What Do You Think About This Light Setup? Quantum Board

[OldManRiver]

I have a 3x3x7 grow space. I grew a crop last winter using some cheezy blurples, ready to upgrade. I am not particularly cost constrained. I'm plenty handy enough to build a kit, which I am considering. But I see the above light, and wonder if I should just buy one. Would I save much if I built from a kit or parts?

Strictly a winter personal stash grow; I grow outside in the summer.

Also considering 300 watt setups from Timber Grow Lights.
https://www.amazon.com/Horticulture...id=1543727670&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=HLG+600

 

[OldManRiver]

Or this kit?

https://growerslights.com/collectio...hting-group-260-watt-xw-quantum-board-led-kit

 

[crimsonecho]

These lights are all good, qbs are good lights but if you’re not limited with a budget get one that is listed for flowering in 4x4. These are dimmable so its better to go higher than lower. I mean the par distribution of the first one is just abysmal at the corners. 135umol is not good par value for flowering plants. The mids are good at 700.

If you’re good at diys why not get 2 of these or similar.



Hang them seperately and run them with driver(s) that gives out 2800ma at max and a dimmer. At 2800ma these 2 fixtures will hit close to 560w total but you can dim it to suit your needs and you can dial it up when/if you move into a bigger tent too.

But i have to clarify, i don’t use qbs. This is just my two cents :)

 

[OldManRiver]

Now I'm thinking two of these:

 

[JWM2]

Now I'm thinking two of these:

That’s a good kit. You’ll do well with either of the 260w quantum qb288 v2 kits.

 

[Freshone]

Either the 260 kit or their 320 kit is better bang for the buck than the HLG300 unless you need a certified fixture for commercial insurance or building code reasons.The 300 and 550 are ETL listed and that costs money and has no advantage for a homegrower,Also the kits are super easy builds,great choice of lights!

 

[OldManRiver]

Either the 260 kit or their 320 kit is better bang for the buck than the HLG300 unless you need a certified fixture for commercial insurance or building code reasons.The 300 and 550 are ETL listed and that costs money and has no advantage for a homegrower,Also the kits are super easy builds,great choice of lights!

Those kits are spinning my beanie.

 

[Buzzer777]

Those kits are spinning my beanie.

 

[Rootbound]

Or this kit?

https://growerslights.com/collectio...hting-group-260-watt-xw-quantum-board-led-kit

This is the fixture I use in my 3x3 veg tent. I have it turned down to 120 watts. I also crank it up some and flower in it sometimes if needed.

 

[JWM2]

The only problem I’m having personally is the lack of heat. I’m having to find ways of getting more heat into my grow space due to the lack of wasted energy from the led lights.

I’m so used to having to do the opposite and get temps down that this is throwing me a bit of a curveball.

This is where VPD comes into play. At low temps my plants weren’t properly transpiring and therefore were showing signs of deficiency due to the nutrients not being taken up by the roots. My growing medium has plenty of nutrients but the fact they aren’t “sweating” as much means they aren’t able to properly utilize and metabolize those nutrients.

It’s a weird place to be and something I needed to correct in order to get back on track. Any time you make a change in your grow it’s like learning to grow all over again. Which is fun but can be a little frustrating when things go wrong.

 

[Buzzer777]

The only problem I’m having personally is the lack of heat. I’m having to find ways of getting more heat into my grow space due to the lack of wasted energy from the led lights.

I’m so used to having to do the opposite and get temps down that this is throwing me a bit of a curveball.

The wasted energy is more from the drivers than from the lights imo..Is your driver inside or outside the tent?

 

[JWM2]

The wasted energy is more from the drivers than from the lights imo..Is your driver inside or outside the tent?

Inside. Right on top of the heat sink. I wish the driver would heat up more, haha.

And btw I grow in a rack. Not a tent ;-)

 

[JWM2]

Today I’m going to switch my veg lights from led back to the T-5s I had before upgrading. I’ll use the led again in the summer when it’s warmer. The T-5s produce enough heat that I won’t need a space heater to keep it warm.

 

[Freshone]

Today I’m going to switch my veg lights from led back to the T-5s I had before upgrading. I’ll use the led again in the summer when it’s warmer. The T-5s produce enough heat that I won’t need a space heater to keep it warm.

Whats your plan for lights out?My problem is lights out temps not lights on with these boards.I already run lights on at night (30s) to help during winter and my temps are fine (80-81) but lights out during days (50s) my temps are dropping a little more than i like (high 60s).You could probably run the LEDs and a small heat source and be better off than the T5s IMO.

 

[OldManRiver]

I'm itching to pull the trigger. The space they will be used for is my winter SCROG closet. The space has to be about 3x3, or I can't reach the back corner. I veg and flower in here, on a DWC hydro system. Should I get one or two of these boards? For use as both veg and flower, should I get 3500K or 3000K?

 

[JWM2]

Whats your plan for lights out?My problem is lights out temps not lights on with these boards.I already run lights on at night (30s) to help during winter and my temps are fine (80-81) but lights out during days (50s) my temps are dropping a little more than i like (high 60s).You could probably run the LEDs and a small heat source and be better off than the T5s IMO.

The t-5 has actually got my temps back up to where they should be. It’s cheaper than running a space heater so this will work through the winter. In the summer I’ll switch the veg chamber back to leds when there’s plenty of warm air in that room.

 

[Buzzer777]

I'm itching to pull the trigger. The space they will be used for is my winter SCROG closet. The space has to be about 3x3, or I can't reach the back corner. I veg and flower in here, on a DWC hydro system. Should I get one or two of these boards? For use as both veg and flower, should I get 3500K or 3000K?

I would use two boards..You can get a B driver and a 100k pot and have a nice dimmable setup..or use the A driver and use it's built in dimmer screw. (not the best imo)..I like 3000k for general veg and flowering.

Two boards are more flexible..you can have plants of different heights/needs in the same tent and raise and/or lower each independently. Just my 2 cents..best of luck and you will not be sorry!

 

[OldManRiver]

I would use two boards..You can get a B driver and a 100k pot and have a nice dimmable setup..or use the A driver and use it's built in dimmer screw. (not the best imo)..I like 3000k for general veg and flowering.

Two boards are more flexible..you can have plants of different heights/needs in the same tent and raise and/or lower each independently. Just my 2 cents..best of luck and you will not be sorry!

Got a link on how to wire in the pot? Not sure what you mean by an A or a B driver. I was planning on using the driver in the kit, which has a screw on the driver that can be used for dimming, but I'd prefer to wire in a dial.

Different heights aren't really an issue, I use a SCROG setup.

 

[Buzzer777]

Got a link on how to wire in the pot? Not sure what you mean by an A or a B driver. I was planning on using the driver in the kit, which has a screw on the driver that can be used for dimming, but I'd prefer to wire in a dial.

Different heights aren't really an issue, I use a SCROG setup.

Meanwell has 2 types of drivers (mostly). The A driver has a built in screw dimmer (poor imo) and the B driver has two leads that wire (solder) directly to a 100k ohm pot.
I had to buy 5 pcs on Ebay of the pot..cost a whole $5 and work perfectly. I have an A driver on a 288 kit that I bought last year, and the Pot dimmer is far better. (you can also wire in a meter like this for an additional $15). This shot is using a different type of meanwell that had a really crummy voltage control on the board.
Meter in front..Dimmer (DC motor control) behind it. You could also use a $20 kill a Watt to keep it simple.

Edit: pots usually have 3 leads..you only use 2..depending on which way you want to go higher/lower..usually clockwise = higher output. (use shrink wrap after soldering)

 

[OldManRiver]

Meanwell has 2 types of drivers (mostly). The A driver has a built in screw dimmer (poor imo) and the B driver has two leads that wire (solder) directly to a 100k ohm pot.
I had to buy 5 pcs on Ebay of the pot..cost a whole $5 and work perfectly. I have an A driver on a 288 kit that I bought last year, and the Pot dimmer is far better. (you can also wire in a meter like this for an additional $15). This shot is using a different type of meanwell that had a really crummy voltage control on the board.
Meter in front..Dimmer (DC motor control) behind it. You could also use a $20 kill a Watt to keep it simple.
View attachment 845583

Sounds like the kit I'm looking at has the A driver. I'd have to swap out the drivers. Not sure it's worth the trouble. I have a kill-a-watt.