Drooping Dying Plant Help Me Diagnose Please.

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mactheman

mactheman

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Man, I kinda wish I got to this thread sooner.


I feel bad for ya, there was a lot of bad information brought forward.

My experience with broad and russet mites is extensive and I have done enough research on them for a lifetime.


First off. The photo that I quoted above, are NOT russet mites.

Hemp russet mites appear like microscopic maggots, as shown.
View attachment 847702

They are absolutely vile creatures. The damage is very obvious and specific if you know what you are looking for. They eat the freshest youngest most vigorous growth from the growing tips, and absolutely swarm pistils. They are so small and reproduce so quickly that (get ready for this) the areas they are concentrated turn yellow and sticky, as shown. The yellow is a pile of russet mites hundreds of thousands high. Absolutely disgusting and at this point, beating russets in a large scale grow is nearly impossible without losses.
View attachment 847705
View attachment 847704



Now, as for the suggestion of using neem to combat the broad mites you may or may not have.

Unfortunately I will strongly disagree with that one. Broad mites (as well as hemp russet mites, and cyclamen mites) find neem relatively benign. You may knock down populations slightly.

However, along with pyrethrins, without having a translaminar effect (able to travel through the leaf tissue, not to be confused with systemic) they are simply not effective against broads/HRM/cylamen. These mites are simply too small, and repeatedly hitting the colony with a mild pesticide which only kills a small portion of the adults, and NONE of the eggs, is FAR from ideal.
[https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/26084090]

And unfortunately, as you have already sprayed neem, you will not be able to spray micronized sulfur, which has been recognized by many (large body of anecdotal references) to be THE treatment for broad/HRM. In the future, I recommend Safer brand wettable sulfur, 2tbsp/gal sprayed weekly for IPM, or every other day for 2 weeks if an outbreak occurs.

In a commercial setting where it is impossible to simply eliminate all biomatter and sanitize, I highly recommend doing a short rotation of spiromesifen (Forbid 4F) and abamectin (Avid) before starting sulfur, on vegetative plants only.

As for the predator mites, they lose effectiveness as soon as the resin begins to build. Around week 4 they are no longer financially viable.

A much better option for broad/russet mite treatment in flower is Nuke Em and Green Cleaner, rotated, being sprayed every other day to catch subsequent egg hatchings.




Anyways, onto your situation. I wouldn't rule out broad mites yet. You've come forward with some pretty classical signs of broad mites. I would keep scoping, primarily your tops. Can we see some close up photos of your tops? They seem a bit yellow. Also, do you spray your neem oil while the lights are on?

If you've got mites, your pistils will be constantly being eaten, and your new growth will be deformed.



Another observation I'm going to make is that all of your tops generally seem lighter, with purple stems. Have you checked your runoff to ensure that
A) you are not underfeeding
B) your plants are not locked out from the pH being off, or salt build up?
yep thanks for putting me right about the Mites ,,i thought that they were broad mites so posted that picture lol..oh well what ever mites or what every they are a bloody nuisance ,,,,mac,,
 
crimsonecho

crimsonecho

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https://www.thcfarmer.com/community/threads/broad-mite-control.76141/

There are people battled with this shit. As i told i never combatted them and hope never have to and those eggs are 100% broad mites. Oil seems to suffocate them and actually there is a azamax and iso mix recipe that would do the job as a spray on contact probably, but canola and orange oil seems to be proven in effectiveness by researches even tho this guy had less than optimal results, complete coverage and frequent application is important with these. First you may wash them with pressurized cold water outside to knock as many of them as you can. Then go with canola and orange or do the azamax/iso mix. Then release predators. I hope you can save them cause all i hear is they are a bitch to get rid off.

I just wouldnt go with avid, forbid or any other heavy chemical with my plants and i think they are not suited for indoors anyway. You breathe the air inside after all. Tho i can see avid is proven to be the most effective against broad mites, canola oil may do the job too. Also never thought about sulfur. Yeah thats a safe option too.

Well anyway you’ll find much more, using the search function.
 
Monster762

Monster762

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https://www.thcfarmer.com/community/threads/broad-mite-control.76141/

There are people battled with this shit. As i told i never combatted them and hope never have to and those eggs are 100% broad mites. Oil seems to suffocate them and actually there is a azamax and iso mix recipe that would do the job as a spray on contact probably, but canola and orange oil seems to be proven in effectiveness by researches even tho this guy had less than optimal results, complete coverage and frequent application is important with these. First you may wash them with pressurized cold water outside to knock as many of them as you can. Then go with canola and orange or do the azamax/iso mix. Then release predators. I hope you can save them cause all i hear is they are a bitch to get rid off.

I just wouldnt go with avid, forbid or any other heavy chemical with my plants and i think they are not suited for indoors anyway. You breathe the air inside after all. Tho i can see avid is proven to be the most effective against broad mites, canola oil does the job too. Also never thought about sulfur. Yeah thats a safe option too.

Well anyway you’ll find much more, using the search function.
Yeah I’m contimplating buying predators n releasing in flower box even though I seen none in there. Correct me if I’m wrong but I think just Incase it’s worth the money even if they don’t have mites to feed on. Just from security standpoint.
 
crimsonecho

crimsonecho

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Yeah I’m contimplating buying predators n releasing in flower box even though I seen none in there. Correct me if I’m wrong but I think just Incase it’s worth the money even if they don’t have mites to feed on. Just from security standpoint.

Yeah there are a lot of predator names being thrown around in the thread. I think you should. But as said it’ll take time.
 
Monster762

Monster762

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Yeah there are a lot of predator names being thrown around in the thread. I think you should. But as said it’ll take time.
Ok I’ll google some predators real quick I just want something safe for flower that targets broads.
 
Monster762

Monster762

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I’m typing everything about predator mites nematodes ladybugs praying mantis egg sacs.
Nowhere does it give me clear answers. Where can I find a list of what each bug targets. ??
Will nematodes eat broad mites?
Lady bugs?
All have after Christmas arrival
No prime on bugs.
I don’t want to order a $40 jar of bugs to have them not target the broad mites.
 
crimsonecho

crimsonecho

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Dude read the thread. People say what to get. Its 3 pages overall.

Don’t get ladybugs or nematodes.
 
ethcan

ethcan

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As I stated above, predators lose efficacy after week 4 in flower due to heavy resin production.
 
Madbud

Madbud

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Sending in predator mites now is like going into Nam. Nuke’m then a heavy water douche after chop. But if were mine, blowtorch it.
 
Monster762

Monster762

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As I stated above, predators lose efficacy after week 4 in flower due to heavy resin production.
Ok I’m just trying to do a sweep even though flower tent showed no bugs. I’m in week 3
Sending in predator mites now is like going into Nam. Nuke’m then a heavy water douche after chop. But if were mine, blowtorch it.
yeah honestly I don’t give too much a chit about the veg plants but the net is different story. I saw no bugs in flower. But that don’t mean there isn’t a couple that’ll multiply if I don’t shut em down.
 
Monster762

Monster762

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Flower looking good. Little twist but no bugs in scope. The single is suspect cause it was in veg box a week longer so it was near the outdoor plant my dad couldn’t just let the frost take. I think that plant( outdoor one) is the start. It’s dead now n gone. This plant is suspect but I drowned it in bug chit so technically it has flowers 2 weeks in. So that one will need serolious flush n might be trash but I’ll see if they die though. It was already in flower when I found mite in veg so iso is too late. I took it out n drown it in spinosaid I see a few more curled leaves on it it’s going in trash. It is 2 -3 ft from others. Not touching. Idk If them bastards jump or whatever
I think she looks a lot better than a few days ago perking up I’ll drown her in bug chit every day for a week or so
Chit says good til harvest we’ll see on this plant
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Monster762

Monster762

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Flower box setting nicely. Almost too nicely to have mites in there. Pistils healthy white. Just the turns at ends of leaves and dry look. Bumping nutes added more color. That’s a good thing.
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E8483E3D 8C2A 48F3 B243 A114DB50A6A9


These leaves here bother me this plant trapped in back corner of net also airflow being blocked a little over there. too much foliage this plant has probably 15-20 tops stretched across net but despite the leaves scope clean and actual flowers look ok opinions ? I am week 3 and this strain usually starts to stack now we’ll see soon I think they’re moving a little slow but there was a lot going on with dry coco n lockouts when I first flipped
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these all good again
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17ED032D 62FE 4D6C B65C FEDE60B2D475
 
Monster762

Monster762

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The 2 bad ones in veg 1 is probably best to just get it out of here. It’s bad but the rest seem to be happier. I’m gonna treat them for a week. My insecticidal soap with pyrethrin be here in couple days n I’ll blast that too in there. Different pesticide.
 
chemistry

chemistry

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The 2 bad ones in veg 1 is probably best to just get it out of here. It’s bad but the rest seem to be happier. I’m gonna treat them for a week. My insecticidal soap with pyrethrin be here in couple days n I’ll blast that too in there. Different pesticide.

What's your PH like? And have you by any chance just given a Phosphorus boost?
 
Monster762

Monster762

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What's your PH like? And have you by any chance just given a Phosphorus boost?
Yup I did a light pk boost. My ph I was running feeds at 6.0. Someone mentioned bringing it up a little so I went 6.2 and colors coming back. So I think it helped
I also went to full strength AN schedule instead my usual half on nutes.
 
chemistry

chemistry

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When ever I use a Phosphorus boost I get a Zinc def similar to what you have, don't know why? But a higher PH seems to be the way to sort it.
 
Monster762

Monster762

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When ever I use a Phosphorus boost I get a Zinc def similar to what you have, don't know why? But a higher PH seems to be the way to sort it.
Hmm they did green back up after raising ph. But I also added to feed so I can’t say for sure what helped. I’m running 6.2 now though.
 
Bulldog420

Bulldog420

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They are broad mites. 100% sure. Not sure how different but they are labeled on the bottle. I’m ordering the insecticidal soap with pyrethrum. I also hit em with fungicide3 and 70% neem oil.

Flower box looks ok. I saw none. It’s on other side of house. Predators are my choice if I see one there. Ton of predators n seal the box.

Excuse me. Broad mites.

They drink pyrethrum for breakfast.
 
Bulldog420

Bulldog420

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True bugs hate tea tree n I got that too. The flower leaves what you think? I scoped no bugs there. N cleaned scope between boxes too. My flower been looking dry up top. I water heavy twice a day now with full strength nutes in one and sugars in the other. I’m already on the predators. Any recommendations on them. Which ones? Inside in tent.
051265_1.jpg

The only product I use "late" in flower for mites is essential oils. I mentioned the wrong brand before, so I posted it above in this post. Notice the "organic" part? That means they use no pesticides, which would cause your product to fail testing when spraying this late.

As for not seeing any bugs in the flower room. I would be floored if you eradicated the flower room with the pesticides you used.

O yea, veg rooms should get sulfur. Becoming the industry standard for fighting mites.

As for predators, you have to call you bug guy and ask. https://www.arbico-organics.com/category/beneficial-insects-predators-parasites is the company I use. He will put together a plan for releases, and what bugs should be used in your tent considering RH and temps.


For next year:
Beneficial bug release early
Sulfur sprays followed by beneficial bug releases.
Then before flower, hit them with a round of pesticides. I like Grandevo, then Venerate, then essential oils. This knocks down any possible populations.
After a couple days for the last rounds of sprays to mild out, then release more beneficial bugs.
Then one last time before flower.


That is my schedule at least. Mixed in with some stronger AG products.
 

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