Defoamers?

[twerkle]

True, and it would probably replace Dripclean/Carefree. No reason I can't irrigate one and add the other with the tea I suppose; after all, this is going to last a long time unless I consume it.

What rate do you use it at?

For the whey i use .5g /gallon

 

[bibbles]

Thanks, and the LG powder?

 

[twerkle]

Thanks, and the LG powder?

mbferts says .1g to .25gs a gallon but it really varies. biggest mistake i made when using it was not cutting nutes back. I usually run .38/gallon which is about 100ppm but I also run 20-30% less EC than feed schedule recommends esp if you are in Hydro. In my RDWC system if I never have to run over 800ppm cause fulvic/aminos/calcium are uptaking so efficently.

 

[twerkle]

.25g a gallon would be ~50ppm.
.1g a gallon would be in the teens.

Also since we been on powders you need tyo check out Chitosan Oligosachirrde, its in a TON of bio stims on the markets. I used to use Bud Factor X cost me about $300 a grow, replaced with Chitosan powder from China and some other stuff and now $300 last me 3 grows.

 

[PharmHand]

.25g a gallon would be ~50ppm.
.1g a gallon would be in the teens.

Also since we been on powders you need tyo check out Chitosan Oligosachirrde, its in a TON of bio stims on the markets. I used to use Bud Factor X cost me about $300 a grow, replaced with Chitosan powder from China and some other stuff and now $300 last me 3 grows.

Which chitosan product are you running? Does it come soluble? BFX is so dam expensive but I can't find a decent replacement. Thanks

 

[twerkle]

I buy chitosan oligosaccharide by the Kilo from china. 1000 dalton. I mix it in a protien shaker with some rez water before i mix it in the rez. Desolves with just a few shakes.

 

[bibbles]

I'll give it a go at 0.25g/gal and adjust from there, thanks! :D

As for Bud Factor X, have you tried foliar feeding it? Same 2ml/l, AN even use to advertise using it this way until three weeks before harvest; in my experience you get pretty much the same results as root feeding it (the same can be said about CannaBoost). I know a lot of people don't like foliar feeding this far out, but I've never had problems doing so. :)

 

[twerkle]

I'll give it a go at 0.25g/gal and adjust from there, thanks! :D

As for Bud Factor X, have you tried foliar feeding it? Same 2ml/l, AN even use to advertise using it this way until three weeks before harvest; in my experience you get pretty much the same results as root feeding it (the same can be said about CannaBoost). I know a lot of people don't like foliar feeding this far out, but I've never had problems doing so. :)

AN Bud Factor X is Chitosan and not Chitosan oligosaccharide powder (COP from here on out). Chitosan is a way heavier molecule and won't be nearly as effective as a foliar. The COP I use is a dalton of less than 1500 which is insanely light, allowing me to foliar spray. You can spray up to week 6 as long as used correctly and not mixed with any oils. I usually foliar feed COP 3 times 10 days apart starting last week in veg up to week 3 flower. Then I feed COP as root drench with nutes every feeding till week 6. If you need COP let me know I am ordering more from my plug in China soon. I will gladly sell you some for a little bit above cost for my time. Msg me and I'll send you my IG so you can check if I'm legit.

I feed at .5-1g gallon. So a few grams can foliar spray lots of plants but gets a little more expensive when you drench. I feed 100 gallons a week so thats 50-100grams a week, about 300-600 grams a grow. .5kg cost ~$100 covers 24plants (6 light room) which is about ~$0.20/gallon compared to Bud Factor X 8ml/gallon. Cheapest I found BFX was $187 for 4L which is $0.36 a gallon of feed. So its already half the cost just comparing that BUUUUT BFX is only 33% Chitson, rest is; water, rooting hormone made from willow tips IAA or IBA?, and a surfacant. So technically out the 8ml less than 4ml is Chitosan, which is less than .5g/gallon. Also Chitosan =/= COP. COP is much more avail to the plant, like 100X more avail to the plant. BTW I'm not a scientist or anything, totally self taught so take everything I saw with caution and do your own research.

 

[bibbles]

I recall reading that BFX also contains harpin proline, salicylic acid, and B1? Something about it being a replacement for Scorpion Juice and something else? A paint sprayer means a liter leaves four lights dripping, so it's been a while since I picked up this 250ml bottle, and there could totally be new information, or perhaps just fewer rumors? I foliar about twice a week 1-6 (of 9).

Other than that I guess I've cut my foliars back to tea, Facilitor + MassBoost, CA-25, and Spray-n-grow. Liquid Light/Optic was neat, but I never felt compelled to buy more, while Boost was replaced by V&H to the roots. Now that I've got AgSil I may decide not to buy more Aptus, but the real key for me was the interaction of borax with the calcium chloride in CA-25.

https://www.researchgate.net/public..._of_tomato_Lycopersicon_esculentum_Mill_fruit

Part of me suspects the surfactant in CA-25 is borax, but that's not something anyone seems to want to talk about; it's tria, no thought allowed! Haha

 

[bibbles]

Per gallon:
10ml Canna A+B
7.5ml MBF Late Bloom
1.85ml MBF V&H
0.5g AgSil
0.25g L-Glycine Powder

My humidity needs a bit of tweaking before the next cycle, and I think I may drop the bloom nutrients to 5ml/gal as I'm seeing a touch of burnt tips, but otherwise things are looking fantastic! Not sure if there's interest, but I think I'll give the online grow journal thing another try when the time comes. :)

 

[bibbles]

mbferts says .1g to .25gs a gallon but it really varies. biggest mistake i made when using it was not cutting nutes back. I usually run .38/gallon which is about 100ppm but I also run 20-30% less EC than feed schedule recommends esp if you are in Hydro. In my RDWC system if I never have to run over 800ppm cause fulvic/aminos/calcium are uptaking so efficently.

This was such a winner; additive, but additionally replaces Dripclean, et al.

Thank you.

 

[Billy Jones]

Read this and joined forum to respond – Billy here.

Actually excessive protein in the water is your culprit my man. Foam on surface water indicates a water quality problem and if you don’t fix it, it will soon be stinking up the whole house.

Foam is the result of protein-based waste (like dead and decaying micro-organisms, bio matter) coating small air bubbles, which causes them to stick together and form a foam. Saltwater aquariums utilize protein skimmers to remove these proteins from the water. ... If protein foam is present, it is an indication that the tank needs a good cleaning. https://www.thesprucepets.com/foam-on-aquarium-water-1381213

Now you know what causes your foam and how to fix your foam problems.

Anti-foaming agents are detergents. Detergents alter the surface tension of the foam bubbles, cause the bubbles to pop and eliminates the foam bubbles. Anti-foaming agents do not fix your bad water quality, these agents simply hide your bad water quality… “out of sight-out of mind.”

If you are a conservative penny-pincher consider buying and using powdered Nestle Coffee-Mate which is an artificial coffee creamer. It’s cheap, non-toxic and works real well.

 

[sixstring]

so coffee mate in your res ? welcome new member :cool:

 

[Billy Jones]

so coffee mate in your res ? welcome new member :cool:

Yep, coffee mate... thanks for the welcome.

 

[bibbles]

Hydrolyzed whey is literally just a bunch of protein, so the water quality, as you put it, was intentional and desired, just momentarily misunderstood. Still, it's nice to know you agree! :3