DIY - Over, Under, Sideways, Down...Sky High builds an Under Current knockoff

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SweetTooth

SweetTooth

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Bump an old thread here.

Hey there sky, I cant pm so I'm hoping you see this and reply.... Just wanting to know how and what did you used to seal the 3/4" air lines that you drilled into your buckets?
 
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heretouc

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@ sky high,

I joined this site just to post in your thread, thanks for taking the time to write this all up. I have yet to read all 33 pages, and I was hoping you give me a cliffs notes of sorts. That is, are there specific posts within those 33 pages you think are important for a UC DIY beginner to read? Have you updated your first few posts to reflect changes you have have made within the 33 pages?

From my limited understanding of the physics of a UC system I think I want to copy your system to fit my plant count. I'm getting reading to read this whole thread now, I just wanted to post and ask you if there's anything special to look out for or notes you think are important, etc. I would prefer to use round sided containers, e.x, buckets, to save a bit of money over the ones you use, but I believe flat sided leak less, correct?

Anyway, thanks for the thread. I'm about to read it over a pizza and bong hits :)
 
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heretouc

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@ Sky High or anyone who can help,

I'm a bit confused on how you attached the air hose through the containers. Can you please elaborate on what parts (exactly) are needed? What sizes and where to get them? And how (exactly) did you connect them through the bucket so they don't leak.? Also, I think I think I may use the same air diffuser use are using, but I'm unsure of the I.D. size of hose that fits over the 'nipple' for the FlexAir diffuser, can you list the I.D. size of your air hose?

I read many folks mention the concern about water over flowering the system, I think if the pump breaks. How do you solve the issue? Do you rise the water pump (and air pumps) above the water level for all buckets and the epicenter?

I am going to use a float value in the epicenter to add water via gravity from a refill reservoir placed above the epicenter. Can you please list where you found your float valve?
P.S. Do you not use a water chiller? I have a good 1 HP water chiller I'd like to employ, but I'm unsure how you UC folks make use of a chiller for UC system. I need some hand holding, sorry! ;)

TIA! :D
 
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heretouc

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I just wanted to say thanks for all the help I was given ... /sarcasm

After reading this thread and getting help from DonkDBZ (elsewhere), I already designed a much better system than anything I've seen at the Farm, including the real UC systems. RE:
  • I will use Mazzei venturi with bypass assembly in reservoir (injects 12% air by volume when PSI is reduced by half from inlet out outlet)
  • (2) 200 mesh Y-filters, both before the water pump, one will be filled with Amberlite ion-exchange resin to keep pH very stable
  • 0.25 ppm chlorine dioxide to prevent algae, biofilm, and gunking of pipes, etc.
  • FlexAir nanopore 9" diffuser disk (model #01800) in each 8 gallon square bucket, i.e., 90% of bubbles are < 750 microns. It's a provable fact that smaller bubbles are better, it's a total myth that smaller isn't better <-- I can prove that claim. The commonly used FlexAir disk diffuser model "standard" has 90% of bubbles < 2,000 microns. Yes, those bubbles are a lot bigger than the nanopore model (even though they are not really nano sized pores at 250 micron).
  • FlexAir disk diffuser attached to air hose via bulkhead through bottom of 8 gallon square container so there is not 'dead space' between bottom of bucket and diffuser.
  • etc.
  • etc.

I have done much research into the topic of DO2 and plant growth, and DO2 ppm just over DO2 saturation point is ideal for plants, i.e., < 10 ppm DO2 for water temps we use. Water at sea level that is 68'F and 'clean' has a DO2 saturation point of ~9.2 ppm. Super-saturation above ~10 is not beneficial and over 15 ppm can hinder plants and over 20 ppm will hinder plants. I can prove those claims.

I will use my DO2 meter to make sure DO2 stays above 8 ppm ...
 
Papa

Papa

Supporter
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I just wanted to say thanks for all the help I was given ... /sarcasm
...

heretouc, to expect others to provide you with cliff notes . . . because you're too lazy to read one thread . . . well, let's just say that it's insulting.

if you want any chance, whatsoever, of succeeding with your diy, you have a LOT of reading to do.

you're trolling.

sit on the bench for a week and get to that reading.



Papa
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

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heretouc, to expect others to provide you with cliff notes . . . because you're too lazy to read one thread . . . well, let's just say that it's insulting.

if you want any chance, whatsoever, of succeeding with your diy, you have a LOT of reading to do.

you're trolling.

sit on the bench for a week and get to that reading.

Papa

Damned straight- since when was it written that all the info one needs to know can be provided through ...Cliff's notes???

Papa, I am in the midst of a similar UC style grow with 5 gallon bucket systems of my own design. I'm having INCREDIBLE troubles with root rot in one system, and the other is clear as a bell, so I'm guessing the problem isn't with the basic design of the system. I read this entire thread start to finish and while I picked up some great info nothing quite addressed my current situation. I've looked around and haven't found it elsewhere, either. Any tips would be greatly appreciated, cuz it sucks to walk into my growroom and see yet another dead girl, all flopped over...
 
sky high

sky high

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LOL...papa.

kinda funny how someone can be so fuckin clueless and then...magically...builds a system that put anything/everything anyone here at the Farm has ever slapped together to shame(?)

Of course, he hasn't successfully RAN IT YET...but Hell...that's just an informality.

s h
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

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LOL...papa.

kinda funny how someone can be so fuckin clueless and then...magically...builds a system that put anything/everything anyone here at the Farm has ever slapped together to shame(?)

Of course, he hasn't successfully RAN IT YET...but Hell...that's just an informality.

s h

Sky high, your thread was extremely informative. I'm on the steep part of the RDWC learning curve and I am making pretty much all the mistakes! Your setup shows me what's possible, and so I'm using it as the growlight at the end of the tunnel to keep me going thru the fog... Just wanted to say thanks again for all the good info.
 
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benzo

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nice grow and setup u got there Skyhigh. U obviously didnt have a problem with leaks regarding the uniseals, so was wondering how thick were the walls of the buckets? thnx
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

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Different way to skin the same cat?

nice grow and setup u got there Skyhigh. U obviously didnt have a problem with leaks regarding the uniseals, so was wondering how thick were the walls of the buckets? thnx

I didn't use uniseals to build my setup, I used 1" bulkheads (#708580):



and 1" inside diameter tubing cut to length. I have few troubles with leaks, and the system is easy to reconfigure. You can buy the bulkheads in quantity for $2.75 each and the tubing at that size is around $1.60 a foot. This way, it doesn't matter how thick the sides of the 5 gallon bucket are, it works the same.

The advice I've heard from people who run uniseals is that there are several wall thicknesses of buckets and you want the thicker, or industrial grade.
 
sky high

sky high

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Gonna guess they are about 1/16th of an inch thick (.0625), benzo. A bit thicker than a plastic kitty litter pail.

tystik.....if ya got the rot ya need a chiller. Water temps are super important. That's what fucked me as well and why I'm back in the dirt. Just got tired of fuckin with pH, temps and all around monitoring of the system. Like babysittin' kids!

good luck peeps

s h
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

6,892
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Gonna guess they are about 1/16th of an inch thick (.0625), benzo. A bit thicker than a plastic kitty litter pail.

tystik.....if ya got the rot ya need a chiller. Water temps are super important. That's what fucked me as well and why I'm back in the dirt. Just got tired of fuckin with pH, temps and all around monitoring of the system. Like babysittin' kids!

good luck peeps

s h

Sky high, yeah I took your advice regarding a chiller a few weeks ago, and things are working MUCH better. Also, took Snowblind's advice and got different nutes that don't cost so much. Now that I don't feel like I'm flushing a Franklin every time I do a nute change, I'm doing it every couple of weeks.
 
sky high

sky high

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Check out the threads here w/folks running GH MaxiBloom. I know there are other nutes that are cheaper but for ease of availability in most areas the 16 lb tub is a good value, IMO.

glad to hear you got it all down, bro. Someday I'll dig mine back out and give it another go....prolly in Winter so I can still avoid the chiller routine...LOL

rock on

s h
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

6,892
313
Check out the threads here w/folks running GH MaxiBloom. I know there are other nutes that are cheaper but for ease of availability in most areas the 16 lb tub is a good value, IMO.

glad to hear you got it all down, bro. Someday I'll dig mine back out and give it another go....prolly in Winter so I can still avoid the chiller routine...LOL

rock on

s h
Thaks for the vote of confidence, but I'm FAR from having it all down!

I come from an engineering background, so when I got and installed a chiller, I overbuilt the living shit out of it- I have a 2 Ton Chillking, and it cools all my growing spaces AND all my RDWC systems, lol

The nutes Snowblind turned me on to are called Peters Professional hydroponics. The stuff is ridiculously cheap ($40 for a 25lb bag?!), lab grade pure, completely soluble and it isn't packed with a bunch of pH buffering crap that bumps PPMs but doesn't add to plant nutrition. Plus, the people working there are extremely knowlegeable and are used to working with universities and research facilities. In other words, they know their shit in ways AN and most of the rest of the hydro nutes world can't begin to keep up with.



I had a couple of conversations with them and came away very impressed. This is the tuff wholesale greenhouses use, and if you dig around in a major city near you, I guarantee you'll find a wholesaler who carries them. If not, call JRPeters and they'll be happy to list off several in your area.

The mix I use is the Jacks Professional 5-12-26, it comes with all the chelated micros in it. Add a good quality Calcium-Nitrate, such as Jacks Professional 15.5-0-0 Calcium Nitrate, and that's all your plants are likely to need. Period. Here's the kicker on this stuff; it's concentrated to the point where you need your gram scale to weigh out the nutes; it's like 3 grams per gallon! And at $40 for 25 pounds, we really are talking pennies a nute change, even in big volume RDWC like I'm running.

This stuff is a life- not to mention wallet- saver!
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

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Your voice and vote count- at least as a consumer

Thumbs up for Jacks!

UF

I am a cheerleader for some equipment and products on here, but I want everyone to know, they EARN it from me. And if I ever do it on a paid basis, I will say so up front. It's my integrity, no one can take it from me.

That said, when a company goes out of their way to take care of you, it's then YOUR responsibility to go out and be a cheerleader for them!

Otherwise, the 'fuck the customer, bring in the low cost item at the expense of quality' Walmart mentality wins.

I'll be happy to give people my list of companies with best products/equipment/practices. Just ask.
 
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ChickenHawk

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tystick,
thanks for the info on peters pro. long years ago we used peter plant foods in soil. I had all but forgotten about them and had no idea they have hydro product. thanks again.
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

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313
tystick,
thanks for the info on peters pro. long years ago we used peter plant foods in soil. I had all but forgotten about them and had no idea they have hydro product. thanks again.

You're very welcome. Glad to be payin' it forward, considering how much help I've gotten from the good peeps here on da farm!
 

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