Diagnosis, Please Help

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crimsonecho

crimsonecho

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just to make sure....flushing take only the salts or everything in the soil nutriments?
Flushing will get rid off the excess nutrients and whatever causes your ph to drop hopefully. You can always top dress or bottle feed after that.
 
Jack og

Jack og

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just to make sure....flushing take only the salts or everything in the soil nutriments?
Again before you do anything, let this media dry up, I mean dry, like 2-3 “ from top .
Then flush, with ph water around 6.5-6.8.
Flush till you get run off, then let dry
Flush again, each time noting what the run off ph is
Let dry in between, I’d suggest you remove said plant if possible to the outside , and do this there, as I suspect the fungal issues are vast, kelp feeding does this same thing to me, and I’ve stopped using kelp grow feed. I actually just use fish emulsion with some amendments.
But the goal is to get this thing dry and flushed, and flushing only removes salts. Your organic matter will stay intact.
Once this is in control then I’d consider changing the pot and adding more new soil. And rebuilding the macro/ micro herd.
 
E

extremis

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Again before you do anything, let this media dry up, I mean dry, like 2-3 “ from top .
Then flush, with ph water around 6.5-6.8.
Flush till you get run off, then let dry
Flush again, each time noting what the run off ph is
Let dry in between, I’d suggest you remove said plant if possible to the outside , and do this there, as I suspect the fungal issues are vast, kelp feeding does this same thing to me, and I’ve stopped using kelp grow feed. I actually just use fish emulsion with some amendments.
But the goal is to get this thing dry and flushed, and flushing only removes salts. Your organic matter will stay intact.
Once this is in control then I’d consider changing the pot and adding more new soil. And rebuilding the macro/ micro herd.

What wait, flushing only remove salts right, all the NPK remains there correct?
 
Jack og

Jack og

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What wait, flushing only remove salts right, all the NPK remains there correct?
To allow it to dry up and use up some salts and allow the plant to benefit from the flushing. You need to allow the dryup in between. This isn’t a magic over night fix but a week long endeavor to fix plant, or cut your losses and remove the plant and start over. Choice to wait it out is better.
The npk components to a certain extent should remain ; insoluble organic compounds are fixed to soil, however it will leech out persay. Goal is to fix the issue and one can always add the npk back in organic form from liquid supplements.
 
E

extremis

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To allow it to dry up and few salts and allow the plant to benefit from the flushing. You need to allow the dryup in between. This isn’t a magic over night fix but a week long endeavor to fix plant, or cut your losses and remove the plant and start over. Choice to wait it out is better.


My question is...when you are flushing with a solution, it ONLY remove the salts? NOT the NPK? nutriments
 
Jack og

Jack og

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My question is...when you are flushing with a solution, it ONLY remove the salts? NOT the NPK? nutriments
Removes all indiscriminately, you will need to start back up once it’s stable via 1/3 recommend feed regiment, it will set that plant back say a week to week an a half back from where it was. As it it will need to recover
 
Jack og

Jack og

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Removes all indiscriminately, you will need to start back up once it’s stable via 1/3 recommend feed regiment, it will set that plant back say a week to week an a half back from where it was. As it it will need to recover
Flushing is with plain ph controlled water only. No solution or feed added
 
Jack og

Jack og

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Always check conditions off the top of the soil. If it’s green with algae or mossy looking, chances are something is off. Usually it’s always from over watering , lack of airflow and light penetration. Also usually it’s already locked out and the micro organisms are off balance, fungal and macro/ micro bacteria battle it off and usually fungal matters win, killing off the beneficial macro life and stagnation at the root zone is only symptomatic at leaf zone but by that time the damage is extensive and measure like partial repotting is required because It’s near impossible to Regain the balance . Flushing is helping the root zone clear itself, then drying allows the roots to breathe as it’s being suffocated. Then partial removal of plant and repotting into new media is recommended. Happens to the best of us bro. Heck we almost always have a few plants die in commercial grows with the b st automation , nothing is better then the human eye and hand on the plant mate. I’m a big advocate of checking every single plant on a weekly basis, we have 55k so it takes a while to get to all but heck walking through and at a glance one can spot something amiss with foliage. And then one looks further and it’s the usually suspects, ph, lockout, burn or light.
 
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