Coco Seedling Issue

[Aheadatime]

Hey all. Got some apparent calcium or magnesium deficiency going on, and I'm not experienced enough to tell exactly what it is.

Advanced nutes sensi coco AB.
Canna brick coco expanded and flushed to 400 ppm, 6.0 pH.
75 Degrees F, 52% humidity.
Paper tower germ method, transplanted into solo cups, plants cracked the coco 14 days ago.

They were fed 200 ppm AB for the first few days until I noticed these spots showing up, so I've slowly upped their feed, to where I'm now at which is 150ppm Calmag and 300ppm AB. They're not showing signs of burn, runoff is the same as the nutes going in. pH going in 6.0, pH coming out 6.1. No mites through scope or under the leaves. No temp/humidity fluctuations at night. 24/7 600 MH 40 inches above canopy. Good airflow. Happening to two of two strains.

I'ved attached pictures titled L1 through L4, and P1 through P4. 'L' stands for leaf, while 'P' stands for plant. So L1 is a picture of a leaf, while P1 is a picture of L1's whole plant view. Any help appreciated guys.

 

[stonestacker]

Looks like mights to me.
Have you scoped for bugs with a 60 x or stronger?

 

[Enforcer]

Looks like a PH issue to me. If you’re correcting your PH...stop. With AN PH perfect line, if you adjust the PH you mess with the chelates and surfactants that are designed to feed the plant between a PH of 4-8. If you’re anywhere in that range, you’re good. I know it sounds crazy, but call the number on the bottle and they’ll confirm what I’m telling you. I don’t feel comfortable “throwing away my meter” so I switched lines for my next run. But as soon as I stopped PH adjusting my solution while using the PH perfect line, the leaf symptoms stopped.

 

[G gnome]

Looks like mights to me.
Have you scoped for bugs with a 60 x or stronger?

Not mites

 

[Louisjr]

For my girls in coco I get my ph to 5.8 every time. I even had it at 5.6 which never showed a problem but I always always always keep it at 5.8 ph....... I was told anything higher than that you will have problems. I use canna start For my seedlings, I haven’t started using the a b yet.

 

[Aheadatime]

Looks like mights to me.
Have you scoped for bugs with a 60 x or stronger?

I've scoped with a 60x. I've also battled spider mites before (and won :)). The symptoms in this case are too uniform to be mites. Mites just sporadically feed all over a leaf or set of leaves, making the leaf look 'dusted' with damage. This damage is located near the main vein, and sits in between the smaller veins uniformly. It also effects the older leaves first on every plant.

Looks like a PH issue to me. If you’re correcting your PH...stop. With AN PH perfect line, if you adjust the PH you mess with the chelates and surfactants that are designed to feed the plant between a PH of 4-8. If you’re anywhere in that range, you’re good. I know it sounds crazy, but call the number on the bottle and they’ll confirm what I’m telling you. I don’t feel comfortable “throwing away my meter” so I switched lines for my next run. But as soon as I stopped PH adjusting my solution while using the PH perfect line, the leaf symptoms stopped.

I've been using AN perfect line for 3 grows now, and have always pHed with no side effects. I use their pH down, which is apparently composed of 'available' phosphorus, despite it being phosphoric acid. I can't see how that'd mess anything up. If the nutes are available from 4-8pH, then how could setting the pH at 6 screw everything up?

 

[Enforcer]

I've scoped with a 60x. I've also battled spider mites before (and won :)). The symptoms in this case are too uniform to be mites. Mites just sporadically feed all over a leaf or set of leaves, making the leaf look 'dusted' with damage. This damage is located near the main vein, and sits in between the smaller veins uniformly. It also effects the older leaves first on every plant.



I've been using AN perfect line for 3 grows now, and have always pHed with no side effects. I use their pH down, which is apparently composed of 'available' phosphorus, despite it being phosphoric acid. I can't see how that'd mess anything up. If the nutes are available from 4-8pH, then how could setting the pH at 6 screw everything up?

Because you are altering the chemistry of the solution. Again, I know it sounds crazy. But call the growers help line and they can explain it to you better.

I had the same issue. A grower here told me the same thing. I was just as skeptical as you are, but I called the number anyway. And that’s what they told me. I’m not saying that is definitely what you have going on, but it’s a good possibility.

 

[Jack og]

How are the roots looking? Cup grow may have run its course and she maybe drowning? Larger pots now maybe, I don’t use that line on nutes so no comments on that. But every cup crack I did, within a few weeks I’ve seen that speckling look and have always seen that roots are rotting. It’s why I have Transitioned away from cups, crack in rock wool and into 3 gals till final re-pot

 

[Aheadatime]

How are the roots looking? Cup grow may have run its course and she maybe drowning? Larger pots now maybe, I don’t use that line on nutes so no comments on that. But every cup crack I did, within a few weeks I’ve seen that speckling look and have always seen that roots are rotting. It’s why I have Transitioned away from cups, crack in rock wool and into 3 gals till final re-pot

I see some white shoots peeping out the bottom of some of the cups, but with most of them it's still just coco. I'm afraid to flip em and look until the roots are more pronounced, as I don't want the coco just crumbling out and the plant slipping out. I've never had an issue in cups in this short of a timespan. They tend to complain when left in there for long after being rootbound, for sure, but not this quickly.

 

[Aheadatime]

Because you are altering the chemistry of the solution. Again, I know it sounds crazy. But call the growers help line and they can explain it to you better.

I had the same issue. A grower here told me the same thing. I was just as skeptical as you are, but I called the number anyway. And that’s what they told me. I’m not saying that is definitely what you have going on, but it’s a good possibility.

I'll try it later tonight when I water again. Doesn't feel right or seem right, but I suppose I can't knock it until I try it. Experience is always the best teacher.

 

[Greenshark]

Looks like a ph fluctuation like previously mentioned.

 

[justiceman]

This looks mostly like accumulative nutrient burn to me. Probably a bit of pH though as a result. Especially the one that is getting really dark and twisting hard. Here's my 2 cents behind why i think it's nutrient burn.

• The pre buffered canna coco(already perfect) was flushed with 400ppm(0.8EC) of either calmag or AB. It probably didn't rinse all of the factory added calmag so who knows what the the mediums EC actually was at the start.
  
• 150ppm of calmag and 300ppm of AB is almost 1.0EC That's pretty much the strength I'm feeding mid level veg plants not seedlings in coco.
  
• Sensi coco A/B should be a complete nutrient since it's designed for coco. No extra calmag should be necessary
• Why buy the pH perfect when you are going to adjust pH anyway?

Here's what I would do. I'd cut out the calmag, and I would go back to feeding 200-250ppm(0.4-0.5EC) of only AB once a day to runoff and go from there.