Cheap alternatives to overpriced hydroponic nutrients

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Savage Henry

Savage Henry

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@skywalkerOG

I've been running it for almost 6 months now. Made some changes based on posts from several people on here:

I add .25g/gal ferti-organic powdered fulvic acid

When I see pistols and buds starting to form I'll add .3g/gal mkp, then .5g/gal the last 2 weeks before flush.

Week 6 I cut back the cal-nit by 20%

And 1.25ml/gal of an agsil solution diluted to 7.8%

Works like a charm (in coir/perlite on drippers) First go-round I hit just under 2 a light with an imperfect environment.

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(Foxtail ing was due to heat)
 
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Savage Henry

Savage Henry

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@Quantrill have you seen the ferti-nitro used in hydroponic systems? Specifically, in my case, DTW in coir?
 
Spectre

Spectre

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My veg recipe w/ my 0.2EC water.

(3 - 1 - 2)

N03: 120
NH4: 29
P: 49
K: 96
Ca: 150
Mg: 40
S: 34

Calcium Nitrate 2.2g / gal
Magnesium Nitrate 1.0g / gal
Monoammonium Phosphate 0.7g / gal
Potassium Nitrate 0.2g / gal
Potassium Sulfate 0.5g / gal
 
Capulator

Capulator

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Hi all, I've been running the jacks for about a month and a half now and am seeing great results. I'm 6 weeks into flower at the moment and am considering what to use as a bloom booster. I have mkp and Map to fix up some Moab but am hesitant to start using it at the typical 1g/gal with the base cut in half.

How many ppms of P are ya'll running when boosting? I read somewhere that anything over 60 will inhibit the microherd.

Also it seems quite a few people just run the 321 all the way thru, I'm just a bit paranoid about potentially sacrificing some yield by not Giving a strong kick of pk.

I have used jacks blossom booster at .5 grams per gallon added to the normal 321 base with great results. FWIW.
 
guido420

guido420

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I have used jacks blossom booster at .5 grams per gallon added to the normal 321 base with great results. FWIW.

I just finished some testing on the Peter's 5-11-26 for a 321 mix. Be careful with the MKP and MAP.....
I dialed the 3-2-1 down t0 .75-.5-1 and started at half strength MAP/MKP then up to full strenght by end of third week of bloom. I didn't cut the strength and it showed. Easy flush anf fix. But the Girl Scout Cookies I am doing now...love it. Now at week 6 Day 1 of Flower they are just running the 3-2-1 with Cutting Edge Sour Dee for feed cycles. Green Planet Massive , Green Planet W-8, and CalMag for water cycle.

This was taken Week 5 Day 2.......

DSC09857
 
gingerhazed

gingerhazed

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I have used jacks blossom booster at .5 grams per gallon added to the normal 321 base with great results. FWIW.
Hey cap, I'm currently just adding my nutes to my res in order (hydrosol - calnit - Epsom) - curious where you add the boost when mixing your water?
 
buddahslave

buddahslave

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Has anyone ever tried Masterblend 4-18-38? If so, what was the results and at what ratios.
 
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FarmerX

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Wow! Where do I even begin with this thread.

First; Thank you @Capulator for your service to the community through generosity of time and knowledge.

I made an account on this forum just to post, I'm truly moved by the awesomeness of this thread.

I'm on page 33/77 and have 2 pages of detailed notes, haven't slept in two days. I've been running my canna nutrient profiles non-stop and adjusting ratios like a mad-man.

Thank you again to everyone who has contributed to this greatness. I will be posting more once I've caught up with the thread.
 
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FarmerX

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On page 43/77 now.

I'm not sure if it's been addressed, but I'm noticing a lot of people having trouble stabilizing/preserving their A+B solutions for extended periods(6+ days it seems).

I am not a chemist nor do I understand anything about the science related, but I found this video on you-tube of a gentlemen mixing a two part hydroponic solution.

He mentions use of 1.5 grams Sodium Benzoate per Gallon of solution as a preservative. Please watch the video closely and make sure you are careful when mixing these elements together, some are volatile/unsafe when misused.

The reading continues!
 
Capulator

Capulator

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Wow! Where do I even begin with this thread.

First; Thank you @Capulator for your service to the community through generosity of time and knowledge.

I made an account on this forum just to post, I'm truly moved by the awesomeness of this thread.

I'm on page 33/77 and have 2 pages of detailed notes, haven't slept in two days. I've been running my canna nutrient profiles non-stop and adjusting ratios like a mad-man.

Thank you again to everyone who has contributed to this greatness. I will be posting more once I've caught up with the thread.

You're welcome! I have not had any issues with destabilization after I mix stock tanks and they usually last me abotu a month for what it's worth.
 
NapalmD

NapalmD

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I have used jacks blossom booster at .5 grams per gallon added to the normal 321 base with great results. FWIW.
Been doing this for the last 2 runs since you told me about it with great results. Thanks again!
This time I started adding it in at week 2 instead of 3. In coco/perlite and added in growstones this time which are awesome so far.
Should I run the .5 of blossom booster till the last week of feeding? I've been cutting it out of the 321 ten days to two weeks before I flush/water only for 7 to 10 days. Also dropping the cal nit back to 1 gram at that time as well.

I was also thinking of adding herculean harvest to each gallon the last 3 weeks till chop at the recommendation of a friend who swears by it. Not sure if the plant would take up 2 different sources of calcium though.
 
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F

FarmerX

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Hello everyone,

I finished reading this thread shortly after my last post, but the research has continued on in other places.

@Capulator - I noticed at some point in time you had moved away from Peters/Jacks, and began formulating your own solutions with salts. I also noticed that you had returned to Jacks/Peters after a couple of runs that did not match the performance. I bring this up for two reasons; I have information(an email) that may be relevant, and I would also like to hear more about your experience and what noticeable differences in crop performance you were able to identify.

Following is an e-mail from a local agricultural supply company, I was speaking directly with the two members of their team members responsible for creating custom nutrient solutions:

"You are right in the nutrient guarantees of various companies formulating fertilizer's. By state standards we need to register a fertilizer if it is being openly marketed to more than one individual. With that the NPK values are as you noted on the common store bought fertilizers.
If you market the blend with seaweed or various micronutrients then they have to be claimed on the label, however a company can add various components and if carefully done mention these in their marketing material, and not list on the label. This is done all of the time.
We can also formulate a custom blend specifically for an individual grower and not make any claims on the label.
The state also requires minimum guarantees of certain nutrients if claimed. For example Magnesium needs a minimum guarantee of 0.5% to be listed, the same rules apply to all of the macro and micro nutrients in the blend. However, we can still add these and not claim them.
We do use a variety of items in our blends such as seaweed, phosphorus acid, worm casting extract and others for various results needed at the particular time for the stage of the plant and not list them."

Perhaps this was already common knowledge, but I thought it was worth noting; the companies can include quite a bit without full label disclosure.

I have been accumulating quite a bit of information through my research and networking, I will be posting some more in the future.

Thank you again for your time and knowledge.

----

@NapalmD - Are you familiar with the elemental ratios of your irrigation water for each week of the fruiting stage? I haven't bothered to run the schedules you are talking about through the calculators.

I believe Cap will have information you are looking for, but here's what I can offer:

For two years I've been operating a 2500 sq. foot perpetual flower canopy. The environmental parameters were 400 PPM Co2, 10-25 gallon pots, 85dF, 55-60% RH, 2-3 feedings per day, 3-5 month vegetative stage(5'x5'x10' plants).

A perlite mix doesn't hurt anything at all, but if you time your irrigation cycles and manage your root zone properly, pure coco does the trick everytime-it has for me.

On my 8 week strains, I run the same elemental ratio for the first 5-1/2 to 6 weeks of flower, and then I transition to a low nitrogen bulking feed for 10-12 days, and flush with pH'd water for two or three days.

Week 1 - 6 : 37N-40P-50k-36Ca-25mg-17Su-5Sil (300-350PPM / 5.8 pH)
Day 40/45 - 57 : 10N-115P-150K-17mg-23Su-2.5Sil (300-350PPM / 5.7 pH)
Day 57 - Harvest : Plain water flush (pH 5.8)
Of 23 strains, only one has shown a significant desire for more or less of any element(our Girl Scout a cookies cut is the hungriest plant I've ever seen).

I've recently been experimenting with a couple different ratios for weeks 1-6:
21N-19P-36K-13.5ca-19mg-17Su-5sil(300-350PPM / 5.8 pH) ~ Seeing some general defficiencies across various cultivars with this ratio.
101N-68P-131K-50Ca-55Mg-17S-0.76Fe-5sil(650-670PPM) ~ I'm actually running this on 4 plants flowering plants in the 3-5 week fruiting stage; two different versions of Cookies(indica dominants; tend to be heavier feeders IMO), right next to two identical groups being fed my two other formulas. This appears to be the healthiest set in both cases.

1.All of my ratios are achieved using a variety of "cannabis" nutrients, but I dominantly use the canna line, this means that although the elemental ratios are provided it does not account for the varying levels of potential additives that are not included on the company's labeling; botanical extracts, auxins, PGR, humus, etc.
2. PPM calculated on a x500 scale.

There are studies suggesting that as Phosphorous PPM rise, most microbial/bacterial activity and/or presence is reduced or inhibited, but I've never had an issue running over the 40-50PPM threshold. I can't recall if the source of phosphorous was mentioned in these studies, but that's a potentially critical variable when discussing the efficacy and concentration of phosphorous. There may even be an argument that what's good for a specific cultivar may not be good for the microbes/bacterias, and perhaps hydroponic nutrient companies purposefully provide higher phosphorous solutions to encourage a sterile root area for customers using inert mediums.

I imagine you may be wondering what relevance all of this information I've provided has to your post; its about that 7-10 day flush, your drop in bloom booster 2 weeks from chop, and potential swing in osmotic pressure at the root zone.
I would suggest that if you are dropping the nitrogen PPM significantly(essentially only allowing what is necessary to be present) in the final 10-14 days of a plants life, you do not need to run such a large flush or cut back on the bloom booster unless the plants are showing signs of overfertilization(burnt tips or lockouts created by specific elemental over-concentration). Also, many don't realize that the root zone responds too a lot of variables in different ways, well beyond the commonly understood overwatering, under watering, overfertilization, under fertilization, temperature fluctuation, there is also osmotic pressure fluctuation; a sudden drop or increase in EC/PPM can be stressful to the roots and will affect it's uptake in some manner.

Finally: I've never flushed more than 4 days, and if I ever felt the need to flush for more than three days in coco to achieve a great smoke, I assume that the cultivar in question was over fed in some fashion.

Edit: In terms of varying calcium and general element sources, I believe that a variety is not harmful. As you continue to use different source, you will find one or two products that perform the best, or good enough for your needs-stick to that one or two. I say this because I believe the purity and size of suspended element is relevant to the plants ability to uptake and use said element in an effecient manner, and because the more you add and have variables in your line up, the more stress you have when something isn't going right.

Regardless of what I say, there are thousands of different ratios and techniques that work; find something that you enjoy!

Cheers!

X
 
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buddahslave

buddahslave

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I have used jacks blossom booster at .5 grams per gallon added to the normal 321 base with great results. FWIW.
Nitrogen seem extremely high at this ratio. What medium are you using? How long is your flush? I guess this would be similar to house and gardens formula.
 
Capulator

Capulator

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@FarmerX I currently run a mix of raw salts and organic dry amendment. PLease post a pic of your 10' tall plants. Would love to see them!

And yes guaranteed analysis is kind of hokey pokey when it comes to what you are required to list. It is known.

Some microbe populations will deteriorate when subjected to high P environments (>50ppm). Generally soil solutions have only 5ppm of P available at any given time, so a ton of P is kind of useless. Best thing to do is light feedings several times a day. Most people feed too much. Curious what cut of cookies you have... GSC (forum cut) is a notoriously light feeder but does appreciate more P and a little less light.. but that is just my experience with her (about 3 years now).
 
Capulator

Capulator

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Nitrogen seem extremely high at this ratio. What medium are you using? How long is your flush? I guess this would be similar to house and gardens formula.

N will be at 135 ppm. I always cut back CaNO3 at week 6 by 20% and then usually a week flush. @NapalmD
 
Capulator

Capulator

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Also worth mentioning is adding around .2 Cacl2 to increase Ca by 20ppm, getting it closer to a 1:1 N:Ca ratio could be a good idea.
 
buddahslave

buddahslave

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N will be at 135 ppm. I always cut back CaNO3 at week 6 by 20% and then usually a week flush. @NapalmD
Understood! What are your thoughts on the magic number floating around the internet of a 75% reduction in CaNO3 and .5 gram per gallon of bloom booster. I have been under the impression that CaCl2 was not readily available to the plants. I don't have a lot of experience mixing my own nutes so it has made me quite curious. Thanks
 
F

FarmerX

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I'm on my old mobile right now, I broke my camera/phone a few weeks ago. Here are some pictures of the first plants in the flower room at the beginning of the operation. At the time of these photos I was running a different formula, brand of fertilizers and hadn't begun using RO water yet.


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