A detailed explanation of why fast curing buds in preferable to slow curing.

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caregiverken

caregiverken

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91E9puNqCaL SL1500
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O

Organicyumyum

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Oldmanstoner is more right than wrong. Perhaps not so much recreational, but more towards spiritual.

One of the worlds Universal conditions in any race is stress. People smoke to unwind. blow off some steam, get away from the old lady, ya dig?

Yes now there are alot of medicinal uses, and half of them are BS. But thank baby jesus people associate the 2. Politics and taxes will achieve more for cannabis industry in 4 years than the whole OVERGROW and Norml movements ever will. Republicans are gonna make it their platform in 2016 just watch.

In my town there are MMJ protesters and standing on the corner with signs, its never the guy well dressed, or the Girl that looks professional. Its always beavis or butthead and a homely hippie chick with hairy legs. The world is watching you CO and WA, hopefully the hippies dont fuck it up. Luckily Ivy League ganjapreneurs will right the ship, and desperate politicians will prevail.

WHile Im bitching, the whole dab thing is too funny. Ive tried it plenty and you guys are the crackheads of the pot world. nobody needs to be that high, well i guess that your tolerance is so high... Nothing beats a nice lil brussel sprout freshy with a clean flame.

and to make my post relevant to this thread.... only people who think fast drying final product is just as good, are people who had a sale pending, and not so sophisticated of a client.

Source: 20 years of searching for best flavor best quality

I agree, a nice piece of cabbage is all ya need.
 
K

kolah

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I like anyone who has the balls to question the norm. Cheers to Yarra for stimulating new thoughts and ideas. Will it change how I cure my buds? Respectfully, no.

And quite sadly, this thread really de-railed. I smoke mainly for medicinal reasons and on rare occasion take just few hits to kick back on. Others should have the freedom to use it however they please. I'm an old skool midnight toker, I've never dabbed or tried any other new waves of MJ preparations and have no need or desire to. I like my low tolerance. I smoke out of an old wooden bowl with a brass screen that cost me 20 bucks. Some good clean hash smoking is as far as I go. Like a few others here, I make MJ balms and tinctures as well...good stuff.

I think some folks have chemical imbalances and/or severe chronic pain and MJ helps them in that respect therefore some peeps need to be high 24/7 which raises their tolerance and keeps them looking for more potent strains (and so goes the vicious cycle). I am unsure where that line gets crossed and falls into an addiction or abuse category but I am not one to judge others. It may sound a bit dorky but naturally I am pretty high on life just being straight. In my youth I abused the shit out of everything and anything and now I like being a bit more balanced, moderated and in control of myself. I also enjoy my occasional mushrooms trips to keep things real (as odd as that sounds)

To each his own, though. ;)
 
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Herb Forester

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I just put 5-6 useless members here on ignore, so 205 of their trolling and off-topic messages are now invisible to me. And that's just in this thread, can't wait to see how it improves my Farm experience in general! It's great, like having your own personal ban function :finger::troll:
 
J

Jalisco Kid

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I open them to check moisture levels. The moisture levels at the bottom are always more then the top. Mainly I just turn them upside down every few days till the moisture content has evened out through out the container. Usually takes 2 weeks. I have a container I use on the ranch that's buried. Keeps my herb just right,no critters or greedy people to bother with. JK
 
NaturalTherapy

NaturalTherapy

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I find it interesting how people compliment OP for bringing scientific information to the community, though without specific references it is not exactly science- it is a position of authority with no history or evidence to support the position.

It's quite simply bad science to dismiss the results of our own experience which have been demonstrated repeatedly with consistent results. That is science. It is in fact bad science to take anything Yarra or anyone else has to say including me as gospel if it doesn't fit into your experience.

Experience wins out every time. In my experience I've ruined good crops by employing the methods described in the OP. Seems to me many folks echo this experience (My perception is that most folks don't even know what premium quality cannabis really is- most are just happy if it is better than what they can buy from dude around the way, so these debates are inherently flawed).

Are people applauding Yarra for his pursuit of truth or simply his bold attitude of authority. I've been accused of being a smarty pants at times and I appreciate @yarra sparra's erudite manner. Perhaps he is an authority and time will tell, however I personally will not risk ruining a good crop just to do a side by side comparison, because I have -by sheer error- employed such a method and ended up with lesser quality cannabis.

I know plenty of business owners who say that if it isn't at peak potency and ready to smoke three days after harvest it's not worth running. I avidly oppose this position, although I can't help but wonder, if that is attitude and experience gleaned from the specific demands of the position, in other words, is that a reflection of qualities of cannabis or a reflection of the demands of the market? It's important not to dismiss new techniques learned by novel approaches- but it is of much greater importance you follow the lesson your own experience has taught you.

My experience tells me I'd like to sit and chat with Yarra, but probably I would smoke only my grass the whole time. That or I'd be very surprised.
 
fishwhistle

fishwhistle

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I never looked at this thread as i really didnt agree with the title right off the bat but when it grew to 12 pages i thought i might be missing out,i was wrong.Why would someone worry for 2+ months about every bug or leaf discoloration issue you see only to use the easy bake oven method to quickly dry your herb?Yarra,Do you actually smoke marijuana yourself?
 
caregiverken

caregiverken

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50 degrees F @ 40 % RH
I think that might work if you watch it closely and stop in time ;)

I shoulda copy and pasted this way back
[quote "Texas Kid, post: 209, member: 59"]Cure Your Medicine by DJ Short

Proper curing can exponentially increase the quality and desirability of your harvest. The key word to remember is "slow".

Dark & Dry
After cutting the plant or branch, hang it upside down in a cool, dry, and most importantly dark place. Light must be avoided from this point on. Leave the larger shade leaves on and they will gently droop and wrap around the plant, protecting the buds.

The time to the next step depends on how dry your hanging area is. This requires regular checking to determine when to proceed. When the larger shade leaves become dry and brittle to the touch it is time to gently clip them off.

Re-hang the branches in the drying room and regularly check them until the smaller leaves and bud tips become dry and brittle to the touch. It is then time to remove the buds from the branch and remove the rest of the leaf material as best as possible. This is what is referred to as "manicuring".

Now you have a few choices as to what to do with your manicured buds. The buds should still be a little wet at this point, especially on the inside, but the outer part of the buds should be starting to feel dry. Some of the buds, the smaller ones in particular, might even be smokable at this point.

If you are in a more humid area, or if the buds are still feeling heavy with moisture, you may want to try placing them on a suspended screen for a little while. This will help to hasten the drying process. Once again, regular checking to decide when they are ready for the next stage is crucial. This is also a skill that is developed more with time and experience, so practice!

Brown Bagging It
Once the buds are crisp on the outside but still moist on the inside it is time for the next step in the process: the paper bag. I like to use brown paper shopping bags due to their not being bleached, an unwanted chemical.

Simply fill a paper bag a few inches deep with the manicured buds. Don't pack the buds down and do not fold the bag too tight. A few small folds at the top of the bag, like a lunch bag, should suffice.

If the buds are a tad wet or if humid conditions dominate, you might want to consider cutting a few small holes in the bag, above the level of the buds, for ventilation.

As with proper manicuring, regular checking is key. The bags should be gently shaken, ever-so-carefully turning the buds, at least once a day. As the buds dry they will naturally compact into the self-preserving state that we all know and love. It is at this time that the buds can be more compacted together and the bag folded down tighter. They should now be fully smokable, though perhaps still slightly damp at the core.

The entire process, from harvest to these first smokable products, should take anywhere from two to four weeks, depending on your climate. Extremes in climate, such as very arid deserts or tropical humid areas, may take more or less time. There is no substitute for consistent, hands-on checking.


The Final Stage
A final curing stage, preferred by most connoisseurs, involves sealable jars. The nearly ready buds are transferred from the bag to the jar, packed in very loosely, and the jar is sealed. It is very important in the early jar-stage to check the buds at least once a day.

I like to dump them all out of the jar and gently fluff them up at least once a day at first, then less often as time progresses, usually for a week to ten days. It is important to be as gentle as possible so as not to damage too many of the resin glands. After a week or so all I do is simply open the jar and check the buds on a daily basis.

Watch for Mold
The main thing to watch (and smell) for throughout all of the curing process is mold. Whenever mold is found it must be dealt with immediately. The moldy bud needs to be removed, and the rest of the product needs to be exposed to a drier environment for a while.

The simplest solution is to go back one step. For example, if the mold was detected in the jar stage simply put the rest of the product back to the bag stage for awhile (after removing the contaminated product from the batch). If the mold is detected in the bag stage, go back to the screen. The screen is the driest process that I know of. If problems with the mold occur prior to this, a dehumidifier in the drying room may be the answer.

Aside from watching and smelling for mold, always remember to keep the product in the dark.

Ready to go!
A bud is completely dry, cured, and ready for sale or consumption when the stem in the middle of the bud snaps when the bud is cracked with the fingers. The snap is easy to detect with practice. It is at this stage that the product can safely be sealed and stored for an indefinite period of time.

The longer you can stretch out this process, while also avoiding mold, the better. I like when it takes six to eight weeks from harvest to the finished product. You will be able to detect the fragrance of the product becoming more and more desirable as time progresses.

Another ditty I grabbed along the way

Tex[/quote]

Thanks @Texas Kid and DJ :)
 
M

mars

49
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this device will allow an air conditioner to cool down to 32 degrees.

it is a bit pricy but it works. also I remember grow master did a (diy) on how to insulate a window air conditioner so it does not freeze up
and will cool down to the 30's. This was when he was (big papas ) on the AN medical forum in 2006 if I remember correct.
 
caregiverken

caregiverken

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this device will allow an air conditioner to cool down to 32 degrees.

it is a bit pricy but it works. also I remember grow master did a (diy) on how to insulate a window air conditioner so it does not freeze up
and will cool down to the 30's. This was when he was (big papas ) on the AN medical forum in 2006 if I remember correct.
Great link!
Now we are talkin..I may try the freezer cure..that has my interest..
Where is that thread again?
 
way2green

way2green

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I think that might work if you watch it closely and stop in time ;)

I shoulda copy and pasted this way back
[quote "Texas Kid, post: 209, member: 59"]Cure Your Medicine by DJ Short

Proper curing can exponentially increase the quality and desirability of your harvest. The key word to remember is "slow".

Dark & Dry
After cutting the plant or branch, hang it upside down in a cool, dry, and most importantly dark place. Light must be avoided from this point on. Leave the larger shade leaves on and they will gently droop and wrap around the plant, protecting the buds.

The time to the next step depends on how dry your hanging area is. This requires regular checking to determine when to proceed. When the larger shade leaves become dry and brittle to the touch it is time to gently clip them off.

Re-hang the branches in the drying room and regularly check them until the smaller leaves and bud tips become dry and brittle to the touch. It is then time to remove the buds from the branch and remove the rest of the leaf material as best as possible. This is what is referred to as "manicuring".

Now you have a few choices as to what to do with your manicured buds. The buds should still be a little wet at this point, especially on the inside, but the outer part of the buds should be starting to feel dry. Some of the buds, the smaller ones in particular, might even be smokable at this point.

If you are in a more humid area, or if the buds are still feeling heavy with moisture, you may want to try placing them on a suspended screen for a little while. This will help to hasten the drying process. Once again, regular checking to decide when they are ready for the next stage is crucial. This is also a skill that is developed more with time and experience, so practice!

Brown Bagging It
Once the buds are crisp on the outside but still moist on the inside it is time for the next step in the process: the paper bag. I like to use brown paper shopping bags due to their not being bleached, an unwanted chemical.

Simply fill a paper bag a few inches deep with the manicured buds. Don't pack the buds down and do not fold the bag too tight. A few small folds at the top of the bag, like a lunch bag, should suffice.

If the buds are a tad wet or if humid conditions dominate, you might want to consider cutting a few small holes in the bag, above the level of the buds, for ventilation.

As with proper manicuring, regular checking is key. The bags should be gently shaken, ever-so-carefully turning the buds, at least once a day. As the buds dry they will naturally compact into the self-preserving state that we all know and love. It is at this time that the buds can be more compacted together and the bag folded down tighter. They should now be fully smokable, though perhaps still slightly damp at the core.

The entire process, from harvest to these first smokable products, should take anywhere from two to four weeks, depending on your climate. Extremes in climate, such as very arid deserts or tropical humid areas, may take more or less time. There is no substitute for consistent, hands-on checking.


The Final Stage
A final curing stage, preferred by most connoisseurs, involves sealable jars. The nearly ready buds are transferred from the bag to the jar, packed in very loosely, and the jar is sealed. It is very important in the early jar-stage to check the buds at least once a day.

I like to dump them all out of the jar and gently fluff them up at least once a day at first, then less often as time progresses, usually for a week to ten days. It is important to be as gentle as possible so as not to damage too many of the resin glands. After a week or so all I do is simply open the jar and check the buds on a daily basis.

Watch for Mold
The main thing to watch (and smell) for throughout all of the curing process is mold. Whenever mold is found it must be dealt with immediately. The moldy bud needs to be removed, and the rest of the product needs to be exposed to a drier environment for a while.

The simplest solution is to go back one step. For example, if the mold was detected in the jar stage simply put the rest of the product back to the bag stage for awhile (after removing the contaminated product from the batch). If the mold is detected in the bag stage, go back to the screen. The screen is the driest process that I know of. If problems with the mold occur prior to this, a dehumidifier in the drying room may be the answer.

Aside from watching and smelling for mold, always remember to keep the product in the dark.

Ready to go!
A bud is completely dry, cured, and ready for sale or consumption when the stem in the middle of the bud snaps when the bud is cracked with the fingers. The snap is easy to detect with practice. It is at this stage that the product can safely be sealed and stored for an indefinite period of time.

The longer you can stretch out this process, while also avoiding mold, the better. I like when it takes six to eight weeks from harvest to the finished product. You will be able to detect the fragrance of the product becoming more and more desirable as time progresses.

Another ditty I grabbed along the way

Tex

Thanks @Texas Kid and DJ :)[/quote]
I was reading those posts or threads earlier this morning. Those dudes know their shit!
 
delae632

delae632

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Please keep this thread on track. I just cleaned it up as best as I could for the time being. If the trolling and off topic posts persist then you'll be getting a pm from me that you're not going to like.

Thanks folks.
 
YarraSparra

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To think all I was trying to do was point out some logical fallacies of growing techniques. Never thought it would stir up such a fuss….for the record, my thesis had absolutely nothing to do with growing or smoking weed (but certainly helped me get through it LOL). I now regret I even mentioned it. I’m not pretending to be some high flying professor or a walking text book. If you would care to re-read what I wrote carefully, I made the point because it took me half my life to figure out I should be critically analyzing things - esp. my own confirmation biases and esp. in relation to my growing practices, i.e. “hey shit…maybe I should start questioning the doctrine because this and that don’t stack up”. Just because everyone else does it doesn’t mean it’s the best way to do it. I slow cured for years and it was a long time before I questioned whether it actually made any sense at all. I decided to try fast curing after reading up and talking to others who do it. After getting the technique down I’ve never looked back. To be clear on this - not one person has ever commented the weed I grow tastes harsh, bad or tastes like ‘chemicals’ (ironically I’ve had one person assuming it was organic, and others have asked. So what do you think that says to me?), it doesn’t smell like ‘hay’ (WTF?!), and the returning moisture content equals that of slow cured by the time it gets to the customer. If fast curing hadn’t been an improvement I’d have simply gone back to the old slow cure method, which is an easier and cheaper alternative because it doesn't require an intensive drying set up with all the associated hardware.

So that’s been my own personal experience. But rather than just rabbit on about that, what I posted was an attempt to provide a reasonably comprehendible explanation of why I believe it’s better to fast cure. I really tried to keep it objective and factual as possible. I have also provided what I believe is a very plausible explanation that accounts for the popular misnomer that fast cured weed supposedly always tastes harsher than slow cured - heat. And this is easily ameliorated via simple atmospheric rehydration, irrespective if the weed has been slow or dry cured. If someone would like to pick holes in that explanation, or question any other particular point, or think my understanding of the relevant biochemistry is shoddy or rudimentary, then please point out where and provide some logical reasoning to support your point of view. I like to engage in the type of dialogue that’s conducive to a productive and informative discussion where I am able to learn something valuable too. Unfortunately all some of you have been able to do so far is ‘critique’ my spelling or grammar in a schoolyard attempt to discredit my post. Well that makes an obvious statement…..and I doubt I’m the only one who sees that. But hey.

Really there’s just no need for disparaging (and honestly disappointing) personal attacks just because you don’t agree with something that challenges your own personal beliefs. And FYI I thought my use of the word ‘stipulate’ was entirely contextually appropriate, but I have no issues with admitting I’m wrong about something, I often am - don’t worry, my kids tell me so all the time.

@Organicyumyum, I read this thread yesterday, before your others posted were deleted (obviously they were of little worth). I never once claimed I was a scientist, just because I did a thesis does not make me one. I haven’t spread misinformation - that’s just not true. You’re right, we have absolutely no idea who you are. But I’m happy to give you the benefit of the doubt; you’re a ‘man of science’ with ’14 years of growing experience’, and clearly very opinionated on some philosophical topics too. Nice mix. That’s fine. I have more than a few years growing experience on you my friend. I also think you are wrong. In that thread I posed several questions relating to plant physiology and the redundancy of flushing. Perhaps you could help elucidate why flushing is necessary then, rather than just your personal opinion backed by 14 years of growing….Can I request you just stick to the facts, specifically I’m interested in the supposed mechanisms at play - what is happening at the molecular level. Seriously it’d be great if you could share some of your knowledge on this - to prevent the spread of misinformation of course ;)

I also don’t appreciate being accused of cutting corners for profit. That’s not true either. I’m extremely passionate about growing and have been since I was a kid, and take great pride in what I produce - so kindly mince your words. You clearly have NOT done both drying methods, at least not like I have. Well I DO have the experience of doing both, and both for many years, so I am in a position where I can make a very clear objective assessment of all the pros and cons. In a nutshell, when you put the effort into fast curing buds properly, the end product is markedly superior. I am not the only person knows this, and it’s starting to catch on esp. in the med scene. Maybe you should revisit this thread in a few years and see what’s changed. I'll be happy to accept your gracious 'apology' then. You want photos. I don’t have any comparison nug shots, and even if I did I doubt there’d be any discernible difference other than a slightly lighter green hue for the fast cured. That means nothing. I can’t photograph potency and aroma. If you’re so skeptical maybe you should risk a bud, follow my instructions carefully and do some double blind trials for yourself. I expect you know the drill. Then come back and tell me what you think.

…or you can just continue hollering ‘BS’ on my thread, and continue backing that up with nothing but your obtuse dribble, and in doing so, continue to vindicate everything I’ve written.

YS
 
DragonKilla

DragonKilla

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Once again man, thank you for the thread. I've studied a bit of college level science, so understood your first post sufficiently. To me, there was sound reasoning in what you described. I've smoked both fast cured and slow cured. Never noticed a difference. Sometimes I think people want to notice a difference. Who really knows? When it comes to how we find smoking, it's purely subjective, so it enters the realms of psychology and moves away from science.
 
frebo

frebo

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If testing wasn't so expensive or I had more money it would be interesting to do a side by side test and have the two tested. We actually try this every year when the plants are finishing and we can't wait to try it. If anything the short finish seems less stoney or couch locking - more uplifting.
 
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