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Council Of First Knowledge, Jedi Temple Training Facility

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Council Of First Knowledge, Jedi Temple Training Facility

EventHorizan 21,559 Replies 1,775,827 Views
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why would ducting be the reason for running them
you have a sealed room
what the hell do you need to duct them for?

makes no sense

you run an ac
which probably wont even be used if you had these
my leds literally put off 7degrees above ambient
they are fan cooled
as in an internal fan that blows across the blades of the heat sink

dude 400w of LED is like 150w of HPS in heat comparison
I bet you wouldnt even use your ac in the dead of summer down in your basement

and will probably need a heater in the winter

as for the spectrum
you would turn down the red to 50% during veg
turn up the red to full during first 3 weeks of flower
then week 4-8 turn down blue to 50%
then week of flush turn up the blue and down the red all the way
all the time white stays full power

taylored for optimal growth
They aint worth all that money to me then..
The only reason i would pick them over cobs is for ducting...
All that hobba jobba about turning spectrum isnt worth $3000 to me..

Why do i consider led
1 Easier to control temps
2 bulbs dont got to be replaced every year
3 cobs would give me better coverage..


So with my thinking I might as well build myself a cob light with veros and make my own ductable plexiglass enclosures...
 
They aint worth all that money to me then..
The only reason i would pick them over cobs is for ducting...
All that hobba jobba about turning spectrum isnt worth $3000 to me..

Why do i consider led
1 Easier to control temps
2 bulbs dont got to be replaced every year
3 cobs would give me better coverage..


So with my thinking I might as well build myself a cob light with veros and make my own ductable plexiglass enclosures...

The only reason to do cobs is for cost savings imo. If your going to do a diy cob with an enclosure to duct it you midswell get the diy parts from chilled and not the diy kits. That way you can do the same concept that your talking about but with the chilled boards..

I bet the cost will be similar to cobs.
 
The only reason to do cobs is for cost savings imo. If your going to do a diy cob with an enclosure to duct it you midswell get the diy parts from chilled and not the diy kits. That way you can do the same concept that your talking about but with the chilled boards..

I bet the cost will be similar to cobs.
I see what the cost diff is.
I didnt really look to much at the kits...
 
They aint worth all that money to me then..
The only reason i would pick them over cobs is for ducting...
All that hobba jobba about turning spectrum isnt worth $3000 to me..

Why do i consider led
1 Easier to control temps
2 bulbs dont got to be replaced every year
3 cobs would give me better coverage..


So with my thinking I might as well build myself a cob light with veros and make my own ductable plexiglass enclosures...
with that line of thinking you might as well stick to HPS

there is literally no reason to duct LED's for any reason
not for cannabis

maybe for Lettuce and other cool weather leafy greens
 
@EventHorizan
let me put it this way

no matter what leds you run

in your space

this winter you will be using a heater

they put off significantly less heat than an HPS aircooled

so much so that many people on other forums actually put their LED's away during the winter and bust out HPS just so they can keep their temps up
 
@EventHorizan
let me put it this way

no matter what leds you run

in your space

this winter you will be using a heater

they put off significantly less heat than an HPS aircooled

so much so that many people on other forums actually put their LED's away during the winter and bust out HPS just so they can keep their temps up
Well thats good to know since nov to april it will be too cold to run my window ac so they will have to be really cool.. Its actually harder to control heat in the winter because no Ac and sealed...
 
Well thats good to know since nov to april it will be too cold to run my window ac so they will have to be really cool.. Its actually harder to control heat in the winter because no Ac and sealed...
how cool does it get down there in the winter

see if it is in the 50's
then your grow room will probably be in the low 60's

I have a tuff time in the winter

I have to restrict flow because my light only heats up about 7 degrees above ambient

and my box is insulated and everything
 
how cool does it get down there in the winter

see if it is in the 50's
then your grow room will probably be in the low 60's

I have a tuff time in the winter

I have to restrict flow because my light only heats up about 7 degrees above ambient

and my box is insulated and everything
Idk to be honest.. I used the lights down there all winter with exhaust fans. It ran warm as they were open batwings..
I just ran the hoods last run for the first time.
 
Idk to be honest.. I used the lights down there all winter with exhaust fans. It ran warm as they were open batwings..
I just ran the hoods last run for the first time.
that is crazy
see in the winter you def need that heat
running an open batwing it would be like 150degrees in my box

a 600w with hood and fan
got to 95
when ambient was 78degrees

with my leds
it gets to 84degrees which is perfect
 
2x4 canopy
Image
Image
 
I'm still a bit lost.. so if i was looking at changing my 600 hps for an led, what wattage led would i look at to achieve the same results..? after hearing you guys talk about them they sound like they might be a good option if i decide to have a second flower room....;)
 
I'm still a bit lost.. so if i was looking at changing my 600 hps for an led, what wattage led would i look at to achieve the same results..? after hearing you guys talk about them they sound like they might be a good option if i decide to have a second flower room....;)
IMO I would swap watt for watt
if you are running a 600 then get 600 true watts from a good LED
that way you are boosting you light but maintaining the same wattage as before
 
IMO I would swap watt for watt
if you are running a 600 then get 600 true watts from a good LED
that way you are boosting you light but maintaining the same wattage as before
true watts being what the the led is advertised at so i would need something like this. Gen 2 LED Grow Light – 600 Watts5.00 out of 51 customer review $1,699.00 + Options
 
true watts being what the the led is advertised at so i would need something like this. Gen 2 LED Grow Light – 600 Watts5.00 out of 51 customer review $1,699.00 + Options
yeah true watts
there are a lot of companys that say 1200w
2000w
850w etc
but when you look at the specs.......1.5a draw
well that ain't 850w

an important side note
because quality LED's are much more efficient (lumens per watt)
when you get say a 600w LED
if you compare it to an HPS
the LED is putting out something like 40% more light to the canopy while all that light for the HPS is converted into heat

so for instance
a 600w hps eye horti is 30% efficient
that means it puts out about 180w to the canopy

something like a Chilled is about 50% efficient
meaning a 600w light is putting out about 300w to canopy in the way of light
"Par Watts" which is about equal to a 1000w horti
so that is why good company's like chilled or Spectrum King can claim = to a 1k
because par watts to canopy IS equal to 1k

I am running 3oow of Cree COB's
my lights are 50% efficient
I am hitting my canopy with 150 par watts
with a ppfd of about 850
that would be equal to about 500w of hps

there are a few things that something like chilled and SK have over COB
they both incorporate UVa and IR into their lights
which help in plant growth to allow the plant to exibit more of its true genetic potential

another reason why I would choose one of those lights over say a COB or Quantum board
they are more than just white light
they are "boosted" white light
and with Chilled....being able to enhance red or blue spectrum is an amazing tool to have on hand to be able to really push your plants performance to its limits

IMO
 
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