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Simple Winterization?

Discussion in 'Concentrates & Processing' started by donkitrk99, Feb 4, 2016.

  1. I've been making bho, using a plastic honey bee extractor, various brands of butane, blasting into a pyrex dish, and using a hot water bath purge. I've ordered a laboratory grade glass extraction tube. A vacuum purge set up isn't in my budget.
    My big question concerns my next step. How do I incorporate ever clear? The impression I have is:
    Blast my product. Introduce hot water bath. While it is bubbling I add ever clear. Freeze the product overnight. Do another hot water bath. And this produces shatter.
    Is that the correct order? How much ever clear do you use? Can I use 100 percent alcohol from a pharmacy? Is there any added danger with the introduction of the alcohol? Is this a way to winterize/produce shatter or will it at least improve my medicine?
     
  2. Forgot about running it through the coffee filter when it came out of the freezer, into the pyrex, which is introduced to the hot water bath.
     
  3. https://skunkpharmresearch.com/butane-safety/

    When I open blasted, I blasted directly into a deep container setting in hot tap water, and when it stopped bubbling, I poured in the alcohol, which I had heated to 150F or so.

    Stir it up good, filter it, and stick it in the freezer for 48 hours before pulling it out and filtering out the waxes.
     
    donkitrk99 likes this.
  4. Thanks a million.
    It's actually 99% isopropyl that I can purchase locally. Is that a sufficient product?
    When you say "filtering out the waxes" after it comes out of the freezer is that another hot water bath? Or another trip through a coffee filter?
     
  5. And what is a safe manner for heating the alcohol?
     
  6. You can winterize with Iso, but ethanol or methanol work better, because they have a higher dielectric constant.

    The chilled solution is removed from the freezer and filtered though chilled filters.
     
  7. Ok. Thanks again. I have just a couple more questions.
    How much alcohol do I use?
    Does it need to be heated and, if so, what is a safe method?
    Is there a second hot water bath or does the alcohol evaporate in the freezer?
     
  8. 5 to 10X. I do it by eyeball, but you need enough alcohol so that at 0F, it still flows like alcohol, instead of thick oil.

    I heat it up to dissolve the BHO faster, but it isn't necessary if you have more time.

    You will need to evaporate the Iso away. Here is how I do it:

    https://skunkpharmresearch.com/qwiso/
     
  9. I wish I found this place a looong time ago thanks again gray wolf. You are like my Platonic Form of bho information right now haha.

    What do you men by 5 x to 10 x? I assume it's 5-10 times as much alcohol as ________. I thought I read somewhere 1 Oz of alcohol per expected gram of end product.

    How long will it take if thr alcohol isnt heated? A little more clarity here and I should be good to go to winterize my next batch :)
     
  10. It means five to ten times as much alcohol as concentrate. The ratio isn't critical beyond having enough, so I typically do it by eyeball. You need enough alcohol so that when the mixture is chilled, it still pours like alcohol, rather than thick oil.

    How long it takes to dissolve the concentrate cold, depends on how much concentrate you have, how cold, and how much agitation.

    When you pour 150F EtOH into a recovery pot of concentrate, and stir vigorously, the concentrate is dissolved almost immediately, so lets say thirty seconds for the purpose of comparison. The alcohol is of course, immediately cooled down by the exercise and closer to 100F.

    If you poured 70F EtOH into 70F concentrate, and stirred/scrubbed vigorously, it might take three or four minutes. It works, you just have to keep the boundary layers removed by agitation or scrubbing, to keep the process moving.
     
    donkitrk99 likes this.
  11. I have people telling me that bho cannot be improved upon with this "iso wash". What is the goal of this extra step?
     
  12. Winterizing a non polar extraction like BHO with a polar solvent like Iso or EtOH, is done to remove the plant waxes and turn it into an Absolute.
     
    donkitrk99 likes this.
  13. In a post of yours I read a while back you mention two undesirables that impact the color of the concentrate, chlorophyll and _____? The other one escapes me, I've also read that you can diminish the visual impact of chlorophyll using 662nm deep red uv light - is this correct and is there an equivalent tactic for removing the other color impacting undesirable?

    Also I've recently switched from open blasting to a closed loop system designed from scratch, and have heard varying opinion on the micron size of the filters in the system. The recommendations range from 150 micron down to 50 micron, but with 75 I'm still seeing lipids and other undesirables and when I was open blasting I was using two layers of unbleached or bamboo coffee filters, held in by a 50 micron metal mesh screen. I understand the coffee filters to be ~10micron and had very few lipids with many batches/strains coming out with no lipids. Was the filter fine enough to catch said lipids? What micron size do you use in your systems? Can any screen exclude lipids from the final product to the point where polishing/winterizing is unnecessary to produce an absolute in "shatter" form?
     
  14. Anthro cyanin plant pigments.

    You can degrade some chlorophyll using strong UV light, like the sun to break down the chlorophyll and turn a light green to amber, but doesn't work for dark green.

    I use multiple ~20 micron coffee filters wadded up and packed, supported by a 150 mesh screen.

    The lipids are in solution, so you would first have to lower the temperature of the solution enough for the lipids to precipitate out, before filtering them for removal.

    If you extract with -30C or so butane to start with, it will pick up very few lipids and waxes, because of their lower solubility as a Triterpene sized molecule.
     
  15. Can you link me to any methods you use to remove the anthro cyanin plant pigments and large quantities of chlorophyll from existing extracts?

    I can get my actual extraction column(and plant matter) well below -37c(which is the lowest my temp gun reads) but the lowest I can get my actual butane is -28c due to the constraints of the freezer, would the column and plant matter being so cold compensate to the 2 degrees colder I need my butane?
     
  16. I have some bho dissolved in 99%iso in a pyrex dish in my freezer. Also chilling glasses with Unbleached coffee filters attached. Is there a goal temperature to get the product to in the freezer before it is filtered or before it is removed from the freezer? The temperature at which the alcohol solution will still come through the filter but the shit I don't want gets left behind, I guess.
     
  17. For artisan quality, we first limit how much of those non target elements we extract, by extracting at subzero temperatures. It will retain more of the monoterpenes, and along with the aroma and flavor.

    We've removed the antrocyanins and chlorophyll using column chromatography, as well a Kugelrohr, and a Terp Trommel molecular still, to make Clear.
     
  18. Roman

    Roman

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    Hi everyone.
    What is the best ratio kg of extract to liters of ethanol? First I try 1:3 and after winterization, filtration and alcohol removing with rotovap I get the CBD percentage twice smaller than it was in CO2 extract.
    Can someone help me?