75 degrees, even though it starts out at 200 on the dial.

I have a rack inside raising the material off the bottom. Basically making it an oven. I do not like the material to sit on the direct heat. This way the heat stays consistant across the material. I do this for approximately 3 hours. During the process, even at full vac the material is crystal clear. There are some CO2 bubbles present. I pay close attention to the bubbles size and uniformity. That way the batch wont stay on the heat to long and have any chance to carboxylate. Once the batch is stable and not muffin'ing out. I am also able to stack petri dishes on each other and am able to do up to 100+ gram batches. I then let the finished product sit at room temp until cool and it is beautiful. I will upload some pics.

Below is 120 grams I was able to do at one time by stagger stacking the dishes shortly after each layer of 5 dishes stabilized (not muffin'ing) with heat. Thin film Vac purging is the trick to a nice clear uniform shatter.

Also, I get a gorgeous wax by folding these disc 4 or 5 times and continuing to vac and raise the heat to 125 degrees. The wax is VERY VERY clean if done his way. Has the best flavor profile and works great with winterized material as well.

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what kind of starting material