What Nutrients Shall Is Use On A First Attempt??

[Newbie987]

Hey guys,!
I have been getting ready for my first attempt at growing for about a month now. I've been getting my information from a friend that has had a few successful crops. The one thing I am struggling with is nutrition and what I should use. I've recently bought my base of canna coco a&b to go with my canna coco plus medium. As this is my first attempt I don't want to mess with all sort of fertilisers and additives. Can I use the coco A&B from veg till end of flower without additives? If not what additives can I get away with not using as I've been told I will need my a&b, boost, rhizotonic, cannazym and pk 13/14.

Thanks guy, in advance!

 

[iKharon]

Hey guys,!
I have been getting ready for my first attempt at growing for about a month now. I've been getting my information from a friend that has had a few successful crops. The one thing I am struggling with is nutrition and what I should use. I've recently bought my base of canna coco a&b to go with my canna coco plus medium. As this is my first attempt I don't want to mess with all sort of fertilisers and additives. Can I use the coco A&B from veg till end of flower without additives? If not what additives can I get away with not using as I've been told I will need my a&b, boost, rhizotonic, cannazym and pk 13/14.

Thanks guy, in advance!

Nectar for the Gods is good... easy feeds and not really anyway for you to burn your shit up.. I'd check them out.. also oregonsonly is the company

 

[Newbie987]

Nectar for the Gods is good... easy feeds and not really anyway for you to burn your shit up.. I'd check them out.. also oregonsonly is the company

Thank you for your advice! All seems really complicated but hopefully after all the research and the effort, it should be satisfying once I have in hand some decent smoke!

 

[xenon730]

Thank you for your advice! All seems really complicated but hopefully after all the research and the effort, it should be satisfying once I have in hand some decent smoke!

wouldn't use nectar for coco. i find canna, general hydroponics, or dynagro are the easiest to learn with. learn what you're feeding and why. check your ppm/ec. plan feeding schedule based on ppm and then plan one planning each elements ppm. imo your main goal should be to understand why you're doing what you're doing. the canna line is simple and clean. you don't need the zym or boost or pk13-14. you don't need the rhizotonic either but if you don't use it you should use a kelp extract and humic product. a cheap good one is zeus juice by nectar for the gods. the boost does work but isn't worth the cost to you and you should be adding products for a reason and proving they work before buying a huge line. you only need good genetics and a complete base nutrient to grow great bud. there are however some proven ingredients that make it a bit easier, faster, and more consistent. you should be focusing on learning how to water and feed properly. how to read what your plant is saying by its actions. what medium you actually enjoy using. how to use your space effectively. things like that. there are 2 easy things i recommend to help prevent a lot of problems though and those are a silica product and a humic and kelp product. protekt from dynagro and armor si by general hydroponics are the cheapest and best form(potassium silicate). for a humic and kelp i recommend zeus juice from nectar for the gods but there's plenty of these. kelp is in almost every bloom booster or bud stacker etc. and will likely impress you with how fast it speeds up veg growth especially. lmk if you have any questions about these products or advice. if you grab them let me give you instructions on preparing them as the amount and order in which you mix your nutrients does matter.

 

[CelticEBE]

Veg + Bloom HD with Shine and Life, or Heavy 16 full line.

IMHO, the list of importance on growing is this. Environment, Genetics, and then Nutes.

 

[Newbie987]

wouldn't use nectar for coco. i find canna, general hydroponics, or dynagro are the easiest to learn with. learn what you're feeding and why. check your ppm/ec. plan feeding schedule based on ppm and then plan one planning each elements ppm. imo your main goal should be to understand why you're doing what you're doing. the canna line is simple and clean. you don't need the zym or boost or pk13-14. you don't need the rhizotonic either but if you don't use it you should use a kelp extract and humic product. a cheap good one is zeus juice by nectar for the gods. the boost does work but isn't worth the cost to you and you should be adding products for a reason and proving they work before buying a huge line. you only need good genetics and a complete base nutrient to grow great bud. there are however some proven ingredients that make it a bit easier, faster, and more consistent. you should be focusing on learning how to water and feed properly. how to read what your plant is saying by its actions. what medium you actually enjoy using. how to use your space effectively. things like that. there are 2 easy things i recommend to help prevent a lot of problems though and those are a silica product and a humic and kelp product. protekt from dynagro and armor si by general hydroponics are the cheapest and best form(potassium silicate). for a humic and kelp i recommend zeus juice from nectar for the gods but there's plenty of these. kelp is in almost every bloom booster or bud stacker etc. and will likely impress you with how fast it speeds up veg growth especially. lmk if you have any questions about these products or advice. if you grab them let me give you instructions on preparing them as the amount and order in which you mix your nutrients does matter.

Thanks xenon730! Good advice and I'm doing my research into products and why I should be using them and what they are for/what benefits they offer the plants.
I will be using a rhizotonic as it will stimulate the roots, help keep there health plus from what I've seen its 100% natural aswell!

 

[xenon730]

Thanks xenon730! Good advice and I'm doing my research into products and why I should be using them and what they are for/what benefits they offer the plants.
I will be using a rhizotonic as it will stimulate the roots, help keep there health plus from what I've seen its 100% natural aswell!

what all are you using? also canna doesn't have a silica so i recommend adding one regardless of what you use with them. silica is not a necessary element but it very noticeably strengthens and enlarges stems. using it for me is the difference between buds in the air or on the floor when they get fat. it also helps with over watering, heat, and buildup in the medium. i never grow a plant without it and same with a lot of others.

 

[Pimples]

Hey guys,!
I have been getting ready for my first attempt at growing for about a month now. I've been getting my information from a friend that has had a few successful crops. The one thing I am struggling with is nutrition and what I should use. I've recently bought my base of canna coco a&b to go with my canna coco plus medium. As this is my first attempt I don't want to mess with all sort of fertilisers and additives. Can I use the coco A&B from veg till end of flower without additives? If not what additives can I get away with not using as I've been told I will need my a&b, boost, rhizotonic, cannazym and pk 13/14.

Thanks guy, in advance!

You dont need any additives and if its a rookie grow....dont use em. Just canna coco and the a b Canna Coco Nutrient. But absolutely buy a quality pH and TDS (EC) meter with calibration satchets. I suggest something quality with a replaceable pH probe like a Bluelab Combo Meter. Stick to 0.6 to 1.0 EC feeds for young vegging and preflowering plants. Up this to 1.2 to 1.5 EC for beginning flower and as flower progresses. Leave the additives alone for a few crops till you get the swing of things. Watch the pH of your feeds too. 5.8 to 6.2 range is perfect. The Canna base has everything you need. Make sure your starting tap water is in a 0.2 to 0.4 acceptable range. If its not...make it that way before adding the base nutrient. Watch your temp amd humidity lights on and off (a green led headlamp for night system check and maintenance is your friend) Plenty of air circulation and try not to fuk with your plants too much. Once they are settled amd chugging along consistently theres not much you want to do to derail them. Let em do thier thing and reap tue rewards at chop time.

 

[Newbie987]

You dont need any additives and if its a rookie grow....dont use em. Just canna coco and the a b Canna Coco Nutrient. But absolutely buy a quality pH and TDS (EC) meter with calibration satchets. I suggest something quality with a replaceable pH probe like a Bluelab Combo Meter. Stick to 0.6 to 1.0 EC feeds for young vegging and preflowering plants. Up this to 1.2 to 1.5 EC for beginning flower and as flower progresses. Leave the additives alone for a few crops till you get the swing of things. Watch the pH of your feeds too. 5.8 to 6.2 range is perfect. The Canna base has everything you need. Make sure your starting tap water is in a 0.2 to 0.4 acceptable range. If its not...make it that way before adding the base nutrient. Watch your temp amd humidity lights on and off (a green led headlamp for night system check and maintenance is your friend) Plenty of air circulation and try not to fuk with your plants too much. Once they are settled amd chugging along consistently theres not much you want to do to derail them. Let em do thier thing and reap tue rewards at chop time.

Thanks! Defiantly want my first round to be as simple as it can be. How many times is an average day of watering? I'm using coco in root nurse smart pots but I hear coco has a good drainage but I also hear that fabric pots have a good drainage too. Will I have to be constantly in and out of the room watering. I was hoping to feed
Once a week and water 2-3 times a day

 

[dan1989]

You dont need any additives and if its a rookie grow....dont use em. Just canna coco and the a b Canna Coco Nutrient. But absolutely buy a quality pH and TDS (EC) meter with calibration satchets. I suggest something quality with a replaceable pH probe like a Bluelab Combo Meter. Stick to 0.6 to 1.0 EC feeds for young vegging and preflowering plants. Up this to 1.2 to 1.5 EC for beginning flower and as flower progresses. Leave the additives alone for a few crops till you get the swing of things. Watch the pH of your feeds too. 5.8 to 6.2 range is perfect. The Canna base has everything you need. Make sure your starting tap water is in a 0.2 to 0.4 acceptable range. If its not...make it that way before adding the base nutrient. Watch your temp amd humidity lights on and off (a green led headlamp for night system check and maintenance is your friend) Plenty of air circulation and try not to fuk with your plants too much. Once they are settled amd chugging along consistently theres not much you want to do to derail them. Let em do thier thing and reap tue rewards at chop time.

If you get a PH meter (which you should) get one that's self calibrating. Trust me don't waste your time with the screw adjusting shit, it will let you down. Essentials do a good self calibrating ph meter.

 

[Pimples]

Yes you will be watering/feeding in there quite a bit if doing it manually by hand. But this is your first go then do it. Later you can get into a drip watering manifold with a tote or trashcan reservoir tank with pump and timer for automatic daily waterings but for now you need to be hand watering. I always suggest this to noobs. But as far as frequency treat fresh transplanted plants to the new pot to a wet/dry feeding/watering routine to establish a strong root system. Kinda like regular soil or soiless peat mixes. Not bone dry and wilting but close. And when you do water them (it takes days for the pots to dry but let it) make sure you water/feed with plenty (about 20%of what you gave them up top) comes out the bottom as waste runoff. Use a catch saucer. And get rid or it. (Drain to waste) . Use about 0.8 to 1.0 ec feeds (on top of your start water EC...not total) when doing this. PH around 6.0 (better yet try and keep pH around 6.0 all throughout vegging and flowering for now) . As you finally get to final pot just before flowering (i suggest 2 or 3 gallon fabric root pruning pots - any brand will do) you should have a very strong amd extensive root structure with roots trying to poke out the sides and bottom of the pot. You will know your on track because the plant is drinking ALOT. And its becoming a bitch to hand water all the time. But stick to it. Do the auto drip watering after a few crops when you know for certain you have the watering down. And are confident you can set up automation to save your back. Anyways...once roots are nice and strong you dont want to do the wet dry thing anymore (the pot lift /how heavy method is your friend) but more of a daily watering or every couple days(Canna suggests once a good root system is established to water/feed when pots are 50% as heavy as the last full soaking and its solid advice) until the runoff at about 20%. You can also up the feed strength to about 1.2 or 1.3 ec. Should be good to go. Follow what i say. Stay away from additives and extra bottles and a drip auto system for now. Your just learning and want to keep it simple.

 

[Pimples]

If you get a PH meter (which you should) get one that's self calibrating. Trust me don't waste your time with the screw adjusting shit, it will let you down. Essentials do a good self calibrating ph meter.

Skip all them cheap pens amd get something quality...once amd done. I HIGHLY SUGGEST a Bluelab pH/EC/TDS Combo Meter. Dont mess with the cheap shit for noob rookie growers. It can cost a crop with cheap inaccurate pens. Ph glass probes are finicky and notoriously inaccurate by nature and design. And the glass electrode will need replacing eventually. Get the Bluelab and be done with it. Keep the moisture vial always half full with KCL storage solution and never let the probe dry. Its done if you let it dry. But with these combo meters...the pH probe is replaceable thank god. Use calibration satchets 4.0 and 7.0 and throw them away after one use. Alot of people dont know this but big bottles of pH calibration solutions get contaminated easily and have a short life with accuracy once the screw cap is opened. Stick with fresh once and done satchets. They are cheap. And calibrate when the meter tells you to. And its easy one button
Definitely not the cheap chinese screw in the back of those cheap ass pens. I been through ALL the hydroponic hobby pH meters and pens in. 25 years of growing cannabis and Blue lab is the best quAlity in my opinion. Hannah..Oakton..Millwaukee and the rest of the oldschool brands have got left in the dust once Blue lab came out. Believe what i say. Been through it all with growing dope.

 

[xeamonk]

Yes you will be watering/feeding in there quite a bit if doing it manually by hand. But this is your first go then do it. Later you can get into a drip watering manifold with a tote or trashcan reservoir tank with pump and timer for automatic daily waterings but for now you need to be hand watering. I always suggest this to noobs. But as far as frequency treat fresh transplanted plants to the new pot to a wet/dry feeding/watering routine to establish a strong root system. Kinda like regular soil or soiless peat mixes. Not bone dry and wilting but close. And when you do water them (it takes days for the pots to dry but let it) make sure you water/feed with plenty (about 20%of what you gave them up top) comes out the bottom as waste runoff. Use a catch saucer. And get rid or it. (Drain to waste) . Use about 0.8 to 1.0 ec feeds (on top of your start water EC...not total) when doing this. PH around 6.0 (better yet try and keep pH around 6.0 all throughout vegging and flowering for now) . As you finally get to final pot just before flowering (i suggest 2 or 3 gallon fabric root pruning pots - any brand will do) you should have a very strong amd extensive root structure with roots trying to poke out the sides and bottom of the pot. You will know your on track because the plant is drinking ALOT. And its becoming a bitch to hand water all the time. But stick to it. Do the auto drip watering after a few crops when you know for certain you have the watering down. And are confident you can set up automation to save your back. Anyways...once roots are nice and strong you dont want to do the wet dry thing anymore (the pot lift /how heavy method is your friend) but more of a daily watering or every couple days(Canna suggests once a good root system is established to water/feed when pots are 50% as heavy as the last full soaking and its solid advice) until the runoff at about 20%. You can also up the feed strength to about 1.2 or 1.3 ec. Should be good to go. Follow what i say. Stay away from additives and extra bottles and a drip auto system for now. Your just learning and want to keep it simple.

all really good advice here! pretty much a dtw in coco in a nutshell. this method works :)

 

[Dutch Jon]

I ussally recommend Heavy 16 full line (like a poster above) honestly your not going to get away from additives . . since you already started with Canna coco and your in coco go with Cannas coco program .. not a damn thing wrong with that.

 

[Thejoeybrown]

Do some research on Advanced Nutrients Ph Perfect sensi Coco grow A+B and then the same bloom A+B. I use it and I am also new to this. That's why I'm saying YOU do the research and decide. It it balances the ph itself. Follow the label instructions and trust. I know this goes against all instinct and tbh in the beginning I would pH down from 6.1 to 5.8. I had a few minor issues. Called manufacturer and learned this the buffers work. Now I follow instructions and my runoff on is always 5.8-5.9. My babies are flourishing. I add AN rhino skin and the AN cal mag which are both compatible with the base. Still no ph adjustments. I keep an eye on ppm only and I test the runoff ph just for piece of mind. Something to look in to. So far I love it. I have only grown outdoor and used my own idea of what they needed. Never grew really high quality. I just switched over to this side of life so I'm learning but I highly recommend. Good luck

 

[Fecund Loin]

Skip all them cheap pens amd get something quality...once amd done. I HIGHLY SUGGEST a Bluelab pH/EC/TDS Combo Meter. Dont mess with the cheap shit for noob rookie growers. It can cost a crop with cheap inaccurate pens. Ph glass probes are finicky and notoriously inaccurate by nature and design. And the glass electrode will need replacing eventually. Get the Bluelab and be done with it. Keep the moisture vial always half full with KCL storage solution and never let the probe dry. Its done if you let it dry. But with these combo meters...the pH probe is replaceable thank god. Use calibration satchets 4.0 and 7.0 and throw them away after one use. Alot of people dont know this but big bottles of pH calibration solutions get contaminated easily and have a short life with accuracy once the screw cap is opened. Stick with fresh once and done satchets. They are cheap. And calibrate when the meter tells you to. And its easy one button
Definitely not the cheap chinese screw in the back of those cheap ass pens. I been through ALL the hydroponic hobby pH meters and pens in. 25 years of growing cannabis and Blue lab is the best quAlity in my opinion. Hannah..Oakton..Millwaukee and the rest of the oldschool brands have got left in the dust once Blue lab came out. Believe what i say. Been through it all with growing dope.

I'm just about finishing my first grow and I bought an £11 SemosPH pen from the Internet three months back and got a bit panicked by your post. So I mixed up two calibration sachets 6.86 and 4.00 and my pen came out at 6.86 and 4.01. I don't know how long it will maintain this level of accuracy but as you say the calibration sachets are cheap so when it drifts out of acceptable tolerances I'll either buy another £11 one or invest in something more professional. I bet I'll be buying another £11 one in a year or two, time will tell.

I can see the logic in buying a decent EC pen if you want to go that way but so far in my first indoor grow I'm just feeding at a level using feedback from the plants.

 

[Fecund Loin]

Do some research on Advanced Nutrients Ph Perfect sensi Coco grow A+B and then the same bloom A+B. I use it and I am also new to this. That's why I'm saying YOU do the research and decide. It it balances the ph itself. Follow the label instructions and trust. I know this goes against all instinct and tbh in the beginning I would pH down from 6.1 to 5.8. I had a few minor issues. Called manufacturer and learned this the buffers work. Now I follow instructions and my runoff on is always 5.8-5.9. My babies are flourishing. I add AN rhino skin and the AN cal mag which are both compatible with the base. Still no ph adjustments. I keep an eye on ppm only and I test the runoff ph just for piece of mind. Something to look in to. So far I love it. I have only grown outdoor and used my own idea of what they needed. Never grew really high quality. I just switched over to this side of life so I'm learning but I highly recommend. Good luck

Surely the self PH balancing nutes will just move the PH back to where it was after you adjust (the whole point of the product), by adjusting the PH "briefly" you are just adding unwanted chemicals to your feed and it will end up back at the PH the buffers are formulated to achieve??

 

[SMACKA]

Keep the moisture vial always half full with KCL storage solution and never let the probe dry. Its done if you let it dry.

Is it really this straight forward? If the probe dries out, the pen's useless?

Have always heard this but mine dried out a while back but I've still been using it because it appears to be accurate.

Is this naive of me? Time for a new one?

 

[rmoltis]

Is it really this straight forward? If the probe dries out, the pen's useless?

Have always heard this but mine dried out a while back but I've still been using it because it appears to be accurate.

Is this naive of me? Time for a new one?

It's time for you to buy calibration fluid and re-calibrate your pen

 

[jumpincactus]

Is it really this straight forward? If the probe dries out, the pen's useless?

Have always heard this but mine dried out a while back but I've still been using it because it appears to be accurate.

Is this naive of me? Time for a new one?

they claim if it dries out it's toast. But either way like R said at least get some calibration fluids and calibrate. Then if the probe is indeed fried you know you need to grab another. I use a pen that has a changeable probe so if it wears out or I fry it I can easily replace just the probe and not the entire pen. Here's the link for the one I use if your interested. It is temperature compensated and extremely waterproof.