Eriophyid mites-the hemp russet mite

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caregiverken

caregiverken

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Dealing with this pest right now. The preflower sites, and nodes turn a grey brow on affected areas? With leave curling and yellowing with the petiols getting covered with maroon(ish) spots?anyone tried a soil drench with azamax ? My sprayer(s) are in the shop. Fucked by the timing.
sounds like you have russets:(
yeah you can do that..should help
I did both and found dead Russets afterward
 
R

RPsmoke

9
3
So Met52 is your guys go to right now? About to order some up. I just read both of your guys threads. I think I may be dealing with a similar issue, in a similar area. Appreciate you both taking the time to post. Noticed a few earlier flowering plants with almost all dead stigmas. One had some slight leaf cupping. Working with a cheap 100x handheld scope I'm not having any luck actually id-ing them though. Maybe time to upgrade that...
 
SunGrown

SunGrown

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So Met52 is your guys go to right now? About to order some up. I just read both of your guys threads. I think I may be dealing with a similar issue, in a similar area. Appreciate you both taking the time to post. Noticed a few earlier flowering plants with almost all dead stigmas. One had some slight leaf cupping. Working with a cheap 100x handheld scope I'm not having any luck actually id-ing them though. Maybe time to upgrade that...
for me, yes met52 and I also still have and will use takedown from monterey. But that is just pyrethrin.

I got video of mine at 400X, I honestly do not think you can see them with less than 100x but a lot of online sources say you can see them with as little as 13x...I doubt that though.

The all dead areas you mention, where there should be awesome pistillate growth, probably a sure ID right there

met52 will not hurt regardless though, and also douse your girls with aspirin as well, boosts the SAR response
 
R

RPsmoke

9
3
Ya, I first tried usuing a regular 30x jewlers loop, no way. Saw your video, and at 400x they are still tiny. Used the 100x a bunch today and still not a definite id, but I got a feeling. Ordering the Met52.

Thanks for a quick response. Been spraying a rotation of azatrol and Bt along with an essential oil spray I just started. I also recently used aloe vera 200x for that salycilic acid and that SAR response. I just let my girls get too thirsty trying to conserve water, and made them weak I'm thinking.
 
SunGrown

SunGrown

1,085
163
Ya, I first tried usuing a regular 30x jewlers loop, no way. Saw your video, and at 400x they are still tiny. Used the 100x a bunch today and still not a definite id, but I got a feeling. Ordering the Met52.

Thanks for a quick response. Been spraying a rotation of azatrol and Bt along with an essential oil spray I just started. I also recently used aloe vera 200x for that salycilic acid and that SAR response. I just let my girls get too thirsty trying to conserve water, and made them weak I'm thinking.
I never mentioned it in my thread or anywhere else yet

But

What I think really set my issue into overdrive fast was one day, yes, one day, when I shut off my irrigation in the morning because I intended to hand water in a huge batch of tea that day. Well I had to run up another hill to help some friends out, and I didn't get back till after dark and put it off till the next morning.

When I went out the next morning, the plant that is now affected the worst was seriously droopy and her mound of soil was dry....I have been wondering if perhaps they were in the soil and crawled out after it was so dry so they could eat on my girl!

Once your plants get used to a timeline for their irrigation I know it is best to stick to it or problems can arise, and this time serious problems came to be.

Good luck, please let us know how it goes for you
 
SunGrown

SunGrown

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Sorry SunGrown, my comment was made about the article in the first post and in general. Unfortunately, I have no other papers on the topic.
no problem, and thanks for the reply!
 
R

RPsmoke

9
3
FWIW... Went to talk with some locals about the issue. I'm new to the area, but they battled them last year sounds like. Some guys were saying Avid didn't even work in their garden but the only things that did seem to work was that Foliar Pack and the Met52, when caught early enough. One buddy said he had it bad, and only used the OG Biowar foliar pack, and used it a lot, and had a good harvest still. The Met52 should arrive today. Been using Azatrol and my other regular sprays, and am seeing new stigmas even on the worse plant. I was feeling pretty defeated but with the threads here, and talking with some people... thinking we can beat this.
 
C

chocolate

1
1
There's an epidemic of these guys and broad mites in our community (Sierra Foothills) right now. The local grow shop reports 1 out of 3 of their customers has an infestation. This particular shop tends towards organics and they are recommending foliar sulphur to everyone. They say 9 out of 10 are having success. I just started last night.

We have the russets, only on our clones, not on the seed plants (all are outdoor). I was able to see the critters with a 30x loop, though I have really good eyesight and they were just barely visible. I picked up a 100x scope yesterday and was able to positively ID them as russets.

I misted with sulphur last night for the first time and every mite I looked at afterwards was dead (or at least not moving...). This morning, 95% were not moving, but a couple strays here and there were alive and ambling.

Here's a copy of my conversation with the helpful people at the grow store:

I researched broad mites in the forums, found some more "natural" things that people had reported good results with and am wondering, Do you have any experience with any of these?


http://bioworksinc.com/products/suffoil-x.php
http://bigtimezyme.com/html/bigtimeexterminator.html
I read on a forum something like "I'd never smoke anything I sprayed with sulphur..."​


Here's the reply:
So there are lots of attractive designer type products that claim to kill mites. Some actually work. I am not family with the above three, but I do have some ideas.
The first one is rosemary oil and geranium oil, both awesome killers of insects. Plant some in the garden with pyrethrum for next year and some german chamomile which seems to repel mildew. There are products sold in town here that have those ingredients, the SNS line has them.

Suffocating oil. Just like headlice mites do not like oil. The most effective are mineral oil (yuch), Canola, coconut, sesame and fish oil. Adding things like rosemary, lavender, coriander, eucalyptus, basil, cinnamon, all help, kill and or repel. SM90 is one like that, organicide is another. Adding cocowet to any spray helps a lot, as does adding yucca or molasses (which plants love).

There are also biological that help. Met 52, Swirski predatory mite, predatory nematodes, a thrips predator cucamaris?, lacewings, mantis', and thriple threat-which has three predatory mites-only one the californica one-works on russets.

Despite all this, Sulfur has by far been the most effective for folks. Especially when one adds yucca or cocowet with it. Be sure NOT to add an oil. Lime can also help.​
 
caregiverken

caregiverken

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Welcome to the farm @chocolate
I hit them with everything, except Sulphur. I bought it,,and was going to use it..
But decided not to use it.

Does it ever burn pistols?

because, thats what the russets do..and i didnt want to get confused :confused:
 
GR33NL3AF

GR33NL3AF

1,904
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I noticed some tell tale signs of Broads/Russet recently and tried spotting them with a 60x, I did notice a couple two-spotted mites but couldn't accurately identify any broads. Where would Broads primarily colonize?

In any case, these are new plants meant for my new room and I will be treating with the same remedies my co-workers have used to rid themselves of Broads/Russet Mites in the past. It's as follows:
EZ Wet (Sugar Detergent/Wetting Agent)
Azamax
Stylet Oil

And I think the big missing piece of the puzzle, which I haven't heard anyone discuss yet is Diatomaceous Earth. Which is a fine dust that is meant to be sifted over your plants and the surrounding area. The particles in the dust rip open ALL soft bodied insects when they come in contact with it and it is completely harmless to humans. I plan to dust my room top to bottom after every spray.

Just before I flip I will give them a single dose of Forbid and then when in flower continue using EZ Wet, Stylet Oil and throw in some Mega Wash(Mighty Wash).

I will keep you farmer's posted of my progress.
 
venial

venial

81
18
wow thank the lord another russet mite thread, any success stories ?
 
Tnelz

Tnelz

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Hey bro. Was trying to pm u but can't. If at all possible I'd love to talk a little concerning root aphids. Have some met questions and don't want to clog the thread.
no problem, and thanks for the reply!
 
GR33NL3AF

GR33NL3AF

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@GR33NL3AF yes i tried the dia-earth but was too impatient they weren't dying and some of my plants are 8 foot+ coating them in DE wouldn't have looked good or been beneficial to the ladies but i could be wrong! i do dust the insides with the ingenious tool i found on amazon but I feel D.E. is more of a preventive as a "killer" of existing mites. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UGX742/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I think the DE is most beneficial when used to treat the cracks and different hiding places but have heard success stories when used in veg, when they're small (mine are). I just sprayed with Azamax and EZ Wet and then coated my room with DE, need a dustin mizer or sifter to be more thorough.

My personal view on eradicating these bugs is to start with organic remedies to knock back the colony then hit them HARD with a systemic like Forbid. I'm always nervous to use chemical insecticides solely because I don't want to create a super mite.
 
leadsled

leadsled

GrowRU
2,145
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There's an epidemic of these guys and broad mites in our community (Sierra Foothills) right now. The local grow shop reports 1 out of 3 of their customers has an infestation. This particular shop tends towards organics and they are recommending foliar sulphur to everyone. They say 9 out of 10 are having success. I just started last night.

We have the russets, only on our clones, not on the seed plants (all are outdoor). I was able to see the critters with a 30x loop, though I have really good eyesight and they were just barely visible. I picked up a 100x scope yesterday and was able to positively ID them as russets.

I misted with sulphur last night for the first time and every mite I looked at afterwards was dead (or at least not moving...). This morning, 95% were not moving, but a couple strays here and there were alive and ambling.

Here's a copy of my conversation with the helpful people at the grow store:

I researched broad mites in the forums, found some more "natural" things that people had reported good results with and am wondering, Do you have any experience with any of these?


http://bioworksinc.com/products/suffoil-x.php
http://bigtimezyme.com/html/bigtimeexterminator.html
I read on a forum something like "I'd never smoke anything I sprayed with sulphur..."​


Here's the reply:
So there are lots of attractive designer type products that claim to kill mites. Some actually work. I am not family with the above three, but I do have some ideas.
The first one is rosemary oil and geranium oil, both awesome killers of insects. Plant some in the garden with pyrethrum for next year and some german chamomile which seems to repel mildew. There are products sold in town here that have those ingredients, the SNS line has them.

Suffocating oil. Just like headlice mites do not like oil. The most effective are mineral oil (yuch), Canola, coconut, sesame and fish oil. Adding things like rosemary, lavender, coriander, eucalyptus, basil, cinnamon, all help, kill and or repel. SM90 is one like that, organicide is another. Adding cocowet to any spray helps a lot, as does adding yucca or molasses (which plants love).

There are also biological that help. Met 52, Swirski predatory mite, predatory nematodes, a thrips predator cucamaris?, lacewings, mantis', and thriple threat-which has three predatory mites-only one the californica one-works on russets.

Despite all this, Sulfur has by far been the most effective for folks. Especially when one adds yucca or cocowet with it. Be sure NOT to add an oil. Lime can also help.​
All good advice and the hydro store makes $$ on what they sell.

fyi, The helpful people at the hydro store can sell you SNS products rather than IC3 or a DIY essential oil blend and then help themselves to more $$.

So if you want (or anyone else) to save some $$, here is a breakdown of the ingredients in a few products.

comparison of the ingredients:


SNS-203



    • Clove Oil1.5%

    • Rosemary Oi l0.53%

    • Polyglyceryl Oleate 0.6%

    • Lauric Acid 0.11%

----

ic3 insecticide is
ACTIVE INGREDIENTS
% COMPOSITION
Rosemary Oil
10.0
Geraniol
5.0
Peppermint Oil
2.0


-------

Best bang for the buck, due to % of oils, looks to be the build a soil essential oil blend.
----

6 oil blend. $45.00 for 8 oz.

http://buildasoil.com/products/essential-oil-blend
This 8 Ounce Bottle of oil will mix with water to make about 16 Gallons of foliar spray.
Compare to over $50 per gallon with the other products on the market.
27.77% Rosemary Oil - Camphor Type - Spain (a-pinene: 27.5%, Camphene: 12.9%, Mircene: 4.0%, Limonene: 3.4%, 1.8-Cineol: 15.8%, Camphor: 18.1%, Linalool: 0.6%)
27.77% Eucalyptus Oil - Blue Malle - Australia (1,8-Cineole % (m/m): 92.17, a-Pinene % (m/m): 1.44, b-Pinene % (m/m): 0.83, Sabinene % (m/m): 0.10, a-Phellandrene % (m/m): 0.09, Limonene % (m/m): 1.26)
27.77% Lemongrass oil - India (myrcene, citronellal, geranyl acetate, nerol, geraniol, neral and traces of limonene and citral)
5.55% Thyme - Red Thymol - Spain (a-thujone, a-pinene, camphene, b-pinene, p-cymene, a-terpinene, linalool, borneol, b-caryophyllene, thymol and carvacrol.)
5.55% Clove - Stem - Madagascar (Eugenol...........94.73, Beta-caryophyllene...3.63%, Acetate d'eugenyle....0.78%)
5.55% Ginger - India (Ginger is high in Citral along with 477 other constituents)
When choosing the blend I went with the oils most often mentioned for potency with Mites, Mildews, Molds and our General Purposes for Indoor Gardening. Out of the list of possible oils I also chose the most affordable oils over the most expensive so long as the reports indicate they were equally effective for our use. Once I found the most potent and economical oils, I then took the selection a step further and chose the region and type of oil that was highest in the particular constituents we were after. For instance, Clove Oil could be from several regions and also from different parts of the plant. I chose Clove Stem because it showed the highest amount of Eugenol of the other varieties of clove oil.
-------

sm-90 contains sulfur in the oils. coriander, canola oil.

(Not positive but the triethanolamine may be to help the oils and water mix, due to the sulphur content)


OIL OF CORIANDER 1% CAS Number: 8008-52-4
MODIFIED CANOLA OIL 3% CAS Number: N/A
TRIETHANOLAMINE 5% CAS Number: 102-71-6

I got all the % from the MSDS of each product.

Hope that helps save some $$.
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

Living dead girl
23,596
638
We've already reverse engineered a couple of SNS products, the biggest problems were figuring out which order to add and mix ingredients because emulsification is the trick. Bulk rosemary oil can get a bit spendy, but I think it's worth it. The other stuff is stupid cheap, but a big bottle of organic rosemary oil cost me about $80, IIRC.
I noticed some tell tale signs of Broads/Russet recently and tried spotting them with a 60x, I did notice a couple two-spotted mites but couldn't accurately identify any broads. Where would Broads primarily colonize?

In any case, these are new plants meant for my new room and I will be treating with the same remedies my co-workers have used to rid themselves of Broads/Russet Mites in the past. It's as follows:
EZ Wet (Sugar Detergent/Wetting Agent)
Azamax
Stylet Oil

And I think the big missing piece of the puzzle, which I haven't heard anyone discuss yet is Diatomaceous Earth. Which is a fine dust that is meant to be sifted over your plants and the surrounding area. The particles in the dust rip open ALL soft bodied insects when they come in contact with it and it is completely harmless to humans. I plan to dust my room top to bottom after every spray.

Just before I flip I will give them a single dose of Forbid and then when in flower continue using EZ Wet, Stylet Oil and throw in some Mega Wash(Mighty Wash).

I will keep you farmer's posted of my progress.
I've been reading about the DE, but now I can't remember where (I thought it was here on the farm). IIRC, broads are most prevalent at the new growth/growing tips, and IIRC 60x won't be strong enough, I think you need something like 100x to see them.

Don't leave out the vegetable (castile) soap in your mix. It's not just a good adjuvant, it helps remove the waxy coating on many soft-bodied insects, again IIRC. You don't have to use a liquid castile, you can also take a hard bar of soap and simply take a vegetable peeler and shave off the soap. When I do that I don't really measure as accurately as I do when I'm measuring out liquid soap, I just approximate the same amounts. So, if for example a treatment recipe says to use 2T/gal, I'll shave off what looks like 2T. Make sense?
 
GR33NL3AF

GR33NL3AF

1,904
263
We've already reverse engineered a couple of SNS products, the biggest problems were figuring out which order to add and mix ingredients because emulsification is the trick. Bulk rosemary oil can get a bit spendy, but I think it's worth it. The other stuff is stupid cheap, but a big bottle of organic rosemary oil cost me about $80, IIRC.
I've been reading about the DE, but now I can't remember where (I thought it was here on the farm). IIRC, broads are most prevalent at the new growth/growing tips, and IIRC 60x won't be strong enough, I think you need something like 100x to see them.

Don't leave out the vegetable (castile) soap in your mix. It's not just a good adjuvant, it helps remove the waxy coating on many soft-bodied insects, again IIRC. You don't have to use a liquid castile, you can also take a hard bar of soap and simply take a vegetable peeler and shave off the soap. When I do that I don't really measure as accurately as I do when I'm measuring out liquid soap, I just approximate the same amounts. So, if for example a treatment recipe says to use 2T/gal, I'll shave off what looks like 2T. Make sense?
Thanks Sea.. I'm going to grab some Dr. Bronners, it comes highly recommended.. And DE, when applied right will completely coat your plant so ANYTHING walking it's surface will get sliced up. This is now a staple in my room..
 
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