Botrytis Resistant Strains?

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Planter01

Planter01

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It seems like whether it's old standbys or new varieties Botrytis is becoming more of a problem. Back in the 80's when I was growing the original Skunk and NL bud rot was rare. Now it doesn't matter if I grow seeds claiming to be Sk1 or NL or something "new" with wildly differing phenotypes in any pack of seeds rot always seems to be an issue. I'm willing to sacrifice THC percentages for something more resistant to Botrytis. I do seem to have better luck with Sativas over indicas but I don't know if it's a resistance I'm seeing or the nature of a generally less dense bud. The problem with Sativas is usually time or a hard frost. I'm strictly talking outdoors. This year was rough outdoors to the point I'm ascared to start an indoor run.
Any suggestions? I can only do so much about airflow and wet buddage but there must be someway to stem this pox.
 
BioStimz

BioStimz

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Back in the 80's when I was growing the original Skunk and NL bud rot was rare. Now it doesn't matter if I grow seeds claiming to be Sk1 or NL or something "new" with wildly differing phenotypes in any pack of seeds rot always seems to be an issue.
That sounds more like a result of the weather/humidity variables.... not what you were growing.

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GrowGod

GrowGod

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I find botrytis and fungus gnats go hand and hand. Try using actinovate and regalia for the rot, works well.
 
Planter01

Planter01

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Thanks for the input Bio. In my original post i do point to Sativas having a less dense bud structure than indicas which may be one of contributing factors but predominantly Sativa plants have a longer outdoor period of growth than the Indicas and I have trouble finishing them in Z6 due to our average first frost date. I am taking seasonal differences over the years BUT either the occurrence of Botrytis in the environment has changed or the plant has become more susceptible. Crossing varieties takes no great skill but to build an outdoor plant that reflects all the traits we look for would be stellar. After last season's debacle I'm willing to try just about anything and I will research the chemical approach. I've never had the rot indoors but those exploding clouds of spore a hundred yards from the house are stressors. Sounds like an extra low humidity run is in order. I'm still going to have to explore to see if there are high T strains out there that have a resistance factored in. It's a most worthy breeding effort but that would be a long process rather then incidental and way out of my league or knowledge of..
 
BioStimz

BioStimz

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After last season's debacle I'm willing to try just about anything and I will research the chemical approach.
If I told you there was a natural-measure [with a good degree of science supporting it] that you could try to resolve the issue, would you be interested in trying it?

I'd need to know more details about the extent of the crop-contamination though.

I haven't grown outdoors for years, and I haven't had to deal with botrytis ever since, but I have a pretty good feeling about this method. We'd just need to get the dosages adjusted.

Let me know.

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BioStimz

BioStimz

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In my original post i do point to Sativas having a less dense bud structure than indicas which may be one of contributing factors but predominantly Sativa plants have a longer outdoor period of growth than the Indicas and I have trouble finishing them in Z6 due to our average first frost date.
So why don't you just find a shorter flowering Sativa?

Take a look at hyzerflip's suggestion. Quantum Kush seems like a killer sativa-dom 75/25 strain, that basically has an indica flowering-time (55-65 days).

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BioStimz

BioStimz

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If I told you there was a natural-measure [with a good degree of science supporting it] that you could try to resolve the issue, would you be interested in trying it?

I'd need to know more details about the extent of the crop-contamination though.

I haven't grown outdoors for years, and I haven't had to deal with botrytis ever since, but I have a pretty good feeling about this method. We'd just need to get the dosages adjusted.
EDIT:

The method I'm referring to is exclusive to plants that you're trying to save, once botrytis starts.

However, there is another measure with the same compound that you could try next time around.
 
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