Fermented Plant Extracts and making your own nutrient line

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Jack Dupp

Jack Dupp

507
93
^^^try white rice. Started mine yesterday and im already getting the top. I washed same rice twice with same water just for the hell of it. I think this is way better then one wash.

Picked up a bag of plain old rice. It has been 3 days now after the wash,and I am already getting a "top".

White rice seems to do the trick. Thanks for the tip.
 
dextr0

dextr0

1,650
163
Some more info for all of you that i found interesting

http://www.seasonalgardener.com/Tips/Liquidplantfertilizer/tabid/3190/Default.html

Liquid plant fertilizer - Green manure protects the garden
If you dislike using man-made chemicals to stimulate plant growth, liquid fertilizer produced from garden weeds or other freely available plant material can prove to be an excellent alternative.

Many plants, such as nettles and horsetail , are commonly seen as useless weeds, cluttering gardens and fields. However, they can be put to very good use by gardeners who appreciate what they have to offer.

When these plants have been transformed by simple methods into liquid fertilizer, they can make an excellent source of nourishment for garden plants.

Liquid fertilizer provides extra goodness which is extracted when leaves and stalks ferment. Plants treated with liquid fertilizer have their resistance to disease increased, helping them to thrive.

Liquid fertilizer is easy to produce

Liquid fertilizer made from nettles, horsetail and comfrey has proved to be very effective. The fertilizer also has the advantage of being very easy and cheap to make. All you need is a wooden or plastic container (ceramic pots are also fine) and some of the plants already mentioned.

Fill the container to the halfway mark with plants. Then fill it up to the top with water and cover with chicken wire or a similar material. This keeps the plants under the surface of the water. The flow of air must not be impeded. Give the mixture a stir at least once a day. This mixes oxygen into the liquid, which is essential to the survival of the bacteria breaking down the plants. Within a few days, the bubbling liquid turns dark and starts to smell foul. This signals that fermentation is in full swing.

After one or two weeks, when the mixture has stopped bubbling, it is time to sieve the liquid.

Relieving the smell

The length of the fermentation process mainly depends on the temperature. The warmer it is, the quicker the process will be. To minimize the unpleasant smell, you could add a handful of bone meal or a few drops of valerian at the beginning of the process. Adding thyme or rosemary sometimes helps, and these herbs may also make the liquid fertilizer even more effective.

Lots of nourishment

The liquid fertilizer cannot be used immediately after fermentation. It is concentrated and contains large amounts of nitrogen and potash. So that it does not burn sensitive plants, the fertilizer must be diluted in water to between 1:5 and 1:10. If it is to be used for very sensitive plants, you should dilute it up to 1:20. When ready, you can apply the fertilizer using either a watering can or sprayer.

Nettle or seaweed

The stinging nettle is an ideal plant to use for feeding. You can use the stalks and leaves from the ordinary stinging nettle, Urtica dioica, or those from the annual, Urtica urens. For the best effect, harvest nettles before they flower.
Seaweed is an excellent source of free nutrients. Spread it out and hose it down with fresh water to remove salt and sand. Then make the fertilizer as you would with nettles.

Seaweed extract is a good general fertilizer and is relatively high in potash. This makes it very suitable for flowers, potatoes and fruit, including tomatoes. As seaweed can be found at any time of the year, it
makes an excellent winter and spring feed.

Horsetail

Horsetail, Equisetum arvense, is also a very suitable ingredient for making liquid fertilizer.

A mixture of nettles and horsetail combines to make a very useful preparation. For horsetail extract, steep 1kg of fresh dried plants in 10 litres of water. This should be allowed to stand for one day.

This mixture is high in nitrogen and particularly useful for brassicas and lettuce and as a spring dressing for lawns.

A 'magic' plant

Comfrey is a plant with many uses. It is a wellknown traditional ingredient in herbal remedies for people, but can also be used to fertilize plants.

Both common comfrey, Symphytum officinale, and rough comfrey, Symphytum asperum, are suitable ingredients for a liquid fertilizer with an action similar to that of nettle extract. You can also mix the two plants, as they complement each other.

Comfrey is very easy to grow from root cuttings, or by dividing the roots in spring. You can also grow it from seed. Comfrey thrives in most places where there is enough moisture.

The plants can be dried for use during times when you cannot obtain fresh ingredients. Use 100-200g of dried plants to each 10 litres of water.

However, it is always preferable to use fresh comfrey, as it contains a higher concentration of the active ingredients which are of most benefit to plants.
 
M

motownklown

14
1
Love this thread, I have been doing a little studying also, and can't wait to read on...subd for sure
 
dextr0

dextr0

1,650
163
I made a extract that smells like a mf'er!! Plants loved it tho. I'm doing an experiment i will use no bottled nute's this grow. Only FPE, and EWC.

Heres what the girls got fed

3 whole banana skin and all not tops tho
1tbs orange juice
some cannabis plants chopped up
some bamboo plants chopped up
kelp meal
rice water wash extract
EWC
Rocket Fuel which is Colloidal Rock Phosphate, Bat Guano, Greensand, Red Phosphate, Volcanite, Brewers Yeast, Premium Fertilizer 7-2-2, Earth Worm Castings, Zeolite, Diatomaceous Earth, Alfalfa Meal, Kelp Meal and Molasses.. And a little more medina beneficial microbes that im sure mostly contains molasses in it.

Let this ferment for a week so far but i needed a kick start to my garden so i applied a little and they were all perky.

I will be applying this very sparingly but as i use R0 water im thinking i want to start doing more teas to keep my levels good.
 
dextr0

dextr0

1,650
163
http://nfe.localgarden.us/index.php?title=Indigenous_Micro_Organisms#How_to_collect_IMOs

Download "How to Cultivate Indigenous Microorganisms" in pdf format by CTHAR "[[1]]"

The IMOs can be collected by various methods. It can be collected from hills and mountains using steamed rice with low moisture ( hard- boiled ), decomposed leaves and bamboo stumps. It is possible to collect, to a certain extent, particular types of microorganisms.
Collecting from forest

1. Fill a wooden lunch box (or any natural material like hala basket etc ) with hard- steamed rice. The rice should not be packed deeper than 7 cm (about little less than 3 inches ). This is for air supply. Without sufficient air supply, anaerobic microorganism will be collected. Anaerobic microorganisms are more commonly recommended.
2. cover the lunchbox with rough paper ( so air can get through )and tie it ti the box rubber band.
3. Bury the lunchbox in the local bamboo field or decomposed leaf molds in the hills. Cover with leaves. Be careful that the leaves press the paper to touch the rice surface.
4. Cover plastic sheet on the leaves above the lunchbox to prevent rain from getting through.
5. At 20 C or 70 F, it will take about 4 to 5 days ( faster when hotter ) for the IMOs to fill up the box. Move this rice ( this is called IMO 1 ) to the clay pot.
6. Mix crude ( or brown ) sugar with the IMO 1 in 1:1 ratio ( this is called IMO 2 ).
7. Cover the clay pot with paper and tie with rubber band.

Collecting from leaf mold

1. Go to the hills forests, valleys, you will find leaf molds full of white hypha. Collect this IMO mold. Deciduous tree forests are better because evergreen forest have less microorganisms.
2. Dip hard-steamed rice in solution of FPJ ( fermented plant juice) diluted 1,000 times. Warm it then leave it to cool.
3. mix this rice with the leaf mold. Leave for one night.
4. mix this compound into rice bran (or wheat mill ) for propagation. Cover the rice bran with straw to promote IMO growth.
5. You can add FPJ ( fermented plant juice ), FAA ( fish amino acid ), mineral A, etc. to boost process.

Collecting from bamboo stumps

1. Choose a bamboo tree in the center of the bamboo forest. Slice the trunk at 10 cm from the ground obliquely. Cut it so that inner part is lower than the outer part so that the bamboo juice will not leak out.
2. Fill in hard-boiled rice in the bamboo cavity: rice should be higher than the brim.
3. Put a wooden lunch box C cedar ) over the stump.
4. Cover the box with leaves.
5. Cover with plastic sheet and then put a weight on top so it won't fly away.
6. In 3-5 days, red, white, yellow, black and all sorts of bacterias will have gathered. Juice from bamboo will also be collected.
7. Cut the stump. Pour the rice in clay pot ( this is IMO 1 ).
8. Mix crude ( or brown ) Sugar with IMO1 in 1:1 ratio ( this is IMO@ ).

Collecting from rice-paddy

1. After harvest, cover the rice stump with rice lunchbox immediately after cutting. The lunchbox faces downward.
2. Cover with steel wire net to prevent mouse.
3. Cover with plastic sheet to prevent rain.
4. After approximately one week, IMO will have gathered.
5. Pour the rice clay pot ( this is IMO1).
6. Mix crude ( or brown) sugar with the IMO1 in 1:1 ratio ( this is IMO2).
7. Cover the clay pot with paper, and tie with rubber band.

When you collect microorganism from rice paddies, in contrast to the microorganisms collected from bamboo forest or leaf molds, you can get a lot of anaerobic microorganisms. In particular, you can collect a large quantity of ; carbohydrates; and bacillus subtitles that disintegrates strong fibers such as straws and straws and reeds. Theses two mocroorganisms have outstanding decomposing power.

But when the fermentation temperature goes up above 70 C, they not only convert protein into amino-acid into ammonia. In such case, the nutrients are lost to the air. Therefore, the fermentation temperature should be maintained at below 50 C. Lactic acid bacteria feed on sugar and amino acid made by bacillus licheniformis and bacillus subtilis.

Adding lactic acid bacteria can lower the temperature.
 
G

Green Supreme

Guest
Not sure if it has been mentioned here yet, but I have a cutting edge farmer friend. He speaks well of a product called Hawaiian Liquid Compost Factor. Talk amongst yaselves j/k. Peace GS
 
COCOLOCO

COCOLOCO

141
28
What about a algae based Veganic nutrient? Theyre doin some amazing things with algae these days making a variety of fuels from ethenol to jet fuel.. Any potential for complete plant nutrition? Spirulina, Manna etc...
 
dextr0

dextr0

1,650
163
^^Coco im not really understanding your question. Are you asking if algae would be a complete nutrient for plants or if FPEs are??

There is actually a thread i ran into the other day here on the farm where a guy is using the algae he grows in his fish tank to feed the plants.



26th post. It is in spanish but imma translate real quick right here....

Revitalization Tonic

What i do is put the aquarium photoperiod 14/10
algae growth shoots
then collected
i let them dry in the sun
then macerated in hot water
the plants love it

I do believe fermentation would be a better process for breaking down then maceration, as the heat would take away from nutrients available.
 
dextr0

dextr0

1,650
163
Some plants ive been feeding the FPE and ACCTS to...nice n green no?
First is a bagseed that ive been growing for awhile now, second and third are Donatello which ive grown before also. Third is what i was told to be Bubblegum.
rsz_dsc03305.jpg

rsz_dsc03303.jpg
rsz_dsc03304.jpg
rsz_dsc03314.jpg


dextr0
 
dextr0

dextr0

1,650
163
Fresh LAB. This will be used to break down organic matter plants etc for awhile.
rsz_dsc03322.jpg


Next up is Water Soluble Calcium same as in Botanicares CALPLEX.

"Another important input, used with fruiting plants and trees is Water-Soluble Calcium Phosphate (WCP). This is made from charred cattle or pig bones soaked in brown rice vinegar (BRV). A charcoal grill, long handled tongs, charcoal and clean, boiled bones are needed. Get the charcoal hot, then place the bones directly touching them, turning a few times so they blacken evenly. This will take about 45 minutes on low heat. When they are done – they will be gray evenly on every surface. Black is underdone, white is overdone.
Let them cool a bit, and weigh them. The proportion of bones to BRV should be 1:10. Place the charred bones into a wide-mouthed, glass container which is almost filled with BRV. The bones will give off bubbles, sizzling like ginger ale. This is the phosphoric acid being released. Leave 1/3 empty space on top for air. Store in the dark at 72 degrees. The liquid should stay fairly clear. Strain after a week and store in a glass container.
To use, dilute with water 1:1000. Spray on leaves during flowering stages or growth periods. Use also when buds have weak differentiation or growth is poor.

Water Soluble Calcium (WCA) is made from oyster, crab or shrimp shells in a similar way. A grill is used to slowly char the shells, turning them occasionally among the coals over low heat. A pungent smell will be released, which will be gone when done. After 45 minutes they should be evenly gray. Let cool, then break apart with your fingers and drop into BRV, The proportions are by weight, 1 part shell to 10 parts vinegar. They will bubble as they hit the vinegar. After one week, strain and store in a cool, dark place.
WCA will improve root growth, fruit ripening and low sugar content, and nutrient uptake. Dilute with 1:1000 with water and spray on leaves. It can be used with FPJ and oriental herbal nutrient (OHN) to increase it’s effectiveness

Another recipe for water soluble calcium is made from eggshells. Collect several dozen eggshells, wash and take the inside membrane out. Crush them into 1/4″ pieces and brown in a frying pan over low heat. When evenly golden brown, place into BRV in a jar. The proportion of eggshells to BRV is 1:10. The eggshells will emit bubbles when they are immersed in the vinegar. After a week, the vinegar should still be fairly clear and eggshells the same color. Pour off the liquid and store in a glass container."
 
GanjaGardener

GanjaGardener

848
63
Wow!

Hi fellow brewers.

I added fermentation to the program three runs ago and my plants have never looked healthier or more robust. In fact, this is the first time in recent memory that I don't have a plant/s in need of some form of revival.

Because there are other mitigating factors at play in the grow culture - more sophisticated teas and an improved substrate- it makes it difficult to place a quantitative value on fermentation's role in the overall process and even more difficult to get a read on the relative quality of my brews/soup recipes. But gathering info to explore a process that is already in place and working beats the hell out of chasing down problems after the fact.

Anyhoo, I've done a decent amount of homework on the subject. After I finish reading the thread and have time to let it ferment (sorry 'bout that) for awhile, hopefully, there'll be something from my research that I can add to the table.

I'm really happy that I found this thread.:party0042:

Added: Thus far, I'm getting a vibe that permaculture is one of the through lines here. Now I'm really getting excited.:icon_spin:
 
A. Muse

A. Muse

14
3
Some good knowledge being shared here. It's been very enlightening and prompted a good deal of research as I find myself planning some changes for this summer.

With regards to the aforementioned plan, it's looking something like this:
  • previous years' bags already in the bush that have been stewing in nature's goodness (contain bone meal, compost, peat, perlite, vermiculite, and IMOs)
  • addition of Coco as necessary to top up
  • mycorrhizal fungi
  • fulvic
  • dried kelp (AN) FPE
  • possibly langbeinite, glacier dust
  • castings
  • alfalfa for triacontanol, N, etc. (no fish allowed due to bears)
  • LB foliar

This is all swamp-style, so additional lime will also be added to buffer pH.

So, questions:

Will I need as much lime as a chem nute regimen, or is pH not as critical to system equilibrium?

Will the LB foliar interfere with the existing IMOs?

Can/should the worm castings be concentrated in any way, or is it more beneficial for them to be added to the bags as-is? Concentrate would be preferable due to weight & carrying considerations, but it is how it is. You find your swamp, you hike to it and all that.

Even though triacontonal is water-insoluble, the only recipes I've found are for anaerobic alfalfa teas (including some that add epsom salts?). Anyone have experience with alfalfa FPE? Would fermentation make triacontonal available in solution? Would it be better to add pellets to the mix and let the soil microbes, fulvic, and Hygrozyme work on the availability?

And the part about water-soluble calcium has inspired me to start cleaning up the freezer and make venison broth so I have clean bones. Good stuff.

If anyone has answers or contributions I'm all ears.

Cheers,
Muse
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

Living dead girl
23,596
638
^^Coco im not really understanding your question. Are you asking if algae would be a complete nutrient for plants or if FPEs are??

There is actually a thread i ran into the other day here on the farm where a guy is using the algae he grows in his fish tank to feed the plants.



26th post. It is in spanish but imma translate real quick right here....

Revitalization Tonic

What i do is put the aquarium photoperiod 14/10
algae growth shoots
then collected
i let them dry in the sun
then macerated in hot water
the plants love it

I do believe fermentation would be a better process for breaking down then maceration, as the heat would take away from nutrients available.
That is not algae he's using, it's Vallisneria, a vascular aquatic plant.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vallisneria

I believe it would make a difference to know exactly what someone is using.
 
dextr0

dextr0

1,650
163
That is not algae he's using, it's Vallisneria, a vascular aquatic plant.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vallisneria

I believe it would make a difference to know exactly what someone is using.

I diddnt know what plant he was using to grow the algae on but thats good to know. I do believe that he was aiming for the nutrients or what have u in the algae also, as he flipped the photo period of the aquarium so that the algae could grow...i think.

Some good knowledge being shared here. It's been very enlightening and prompted a good deal of research as I find myself planning some changes for this summer.

With regards to the aforementioned plan, it's looking something like this:
  • previous years' bags already in the bush that have been stewing in nature's goodness (contain bone meal, compost, peat, perlite, vermiculite, and IMOs)
  • addition of Coco as necessary to top up
  • mycorrhizal fungi
  • fulvic
  • dried kelp (AN) FPE
  • possibly langbeinite, glacier dust
  • castings
  • alfalfa for triacontanol, N, etc. (no fish allowed due to bears)
  • LB foliar

This is all swamp-style, so additional lime will also be added to buffer pH.

So, questions:

Will I need as much lime as a chem nute regimen, or is pH not as critical to system equilibrium?

Will the LB foliar interfere with the existing IMOs?

Can/should the worm castings be concentrated in any way, or is it more beneficial for them to be added to the bags as-is? Concentrate would be preferable due to weight & carrying considerations, but it is how it is. You find your swamp, you hike to it and all that.

Even though triacontonal is water-insoluble, the only recipes I've found are for anaerobic alfalfa teas (including some that add epsom salts?). Anyone have experience with alfalfa FPE? Would fermentation make triacontonal available in solution? Would it be better to add pellets to the mix and let the soil microbes, fulvic, and Hygrozyme work on the availability?

And the part about water-soluble calcium has inspired me to start cleaning up the freezer and make venison broth so I have clean bones. Good stuff.

If anyone has answers or contributions I'm all ears.

Cheers,
Muse

^^Muse hey whats up, glad your interested.
I cannot advise u to do much as im just learning about this myself. But i will throw my ideas out there and hopefully someone/something will prove me right or wrong along the way.

First u ask about Lime. I do not know right now how important lime is. I use peat moss that has dol. lime in it and a npk of 0-0-0. Like i stated i use peat moss so im finding that its usfull to keep around as a buffer. As to the importance of using it in ground soil, Idk. I grow inside. Maybe someone else can help you. I would be making a subcool soil if outside.

Second will a foliar LAB harm anything...the way i understand it no.

Earthworm Castings...idk about concentrates. I would just go get the real deal, or better yet grow your own. I just think any other way you'll be paying for watered down bs.

On the Alfalfa and triacontonal....i find both very interesting. I want to do a FPE for veg but that will be another day. I personally think it would be the shit. And yes i think that fermenting would make it available but i would use the hay form not pellets. Maybe sea will tell us something here cause i believe she used it before?? Maybe we dont need fermentation??

dextr0
 
dextr0

dextr0

1,650
163
Found this here on the farm! Thanx Alien.


Veg Tea

Per Gallon

2 Tsp Earthworm Castings
1-2 Tsp Ancient Forest Alaskan Humus
1-2 Tsp Earth Juice Hi-Brix Molasses
1 TBSP Liquid Kelp
1-3 Tsp Liquid Karma OR Earth Juice Catalyst
1-2 Tsp EM-1 Microbial Inoculant
1 Tsp Age Old Organics Grow 12-6-6

Adding Mychorrizae is also highly recommended for early and vigorous root development.

Bubble for 48 hours and feed.


**I can not say enough great things about adding EM-1 (Microbial Inoculant) to your recipe. It adds an enormous amount of life to the teas. Slightly on the expensive side (around $60-65/gallon), but one gallon can be converted into 21 gallons of Activated EM by following this simple process:

A gallon of EM-1 bought at the store is the first generation of the EM culture. It has a shelf life of 6 months. Comprised of living organisms, you can reproduce them into a second generation of EM culture, called Activated EM or AEM. This second generation has a shelf life of 4-6 weeks, so plan ahead and only make as much as you need.

To make a gallon of AEM, add:

3/4 cup of EM-1
3/4 cup molasses
Fill the remainder of the container with purified (or simply dechlorinated) water

The fermentation process takes 7-10 days at room temperature. Once fermentation begins, burp each one gallon container once a day. The finished product will have a sweet/sour smell like apple cider, and the pH level should be 3.8 or lower.

To activate larger or smaller quantities of EM-1, use the same ratio:
1:1:20 = 1 part EM-1 - 1 part molasses - 20 parts water

Try it out and get your teas rocking...

Enjoy!
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

Living dead girl
23,596
638
I diddnt know what plant he was using to grow the algae on but thats good to know. I do believe that he was aiming for the nutrients or what have u in the algae also, as he flipped the photo period of the aquarium so that the algae could grow...i think.
Mm.... in FW, that's not how I understand reproduction of microalgal forms, but there could certainly be something going on there that I'm not familiar with. But, the plant he pictures and says that he dries out is Vallisneria, that I can state fairly unequivocally based on the pictures I saw. If it's growing well then microalgae should not be growing on the Vals itself, or it would smother that plant and prevent it from photosynthesizing. The plant (Vals) itself would be where he's drawing the nutrients from, as I understood what was written.

Just trying to make it clear for folks, they may go out there and try to buy a FW macroalgae and those don't exist, at least not for the aquatic ornamentals market, definitely not that I've ever seen. The way I'm interpreting what was written and pictured, I believe the author may be confused about what he's growing in his tank.
 
dextr0

dextr0

1,650
163
http://www.scribd.com/doc/18674011/Blue-Green-Algae-Bio-Fertilizer-Technology

http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/algae-control/spirulina.php
Spirulina Algae

Spirulina is the name of a genus in the order Oscillatoriales. All spirulina species are cyanobacteria, also known as blue-green algae. When you encounter so called “spirulina supplements” in human and animal food, they are actually not derived from true spirulina species but primarily from two members of the genus Arthrospira: Arthrospira platensis and Arthrospira maxima. The reason for this confusion is that Arthrospira platensis and Arthrospira maxima used to be considered a part of the genus Spirulina until they were moved to the genus Arthrospira. Both genera belong to the same order, Oscillatoriales.

In this article we will focus on the species Arthrospira platensis and Arthrospira maxima and not on the true members of the genus Spirulina. We will use the term spirulina for these two species since it is still the dominating term in everyday speech.

Arthrospira platensis and Arthrospira maxima are cyanobacteria that float around freely in the water. In the wild, spirulina is found in lakes with a high pH-value and high levels of carbonate and bicarbonate in tropical and subtropical climates. It can be dried and served as a whole food but is also a popular dietary supplement. You can purchase spirulina flakes, tablets and powder if you wish to add it to your food or to the food of your pets. A lot aquarium creatures love to eat spirulina and are known to benefit from having spirulina in their diet, especially species that feed on algae in the wild.
One of first known records of Spirulina (i.e. Arthrospira algae) being utilized as food by humans comes from Mesoamerica. Spirulina is also believed to have been used as food in North Africa since the 9th century.

Cortez reported that the Aztecs used spirulina as food when he arrived to their empire and there is for instance an illustration in the Florentine Codex that depicts Aztecs harvesting spirulina algae off lakes by using ropes to skim the surface. According to the Florentine Codex, the algae was then dried into square cakes and used as food. According to historians, the Aztecs where not the only ones who harvested spirulina; it was an appreciated source of nutrients for many different people in Mesoamerica. The Aztecs called spirulina teocuitlatl, which roughly translates “excrement of a stone”. They seem to have stopped using spirulina as food during the 16th century. During the 1970s, Mexican company "Sosa Texcoco S.A" established the first large-scale Spirulina production plant in Mexico.

In North Africa, spirulina is believed to have been utilized as food since at least the 9th century Kanem Empire. The Kanem Empire (700 - 1376) comprised not only modern day Chad, but also parts of southern Libya and eastern Niger. Spirulina is still popular in Chad where it is harvested from lakes and ponds in the Lake Chad region and dried into cakes which are used to make broths.

Spirulina algae (i.e. Arthrospira algae) is today cultivated world wide since it is such a popular addition to foods for humans as well as animals. Many producers are found in Asia, especially in China, India, Burma, Pakistan, Taiwan and Thailand, but the United States is also home to a significant production of spirulina for the food industry.

The most common method of spirulina cultivation is to farm the algae in open-channel raceway ponds where paddle-wheels serve to keep the water agitated. Arthrospira platensis is found in South America, Africa and Asia, while Arthrospira maxima is limited to Central America.

Can u tell us more on the Alfalfa?

Im sure your right there tho sea, i dont see much algae growing there.
 
GanjaGardener

GanjaGardener

848
63
Man bless us with some knowledge....
Wow. That's a tall order. :sweating Would it be OK if I just shared some of the info that I've been processing?:icon_dizzy:
Ive been experemting and shit. I learned you dont mix heineken with the FPE
I think the brew's the problem. Have you tried Budweiser? Actually, I've moved entirely away from beer and am running Gatorade now- electrolytes, sugars, excellent flavor selection etc. Lately, I've been adding a few cans of RockStar to the mix and the early results are very promising. Don't quote me on this, but cannabis plants seem to transpire faster when they're loaded on caffeine.:cool0041:

All jesting aside, I'm in a busy cycle- manicuring, transplanting and taking new cuts- am too distracted to get into it ATM but wanted to check in to let you know that I'm here in spirit.
 

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