Burning It To Hell Or Deficiency ?

[black thumb]

So I honestly have zero clue what I'm doing wrong.

My pH is a perfect range (6.5 - 6.8) my run off also displays that. I'm using Fox Farms Ocean Forest soil. I didn't start seeing this until 2-3 weeks into veg. The edges started browning and getting worse, and right outside the burn was bright yellowish white so I assumed it wasn't burning. So I started to feed using Blue planet nutrients farmer's pride organic line as it shows on their schedule. I fed them and then the top tips get burnt. I did water 1-2ml of liquid seaweed with every watering. I never had a problem with overwatering either.

Humidity is around 48 - 50%. Temps are 75-78F range. I'm using a 400 watt MH. My only guess is it being 12 inches tall in a one gallon container is starting to screw it up? The strain is AK-48. I actually have 2 others and they are nowhere near as bad but have some of the same symptoms. Maybe 5-10% of what you're seeing.

 

[Jack og]

Hmm, lil root bound.
It’s getting locked out
It’s also showing multiple deficiencies due to its inability to uptakes nutrients.
I would transplant to larger final pots and let her recover. Also fox farms can be a little hot for smaller plants.
When transplanting, use a mix of fox farms and some inert media, Moss/ coco. 30-70 mix 30 inert to 70 fox farms soil. Don’t feed for a week post transplant thrnrn start on weak feed schedule. But do water with cal mag

 

[black thumb]

Damn unfortunately I won't be able to repot until I get more soil the first week of next month.

 

[JWM2]

Nute burn. This happens a lot with FFOF. I just went through a bout of it even having cut it down to 40% FFOF + 40% Coco + 20% Perlite.

I’ve since switched up my soil mix and no longer use it. I’d rather bottle feed my nutes than have hot soil that I can’t do much about other than flush it.

What I would do is a partial flush. Run about the same volume of water through it than there is of soil. Let it dry out and then hit it with some diluted organic fertilizer solution (1/4 strength) with some added calmag. That should get it back on the right track. Pay attention to the new growth. The old growth won’t ever recover so don’t pay much attention to it.

 

[MIMedGrower]

I think in 3 weeks in a 1 gallon the nutrients in the soil were depleted and the plant had a potassium deficiency and maybe mag.

Full strength nutes are usually 3-4 times too strong for a young plant for the first fertilizing. Try to start at 15-25% max and work up slowly next time.

For now leach the soil with a half gallon or so of fresh water only and let her dry out real good before transplanting or lightly fertilizing.

Root bound is more myth than reality. A small pot just requires more often watering and will build up salt blockage faster than a large one.

Here is a plant I grew 12/12 from seed. She vegged 3-4 weeks before flowering and bloomed 10 weeks. She yielded 1.75 oz dry and is in a #1 nursery pot of ocean forest and 25% large perlite mixed in. About .75 gallons actual soil volume. She was fed only pure Blend Pro Grow at max 50% of directions. Started fertilizing about 4 weeks after sprout at 15% of directions and tapered back down when the pistols started turning orange as they don’t need much to ripen.

Hope this helped :-)

 

[Daikokuten]

I think in 3 weeks in a 1 gallon the nutrients in the soil were depleted and the plant had a potassium deficiency and maybe mag.

Full strength nutes are usually 3-4 times too strong for a young plant for the first fertilizing. Try to start at 15-25% max and work up slowly next time.

For now leach the soil with a half gallon or so of fresh water only and let her dry out real good before transplanting or lightly fertilizing.

Root bound is more myth than reality. A small pot just requires more often watering and will build up salt blockage faster than a large one.

Here is a plant I grew 12/12 from seed. She vegged 3-4 weeks before flowering and bloomed 10 weeks. She yielded 1.75 oz dry and is in a #1 nursery pot of ocean forest and 25% large perlite mixed in. About .75 gallons actual soil volume. She was fed only pure Blend Pro Grow at max 50% of directions. Started fertilizing about 4 weeks after sprout at 15% of directions and tapered back down when the pistols started turning orange as they don’t need much to ripen.

View attachment 837389
Hope this helped :)

I like you at least 2x more after this post, and i already liked you.

 

[MIMedGrower]

I like you at least 2x more after this post, and i already liked you.

Well thank you very much.

 

[jumpincactus]

1st you didn't mention, were you feeding those 2-3 weeks in veg,? meaning ferts while in FF soil.

Where most folks run into problems with claiming FF soil is (too hot) is cause they are also feeding ferts while in fresh FF soil. FF alone will sustain vigorous growth for 2-3 weeks with out any additional inputs. So back to my question, were you also feeding the plants during veg?

FF can be rough on seedlings but once established they can go into FF but for 1st 3 weeks don't feed them. They will get all they need from the soil.

In addition your not in a perfect range for soil. 6.1 to 6.3 is perfect. Sometimes even 6.5 will work well, strain dependent. But at 6.8 your locking out vital nutes at this level. Cannabis thrives in slightly acidic soil at 6.8 you are leaning towards a neutral of 7.0. Try lowering and keeping your feed water at 6.3 and wait a week or so. Bet you see some changes. :D

If you stay with FF use light warrior for your starts then uppot to FF ocean forest but hold back on feeding anything but water for the 1st 3 weeks. Or when you start to see plant leaves yellowing on lower bottom growth.

 

[black thumb]

1st you didn't mention, were you feeding those 2-3 weeks in veg,? meaning ferts while in FF soil.

I watered using only 1ml liquid seaweed per/gallon of water with a small sprinkle of mykos when transplanting from a solo cup to the 1g pot. Didn't give it anything other than that before I started seeing browning/dying edges/blotches (which was around around the 2-3 week mark.) That was mainly the reason why I didn't think it was nute burn and started to feed. I'll lower my pH a bit next watering

 

[black thumb]

Full strength nutes are usually 3-4 times too strong for a young plant for the first fertilizing. Try to start at 15-25% max and work up slowly next time.

For now leach the soil with a half gallon or so of fresh water only and let her dry out real good before transplanting or lightly fertilizing.:)

kk it's watering time anyways, I'll give it a good watering of plain water. I did feed it full strength week 3 nutes on the chart. But I thought it being an organic line it wouldn't cook them :/ and ill try lowering the pH a tad bit more.

 

[MIMedGrower]

kk it's watering time anyways, I'll give it a good watering of plain water. I did feed it full strength week 3 nutes on the chart. But I thought it being an organic line it wouldn't cook them :/ and ill try lowering the pH a tad bit more.

Sounds good. It’s like jumpin cactus said above. Too many nutes left in the soil plus the full strength feed will start to lock out roots. They actually get clogged by all the elements.

And even organic fertilizers should be started off light. I use a hydro organic fertilizer. But it contains calcium carbonate for example. It’s in my well water. There is calcium in the soil as oyster shell powder. And now I pour more in too early. Going to cause problems.

 

[SmithsJunk]

I think in 3 weeks in a 1 gallon the nutrients in the soil were depleted and the plant had a potassium deficiency and maybe mag.

Full strength nutes are usually 3-4 times too strong for a young plant for the first fertilizing. Try to start at 15-25% max and work up slowly next time.

For now leach the soil with a half gallon or so of fresh water only and let her dry out real good before transplanting or lightly fertilizing.

Root bound is more myth than reality. A small pot just requires more often watering and will build up salt blockage faster than a large one.

Here is a plant I grew 12/12 from seed. She vegged 3-4 weeks before flowering and bloomed 10 weeks. She yielded 1.75 oz dry and is in a #1 nursery pot of ocean forest and 25% large perlite mixed in. About .75 gallons actual soil volume. She was fed only pure Blend Pro Grow at max 50% of directions. Started fertilizing about 4 weeks after sprout at 15% of directions and tapered back down when the pistols started turning orange as they don’t need much to ripen.

View attachment 837389
Hope this helped :)

Great answer.

 

[SmithsJunk]

I use Fox Farm Lucky Dog K-9 Kube without any amendments. Didn't feed for nearly 40 days. Fed Hawaiian Bud & Bloom 5-50-17 at half strength the first week of the 12/12 flip and my girls are very healthy.

1st you didn't mention, were you feeding those 2-3 weeks in veg,? meaning ferts while in FF soil.

Where most folks run into problems with claiming FF soil is (too hot) is cause they are also feeding ferts while in fresh FF soil. FF alone will sustain vigorous growth for 2-3 weeks with out any additional inputs. So back to my question, were you also feeding the plants during veg?

FF can be rough on seedlings but once established they can go into FF but for 1st 3 weeks don't feed them. They will get all they need for the soil.

In addition your not in a perfect range for soil. 6.1 to 6.3 is perfect. Sometimes even 6.5 will work well, strain dependent. But at 6.8 your locking out vital nutes at this level. Cannabis thrives in slightly acidic soil at 6.8 you are leaning towards a neutral of 7.0. Try lowering and keeping your feed water at 6.3 and wait a week or so. Bet you see some changes. :D

If you stay with FF use light warrior for your starts then uppot to FF ocean forest but hold back on feeding anything but water for the 1st 3 weeks. Or when you start to see plant leaves yellowing on lower bottom growth.

I'm just learning indoor so I don't know perfect pH for indoor soil, but outdoor I'm running Sativa dominants at around 6.8-7.1 and they do very well, you've seen them. So did my Kush last year (I didn't do a pH on it but it's nearly the exact same mix of soil so the pH should be comperable).

Everything I've read says that 6.5-6.8 is optimal, on the other hand, I've seen your girls and they're spectacular. Does your pH range apply to outdoor or indoor Only? If it's also optimal for outdoor I'll bring it down next year. They're already nice plants, I can't imagine what they're going to be like if this does apply.

 

[MIMedGrower]

I use Fox Farm Lucky Dog K-9 Kube without any amendments. Didn't feed for nearly 40 days. Fed Hawaiian Bud & Bloom 5-50-17 at half strength the first week of the 12/12 flip and my girls are very healthy.
View attachment 837502



I'm just learning indoor so I don't know perfect pH for indoor soil, but outdoor I'm running Sativa dominants at around 6.8-7.1 and they do very well, you've seen them. So did my Kush last year (I didn't do a pH on it but it's nearly the exact same mix of soil so the pH should be comperable).

Everything I've read says that 6.5-6.8 is optimal, on the other hand, I've seen your girls and they're spectacular. Does your pH range apply to outdoor or indoor Only? If it's also optimal for outdoor I'll bring it down next year. They're already nice plants, I can't imagine what they're going to be like if this does apply.

It’s not the ph in water to worry about but the alkalinity. Hard water needs attention. It will raise the ph of the medium over time as it is like pouring a little lime in every time. It builds up.

But normal tap water around 200 ppm or less will be adjusted automatically by the lime or oyster shell in the soil mix.

Too soft water may need cal mag or at least have it in the fertilizer. 150 ppm is ideal for buffering. It is generally suggested to mix up or down to achieve this mineral content. By mixing tap with ro water to lower if hard water.

Watering with good runoff. Even excessive will also help clear calcium buildup from soil.

I have relatively soft well water. But it has 8.0 ph out of the tap. My problems went away when I learned about alkalinity and stopped adding acid to get to 6.3-6.5 ph.

I haven’t adjusted the ph in 3 years now of successful perpetual growing. And I only check new mixes before planting to be sure the lime is activated and correct. Or if I have a problem I may check.

Ph’ing is really necessary for hydro not potting soil so much.

 

[JWM2]

Imo it really depends on the source water. In Illinois we had very acidic ground water being next to corn and soybean fields (they spray chemicals on them all the time and between seasons they treat the soil) so I was used to adding lime to my soil.

Here in Michigan not so much. We have very alkaline water and the ph stays in the right zone without hassle. I made a mistake and added lime to my soil mix and that as you can guess had my ph way up out of range. I quit using the lime and everything went back to normal. So it just depends really. Best to know the ph of your source water and adjust your growing accordingly.

I had grown in Illinois for over 10 years and just took it for granted. Once I started up in a new location it took a week or two to figure it out again. But once you get on track it’s easy to get into the groove again.

 

[MIMedGrower]

Imo it really depends on the source water. In Illinois we had very acidic ground water being next to corn and soybean fields (they spray chemicals on them all the time and between seasons they treat the soil) so I was used to adding lime to my soil.

Here in Michigan not so much. We have very alkaline water and the ph stays in the right zone without hassle. I made a mistake and added lime to my soil mix and that as you can guess had my ph way up out of range. I quit using the lime and everything went back to normal. So it just depends really. Best to know the ph of your source water and adjust your growing accordingly.

I had grown in Illinois for over 10 years and just took it for granted. Once I started up in a new location it took a week or two to figure it out again. But once you get on track it’s easy to get into the groove again.

I agree and that’s what I am saying above but the ppm of mineral content in the water decides what measures need taken not the ph. But high ph is a good indicator of high ppm. Just is t always true. With softer water the high ph just adjusts when it hits the mix with lime.

And here is a bit of info I thought interesting. Pro mix recommends testing ph of new bales as they may have been over limed and will raise the medium ph too much. Clumps can get stuck in the mixer apparently.

They also recommend using unadjusted tap water the first week or two while the lime charges.

Alkalinity is the reason for all these things.

 

[jumpincactus]

It’s not the ph in water to worry about but the alkalinity. Hard water needs attention. It will raise the ph of the medium over time as it is like pouring a little lime in every time. It builds up.

But normal tap water around 200 ppm or less will be adjusted automatically by the lime or oyster shell in the soil mix.

Too soft water may need cal mag or at least have it in the fertilizer. 150 ppm is ideal for buffering. It is generally suggested to mix up or down to achieve this mineral content. By mixing tap with ro water to lower if hard water.

Watering with good runoff. Even excessive will also help clear calcium buildup from soil.

I have relatively soft well water. But it has 8.0 ph out of the tap. My problems went away when I learned about alkalinity and stopped adding acid to get to 6.3-6.5 ph.

I haven’t adjusted the ph in 3 years now of successful perpetual growing. And I only check new mixes before planting to be sure the lime is activated and correct. Or if I have a problem I may check.

Ph’ing is really necessary for hydro not potting soil so much.

you my friend hit the nail right on the head. Lots of folks get confused with the differences in higher Ph 7 and above being on the alkaline side to hard water that is high in alkalinity.

I posted on this some time back. Lets see if I can find it.

There it is. Great information, read up homeys...………. :D

https://www.thcfarmer.com/community...ater-with-high-alkalinity.77509/#post-1569526

 

[jumpincactus]

I use Fox Farm Lucky Dog K-9 Kube without any amendments. Didn't feed for nearly 40 days. Fed Hawaiian Bud & Bloom 5-50-17 at half strength the first week of the 12/12 flip and my girls are very healthy.
View attachment 837502



I'm just learning indoor so I don't know perfect pH for indoor soil, but outdoor I'm running Sativa dominants at around 6.8-7.1 and they do very well, you've seen them. So did my Kush last year (I didn't do a pH on it but it's nearly the exact same mix of soil so the pH should be comperable).

Everything I've read says that 6.5-6.8 is optimal, on the other hand, I've seen your girls and they're spectacular. Does your pH range apply to outdoor or indoor Only? If it's also optimal for outdoor I'll bring it down next year. They're already nice plants, I can't imagine what they're going to be like if this does apply.

Indoor only. And I can agree with your higher outdoor ph as sativas and sativa dom strains do well outdoors in higher ph ranges. And we have found over the years that some sativas don't need a lot of nutrients outside as compared to some indica varieties.

 

[SmithsJunk]

Indoor only. And I can agree with your higher outdoor ph as sativas and sativa dom strains do well outdoors in higher ph ranges. And we have found over the years that some sativas don't need a lot of nutrients outside as compared to some indica varieties.

Well, cool then. Thank you.

Sativa are my gig. Though I do like a nice bong rip of some booyah Indica/Kush from time to time.

 

[Jack og]

Ph vs nutrient abilities of marijuana plants