Dewaxing Sleeve Soak Times & Ball Valve Issue(s)...

[Graywolf]

Basically just went back to what I know today + dewaxing sleeve and pump assist w/recovery(which took longer than me labouring on other unit).

Still can't figure out how to run active with my machine, still can't figure out why the ball valve is valuable if no one really uses them or why late into wash/recovery I can still see LPG flowing through Sleeve out of the blue.

So strange.

And greywolf, by keeping the ball valve open does this not allow whatever fats/lipids that have coagulated in tune to end up getting back into Colomn?

Your machine is set up for passive operation and doesn't have the required connections for active. You will need to replace the concentric reducer at the bottom with one having a flood connection to bottom flood.

If you hooked the top of the column to the tank liquid valve, you could top flood and recover the way you have it hooked up.

The ball valve goes under the injection tee, so that you can bottom flood when closed.

The columns are typically drained through a filter to catch the fats and lipids. The LPG left behind is soaked into the material and leaves everything behind when vacuumed out.

 

[Graywolf]

PS: If you top flood only, you still need a vent to the top of the column, referenced to the collection pot, for the column to drain properly. A column of liquid open at the bottom and closed at the top, has no way to equalize pressure.

 

[Shatterproof]

Your machine is set up for passive operation and doesn't have the required connections for active. You will need to replace the concentric reducer at the bottom with one having a flood connection to bottom flood.

If you hooked the top of the column to the tank liquid valve, you could top flood and recover the way you have it hooked up.

Interesting... would hooking the top column via tee already in place on my machine to liquid valve not make it active?

The ball valve goes under the injection tee, so that you can bottom flood when closed.

Wild, will have to look at this type of alignment to better wrap my head around. Good stuff.

The columns are typically drained through a filter to catch the fats and lipids. The LPG left behind is soaked into the material and leaves everything behind when vacuumed out.

Had been using a larger mesh screen initially then switched to that + a coffee filter on top, now I'm using a 130 micron screen. Is this sufficient?

 

[Shatterproof]

Hey greywolf, a lot of the terminology of parts you use are still slightly foreign to me. Does the pharm have breakdowns on this language for me to learn from.

I want to learn.

 

[Shatterproof]

Ps here is one of the pours from last night, quite dark but thick.

Would running a properly assembled machine with dewaxing sleeve and ball valve help achieve a cleaner looking product?

 

[Graywolf]

Interesting... would hooking the top column via tee already in place on my machine to liquid valve not make it active?



Wild, will have to look at this type of alignment to better wrap my head around. Good stuff.



Had been using a larger mesh screen initially then switched to that + a coffee filter on top, now I'm using a 130 micron screen. Is this sufficient?

Suggest you post a schematic of the plumbing you are proposing.

I prefer to use a 1 micron sock filter for wax removal. 130 micron is way too coarse.

 

[Graywolf]

Hey greywolf, a lot of the terminology of parts you use are still slightly foreign to me. Does the pharm have breakdowns on this language for me to learn from.

I want to learn.

No but if you ask I will explain what it means.

 

[Graywolf]

Ps here is one of the pours from last night, quite dark but thick.

Would running a properly assembled machine with dewaxing sleeve and ball valve help achieve a cleaner looking product?

Possibly make it lighter in color, with less plant waxes.

 

[Shatterproof]

Suggest you post a schematic of the plumbing you are proposing.

I prefer to use a 1 micron sock filter for wax removal. 130 micron is way too coarse.

Just looked sock filters up, these are interesting.

More surface area makes them quite palatable I'm guessing, easier to pull LPG through?

 

[Graywolf]

Just looked sock filters up, these are interesting.

More surface area makes them quite palatable I'm guessing, easier to pull LPG through?

Yes, check Duda Diesel biodiesel filters.

 

[Shatterproof]

Great resource.

Butane is an organic solvent correct? Which media would you recommend greywolf?

Also, are these filters reusable or one and done?

Would my machine accept this type of filter within its design, and if so what is the name of the reducer that sits under my ball valve. I usually put one more passable screen filter above valve and one finer one underneath(130micron).

Could I place this type of sock filter in that reducer underneath ball valve?

 

[Graywolf]

Great resource.

Butane is an organic solvent correct? Which media would you recommend greywolf?

Also, are these filters reusable or one and done?

Would my machine accept this type of filter within its design, and if so what is the name of the reducer that sits under my ball valve. I usually put one more passable screen filter above valve and one finer one underneath(130micron).

Could I place this type of sock filter in that reducer underneath ball valve?

Yes, butane consists of carbon and hydrogen, so is organic.

You can wash sock filters a few times and reuse.

The sock filter holder typically has a sanitary triclamp connection at each end. Check out Sweetleaf.

 

[Shatterproof]

Looking around but not quite able to determine which one is applicable to me, the material tubes on my extractors are 3"... spoke to a place locally today that does stock 2.5 micron filter bags but I was unable to figure out how to secure them as he said they were all built for things larger than 3".

Duda diesel has a bunch of choices but again I'm unsure as to which one is right for me.

Also, would this bag, or sock, filter sit here:

 

[Shatterproof]

Ps: I am having difficulty locating the correct sweat leaf site, also... is this the corect filter section on Duda's site:

https://www.dudadiesel.com/search.php?query=+filter++bag&i=filterbags

 

[Dirte Bag]

I am a little confused. This is typical. I have a small top fill (1.5" x 12") dewaxing column on a 6 x 6 collection vessel with a ball valve between. I saw that GW doesn't soak, but wonder why? It's recommended in the manual from BVV.
If I were to soak, how long would I, and what would it accomplish?
Is the proper way to close the ball valve, fill the column, close top valve, soak, dump, repeat? If so, how do you know when the column is full?


The can of worms has been opened.

 

[Dirte Bag]

PS: If you top flood only, you still need a vent to the top of the column, referenced to the collection pot, for the column to drain properly. A column of liquid open at the bottom and closed at the top, has no way to equalize pressure.

If the column is near 0 psi and the collection vessel is - 30, won't what is in the column move to the collection vessel to equalize pressure?

 

[Graywolf]

Basically just went back to what I know today + dewaxing sleeve and pump assist w/recovery(which took longer than me labouring on other unit).

Still can't figure out how to run active with my machine, still can't figure out why the ball valve is valuable if no one really uses them or why late into wash/recovery I can still see LPG flowing through Sleeve out of the blue.

So strange.

And greywolf, by keeping the ball valve open does this not allow whatever fats/lipids that have coagulated in tune to end up getting back into Colomn?

Recovery with a pump just involves sticking a pump in the line between the collection tank and the LPG storage tank. It just speeds things up, runs a colder collection tank, and can pull a deeper vacuum, so less LPG is lost in the cycle.

Starting out, the ball valve isolates the collection tank from the columns, so you can do things like bottom flood, as well as hold the solution in the dewax column long enough to precipitate out the waxes.

The evaporating LPG in the filter and plant material drops the temperature to below freezing, so the fats/lip are solids and stay put. They are also a solid at room temperature.

 

[Graywolf]

If the column is near 0 psi and the collection vessel is - 30, won't what is in the column move to the collection vessel to equalize pressure?

Briefly. As soon as the liquid LPG hits the vacuum, it will vaporize and you will lose that vacuum to LPG vapor.

 

[Graywolf]

I am a little confused. This is typical. I have a small top fill (1.5" x 12") dewaxing column on a 6 x 6 collection vessel with a ball valve between. I saw that GW doesn't soak, but wonder why? It's recommended in the manual from BVV.
If I were to soak, how long would I, and what would it accomplish?
Is the proper way to close the ball valve, fill the column, close top valve, soak, dump, repeat? If so, how do you know when the column is full?


The can of worms has been opened.

The compounds that we covet are on the outside of the plant in the trichomes. There is nothing on the inside of the plant that we want, nor do we want the protective wax coating on the outside.

When a solvent comes in contact with a solute, the 100% solute starts to dissolve in the 100% solvent, but shortly, unless that solute/solvent interface is constantly replenished, the solute at the interface is diluted to less than 100% and the similarly diluted solvent is at its saturation point and so the reaction grinds to a halt. To keep it efficiently operating, the solvent/solute interface needs to be constantly refreshed.

We freeze the material and subzero the solvent, so that any water locks up as ice, and to make all of the molecules less soluble. It also slows down the ability of the solvent to dissolve the molecules, so the easier to dissolve C-10 through C-22 molecules come off first, and we stop extracting before the C-30 start to dissolve and up start to come along for the ride.

If you freeze your material, switch to a 70/30 to 50/50% LPG mix between -30C and -50C, and stop in time, you will extract very little of the fats/lipids/waxes coating the leaves or from the inside of the plant, so there is typically no reason to subsequently inline dewax.

You are inline dewaxing, and you do need to soak during the dewax phase, assuming a dedicated dewax column.

 

[Graywolf]

I am a little confused. This is typical. I have a small top fill (1.5" x 12") dewaxing column on a 6 x 6 collection vessel with a ball valve between. I saw that GW doesn't soak, but wonder why? It's recommended in the manual from BVV.
If I were to soak, how long would I, and what would it accomplish?
Is the proper way to close the ball valve, fill the column, close top valve, soak, dump, repeat? If so, how do you know when the column is full?


The can of worms has been opened.

How you run the machine also depends on what end product you covet, and if you wish to do whole plant extraction, then I recommend closing your column dump valve and opening the top vent valve that returns to the lower tank. Flood from the bottom and if you place your hand on the top vent line, you will know precisely when the liquid LPG reaches it and starts to flow through, as it suddenly gets much colder.

If you want to soak, shut off the vent and flood valves and let it soak, but be mindful of temperature, as LPG mix pressures can rise high and fast when heated. See chart.

When you do open the valves again, open the vent valve first and slowly. I've blown column contents through the bottom screen by suddenly opening the dump valve under pressure.

As far as how long, you will have to experiment. I would start at the same soak time that we used to use with thermos extractions, which is 3 minutes. You can tell how successful you are by examining the spent material under a 100X loop.