Protecting My First Outdoor Crop

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Gardenholic

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Protecting my first outdoor crop
Protecting my first outdoor crop 2
Protecting my first outdoor crop 3
Hey friends!

I started these 4 plants indoors back in March and moved them outside at the end of May. They have really taken off and are starting to bud. All four are females (Two Boo Berries and a d-dnl from CosaSeeds and a Rainmaker from Ethos.)

They seem to be doing great so far. Each one is in 10 gallons of coast of ME stonington blend. I sprayed about 30 days ago with an organicide and may do it once more as I'm starting to notice small amounts of leaf damage from inchworms and other various bugs.

Will these eventually need to be netted or caged? I have a couple of indoor grows under my belt, but the plants were less than half this size!

Any advice or tips on what else I could do to protect these babies for the next 8-10 weeks is greatly appreciated!!
 
SpiderK

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if you get strong winds or rain in oct yes i would toss a net over them.
 
GT21

GT21

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View attachment 727159 View attachment 727160 View attachment 727161 Hey friends!

I started these 4 plants indoors back in March and moved them outside at the end of May. They have really taken off and are starting to bud. All four are females (Two Boo Berries and a d-dnl from CosaSeeds and a Rainmaker from Ethos.)

They seem to be doing great so far. Each one is in 10 gallons of coast of ME stonington blend. I sprayed about 30 days ago with an organicide and may do it once more as I'm starting to notice small amounts of leaf damage from inchworms and other various bugs.

Will these eventually need to be netted or caged? I have a couple of indoor grows under my belt, but the plants were less than half this size!

Any advice or tips on what else I could do to protect these babies for the next 8-10 weeks is greatly appreciated!!
You will get a lot of broken branches with no cage or anything

Piss around the area as much as possible to fend off deer and when you get your hair cut keep the clipping and sprinkle around outside of grow
 
Gardenholic

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I was thinking about spreading the plants out to the 4 corners of the wooden platform they are on. From there, I want to find a way to surround the whole platform with caging as well as some netting around the individual plants to keep branches from breaking once they get some weight on them.

Any ideas on my most cost effective way to do this? I could drive some wooden stakes into the ground around the perimeter and staple the caging, but I want to make sure whatever I do is secure until harvest
 
Gardenholic

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A cage not only protects but by pulling the branches thru the cage much more canopy is obtained. So much so that we have to throw a net over the already caged plant. Your plants look great.
When you say "throw a net over" what's your go to for netting, and so you literally just lay it over, or do you attach it somewhere?


My other big concern is pests. The only thing I've noticed so far is the tiny inch worms, but they are leaving behind a silk web on a few leaves as well as eating them causing minor leaf damage. Is there anything else I can do besides spray with organicide? I released prey mantis aboutba week ago, but I haven't seen them around.
 
Underthesun

Underthesun

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I think you should use Spinosad and or BT (bacillus thuringiensis) for the larvea.

You should cage them or net them. Many ways to skin that cat. You just want your branches to grow through a net/screen/fence whatever that will space out your branches and support them. It just needs to be strong/taught enough to support the branches. Just tossing a net over them without pulling it tight doesn't seem like it would work very well. It serves the same purpose as a tomato cage. Ever seen a tomato plant without a cage, all the tomato branches are all laying on the ground and getting ate up by bugs.
 
Underthesun

Underthesun

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Also when is the first frost in your area? What temps do you have in September - October? Do you still have plenty of sunshine in September and Oct?

You may want to consider a way to cover them from frost to let them go a few weeks longer.

Looks good!
 
chickenman

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Game fence 8 foot tall wrap around pull branches threw.
Can you run heaters to them if so if there a frost warning cover and heat. T posts driven in ground to fence in deck would be ideal, wrap and heat entire deck couple space heaters would do.
Again game fence is good chit mon..
 
Gardenholic

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Also when is the first frost in your area? What temps do you have in September - October? Do you still have plenty of sunshine in September and Oct?

You may want to consider a way to cover them from frost to let them go a few weeks longer.

Looks good!
Our first frost is around the 3rd week of October, and we'll be getting just short of 11 hours of daylight by then. It is pretty windy in my area, so I'm definitely going to get them caged ASAP.
Ideally, I'd love to cage in the entire perimeter of the deck, with the option to cover with poly and add a heater in case we get a few cold days in early October.

I'm pretty handy, but I've never been a great builder. I live in a place where supplies are tough to get, especially large items like posts, fencing etc.

I'm sure a lot can be ordered online.
Game fence 8 foot tall wrap around pull branches threw.
Can you run heaters to them if so if there a frost warning cover and heat. T posts driven in ground to fence in deck would be ideal, wrap and heat entire deck couple space heaters would do.
Again game fence is good chit mon..
How far should the Tstakes be spread apart? Do you have a link to a specific type of fencing that is cost effective and will get the job done? Would I just drive the 6' stakes about 2' into the ground and attach the bottom half of the 8' roll of fencing to the stakes?

Sorry for all the dumb questions. I just want to make sure this is something that gets done right, and can be moved to a new area in the future when we move.
 
chickenman

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I just wrap the plant no t posts..use landscape staples to secure into ground...
Game fencing it is commoningly called will take pic.....
 
BudBogart

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When you say "throw a net over" what's your go to for netting, and so you literally just lay it over, or do you attach it somewhere?


My other big concern is pests. The only thing I've noticed so far is the tiny inch worms, but they are leaving behind a silk web on a few leaves as well as eating them causing minor leaf damage. Is there anything else I can do besides spray with organicide? I released prey mantis aboutba week ago, but I haven't seen them around.
I recommend a 4" by 4" 5' high 3' diameter wire cage. It doesn't necessarily need to be staked. Having so many branches poking thru will anchor the cage in all but the greatest storms.
Then, if the branches pulled throw the cage continue to grow longer and get big heavy buds on them, you should net them. Netting is thin, cheap 6" by 6" plastic. I use 6' high. I just reach the netting to the top of the plant and wrap the plant snuggly with the net. The buds will hold the netting in place, the netting will give some cohesiveness to the plant. The netting is only necessary should the plant outgrow its cage.
I used cages and netting in my grow listed at the bottom of my post. It would give a good idea of what I'm talking about.
 
Underthesun

Underthesun

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Good info on the netting. Thanks Budbogart and Chickenman. I always assumed you needed to stake it out to make it work right. But it would make sense that the branches and net support eachother.
 
below frigid

below frigid

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Spinosad for wormy critters, Hortonova Trellis. Cheap on Amazon. Trellis by it's self will help but your strain looks to have thin branch structure so it may have difficulty supporting it's self. You could also build square supports out of PVC with corner fittings and 3/4 inch pvc pipe then drape trellis over,use zip ties to attach trellis to pvc, if windy in your area attach pvc to deck with plumbers tape and screws. http://pvcplans.com/
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_...=Hortonova+trellis,aps,936&crid=3P1FKO4CMYZ84
 
Gardenholic

Gardenholic

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I'm going to buy a roll of 6' caging sometime this week. I have a heavy duty stapler and will use the longest staples available to attach the fencing directly to the deck at the bottom. I'm hoping with enough staples that I won't have to worry about the whole cage topping over.

I will add netting if the buds grow too far out of the caging as extra support up through harvest.
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I'm a little nervous about first frost, but we are still about 9 weeks away and losing daylight fast. All of the plants are showing budlets, so I'm confident that they will be ready by the second week of October. Just have to hope for no surprise frosts!

We are very close to the ocean so our temps hold steady above 50 for a bit until the water starts to cool.

I also plan on using the BT for the caterpillars. I've noticed all sorts of bugs on these things, and I'm pretty sure nature is taking care of itself (besides the caterpillars)

There was a ladybug hanging out on the leaf today. What other pest control/mildew preventatives can I be doing now to prevent problems right before harvest?
 
jumpincactus

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When you say "throw a net over" what's your go to for netting, and so you literally just lay it over, or do you attach it somewhere?


My other big concern is pests. The only thing I've noticed so far is the tiny inch worms, but they are leaving behind a silk web on a few leaves as well as eating them causing minor leaf damage. Is there anything else I can do besides spray with organicide? I released prey mantis aboutba week ago, but I haven't seen them around.

Inchworm Information

While many varieties of inchworm go by the name “caterpillar,” the term “inchworm” applies to a larvae of the moth family Geometridae, which, according to Ask the Exterminator, contains up to 35,000 species. The Columbia Encyclopedia describes inchworms, also known as cankerworms, as black, brown or green creatures, so named because of their size, that often display lumps or uneven projections as a twig-like camouflage. This harmless-looking insect does considerable damage to trees and vegetables.

Locomotion
Inchworms have fewer legs than most varieties of caterpillar, claiming the normal three pairs at the front end but as few as two pairs of appendages known as prolegs toward the rear. As a result, they have a distinctive way of propelling themselves forward. According to the Columbia Encyclopedia, an inchworm will grip the surface with its forelegs and push its rear portion forward, causing the middle part of its body to elevate, then push its front portion forward while using the prolegs to grip the surface.

Life Cycle
Ask the Exterminator states that the inchworm begins its life by hatching from an egg attached to the underside of a leaf. According to the Texas A&M Agricultural Extension Service, inchworms feed continuously for up to one month before making their way to the ground, where they spend a season pupating or transforming into moths. This process may occur from fall to early spring or from spring to late fall.

Diet
Inchworms have voracious appetites as they take in the energy required for them to reach the pupal stage and mature into moths, according to Ask the Exterminator. The larvae begin eating the nearest leaf from the instant they hatch. Inchworms display a preference for the leaves of apple, crabapple, mulberry, maple and other fruit trees. They also eat leaves from garden vegetables, making them a pest to farmers and gardeners alike.

Silk Production
Some species of inchworm gather together in trees and spin a large protective cocoon over the entire group, giving the assembled inchworms free reign to feed on the tree’s leaves without intervention from predators. These inchworms can also spin a kind or rudimentary web to escape from threats, dismounting from a leaf and hanging from a silken thread until danger passes and then climbing back up to continue their meal.

Infestation
While the inchworm may present a harmless enough appearance, it can wreak havoc on vegetation in farms or gardens, according to Ask the Exterminator. The “group-cocoon” varieties such as the eastern tent caterpillar can destroy a tree within a single growing season. Inchworms can also devastate crops of beans, Brussels sprouts and peas unless growers introduce some measure of population control. Allowing more wasps into these areas adds a natural inchworm predator to the environment, while non-poisonous pesticides can also reduce the infestation.

Control

1. Spray all parts of infested plants, including the undersides of leaves, with Bacillus thuringiensis or spinosad until they're thoroughly saturated. Reapply it once a week until the inchworms are gone. Bt works best on inchworms that are less than 1 inch long.

2. Place sticky band insect traps around the trunks of trees to trap egg-laying moths and prevent future infestations. Position them 4 to 5 feet above the ground, following the label instructions depending on the product type. Apply these in the early spring for spring cankerworms or early fall for fall cankerworms.

3.
Spray all parts of trees thoroughly with dormant horticultural oil during the egg stage before the larvae hatch in the early spring to prevent new infestations.

Things You Will Need
  • Bacillus thuringiensis
  • Spinosad
  • Sticky band insect traps
  • Dormant horticultural oil
Tips
  • Apply Bt spray on overcast days when rain isn't expected for the best results.
  • Apply spinosad in the evening or early morning.
  • Find ready-to-use Bt, spinosad and dormant horticultural oil sprays at most garden centers.
Warnings
  • Although these insecticides are low-toxicity, keep them out of the reach of children and pets.
  • Wear long sleeves, gloves and protective eyewear when applying any chemicals. Wash your hands after use and avoid contact with the plants until they're completely dry.

 
Gardenholic

Gardenholic

289
93
Inchworm Information

While many varieties of inchworm go by the name “caterpillar,” the term “inchworm” applies to a larvae of the moth family Geometridae, which, according to Ask the Exterminator, contains up to 35,000 species. The Columbia Encyclopedia describes inchworms, also known as cankerworms, as black, brown or green creatures, so named because of their size, that often display lumps or uneven projections as a twig-like camouflage. This harmless-looking insect does considerable damage to trees and vegetables.

Locomotion
Inchworms have fewer legs than most varieties of caterpillar, claiming the normal three pairs at the front end but as few as two pairs of appendages known as prolegs toward the rear. As a result, they have a distinctive way of propelling themselves forward. According to the Columbia Encyclopedia, an inchworm will grip the surface with its forelegs and push its rear portion forward, causing the middle part of its body to elevate, then push its front portion forward while using the prolegs to grip the surface.

Life Cycle
Ask the Exterminator states that the inchworm begins its life by hatching from an egg attached to the underside of a leaf. According to the Texas A&M Agricultural Extension Service, inchworms feed continuously for up to one month before making their way to the ground, where they spend a season pupating or transforming into moths. This process may occur from fall to early spring or from spring to late fall.

Diet
Inchworms have voracious appetites as they take in the energy required for them to reach the pupal stage and mature into moths, according to Ask the Exterminator. The larvae begin eating the nearest leaf from the instant they hatch. Inchworms display a preference for the leaves of apple, crabapple, mulberry, maple and other fruit trees. They also eat leaves from garden vegetables, making them a pest to farmers and gardeners alike.

Silk Production
Some species of inchworm gather together in trees and spin a large protective cocoon over the entire group, giving the assembled inchworms free reign to feed on the tree’s leaves without intervention from predators. These inchworms can also spin a kind or rudimentary web to escape from threats, dismounting from a leaf and hanging from a silken thread until danger passes and then climbing back up to continue their meal.

Infestation
While the inchworm may present a harmless enough appearance, it can wreak havoc on vegetation in farms or gardens, according to Ask the Exterminator. The “group-cocoon” varieties such as the eastern tent caterpillar can destroy a tree within a single growing season. Inchworms can also devastate crops of beans, Brussels sprouts and peas unless growers introduce some measure of population control. Allowing more wasps into these areas adds a natural inchworm predator to the environment, while non-poisonous pesticides can also reduce the infestation.

Control

1. Spray all parts of infested plants, including the undersides of leaves, with Bacillus thuringiensis or spinosad until they're thoroughly saturated. Reapply it once a week until the inchworms are gone. Bt works best on inchworms that are less than 1 inch long.

2. Place sticky band insect traps around the trunks of trees to trap egg-laying moths and prevent future infestations. Position them 4 to 5 feet above the ground, following the label instructions depending on the product type. Apply these in the early spring for spring cankerworms or early fall for fall cankerworms.

3.
Spray all parts of trees thoroughly with dormant horticultural oil during the egg stage before the larvae hatch in the early spring to prevent new infestations.

Things You Will Need




    • Bacillus thuringiensis
    • Sticky band insect traps
    • Dormant horticultural oil
Tips



    • Apply Bt spray on overcast days when rain isn't expected for the best results.
    • Apply spinosad in the evening or early morning.
    • Find ready-to-use Bt, spinosad and dormant horticultural oil sprays at most garden centers.
Warnings



    • Although these insecticides are low-toxicity, keep them out of the reach of children and pets.
    • Wear long sleeves, gloves and protective eyewear when applying any chemicals. Wash your hands after use and avoid contact with the plants until they're completely dry.
Thank you! The moths are beautiful, but I'm not liking the babies. I think the timing is perfect for the BT. How far into flowering can it be used?
 
Gardenholic

Gardenholic

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Well, I guess I'm not going to spray anything else on them after all. The mantis eggs I received as a gift finally hatched, and I've noticed more wasps and lady bugs hanging around than usual.
IMG 5295
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IMG 5292


The baby Mantids are tiny, but I can count 9 or 10 of them, and they've been hanging around on the plants for a couple days now.

I haven't spotted nearly as many caterpillars around either.

On a side note, should I worry about red ants?
 
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