Grow Room Electrical

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ttystikk

ttystikk

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I can only speak for the distance limits; Lumatek has set a suspiciously short distance limit for their products. Mag. ballasts will go 45-60 feet, and if there's a bit of trouble with one starting, I'm told a little dab of dielectric grease on the tip of the bulb's base solves it.
 
hiboy

hiboy

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Thanks for the response Hiboy

My ballasts are in a different location, outside the room itself. Too far for the lamp cords to reach. So what I'm trying to do is from my ballasts, run an lamp extension cord by sold by Sunlight for their reflectors to a centralized location in the ceiling and plug in my reflector cords from there. It just looks a lot cleaner and more professional. Also its easier to swap out ballasts and reflectors should anything happen.

I'm just wondering if there is a box out there that I can use to mount flush to the ceiling that can house the extension cords and use a face plate to cover it and from the outside look likes its a wall plug.

My second question that came up while I was brainstorming is will the length of the cords affect the performance of the ballast. If I recall correctly, Lumateks recommends that you do not have more than 30 of wiring from the ballast to the hoods for proper performance. This worries me
u
I would just run the extension cords from sunlight and just silicon up around the cord if your running it thru any grow room walls. Cutting the cord will only make worse connnections from the factory, my choice would be to not cut and leave them alone
I think tyy hit it right with the distances.

hb
 
fishwhistle

fishwhistle

4,686
263
Ur good on wire size for that 4000 watts, your 10 guage is rated for 30 amps, and ur unde 20. Are u going to plug a controller into your 3 prong 30 amp outlet? Plastics will work , dont sweat that one, but metal is def. better

hb
yeah i am going to plug in a controller most likely powermox dpc7500 or sentinel.The walls are not sheeted yet and i used plastic boxes same as all my 120,do you think i should change those two plastic boxes out for metal?All the rest of the 240 goes to metal ac disconnect boxes.
 
hiboy

hiboy

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yeah i am going to plug in a controller most likely powermox dpc7500 or sentinel.The walls are not sheeted yet and i used plastic boxes same as all my 120,do you think i should change those two plastic boxes out for metal?All the rest of the 240 goes to metal ac disconnect boxes.
Plastic boxes are rated for 240v so ur safe that way. If your plastic boxes are going to be behind the drywall then your fine, but surface mounted boxes should be metal
hb
 
OGONLY

OGONLY

752
63
Whats up HB? Just cruising around trying to see what I may have missed recently and I noticed your grow room electrical thread has become a Sticky. Congrats my friend!

Props to you for all the good advice you give out free of charge. Its great to have a qualified expert to bounce ideas off of and to get advice from. Electricity is serious business and you know yours well. Keep up the good work Papa Hiboy!
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

6,892
313
^^^^^ Hear, Hear!! I like the emphasis on safety, too- it's very embarassing to have your house burn down because of faulty wiring, and then be led away in handcuffs when the fire dept discovers your grow... and yeah, it happens, a lot. The very first firefighter I spoke to about growing and fires told me he'd personally been on several of these exact calls.
 
fishwhistle

fishwhistle

4,686
263
Plastic boxes are rated for 240v so ur safe that way. If your plastic boxes are going to be behind the drywall then your fine, but surface mounted boxes should be metal
hb
Their behind 1/2'' osb so im good to go and i agree hiboy is a great resource to have here and i have to mention cannabis john over in the a/c thread too,thanks guys.
 
hiboy

hiboy

2,347
113
Whats up HB? Just cruising around trying to see what I may have missed recently and I noticed your grow room electrical thread has become a Sticky. Congrats my friend!

Props to you for all the good advice you give out free of charge. Its great to have a qualified expert to bounce ideas off of and to get advice from. Electricity is serious business and you know yours well. Keep up the good work Papa Hiboy!
Thanks OGONLY,
You know where im at if u need any help..literally.
Thanks for all the hard work youve done and all the help back at ya
hb
 
hiboy

hiboy

2,347
113
Their behind 1/2'' osb so im good to go and i agree hiboy is a great resource to have here and i have to mention cannabis john over in the a/c thread too,thanks guys.
Thanks fishw,
Yes Johns great help and info,
im taking his advice and hopefully soon will get a mini split either a friedrich or mitsu, which he recommends...
cant go wrong with either
hb
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

6,892
313
Thanks fishw,
Yes Johns great help and info,
im taking his advice and hopefully soon will get a mini split either a friedrich or mitsu, which he recommends...
cant go wrong with either
hb

Look into water cooling, especially if you run chillers for your hydro systems. I couldn't be happier with my single chiller setup that cools multiple rooms and systems. I asked CJ why he wasn't more enthusiastic about these, and he basically said he's there to help people make the stuff they buy work rather than trying to influence their design choices. I respect that. Meanwhile, I'm happy to be the guy singing the praises of water cooling, lol.
 
StickiestAbyss

StickiestAbyss

16
3
Fine line ur at.
#4 is code for what u want, but if moola is a problem u can put a 60 amp breaker on #6 wire.
Ideal would be #4 x 2 = hot hot, derate the neutral to #6 since ur all at 240v basically, and the ground at #6 also. It could go to #10 if ur really hurting.
#4 is rated for a 90 amp breaker. You would have room to expand also.
hb


thank you hiboy! another successful setup thanks to your advice on 3 occasions now!
 
hiboy

hiboy

2,347
113
Look into water cooling, especially if you run chillers for your hydro systems. I couldn't be happier with my single chiller setup that cools multiple rooms and systems. I asked CJ why he wasn't more enthusiastic about these, and he basically said he's there to help people make the stuff they buy work rather than trying to influence their design choices. I respect that. Meanwhile, I'm happy to be the guy singing the praises of water cooling, lol.
I have a 1 hp chiller still in the crate, along a ucxl12 collecting dust in the garage. My partner is afraid change. So here sit with a RW set up in tables. Maybe 1 day i will be able to see it flow.
How does ur chiller set up work?
hb
 
kushjunkie

kushjunkie

14
1
Look into water cooling, especially if you run chillers for your hydro systems. I couldn't be happier with my single chiller setup that cools multiple rooms and systems. I asked CJ why he wasn't more enthusiastic about these, and he basically said he's there to help people make the stuff they buy work rather than trying to influence their design choices. I respect that. Meanwhile, I'm happy to be the guy singing the praises of water cooling, lol.

Any particular brands or units you would recommend for cooling the air in larger rooms?
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

6,892
313
I have a 1 hp chiller still in the crate, along a ucxl12 collecting dust in the garage. My partner is afraid change. So here sit with a RW set up in tables. Maybe 1 day i will be able to see it flow.
How does ur chiller set up work?
hb

RW? Not sure what that is by the abbreviation. I understand about people being afraid of change, and sometimes that's the right approach. The rest of the time, it's self limiting- but that's my own bias talking, because I freely admit my failing is usually trying too much too fast. In my case, that often leads to me learning a lot, by NOT getting the results I wanted!

Any particular brands or units you would recommend for cooling the air in larger rooms?

I have pretty limited experience with different brands of chiller. Basically only I've played with two approaches; a little chiller for every pot so to speak, and the big 2 Ton Chillking 'window mount' unit I got from a fellow farmer who was fed up with trying to make it work for him. This chiller draws 8.5amps at 240v, and it cools everything I've got while running less than half the time.

The way I made the system work is a bit involved, so bear with me;
Two things you gotta avoid at all costs; one is running dry cuz that'll kill your pump, and the other is loss of flow through a running chiller, cuz it will freeze and destroy itself. I got a 55 gallon drum reservoir, and placed my 1/2 hp Flotec pump underneath it so it would ALWAYS be primed. Side note; I had to buy nylon reinforced hose to run from res. to pump inlet, because the thing develops so much suction it was sucking weaker hoses flat- and killing flow. This also caused the pump to cavitate, which if allowed to continue will destroy the impellor.

The main 1" outlet from the pump goes to a splitter/reducer, then 3/4" lines go on to a couple custom manifolds I kitbashed from Pex brand 6 way copper manifold body and a half dozen 1/2" valves. I used a shitload of hose clamps and tubing to assemble all this. These become the 'inlet' manifolds, or the cold side.

From the inflow manifolds (one in each main room), I run 1/2" lines to 8" Ice Boxes with 8" maxfans blowing through them and hung from the ceiling. These fans are run by the environmental controller, and cool sealed growroom air very effectively. More 1/2" lines go to 15' copper coils in my RDWC (recirculating deep water culture) system, it's much like a UC. Water constantly flows over these coils and around the system, keeping roots nice n cool. I even built a circuit for a cooling coil that my aerocloner sits on, to help pull heat from its waterpump.

On the return side, I used more of the same 6 way manifolds and valves, so all the circuits go back to one of these manifolds. This are the 'outflow' manifolds, or the warm side. The valves are on both the inflow and outflow manifolds, so I can isolate any circuit I want and remove it for cleaning, replacing gear, moving stuff around, etc, without ever needing to shut the system itself down. I have a few extra spots on the manifolds to add more circuits to later, again, without needing to shut the pump and chiller down.

Return water flows from the manifolds through 3/4" lines directly to the 55 gallon reservoir. They do NOT get 'collected' with outflow from other manifolds, to keep return pressure lower than inflow pressure.

So where's the chiller fit in, you ask? On the faceplate of the flotec pump, there are a couple of nuts that you can screw fittings into. One of these feeds a 1/2" line that runs directly to the chiller and its return line also drops into the 55 gallon reservoir. This way the chiller always sees water directly from the pump so water starvation or slow flow issues are minimized.

The water running through the chiller system never interacts directly with water anywhere else. This allows you to run propylene glycol in 50% solution to improve performance even further, if you so desire. Do NOT run ethylene glycol because it's toxic and any leak into a hydro system would be disastrous. If you want to go this extra step (I didn't), I still recommend you run straight water until your whole system has been running for a few days- this will allow you to find and fix the inevitable leaks. The hardest leak to find is the one connecting your cooling coils in the hydro system- unless you lift the coil out of the water and inspect it, the only way you'll know it's leaking is when your system mysteriously overflows! Yeah, made that mistake too, lol.

Results? Shockingly good! Seriously. I don't have an issue with AC drying out my rooms, or having to constantly chase after the maintenance needs of a half dozen smaller cooling units. I run my water at about 60 degrees, this is just high enough to eliminate sweating on the manifolds and hoses or water spraying out of the Ice Boxes. For condensation/ dehumidification functions, water needs to be colder than this, Hydro Innovations runs inlet water for their air handlers at 45. Because of this, I chose to run a separate dehumidifier. 60 degrees also happens to be perfect for cooling an RDWC system, because I want that water to stay at 62-64. This way, I don't need to run any thermal switch on the cooling coils for them, it's constant flow.

Efficiency is also very good, as chillers, cooling dense water, tend to be about twice as efficient as AC. This goes double if your climate is arid and/or high altitude- AC needs mass in the air for it to work properly and if it's not there efficiency goes to hell fast- and in any case the cool won't carry further than the front of the unit. By contrast, cold water will cool anywhere you can run tubing to, even 50 or 100 feet away if necessary.

Okay, so it's a pain to set up. There is additional up front cost for hoses, manifolds, fittings, valves, pump, res., etc. You'll start making that investment back the minute you turn it on, and eventually the savings will pay for the whole thing by comparison to using AC. On the bright side, if you're running hydro, you're already used to dealing with circulating water, right?

If all this sounds like I'm a walking advertisement for water cooling, well, all I can say is that it proved that it's a better solution and thus made me a believer. Hell, I'm even gonna rig up another Icebox and Maxfan in my living room and use it to keep my tushie cool all summer!
 
hiboy

hiboy

2,347
113
RW? Not sure what that is by the abbreviation. I understand about people being afraid of change, and sometimes that's the right approach. The rest of the time, it's self limiting- but that's my own bias talking, because I freely admit my failing is usually trying too much too fast. In my case, that often leads to me learning a lot, by NOT getting the results I wanted!



I have pretty limited experience with different brands of chiller. Basically only I've played with two approaches; a little chiller for every pot so to speak, and the big 2 Ton Chillking 'window mount' unit I got from a fellow farmer who was fed up with trying to make it work for him. This chiller draws 8.5amps at 240v, and it cools everything I've got while running less than half the time.

The way I made the system work is a bit involved, so bear with me;
Two things you gotta avoid at all costs; one is running dry cuz that'll kill your pump, and the other is loss of flow through a running chiller, cuz it will freeze and destroy itself. I got a 55 gallon drum reservoir, and placed my 1/2 hp Flotec pump underneath it so it would ALWAYS be primed. Side note; I had to buy nylon reinforced hose to run from res. to pump inlet, because the thing develops so much suction it was sucking weaker hoses flat- and killing flow. This also caused the pump to cavitate, which if allowed to continue will destroy the impellor.

The main 1" outlet from the pump goes to a splitter/reducer, then 3/4" lines go on to a couple custom manifolds I kitbashed from Pex brand 6 way copper manifold body and a half dozen 1/2" valves. I used a shitload of hose clamps and tubing to assemble all this. These become the 'inlet' manifolds, or the cold side.

From the inflow manifolds (one in each main room), I run 1/2" lines to 8" Ice Boxes with 8" maxfans blowing through them and hung from the ceiling. These fans are run by the environmental controller, and cool sealed growroom air very effectively. More 1/2" lines go to 15' copper coils in my RDWC (recirculating deep water culture) system, it's much like a UC. Water constantly flows over these coils and around the system, keeping roots nice n cool. I even built a circuit for a cooling coil that my aerocloner sits on, to help pull heat from its waterpump.

On the return side, I used more of the same 6 way manifolds and valves, so all the circuits go back to one of these manifolds. This are the 'outflow' manifolds, or the warm side. The valves are on both the inflow and outflow manifolds, so I can isolate any circuit I want and remove it for cleaning, replacing gear, moving stuff around, etc, without ever needing to shut the system itself down. I have a few extra spots on the manifolds to add more circuits to later, again, without needing to shut the pump and chiller down.

Return water flows from the manifolds through 3/4" lines directly to the 55 gallon reservoir. They do NOT get 'collected' with outflow from other manifolds, to keep return pressure lower than inflow pressure.

So where's the chiller fit in, you ask? On the faceplate of the flotec pump, there are a couple of nuts that you can screw fittings into. One of these feeds a 1/2" line that runs directly to the chiller and its return line also drops into the 55 gallon reservoir. This way the chiller always sees water directly from the pump so water starvation or slow flow issues are minimized.

The water running through the chiller system never interacts directly with water anywhere else. This allows you to run propylene glycol in 50% solution to improve performance even further, if you so desire. Do NOT run ethylene glycol because it's toxic and any leak into a hydro system would be disastrous. If you want to go this extra step (I didn't), I still recommend you run straight water until your whole system has been running for a few days- this will allow you to find and fix the inevitable leaks. The hardest leak to find is the one connecting your cooling coils in the hydro system- unless you lift the coil out of the water and inspect it, the only way you'll know it's leaking is when your system mysteriously overflows! Yeah, made that mistake too, lol.

Results? Shockingly good! Seriously. I don't have an issue with AC drying out my rooms, or having to constantly chase after the maintenance needs of a half dozen smaller cooling units. I run my water at about 60 degrees, this is just high enough to eliminate sweating on the manifolds and hoses or water spraying out of the Ice Boxes. For condensation/ dehumidification functions, water needs to be colder than this, Hydro Innovations runs inlet water for their air handlers at 45. Because of this, I chose to run a separate dehumidifier. 60 degrees also happens to be perfect for cooling an RDWC system, because I want that water to stay at 62-64. This way, I don't need to run any thermal switch on the cooling coils for them, it's constant flow.

Efficiency is also very good, as chillers, cooling dense water, tend to be about twice as efficient as AC. This goes double if your climate is arid and/or high altitude- AC needs mass in the air for it to work properly and if it's not there efficiency goes to hell fast- and in any case the cool won't carry further than the front of the unit. By contrast, cold water will cool anywhere you can run tubing to, even 50 or 100 feet away if necessary.

Okay, so it's a pain to set up. There is additional up front cost for hoses, manifolds, fittings, valves, pump, res., etc. You'll start making that investment back the minute you turn it on, and eventually the savings will pay for the whole thing by comparison to using AC. On the bright side, if you're running hydro, you're already used to dealing with circulating water, right?

If all this sounds like I'm a walking advertisement for water cooling, well, all I can say is that it proved that it's a better solution and thus made me a believer. Hell, I'm even gonna rig up another Icebox and Maxfan in my living room and use it to keep my tushie cool all summer!

that is pretty involved. them ice boxes are spendy i remember when researching them in the past.
I think a minisplit will do me best at my small location, thats a big upgrade from the dual portables that are there. thanks for all the info. oh yeah the rw means rockwoll, im not running any dwc or undercurrent yet

hb
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

6,892
313
that is pretty involved. them ice boxes are spendy i remember when researching them in the past.
I think a minisplit will do me best at my small location, thats a big upgrade from the dual portables that are there. thanks for all the info. oh yeah the rw means rockwoll, im not running any dwc or undercurrent yet

hb

The Ice Boxes are just glorified automotive heater cores with plastic shrouds. If you're on a budget, you can go to Autozone and get some for a Chevy, they run about $40 each.

Your setup is a great example why one size doesn't fit all. The chiller doesn't make a great deal of sense for you until you're running a UC, but once you do you're likely to see substantial energy savings.
 
hiboy

hiboy

2,347
113
The Ice Boxes are just glorified automotive heater cores with plastic shrouds. If you're on a budget, you can go to Autozone and get some for a Chevy, they run about $40 each.

Your setup is a great example why one size doesn't fit all. The chiller doesn't make a great deal of sense for you until you're running a UC, but once you do you're likely to see substantial energy savings.
Yep i totally agree. Once i get all my projects sorted out maybe i'll get that UC going.
hb
 
GanjaAL

GanjaAL

865
63
Hey brother... I ran a rail system on a pully for my lights. They are adjust a wings and was wondering is there any kind of insolation for the cords as the rail is metal and I am sure there will be heat transfer... can you suggest anything?

Thanks and will post some pics when I get the chance. I got the hand crank gator one.
 
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