PH A Basic explanation

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MIMedGrower

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And to be honest there are not a many alkaline sources in the nutrients we use. So a buffered soil usually keeps its ph for as long as a grow goes atleast. Usually the issue is just that the makeups of fertalizer we use are generally acidic.
I agree with ya. Nutrients are generally acidic enough. It all depends on how you buffer the soil. High alkaline water source little bit of lime. Using RO you gonna need more. I think another reason ppl see different soil pH with same products. That and the same label doesn't mean it's going to be from the same batch.


Funny you mention nutrients being acidic. Foliage pro is not acidic enough to counter my well water if i add even 2.5 ml of protekt (silica). So now i have been adding 1 ml ph down to 2.5 ml protekt and 5 ml foliage pro to be about 6.3ph. And the pro mix stayed there to the end.
 
Aqua Man

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Funny you mention nutrients being acidic. Foliage pro is not acidic enough to counter my well water if i add even 2.5 ml of protekt (silica). So now i have been adding 1 ml ph down to 2.5 ml protekt and 5 ml foliage pro to be about 6.3ph. And the pro mix stayed there to the end.
Yeah I was gonna mention with the exception of silica. That's pretty alkaline
 
MIMedGrower

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That may work for you, but as I've explained before my waters 8.9 out the tap, can't use it that high, plants don't like it

I haven't had my pH go below 6.1 in about a year or more, ever since I started using the citric acid instead of the commercial products



No more added lime? And what are the ppm’s of your water. Or alkalinity if you know?

Citric acid breaks down faster than some acids. That may be very helpful over time.
 
Oa.ahhu

Oa.ahhu

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Yeah I agree here. I would rather build a soil to my source water and nutrients. Far more reliable and stable than using a ph down to try to change the ph in the soil
Yup dropped out at 16 moved out and went to work. Regretting since but I never stopped loving learning.. only thing is I learn about what I want. When I retire I'm prob going back to school
Can't ever learn enough
 
Aqua Man

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That may work for you, but as I've explained before my waters 8.9 out the tap, can't use it that high, plants don't like it

I haven't had my pH go below 6.1 in about a year or more, ever since I started using the citric acid instead of the commercial products
Yeah I can see why it works for ya. You don't wanna be mixing nutrients in water at that ph. Citric acid breaks down very quick with bicarbonate and in general so doesn't really affect the soil pH at all. Why I feel like citric is good for soil because it's keeps the ph in range to mix nutrients well but doesn't last long at all. Once it's in the soil... The soil does the work for ph
 
Aqua Man

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I've never paid anyone to fix anything 😂 if I don't know I'm gonna damn sure spend 12 hours understanding some blueprints or a diagram. The more I read the more I understand.
Lol that's sounds like me
 
Frankster

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Good explanation but i must say to your last comment “not always”.

You must take alkalinity in to account. Most water alone unless extremely alkaline or acidic will not change the ph of a buffered potting soil no matter how much you pour through.

If you constantly add acid to water that doesnt need acidifying eventually it will build up and acidify the medium. Same goes for ph up. If you use ph up regularly it is like adding a bit of lime (calcium) to the pot every time and eventually it will build up and raise medium ph.


Much better advice to know the alkalinity of our source water and how it reacts with our medium and nutrients and adjust or not from there.

It is also more advisable to add nutrients to tap water in an amount that gets the final ph in range for proper uptake. Than to constantly adjust an improper mixture.

And really for very alkaline water (hard) it is better to mix down to 150 ppm with ro filtered water than to add acid to neutralize the calcium.

Yea, I agree with what you saying here, and I'm doing exactly that. I used to adjust the water every time (ie. 2 drops of phosphoric acid solution) and yes, I agree, that's probably counter productive, (I stopped doing this recently) as my plant medium becomes more acidic over the long haul. So I stopped doing it.

I guess what I objected to mostly, was someone suggesting that "pH" was irrelevant, and that you should only look at the water source. For many here, that might not be a viable option for them, and while I'll agree the water source is paramount to excellent results, testing pH is an overall good practice, (usually lacking among newer growers) and is cardinal to refining and developing basic skills, (ie. lot's of practice) It should be encouraged, not diminished, or marginalized.
 
Aqua Man

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Yea, I agree with what you saying here, and I'm doing exactly that. I used to adjust the water every time (ie. 2 drops of phosphoric acid solution) and yes, I agree, that's probably counter productive, (I stopped doing this recently) as my plant medium becomes more acidic over the long haul. So I stopped doing it.

I guess what I objected to mostly, was someone suggesting that "pH" was irrelevant, and that you should only look at the water source. For many here, that might not be a viable option for them, and while I'll agree the water source is paramount to excellent results, testing pH is an overall good practice, (usually lacking among newer growers) and is cardinal to refining and developing basic skills, (ie. lot's of practice) It should be encouraged, not diminished, or marginalized.
Not the way I intended it. Intended to say ph of RO is irrelevant. And alkalinity is an important consideration of ph. So many growers have issues with ph and much of the time that's due to alkalinity. Most new growers are not even aware of alkalinity or its role when looking at all these ph measurements.
 
Frankster

Frankster

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Yeah I agree here. I would rather build a soil to my source water and nutrients. Far more reliable and stable than using a ph down to try to change the ph in the soil

Yea, I think simple is good. And I want to make it very clear here, your certainly a far more advance grower than I, that said. I've spent most of my life writing on a daily basis, in the medical profession, and conveying information, though documentation.

I've have the same issues, you've got a lot of thoughts, and your trying to get them out there. Brevity, using concise and exact words can be challenging, but extremely effective. Don't be afraid to go back, and cut some things out, ie. (edit) it might help you focus your thoughts, to hone in on the main issues your trying to convey.

Don't worry about word structure or transition words, either, it means very little in this sort of stuff.
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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Yea, I think simple is good. And I want to make it very clear here, your certainly a far more advance grower than I, that said. I've spent most of my life writing on a daily basis, in the medical profession, and conveying information, though documentation.

I've have the same issues, you've got a lot of thoughts, and your trying to get them out there. Brevity, using concise and exact words can be challenging, but extremely effective. Don't be afraid to go back, and cut some things out, ie. (edit) it might help you focus your thoughts, to hone in on the main issues your trying to convey.

Don't worry about word structure or transition words, either, it means very little in this sort of stuff.
Hey I appreciate the honest feedback bro... I think your right after rereading it. I'm pretty tied up to sit down and think till next week but I agree I can clean it up a bit. Afterall it was intended to be a simple easy to understand explanation. So if I can make it better than it will serve ppl better.
 
Frankster

Frankster

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I would suggest azomite, as an amendment for soil, for buffering ph. I've started using it recently and it's simply amazing.

Azomite is hydrated sodium calcium aluminosilicate derived from a natural volcanic mineral deposit. ... I has a ph of 8 (somewhat alkaline) but it doesn't seem to raise or lower ph in soil, but it should work as an excellent buffer to reduce the chances of over acidity.

I use it in it's pure form, sprinkled on my seedlings, it makes them go wild, and I suspect it will make an excellent soil buffer
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Azomite improves that's been depleted of minerals and micro nutrients. It can also supplement soil that are deficient mineral concentrations, it's a natural source of trace elements.

It's a good amendment for compost and potting soil and increases size and yield of fruit as well as fending off disease. Plants simply get bigger, faster.
Sprouts
 
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MIMedGrower

MIMedGrower

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From azomite FAQ



AZOMITE Mineral Products has documented numerous University, fertilizer company, AZOMITE Distributor, and farmer field test research results. These show positive results on a variety of soils and plants all over the world. The pH of AZOMITE itself is alkaline, however adding AZOMITE does not seem to raise the pH of the soil or soil-water, so it can be used on any pH soil or soil type.




I was curious ;-)
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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I would suggest azomite, as an amendment for soil, for buffering ph. I've started using it recently and it's simply amazing.

Azomite is hydrated sodium calcium aluminosilicate derived from a natural volcanic mineral deposit. ... I has a ph of 8 (somewhat alkaline) but it doesn't seem to raise or lower ph in soil, but it should work as an excellent buffer to reduce the chances of over acidity.
Good info. Did not know that.
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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No the faq i copied above says it does not raise ph so it isnt a buffer just a source of trace elements.
Oh I thought that's what he said it doesn't affect ph. Ah I see the last sentence. Reading comprehension Aqua Man reading comprehension
 
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