Welcome to the Fungal, it gets worse here everyday - Fusarium Solani

  • Thread starter silverhaze
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dutchman

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Yeah, Googling indicates that Fosetyl is the active in the brand-name product Aliette. But Dutchman, I thought you said Aliette was one of the products the all the shops in the Netherlands were testing for and refused to carry?

Not for Aliette esp. but for fungicide threats in general. Aliette / Fosetyl is a minor poisonous fungicide and since you had a quite open approach to use chemical fungicides I told you....But people here also dislike Aliette for use in cannabis, right. But there is a long way from Aliette to other chemical systemic shite against fungus.
 
Boylobster

Boylobster

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BL, have you also seen/heard of "No Fungus" from Greenway? Same company that makes "no Powder Mildew" and "No Spider Mites". Their product says:

16 Gallon Concentrate- No Fungus™ 16 gallon Concentrate is perfect for larger gardens and a great value. No Fungus™ is perfect for attacking your downey mildew, fusarium, anthracnose, phytophora, wiltering disease on your garden.
Uh-uh. But there are a billion-and-one fungal treatments out there. Many don't seem to be intended for RDWC use, which is a shame, 'cause that's how I roll... but anyway. At this point, I think we've got a *lot* of potential products and combos that might be effective, but we're short on experimental data. My clones are running a little behind schedule, but I'll be able to start them soon. I'm a little ocupado tonight, but soon I'd like to perhaps compose a succinct list of the products we might deploy, and then outline some specific strategies so that everyone can compare notes in a halfway orderly fashion. Whatcha' think
 
Boylobster

Boylobster

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Not for Aliette esp. but for fungicide threats in general. Aliette / Fosetyl is a minor poisonous fungicide and since you had a quite open approach to use chemical fungicides I told you....But people here also dislike Aliette for use in cannabis, right. But there is a long way from Aliette to other chemical systemic shite against fungus.
Fair enough... have you known Aliette to be successful in battling fusarium, pythium, etc?
 
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dutchman

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BL, have you also seen/heard of "No Fungus" from Greenway? Same company that makes "no Powder Mildew" and "No Spider Mites". Their product says:

16 Gallon Concentrate- No Fungus™ 16 gallon Concentrate is perfect for larger gardens and a great value. No Fungus™ is perfect for attacking your downey mildew, fusarium, anthracnose, phytophora, wiltering disease on your garden.

Do you know what the ingredients are?
 
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dutchman

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Fair enough... have you known Aliette to be successful in battling fusarium, pythium, etc?

Yes, somebody wrote me and since it is not so easy to distinguish between Fusarium and other nasty fungi it works sometimes esp. when the roots are involved. Aliette is not made againts Fusarium but it seem to work sometimes when used for watering....try a combo wwith sulphur and copper spray

Fusarium, Verticillium and other wilts are really nasty compared to mildew etc. The plants seem to undergo a life-death dance. They begon to recover and a relapse follows and so on....Most survive somehow with a minimum yield.

Feeding with nitrogen and lots of light seem to worsen the disease.

Fungi are on the rise everywhere and that is scary.....
 
Boylobster

Boylobster

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Half-alive and a very modest harvest... yeah, that about sums it up. :hungover: But the lab did verify that my root samples were growing out both fusarium and pythium, so... if I can find success against them, especially without systemics, hopefully it can be of use to others as well. Time will tell...
 
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dutchman

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Half-alive and a very modest harvest... yeah, that about sums it up. :hungover: But the lab did verify that my root samples were growing out both fusarium and pythium, so... if I can find success against them, especially without systemics, hopefully it can be of use to others as well. Time will tell...

Aliette will get rid of Phytium. Maybe the Fusarium is just a superinfection because of the weakness created by Pythium
 
silverhaze

silverhaze

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I'd like to perhaps compose a succinct list of the products we might deploy, and then outline some specific strategies so that everyone can compare notes in a halfway orderly fashion. Whatcha' think

Do it. We have to start somewhere. Thanks BL!
 
silverhaze

silverhaze

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Do you know what the ingredients are?

The label says Organic Thymol 0.80% and 99.2% Other ingredients (don't you just love the labeling laws). Other ingredients listed are Water, Oleic Acid and Citric Acid. Their website says it's 100% organic.

How No Fungus™ Scientific Technology Works

Don't let the fresh-clean aroma of No Fungus™ fool you. No Fungus™ works by attacking your downy mildew, pythium, fusarium, phytophtora, gray mold, withering disease, anthracnose spore itself at the mycelium, the base of your leaves surface. Our fresh, clean, 100% natural plant oil and extract technology infiltrates the spore of downy mildew, fusarium, phytophtora, gray mold, withering disease, anthracnose cell pathogens while destroying the spores themselves. Then, the dual lysis action and power of No Fungus™ then lays a 100% natural, protective barrier of protection that evaporates after it gets the job done.
img_process_740x330.jpg
No Fungus™ Induces Imbalance of K-ion Inside Mycellium and Refrains Spore Germination and Mycellium Proliferation


This is the next generation of 100% natural, plant oil and extract mold, mildew and fungal technology that just gets the job done!
img_before_138x133.jpg
img_after_138x133.jpg

The above photo demonstrates the restriction of spore germination after one single application of No Fungus™. No Fungus™ has a 92%-98% efficacy rate on the restriction of further spore germination upon 1st application.



Mold, Mildew & Fungus Treatment Key Features:

  • 100% Organic​
  • 100% Effective​
  • Immediate Results​
  • Attacks Mold, Mildew & Fungal Spores Immediately (see results in 8-14 hours)
  • No Toxic Residues​
  • No Harsh Chemicals​
  • No Need for Gloves​
  • No Need for Masks​
  • No Aftertaste to Fruits & Vegetables​
  • No Harsh Aroma​
  • No Burning to Plants​
  • Use as a Curative or Preventative​
  • Use Anytime From Seedling to Day of Harvest​
  • Use Under Any Lights​
  • Fresh, Clean Aroma​
  • Laboratory Tested​
  • Gardner Trusted and Approved​
 
D

dutchman

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The label says Organic Thymol 0.80% and 99.2% Other ingredients (don't you just love the labeling laws). Other ingredients listed are Water, Oleic Acid and Citric Acid. Their website says it's 100% organic.

So we don't know nothing......Are you trying it?

BTW: a friend of a friend has plants with the same problems as yours and the other plant in the other thread and has successfully tested Aliette. After some days the plant begins to recover and massive root development started! Only THEN the plants can take up nutrients but only a little bit. And then, with healthy roots they are able to fight other fungi and bacteria that infects them because of weakness.
 
silverhaze

silverhaze

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So we don't know nothing......Are you trying it?

BTW: a friend of a friend has plants with the same problems as yours and the other plant in the other thread and has successfully tested Aliette. After some days the plant begins to recover and massive root development started! Only THEN the plants can take up nutrients but only a little bit. And then, with healthy roots they are able to fight other fungi and bacteria that infects them because of weakness.

Correct, we know nothing about it. No, I've not tried this, I just came across the bottle at a store last week and put it up as another product that claims to be effective against fusarium.

I think your friends experience is very interesting and helpful. Nothing I've tried has even begun to repair the root zone or otherwise develop any new healthy roots. I aim to run several side by side tests with various strategies. The amount of time taken in trial and loss is exceptional so I'm just being patient and doing my homework.

Thanks, as always..
 
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dutchman

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Correct, we know nothing about it. No, I've not tried this, I just came across the bottle at a store last week and put it up as another product that claims to be effective against fusarium..

Your welcome. If you use Aliette, two times watering your plants with it should show results.
If not, drop it.

There are many attempts with natural fungicides and I am a bit sceptical. But what worked somehow was spraying neem - to my surprise, but only with less nasty fungi.
 
D

dutchman

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Your welcome. If you use Aliette, two times watering your plants with it should show results.
If not, drop it.

There are many attempts with natural fungicides and I am a bit sceptical. But what worked somehow was spraying neem - to my surprise, but only with less nasty fungi.

My friend said he could after one week rescue about half of the plants with Aliette. But they are highly vulnerable now especially with nutrienst. Feed them only slowly slowly. And the other half developed another fungi with with a lot of leafspots. And it is not sure if they will ever grow again as before....:greedy:

In the end it is all messed up when you do not begin early with treatment. best is discard that mess and start new. :cool:

Skol
 
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dutchman

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I got the same problem now and I definetely got it from commercial seeds of AK 47 I bought in a shop. .

I have to correct and to apologize. The Fusarium came from old garden plants and tomatoes on a balcony nearby where some garden gear was lying aound. NOT FROM SEEDS.
So my apologies to Serious Seeds and their AK 47!

Tomatoe plants seem to be a an easy catch for Fusarium!
 
B

Buddygreens

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Howdy,

I've had test that verify that i'm dealing with fusarium.

I haven't beat it but, I have been able to suppress it.

I have found the following fungicides effective in slowing it down-

-Heritage
-Mancozeb (leaves increase in size)
-Subdue Maxx
-Daconil (doesn't do a lot, but it does help)
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

Living dead girl
23,596
638
Holy shit, Buddy..! All this time you've been battling it? Good Lord God, I am sorry about that, it's gotta be frustrating.

Thank you for following up on this. :) If you'd like to share any pix for our general education, please feel free.
 
entropy99

entropy99

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Hey Buddy, how's it going?

Have you considered starting from scratch again? Might be the easiest way to rid yourself of this mold.
 
Budhound86

Budhound86

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3
The zone will totally kill the bennies in Root Shield. Not sure what the Subdue is.

There's a distinct line in the sand here,... sterile on one side,and live on the other. You can't effectively combine the two. You need to choose one route or the other.


Grow well,
B.B.
Man I was just reading somewhere about how plants communicate with each other through chemical signals sent through the the root zone as well as through the air. If a plant is being attacked, it will send a signal to alert the plants in the area. This alert will in turn cause the plants to exude certain foods that are known to attract specific bacteria, the same bacteria that fight off whatever infection is attacking the plant that is alerting the others.

Trippy shit that none of us really fully understand yet. Apparently mycorrhizae are also responsible for facilitating the communication through the underground network of roots.

Check out this video on PBS pertaining to what you just stated. Gnarly!
 
N

nuglife

11
3
I sent a sample to the lab as well and tested positive for fusarium oxysporum. Yields had dropped 50% and it took me a couple years to figure out exactly what was causing this. Rarely have I had plants wilt, but the pathogen creates symptoms that resemble nitrogen toxicity with leaf curl, and magnesium deficiency with purple stems and odd looking growth. Fan leaves get small and more narrow, especially once more pk is added in flower. We are constantly cleaning everything with Physan 20, drenches with subdue maxx/heritage, using the root and foilar pack from Og Bio War, and this pathogen doesn't seem to go away. RH has to be 60%+ or plants will not perform at all. Touring many grows in Colorado I see all the signs of it. Feel that it will be a huge issue soon for many people. I can track the fusarium back to some cuts and feel it took 6-8 months before it started effecting me. Two years later and it's becoming difficult to produce a pound a light. When I start new genetics they perform 1-2 rounds and then become sick. Now I just need to figure out how to co-exist with it because it's at multiple locations and we take lots of precautions to avoid cross contamination.
 

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