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I apologize but as a no till gardener I was concerned of the negative soil conditions. I wanted to prevent that issue
I have no problem responding to your question. No-till farming was intended to be something that was done outside where there were seasonal rains that washed away excess ions, namely sodium. The problem I've noticed with some indoor, or container garden, no-till farmers is that there is no runoff ever, while organic matter top dresses are continually applied. Even though the inputs are organic, many are marine based such as seabird guano or fish meal, or kelp meal, all of which may have rather high amounts of naturally occurring sodium. If the container is never watered to excess the sodium will never leave the system and will build up. The excess sodium displaces other beneficial cations, and even may cause chlorosis or necrosis. Also bacteria themselves are creating acids which are bringing into solution the required plant nutrients, but after a certain amount of runs these acids build up and create acidic soil conditions unless regular liming occurs.I apologize but as a no till gardener I was concerned of the negative soil conditions. I wanted to prevent that issue
That was a better explanation! i truly yours and box is a better option then whats readily available. I have nothing against you guys, I just didn't like how he said its better cause that's wrong. There's a lot of organic growers that it is better than though... unfortunately organic growing has its myths, false info and just not a real understanding of what's going on. I do believe a majority of organic growers would be better off using yours or box or any other similar products.Brazel, this is a different person from Primordial Solutions now responding. I just read this thread and I wanted to say that I totally appreciate the way you farm and I thank you for your interest in our products. I believe the one thing the previous guy failed to mention to put his point in context was simply that Sea Green accelerates natural processes... it is first and foremost an accelerator of nutrient uptake. It has saprotrophic bacteria to unlock organic matter at a more rapid rate to be plant-available. It essentially performs the same role as compost tea in a gardening program.
View attachment 762413
The photo above is our product straight out of the bottle, diluted 5x. With 15 trillion organisms per mL, it has nearly 4 billion organisms applied at 1mL/gal. Possessing all the functional groups, it allows for any missing niches to be bolstered.View attachment 762415
Anyhow, thought you'd like to see some data. You're growing style is awesome, and no one "needs" any products. I know people dry farming and literally only applying rock dust. They don't get the smashing yields, but their quality is top notch. We just bring concentrated products to market that speed up natural processes, increase production and encourage full genetic expression of all secondary characteristics by allowing the root exudates to feed the appropriate organisms to solubilize the desired nutrient when the plants need it.
Keep up your good farming. Best wishes to you.
Everything you describe is provided by not proper no till. No run off is correct but only top dress twice a year with neem and kelp. No guano yes kelp. Some of the homies are rocking 22 cycles over seven years with just water, top dress between cycles every once in awhile and foliar. We duplicate the outdoors, worms, roly poly, hypo miles, mulch, decay, nutrients the plant uses goes back in by chop and drop.. it's SFW complete circle.I have no problem responding to your question. No-till farming was intended to be something that was done outside where there were seasonal rains that washed away excess ions, namely sodium. The problem I've noticed with some indoor, or container garden, no-till farmers is that there is no runoff ever, while organic matter top dresses are continually applied. Even though the inputs are organic, many are marine based such as seabird guano or fish meal, or kelp meal, all of which may have rather high amounts of naturally occurring sodium. If the container is never watered to excess the sodium will never leave the system and will build up. The excess sodium displaces other beneficial cations, and even may cause chlorosis or necrosis. Also bacteria themselves are creating acids which are bringing into solution the required plant nutrients, but after a certain amount of runs these acids build up and create acidic soil conditions unless regular liming occurs.
When we mentioned that it can alleviate some of the harmful conditions that may arise out of no-till farming we are referring specifically to excess sodium. Sea Green contains halotrophic and chemotrophic bacteria which will immobilize sodium ions and buffer them from the rhizosphere. It's not a permanent fix but it will work pretty well for a long while.
Of course both of these issues can be alleviated through periodic flushing as if it were a winter rain. Though most indoor or container no-till farmers I have encountered do not incorporate such a practice into their regimen.
I hope this sheds light on to why that statement was made. We are big fans of Masanobu Fukuoka and respect no till farming very much.
Yeah, what do you wanna see? I don't have a journal but i post pics in othersBrazel do you have any pics or your work? Finished flowers? A room? Just curious.
I want to first off tell you I understand where your product is extremely beneficial to some.I have no problem responding to your question. No-till farming was intended to be something that was done outside where there were seasonal rains that washed away excess ions, namely sodium. The problem I've noticed with some indoor, or container garden, no-till farmers is that there is no runoff ever, while organic matter top dresses are continually applied. Even though the inputs are organic, many are marine based such as seabird guano or fish meal, or kelp meal, all of which may have rather high amounts of naturally occurring sodium. If the container is never watered to excess the sodium will never leave the system and will build up. The excess sodium displaces other beneficial cations, and even may cause chlorosis or necrosis. Also bacteria themselves are creating acids which are bringing into solution the required plant nutrients, but after a certain amount of runs these acids build up and create acidic soil conditions unless regular liming occurs.
When we mentioned that it can alleviate some of the harmful conditions that may arise out of no-till farming we are referring specifically to excess sodium. Sea Green contains halotrophic and chemotrophic bacteria which will immobilize sodium ions and buffer them from the rhizosphere. It's not a permanent fix but it will work pretty well for a long while.
Of course both of these issues can be alleviated through periodic flushing as if it were a winter rain. Though most indoor or container no-till farmers I have encountered do not incorporate such a practice into their regimen.
I hope this sheds light on to why that statement was made. We are big fans of Masanobu Fukuoka and respect no till farming very much.
I want to first off tell you I understand where your product is extremely beneficial to some.
Have you researched indoor no till in depth? The largest possible problem isn't high nitrates as nitrates are made available as needed. Ammonia > ammonium nitrite> ammonium nitrate. In order for ammonia to be converted to salt hydrogen is required. The plant exudes protease and urease to attract specific nitrogen fixing bacteria as they are required to cause the conversion.
As humus builds so does CEC. More carbonates build up over time. High quality worm castings will carry a ph of 6.8.
Soil doesn't become more acidic because as said hydrogen is utilized in the nitrite>nitrate conversion and you have a plethora of carbonates stored away.
I dont disagree that fish hydrolysate is a great innoculant. If that's what the product is thats all you had to say.
Just trying to help you understand a no till growers understanding and perspective in future endeavours. We focus on carbon. Nitrogen follows.
In general, I notice most people just can't help themselves but to overdo almost every aspect of everything. People over water, people over fertilize, etc. Based on the fact that there are elements leaving the system from the plant that is being harvested and not being composted back, there is some requirement to add inputs, but people overdo it.I am a man of truth and I must say you have a lot of life. I get what you're doing and it's great because some people do like the convenience factor while still being able to utilize the soil food web.
I follow Clackamas coot. His amendments contain almost 0 sodium. Nova Scotia cold water kelp meal, if properly washed, contains no sodium. Kelp is awesome because it accumulates every single element on earth...except sodium.
Not a loaded question at all but what are the farmers topdressing and why are they adding more to the system? It's a nutrient loop method.
I have found Seagreen is most effective for increasing growth as a soil drench. Lots of people do foliar spray it. As far as Gibberellic acid, as long as you are using it at the recommended dosage, mixing the 2 shouldn't be a problem. The product that is best for foliar spraying, especially during flower, is Trueblooms. It's got a higher microbial count, along with PGRs that speed up the transition from veg to flower and it increases flowering spots.
Is sea green like og biowar? Cap bennies?No, you just kill lots of different species of microbes if you add before you brew due to not all microbes liking the brewing process. It doesn't technically hurt anything, it just lessens the amount of life you get in the end.