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Trees Ml Per Gal Vs Regular Size Plant Ml Per Gal

Discussion in 'Tree Farming' started by scrappy420, Jul 29, 2016.

  1. I had some girls get away from me in veg in 15gal smart pots. I wanted to transplant into bigger containers but couldnt do it alone. Soil has promix hp, pooguys poo and lime. Vegged for 10 weeks. New room was not ready in time so they out grew the veg room and when i moved them into the flower room they freaked out under the 1000 hps. They were malnourished in veg so when i put them in an optimum environment with proper lights, nutes, co2, humidity it was too much at once. Leaves were rusty, yellow, dieing.

    I raised the lights, turned them down to 600, raised the humidity to 80, co2 @ 800, temp @ 78, ran house & garden @ 12ml per gal.

    Needless to say they are better now. One is as big as a twin size matress and 6' tall. Strain is
    g13/haze indica and sativa phenos. They are on 26 days of 12/12 now and last week i was on grow nutes @ 13.5ml soil a&b and went to bud nutes, turned the light back up and humidity down to 45-50, co2 up to 1200 and temp to 82. I did 1 feeding of 16ml and yesterday 1 of 20ml. the leaves are now dieing again, yellowing and rusty top to bottom of plant, both phenos. I had turned some of the lights back up but some not.
    Yesterday i fed 20ml of soil a&b for first time and because the leaves started to go backwards i fed the whole line plus sea green and photosynthesis and cal mag. It did help. This morning they looked a little better.

    My question is: when you have very large plants in flower do they need a higher ml per gal to keep everything running properly? We are talking about a plant with 150-200 6-8" tops in cages. I am very frustrated. Thanks for the help in advance
  2. DrMcSkunkins

    DrMcSkunkins Dabbling in Oil

    What was your ppm and ph of your water after fertilizer was added?
    Paul Simon likes this.
  3. Also, ease the lighting up in flower. We veg under T5s and 400w MHs and start 11/13 with the fixtures at 600w. We step them up over the next 4 weeks to their peak output, then step them back during ripening as well as change the spectrum. Did you step the humidity down or go straight from 80% to 50%? I would guess that it is a combination of the big swing of enviroment and the potential that your Vapor Pressure Differential is out of whack: "
    Vapour Pressure Deficit, or VPD, is the difference (deficit) between the amount of moisture in the air and how much moisture the air can hold when it is saturated. Once air becomes saturated water will condense out to form clouds, dew or films of water over leaves. It is this last instance that makes VPD important for greenhouse regulation. If a film of water forms on a plant leaf it becomes far more susceptible to rot. On the other hand, as the VPD increases the plant needs to draw more water from its roots. In the case of cuttings, the plant may dry out and die. For this reason the ideal range for VPD in a greenhouse is from 0.45 kPa to 1.25 kPa, ideally sitting at around 0.85 kPa. As a general rule, most plants grow well at VPDs of between 0.8 and 0.95 kPa [1]

    In ecology, it is the difference between the actual water vapour pressure and the saturation water vapour pressure at a particular temperature. Unlike relative humidity, vapour pressure deficit has a simple nearly straight-line relationship to the rate of evapotranspiration and other measures of evaporation."