Coco Grow.....help....me

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Soulcalsd

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I suspect it had something to do w spraying em....i think they'll grow out of it
Things def seem to be getting worse in veggie town. Usually have roots sticking out bottom of pots and now I can't find any. They perked up few days ago after I let pots get lighter , but now I dunno...
 
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Soulcalsd

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Could it be left over hard water minerals blocking potassium ...they do look really dark. But not really nitro dark .
 
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Soulcalsd

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I've only sprayed em like 3 times and they looked better day after. I feel like it started as a ph problem and I feed them proper everyday for a week and they were getting better. Then I let them get a bit dryer about 50% and they perked up. I think that's when I should have started hitting them everyday again....
 
Unit541

Unit541

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Here's something else to think about. You mention that they "perked up" when you let them dry out a little. This often leads to the idea that they're too soggy, overwatered, drowning... Often leading to reduced watering. roots dry out and get some air, plant perks up. Hooray. Or sometimes not. Usually, these "perk ups" are rather temporary, as allowing your coco to get too dry brings it's own set of issues.

Instead, it's more commonly effective to water more frequently to resolve these types of problems in coco. Coco is not soil, and can't be treated as such. It's a hydroponic medium through and through, and you're plants get everything they need, including oxygen, delivered by your nutrient solution. If a plant isn't developed enough for the pot, or isn't uptaking as quickly as it should, the moisture in your medium becomes depleted of oxygen. You can wait for the medium to dry enough for some fresh air to get to the roots, at which point you get that "perk up". You've also now got dried, mostly insoluble nutes left in your coco. The nutrient profile of the next feeding is shot to hell by this, as is the PH in the root zone. Now the plants getting watered again, but again it's screaming "WTF!?".

Or, you can just feed on a schedule (rather arbitrary), never allowing even the top to dry out, and avoid the above. My pump runs every 2 hours.

Someone else on this site said it best about coco:
"If you think it's dry, water it. If you think it's wet, water it".
 
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Soulcalsd

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Thanks fellas those were both very helpful posts and I will read that article. I guess thinking back on my habits I change things to quick instead of riding out a new change to see if it works. Canna says to let pots get lighter, while many people say to water everyday. This has me bouncing around trying many things , but sticking with none. If something looks off after a couple days of trying a different nute strength or watering method I'm to quick to write it off as not the solution I need. Do you guys agree with cutting down to say 4ml a n b and moving from there? Plus watering daily.
 
justiceman

justiceman

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Consistency is indeed key. Keep it simple.

I'm not familiar with what 4ml each of A and B comes out to in terms of EC, but by the looks of things the strength you are currently feeding seems like just a little bit too much but that could be because of the nutrient build up from letting them dry out. I'd probably back off on strength a bit but not too much. I'd say generally somewhere between 400-600ppm(0.8-1.2EC) is a good ballpark figure to start.

I just read back on the page about the spray. In my experience sprays have always proven to give more trouble than they are worth.... Especially when mixing multiple products together. If you stop spraying that is one less variable to worry about. Just my 2 cents on that.
 
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Soulcalsd

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Consistency is indeed key. Keep it simple.

I'm not familiar with what 4ml each of A and B comes out to in terms of EC, but by the looks of things the strength you are currently feeding seems like just a little bit too much but that could be because of the nutrient build up from letting them dry out. I'd probably back off on strength a bit but not too much. I'd say generally somewhere between 400-600ppm(0.8-1.2EC) is a good ballpark figure to start.

I just read back on the page about the spray. In my experience sprays have always proven to give more trouble than they are worth.... Especially when mixing multiple products together. If you stop spraying that is one less variable to worry about. Just my 2 cents on that.
Well said and thank you for your time and wisdom. Yea 4ml would be on the low end of that range around 400ppm. I do think it's more of an imbalance. I'm still confused with Calmag. Most say they bring there RO to 150-200 ppm then add base, others use as needed or use tap which isn't an option for me at 439 ppm. I read that in case of cal or mag short it's best to just up the base nutes , especially being a noob to maintain a proper nute ratio. With canna coco being pre buffered, I would think calmag supplementation wouldn't be needed.
 
justiceman

justiceman

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Well said and thank you for your time and wisdom. Yea 4ml would be on the low end of that range around 400ppm. I do think it's more of an imbalance. I'm still confused with Calmag. Most say they bring there RO to 150-200 ppm then add base, others use as needed or use tap which isn't an option for me at 439 ppm. I read that in case of cal or mag short it's best to just up the base nutes , especially being a noob to maintain a proper nute ratio. With canna coco being pre buffered, I would think calmag supplementation wouldn't be needed.

Ideally you sholdn't need calmag if your base nutrient is complete and I'm almost positive that Canna A/B is complete.

I too have tap water that can at times get up to the 400ppm range. It's workable but I always cut it with R/O to 100-150ppm for my coco grows but not because I need calmag for my plants. I have tried using my base nutrient with R/O and it does work but the pH in my rez would drift. After I started cutting R/O and tap it helped stabilized my rez pH with the base that I use. The calcium and magnesium in tap water is different(calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate) and it has more of a relation on pH rather than being available to the plants.

Some base nutrients work well with pure R/O and others do not do as well. It all depends on what's inside.
 
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Soulcalsd

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I mentioned that my ph keeps rising, would you recommend adding back just a half gal to a Gal of tap to help with fluctuating? Or should I just stay on track with watering everyday and see if it works itself out. I'm running DTW also I add about 15ml of Zeus juice humid,Ful acid which would help I assume if I added back some tap. I kind of feel like that's when the ph issues started when was was doing half and half tap ro, could be wrong .
 
justiceman

justiceman

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I mentioned that my ph keeps rising, would you recommend adding back just a half gal to a Gal of tap to help with fluctuating? Or should I just stay on track with watering everyday and see if it works itself out. I'm running DTW also I add about 15ml of Zeus juice humid,Ful acid which would help I assume if I added back some tap. I kind of feel like that's when the ph issues started when was was doing half and half tap ro, could be wrong .
I would urge you to drop Zeus Juice. Humic acid causes more harm than good in hydro and is better suited in organics IMO. I'd wager it's affecting the pH of your coco. You really only need Canna A/B and maybe PK to be successful. It's best to limit variables so I would recommend staying on track with just r/o and Canna A/B for now. Then go from there. The less stuff in the mix the easier it is to figure out what's going on.
 
OldManRiver

OldManRiver

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IIt's best to limit variables so I would recommend staying on track with just r/o and Canna A/B for now. Then go from there. The less stuff in the mix the easier it is to figure out what's going on.

I agree heartily. The link I posted above contains a breakdown of the nutes, and they look pretty complete to me. Less is often more.
 
MidwestToker

MidwestToker

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Why are you chasing pH run-off in coir ? Natural pH of coir is around 6.2- 6.4 and the media always tries to correct its self to its natural pH . Every feed corrects the pH balance.
 
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Soulcalsd

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Why are you chasing pH run-off in coir ? Natural pH of coir is around 6.2- 6.4 and the media always tries to correct its self to its natural pH . Every feed corrects the pH balance.
This was with a slurry test, but your right I think it will be fine with consistent feeds.
 
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Soulcalsd

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Should I drop cannazyme also? I feed this morning at 5.8 ph with 4ml canna a and b. Came out to around 350 ppm. No rhziotonic, seaweed, or cannazyme, hydroguard.
 
justiceman

justiceman

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That is up to you. It wont hurt since it was designed to be used with canna. I know a lot of people like using enzymes to break down old roots or as a preventative "cleaner" of sorts, but I think it's a bit odd considering the short life cycle of cannabis. I feel that if somebody is already dealing with dead and old roots then something about the grow isn't quite right and adding an enzyme won't fix it. Sound watering practices are what ensure healthy roots all the way through.
 
OldManRiver

OldManRiver

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Should I drop cannazyme also? I feed this morning at 5.8 ph with 4ml canna a and b. Came out to around 350 ppm. No rhziotonic, seaweed, or cannazyme, hydroguard.
My recommendation is just use the A and B until you get the plants growing well. Your ppm is quite safe, and can probably be increased. Canna recommends 15ml to the gallon on their page, its not clear if that's 15 ml each or total. Given that, I'd got to 10 ml/gal and try that for a week. That said, my experience is in hydro, not coir, and I will readily defer to anyone with more direct experience.
 
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Soulcalsd

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Thanks for the input fellas. Yea I think that should be just fine for this stage in veg canna schedule says 7.5 ml each but I've read many use 10-13ml all the way through. Thanks you everyone.
 
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