Hello, help with ph’ing with biobizz!

[Gleneagle87]

Hello,
Have seven autos (Fastbuds) at start of week 8 and it’s my first time using full biobizz line at 1/4 as advised by biobizz schedule in Lightmix soil. They are in 4x4 with Lumatek 300w pro at 75% at top of tent. Temp not over 24c but can go to 23.5c and rh is 65% after waterings but drops to 60% after a day.
Have had probably the best grow since starting (first organic) until I watered them with tap water only and since then no matter what I do the fan leaves keep dying to the point where one is bald and some are starting to have sugar leaves affected. Oh and Fimmed week 2/3 but no issues with it.
My tap water comes out between 7.6/8 and around 100ppm or on the 0.2 Ec side. I bottle the water and add Neutralize by ecothrive for the chlorine.
Now as there seems to be two opinions on whether or not to ph with biobizz I started off without and had great results until I added the water only in week 5. And I always wait for very light pots to water. A full feed mix at 1/4 dosage for all comes out at 6.8ph usually. (Pots where saturated with the biobizz propagation mix at 1/4 and only watered once or twice in weeks 2 and 3 then 1/4 dose of biobizz veg with fishmix instead of grow in week4) Hours after watering leaves went pale. Ppm and ec is unusable for organic I think but ph was between 6.8ph to 7.2ph so figured it was due to not phing and maybe a Calmag def. Tried dropping ph on for those needing feeding and phd (tried to bring to 6.8)and Calmag water for the ones needing water but nothing helped and they are still dying off. Thought my meters where off as a couple of the Bluelab pens I had are all over the place but thought I could rely on a Bluelab multimeter as it had newish one year old water probe but bought an apera20 and 60 just in case and they both put the ph at several points above the Bluelab and match each other so just more confusion there as they all calibrate fine and match relative solutions.
Sorry for the length just wanted to try and not miss anything.
Please Help and thank you for your time.
This feels like therapy

 

[Smokey_LaFleur]

Got any pics of your plants?

 

[Gleneagle87]

Got any pics of your plants?

Yeah sorry was worried about posting them but they will be dead within a week otherwise!

 

[KG1]

A quarter dose is really low barely feed anything of that.

You can't pH or get a pH reading of something organic until it has broken down as the acids or alkaline produced is simply not present yet.

Advisement not to put a pH meter in an organic solution as it will clog the pores of the meter and dull it down, really only meant for chemical nutrients.

Despite any info you should run Biobizz without any pH products or checking. The soil will buffer the pH trying to change that is normally not a good idea.

Your water sounds fine, 100ppm is pretty low ignore pH again as at those ppms or what we could term alkalinity it's not going to matter. Should be mainly calcium carbonate won't do anything actually sounds like good water although you generally can find water report online and get a breakdown of the ppm to be sure.

Never had an issue with Biobizz soil or feeds, should be very simple I'm sure your plants are just hungry, yellow leaves looks like nitrogen make sure they get some grow with the bloom during flower too.

 

[Choppr]

They are Nitrogen deficient from the stretch into flower...it takes a lot of energy to stretch (nitrogen = growth energy) the chlorosis (yellowing) is the plant taking stored nitrogen from the leaves (nitrogen is a mobile nutrient the plant moves around as needed) there is no saving the damaged leaves, just leave them to be used up by the Plant.

Next step, mix up the BioBizz "Grow" formula Only for the next full saturation, then go to 50/50 Grow/Bloom for another watering or 2, before going back on Bloom Only Nutrients. (this is not Ideal in flower) But you need leaves to Finish, and you do some need nitrogen to grow buds.

I also think your mixing too lean, usually with Autos you can go about 60-75% of full formula of the photoperiod strength, especially once Plants are bigger, they can handle higher doses.

 

[Gleneagle87]

Thank you for all the replies!
Think the water is extremely filtered as the area I live in uses a lot of heavy fertilizers including some banned in EU. All I found in the tests is that they keep failing to keep chlorine down to a safe level. Think it said they failed 99.98% percent of tests although I don’t really know much about it.
Sorry for carrying on ‘questioning’ just trying to understand it all, am trying to be less ignorant not doubting what you’re saying!
I thought I was supposed to ph to seven or below for anything past 7.3ph such as the Calmag only waterings that start at 7.7/8.0 which I hadn’t done when it turned bad?
Another one that is probably stupid but I thought they were deficient because they are in lockout either from too high ph or possibly now too low a ph from my messing?
I have two now ready for water that received full feed line at 1/4 mix and declined despite it so should I refeed at same level, try at 1/2 dose or use Calmaged water (tried Calmag water on others a couple of days ago after feed and just got worse)?
I had used fix mix (extra nitrates I think) with the full line up until just before stretch ended but should I swap it back in for a couple of feeds or rely on the Calmag with he waterings for deficiency?
Has gone from best grow ever to worst now!
Also if I go at 50% mix and it ph’s at say 6.5 should I add ph up or only if it goes below 6.2/6.3?
Thanks again for taking the time and I apologies for my bad explanations, tend to drone on without getting much substance out…

 

[Greenadian]

I also think your mixing too lean, usually with Autos you can go about 60-75% of full formula of the photoperiod strength, especially once Plants are bigger, they can handle higher doses.

Feed it full strength Grow this time!!

Next watering....50/50 Grow/Bloom

Do not worry about the PH.

 

[Gleneagle87]

Feed it full strength Grow this time!!

Next watering....50/50 Grow/Bloom

Do not worry about the PH.

Thanks! Just tested mix and ph is about 6.0/6.1 should I add ph up to 6.3/6.5 or just forget about ph completely? Feel like I’ve got ph ocd after synthetics, only issue I’d had with them!

 

[Greenadian]

Just ignore your OCD tendencies and let the organics do there work

 

[Gleneagle87]

Just ignore your OCD tendencies and let the organics do there work

Thank you very much for all the help Greenadian and folks! Genuinely appreciate it! Mix all ready for when they wake up!
Couldn’t believe how well they did with organic until I messed up, definitely sticking with it from now on. Will try and give an update in a bit if all goes well.
Thanks again everyone and take care!

 

[Greenadian]

Keep us posted!!

 

[Gleneagle87]

Keep us posted!!

Sorry was wondering if once I have done this growth feed then the 50/50 grow bloom feed should I go back to feed water feed (probably takes 3/5 days to dry out when healthy and depending on plant)?

 

[Greenadian]

Grow for this feeding at full strength.
Grow/Bloom feeding full strength
Bloom from there on out

 

[Gleneagle87]

Thanks again

 

[Gleneagle87]

Morning folks!
Sadly the two that I fed with growth yesterday have turned almost full yellow this morning seems to be quite a bit worse! Had picked the crispy dead leaves off them to see any change and quite a few more have crisped up.
I think it takes a few days for nutrients to release so should I wait or try something else? Trying to ignore ph but if I where using synth nutes this would be lockout from ph or burn? Have one that’ll probably need watering today, do you reckon I should carry on with the growth feed or try another? Ph of mix was 6.4 and biobizz ph down to 6.3/6.2 but not up, is it possible that 6.4 is too low? Don’t understand how I’ve messed up the easiest form of growing so gutted.

 

[Choppr]

jeez dude, it takes at least 3 days(coco) and usually a week in soil for the plants to respond to the new formula mix, as I said in my earlier comment above:

***Next step, mix up the BioBizz "Grow" formula Only for the next full saturation, then go to 50/50 Grow/Bloom for another watering or 2, before going back on Bloom Only Nutrients.

*and Yes! it is best Garden Practice to pH your water before fertigation even in Soil!

this is an easy fix unless you make it worse? If you oversaturate? you will starve roots of Oxygen, wait for dry-back before watering, and stay on course.

 

[Gleneagle87]

jeez dude, it takes at least 3 days(coco) and usually a week in soil for the plants to respond to the new formula mix, as I said in my earlier comment above:

***Next step, mix up the BioBizz "Grow" formula Only for the next full saturation, then go to 50/50 Grow/Bloom for another watering or 2, before going back on Bloom Only Nutrients.

*and Yes! it is best Garden Practice to pH your water before fertigation even in Soil!

this is an easy fix unless you make it worse? If you oversaturate? you will starve roots of Oxygen, wait for dry-back before watering, and stay on course.

Thanks wasn’t and sorry it’s hard to overthink and obsess over them when they’re sick!
Just as a baseline should I be aiming for 6.8ph or 6.5ph going in or just anything between 6.5/7?
Think I would have been alright leaving it from the get go but likely mest it up when I started messing with it… didn’t do the one today as it still had a bit of weight feel.
Sorry to drone on there’s just a few things I don’t quite get!
When you say saturate is that in a watering or repeated waterings too early?
In 12l fabric pots and usually give them around 4l using a weed sprayer type in 4x1l sittings over about 1hour for about 10% runoff and would say they’d be pretty saturated.
Incredible plants though it’s crazy the different responses to everything and how much they try to continue flowering.

 

[PlumberSoCal2]

Thank you for all the replies!
Think the water is extremely filtered as the area I live in uses a lot of heavy fertilizers including some banned in EU. All I found in the tests is that they keep failing to keep chlorine down to a safe level. Think it said they failed 99.98% percent of tests although I don’t really know much about it.
Sorry for carrying on ‘questioning’ just trying to understand it all, am trying to be less ignorant not doubting what you’re saying!
I thought I was supposed to ph to seven or below for anything past 7.3ph such as the Calmag only waterings that start at 7.7/8.0 which I hadn’t done when it turned bad?
Another one that is probably stupid but I thought they were deficient because they are in lockout either from too high ph or possibly now too low a ph from my messing?
I have two now ready for water that received full feed line at 1/4 mix and declined despite it so should I refeed at same level, try at 1/2 dose or use Calmaged water (tried Calmag water on others a couple of days ago after feed and just got worse)?
I had used fix mix (extra nitrates I think) with the full line up until just before stretch ended but should I swap it back in for a couple of feeds or rely on the Calmag with he waterings for deficiency?
Has gone from best grow ever to worst now!
Also if I go at 50% mix and it ph’s at say 6.5 should I add ph up or only if it goes below 6.2/6.3?
Thanks again for taking the time and I apologies for my bad explanations, tend to drone on without getting much substance out…

THIS is where you come to learn. There are No stupid questions.

There's literally a wealth of knowledge on these pages. Start doing some searches and see what comes up.

This isn't rocket science, nor is it easy or everyone would be doing it. Believe me when I say the most advanced growers and breeders where in your shoes at one time. This is a lot of fun and at times frustrating but worth all the effort

 

[Gleneagle87]

THIS is where you come to learn. There are No stupid questions.

There's literally a wealth of knowledge on these pages. Start doing some searches and see what comes up.

This isn't rocket science, nor is it easy or everyone would be doing it. Believe me when I say the most advanced growers and breeders where in your shoes at one time. This is a lot of fun and at times frustrating but worth all the effort

Thank you and very well put!

 

[KG1]

Bio grow is reasonably balanced will do all stages on its own, then the bloom a few mil here and there just sweetens the middle npk number.

Don't pH them you can't read organic pH because it hasn't broken down yet.

Water pH irrelevant it's alkalinity or ppms too low to change anything and why try and neutralise some calcium which will only add to the buffer.

Soil is well buffered it doesn't need any pH considerations really.

It's strange that people would say to pH anything with this stuff or such low water ppms.