First Grow Sunset Sherbert And Superglue

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SmithsJunk

SmithsJunk

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I'm using the SeaGreen now that I won from POTM. Friggin awesome stuff. My leaves were really droopy even after trying several different combinations of nutes. After SeaGreen my leaves never sagged again. The microbiologicals broke the nute locks and increased uptake several fold. Before SeaGreen any amount of watering made the girls wilt, now I have to check moisture on a regular basis or they'll dry out. Seems like something that might help with your PM issues. Get them to uptake more of that water, dry out your soil a bit to reduce overnight RH bumps, and bolster their immune systems. The kit with 2oz bottles for $36 could possibly be enough to finish this grow and run your next with no other nutes. Primordial Solutions look expensive on paper but in practice is cheaper than the cheapest nutes I've bought.

If your doing bean runs some adjustments may need to be made. If my plants were sensi then they'd be spot on f^ckin perfect but they're getting a bit purple for the extra couple weeks I need for the beans. It's probably just the cold in my case though. Even with the heater they're often dipping into the upper 40'sF at night.

Nice grow brother, I'm subbed. Thanks for your support on my diary as well.
 
Phylex

Phylex

621
263
SmithsJunk said:
I'm using the SeaGreen now that I won from POTM. Friggin awesome stuff. My leaves were really droopy even after trying several different combinations of nutes. After SeaGreen my leaves never sagged again. The microbiologicals broke the nute locks and increased uptake several fold. Before SeaGreen any amount of watering made the girls wilt, now I have to check moisture on a regular basis or they'll dry out. Seems like something that might help with your PM issues. Get them to uptake more of that water, dry out your soil a bit to reduce overnight RH bumps, and bolster their immune systems. The kit with 2oz bottles for $36 could possibly be enough to finish this grow and run your next with no other nutes. Primordial Solutions look expensive on paper but in practice is cheaper than the cheapest nutes I've bought.

If your doing bean runs some adjustments may need to be made. If my plants were sensi then they'd be spot on f^ckin perfect but they're getting a bit purple for the extra couple weeks I need for the beans. It's probably just the cold in my case though. Even with the heater they're often dipping into the upper 40'sF at night.

Nice grow brother, I'm subbed. Thanks for your support on my diary as well.
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Definitely, and thank you as well. I'm in full sponge mode and I'm try to grab as much information and experience as possible to find out what works for me. I'll look into SeaGreen. I appreciate the heads up. I'm currently starting week four of flower and I'm still scratching my head at what looks to be light bleaching. I had raised the lights up to their highest point. Roughly 23" above the tallest flower, but ranging between 23-28" above the canopy. I expected the bleaching to stop however it looks like it's still getting worse on the affected flowers. They seem to be the flowers that look like their in the most intense lighting from my naked eye. Maybe 15%-20% of them.

I also found yellowing new growth could be iron deficient or lockout. Typically being lockout because tap water, and nutes generally have enough iron in them. I also read iron can lockout above 6.5ph. My PH range is 6.4-6.6. I also figured if it was an iron lockout, all of the plants flowers should be affected. In my case, they're not. It's only a select few tops.

Either way I'm at a loss. So I'm going to flush next watering with a lower PH. I'll most likely bring it down to 6.2-6.3 and then feed with half strength nutes. They've been getting full strength for the last two feedings and 80% before that. If they continue with the bleaching, I might just need to let them do their thing. I really don't know what else it could be and the light is already as high as it could go.

The light is a brand new Hortilux 1000W HPS. But from what I've gathered, 23-28" should be sufficient height above the tops. Maybe a PAR meter is in my future. I'm just not sure yet if the $40 models are accurate and worth it. I'm not trying to spend $100's on one of those toys.
 
Phylex

Phylex

621
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Update: Day 25 Flower

Bleaching: I changed out the light mounts and gained 4.5" of light height. Hopefully this distance is what it needs to correct the issue. I can't imagine 24-27" not being enough. (Pictured)

Trichomes: Finally starting to appear. This is when the fun really begins and watching the flowers develop (Pictured)

Stacking: Just a few shots of the stacking. For not knowing the difference yet of good and bad stacking, my guess is I'm doing alright. (Pictured)

My last lollypop attempt from day 21. I'm sure I could have taken more, but I was scared. lol (Pictured)

Tent Overview (Pictured)
 
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SmithsJunk

SmithsJunk

3,430
263
Phylex said:
Definitely, and thank you as well. I'm in full sponge mode and I'm try to grab as much information and experience as possible to find out what works for me. I'll look into SeaGreen. I appreciate the heads up. I'm currently starting week four of flower and I'm still scratching my head at what looks to be light bleaching. I had raised the lights up to their highest point. Roughly 23" above the tallest flower, but ranging between 23-28" above the canopy. I expected the bleaching to stop however it looks like it's still getting worse on the affected flowers. They seem to be the flowers that look like their in the most intense lighting from my naked eye. Maybe 15%-20% of them.

I also found yellowing new growth could be iron deficient or lockout. Typically being lockout because tap water, and nutes generally have enough iron in them. I also read iron can lockout above 6.5ph. My PH range is 6.4-6.6. I also figured if it was an iron lockout, all of the plants flowers should be affected. In my case, they're not. It's only a select few tops.

Either way I'm at a loss. So I'm going to flush next watering with a lower PH. I'll most likely bring it down to 6.2-6.3 and then feed with half strength nutes. They've been getting full strength for the last two feedings and 80% before that. If they continue with the bleaching, I might just need to let them do their thing. I really don't know what else it could be and the light is already as high as it could go.

The light is a brand new Hortilux 1000W HPS. But from what I've gathered, 23-28" should be sufficient height above the tops. Maybe a PAR meter is in my future. I'm just not sure yet if the $40 models are accurate and worth it. I'm not trying to spend $100's on one of those toys.
Click to expand...

Sorry it took a minute to get back to you. Not great reception the last couple days and must've missed alerts.

Would you do a clear close-up of the leaves you think are iron deficient. Pretty sure at this point I can verify send you in another direction. No expert but iron is pretty easy.
 
Phylex

Phylex

621
263
SmithsJunk said:
Sorry it took a minute to get back to you. Not great reception the last couple days and must've missed alerts.

Would you do a clear close-up of the leaves you think are iron deficient. Pretty sure at this point I can verify send you in another direction. No expert but iron is pretty easy.
Click to expand...

I actually thought they were light bleached and I'm still leaning toward that. However I had to look for a possibility number two because they seemed like they were still getting worse after I raised the light as high as could. It's hard for me to imagine 23-27" light height would cause bleaching. But I don't know much so maybe I'm wrong. Yesterday I did swap out the lighting mounts and gained 4.5" more inches. So now the light is 27-35" inches above the canopy. I hope this helps.

When looking for another possibility of the tops new growth yellowing, I found iron deficient/lock out causes this. In my case if it had to do with iron, it would be lock out. Between my tap water and nutes, they're getting sufficient iron. My PH ranges between 6.4-6.7. I doubt it's iron because if it was, I would think all of the tops would be showing like symptoms vs. only the tops that look like they're in the most intense areas of lighting.

I'll post A thread I started for this issue so you can see some clear pics. I'd like to hear what your thoughts are. I did order the SeaGreen. So when it arrives, I'll begin using it. If it turns out to be iron lock out after all, I'm sure the SeaGreen will help make the iron available.
 
SmithsJunk

SmithsJunk

3,430
263
Here's how you can tell if it's iron, very distinct symptoms. The youngest leaves will be the first with chlorosis. It will start at the base of the leaf and work it's way out to the tips. Here's the key symptom, the veins will remain green until the leaf begins to die. The solutions are to lower the pH below 7 and/or give cal-mag. Sometimes there's an actual iron deficiency but it's rare.

Pot plants tend to share their symptoms in very specific and identifiable ways. It's pretty cool.
 
Madmax

Madmax

4,733
313
Hi mate..to make you feel better ,ive never seen anyone grow sunset sherbet on here well. there might have but i certainly havnt come across it yet.id say you was off to,a bad start from the beginning bud.the clones didnt lookmto flash from the start.id like to see you use a net with smaller squares so you can tuck weave the branches better..
 
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Phylex

Phylex

621
263
Madmax said:
Hi mate..to make you feel better ,ive never seen anyone grow sunset sherbet on here well. there might have but i certainly havnt come across it yet.id say you was off to,a bad start from the beginning bud.the clones didnt lookmto flash from the start.id like to see you use a net with smaller squares so you can tuck weave the branches better..
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You absolutely nailed it. I discovered severe limitations with the net sizing and definitely plan to go smaller the next time I SCROG. My next run since I'm planning more plants will most likely be tomato cages.

Also I agree with the clones. They were noticeably rough. Moving forward I plan on growing from seed or using my own clones. I purchased my first packs during this grow.

While I have had somewhat of a train wreck first grow, I can appreciate it. I've learned a lot of what not to do, what's worked, and what I would do differently next time.
 
SmithsJunk

SmithsJunk

3,430
263
Phylex said:
You absolutely nailed it. I discovered severe limitations with the net sizing and definitely plan to go smaller the next time I SCROG. My next run since I'm planning more plants will most likely be tomato cages.

Also I agree with the clones. They were noticeably rough. Moving forward I plan on growing from seed or using my own clones. I purchased my first packs during this grow.

While I have had somewhat of a train wreck first grow, I can appreciate it. I've learned a lot of what not to do, what's worked, and what I would do differently next time.
Click to expand...

...and that's exactly how we learn. It's what's done with knowledge that separates the bad, the good, and the great growers. Honestly, I think you're doing pretty amazing for how big a bite you took for a first grow. This first indoor has been rough for me too. I can sympathise.
 
Phylex

Phylex

621
263
Update: Pics are from Friday, Day 29 of flower

My last feed on 1/10/19, Day 28 was full strength Emerald Harvest, PH 6.2 PPM 890. Run Off was 6.5 ph with a PPM range of 1050-1100. Every watering I get about 25% runoff.

So yesterday, Day 31, I watered with some new products and 1/4 strength Emerald Harvest minus the typical Emerald Goddess in my line up due to the addition of SeaGreen. I used Bloom A & B, Honey Chome, and King Kola 1/4 strength. I received a free sample of Mammoth P. Since I'm not familiar with this product or how and when to use it, I dosed it 1ml per gallon. It recommended 2.5 ml per gallon. After searching this site, I only found huge debates of those that either love it or hate it. So I went light with it. It was most likely a one time use for this particular cycle unless someone can convince me to keep using it and explain the optimal time and safe dosage to use. I read some reviews on this site about mutating flower growth after its use. I was also recommended SeaGreen. It arrived in time for the watering and I added that at 3ml per 5 gallons. The recommended dosage was 1-3ml per gallon. Again, I went light because I wanted to see how the plants reacted to these new supplements.

The watering was PH 6.2 with a PPM of 380. The run off was 6.5ph with a PPM range of 640-660.

Temps still hanging it at 74.7-66.7 degrees with an RH range of 50-60%.

Each picture is a row of 3 plants in 3 gallon plastic pots. Six plants total in the tent. 6 week veg.
 
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SmithsJunk

SmithsJunk

3,430
263
Phylex said:
Update: Pics are from Friday, Day 29 of flower

My last feed on 1/10/19, Day 28 was full strength Emerald Harvest, PH 6.2 PPM 890. Run Off was 6.5 ph with a PPM range of 1050-1100. Every watering I get about 25% runoff.

So yesterday, Day 31, I watered with some new products and 1/4 strength Emerald Harvest minus the typical Emerald Goddess in my line up due to the addition of SeaGreen. I used Bloom A & B, Honey Chome, and King Kola 1/4 strength. I received a free sample of Mammoth P. Since I'm not familiar with this product or how and when to use it, I dosed it 1ml per gallon. It recommended 2.5 ml per gallon. After searching this site, I only found huge debates of those that either love it or hate it. So I went light with it. It was most likely a one time use for this particular cycle unless someone can convince me to keep using it and explain the optimal time and safe dosage to use. I read some reviews on this site about mutating flower growth after its use. I was also recommended SeaGreen. It arrived in time for the watering and I added that at 3ml per 5 gallons. The recommended dosage was 1-3ml per gallon. Again, I went light because I wanted to see how the plants reacted to these new supplements.

The watering was PH 6.2 with a PPM of 380. The run off was 6.5ph with a PPM range of 640-660.

Temps still hanging it at 74.7-66.7 degrees with an RH range of 50-60%.

Each picture is a row of 3 plants in 3 gallon plastic pots. Six plants total in the tent. 6 week veg.
Click to expand...

Wow, those look awesome dude. That's gonna be a nice harvest.
 
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