uc vs aeroponics

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Bobby Smith

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Just ordered two, thanks............maybe I'll see if I can use those carbon filters as a pseudo RO system, because I'm going to be using a lot of water and would hate to waste that much RO wastewater down the drain.

EDIT: So John, since I'm planning on running from 100-125PSI, I would just need to precharge the tank to 98PSI, correct? And that's a one time thing, and can be done before anything else is hooked up, correct?

Asking because I'd rather just take it to a gas station (a petrol station, as you'd call it) and fill it up there with a mechanical air pump (which obviously also has a pressure gauge on it).

Probably cost $.75 vs. finding a pump and air pressure gauge.
 
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TightBush

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bobby where did you find that PDF from on the DDP-5800. The one that you gave me was for a 60psi model. I dont understand why but that pump is listed in about 5 different models. Ive seen factory cutoff listings at 60psi, 90psi, 115 psi and 250psi. I dont understand why, guess i just have to call aquatec and get to the bottom of it. I have tried to find all the pump info on aquatecs website but they are useless.

The reason why i was interested in the 200 was just to have the extra pressure just in case i ever needed it for something stronger.

John you say manual is the cheapest and easiest but i would need alot bigger accumulator than a 4.4gal. I used ur boyles law formula and fig that i would have 1.01gal of drawdown.( drawdown is the amount of useable water that can be drawn from a hydro-pneumatic tank from the time the pressure switch cuts out, turning the pump off, until the pressure switch cuts back in, turning on the pump.)
Here is the link for the formula http://www.nationaldriller.com/Articles/Column/c04c543281b39010VgnVCM100000f932a8c0____

So I have 1 gal of usable water. Now lets say i use the red nozzles at 115psi thats about .02gpm We will say i have 2 nozzles per 5 gal bucket and i have 10 buckets. Thats 20 nozzles. 20 x .02gpm = .4gpm. Lets turn that into gal per second. .4gpm/60sec=.0066gps. Every second my solenoid is open i will be using about .0066gal. Ok stay with me here, now let say i use a timing of 3 sec on and 5 min off. I will use .0066gps x 3sec= .0198gal per cycle of 3on/5off. In 1 hour I would have about 12 cycles. 12 x .0198gal= .237gal

Now if i havent lost you yet with my way of explaining this im looking at using .237 gallons of water every hour. Lets see how many hours my 1gal of drawdown will last. 1gal / .237gal= 4.2 hours.
I think i have done everything right here and if i have then that isnt very long. I definitely dont wanna be recharging my accumlator manually 6 times a day. Even 1 time a day would be a hassle. I cant see how anyone would ever chose to pump manual. I would much rather go the route of pressure switch and solenoid. Did i do something wrong. Am i missing something?
 
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john guest

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TB
The manual method doesn`t work too well with lp aero flowrates. Four 0.45gph nozzles with 0.5sec mist duration can service a 27gal chamber.
5 gal buckets wont give you much space. You could try a single nozzle per bucket with 1 second misting durations but it may still be too much.
 
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TightBush

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TB
The manual method doesn`t work too well with lp aero flowrates. Four 0.45gph nozzles with 0.5sec mist duration can service a 27gal chamber.
5 gal buckets wont give you much space. You could try a single nozzle per bucket with 1 second misting durations but it may still be too much.

John you lost me here. Are you saying that my 125psi system is still considered Low pressure aero? If so then when does it become HP? What do you mean that 5 gal buckets wont give me much space
 
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john guest

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The pressure is fine but if you deliver too much mist in one go it soaks everything and gives you lp aero results (too wet). Small chambers are easier to overmist than large ones. A single nozzle on the timers shortest misting duration is likely to be too much for a 5 gal bucket.
The mist continues to expand and spread through the chamber after the nozzle shuts down. In a larger chamber the nozzle(s) can be aimed between the sites into relatively clear air space, giving the mist time and space to develop.
 
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TightBush

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The pressure is fine but if you deliver too much mist in one go it soaks everything and gives you lp aero results (too wet). Small chambers are easier to overmist than large ones. A single nozzle on the timers shortest misting duration is likely to be too much for a 5 gal bucket.
The mist continues to expand and spread through the chamber after the nozzle shuts down. In a larger chamber the nozzle(s) can be aimed between the sites into relatively clear air space, giving the mist time and space to develop.

Clearly i need to read more because i thought 3 sec would be fine. I also thought i wanted to spray the roots directly but apparently after reading your last post i would be better to spray into an open area and let the mist work around the roots
 
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Bobby Smith

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Yeah, three seconds is way too long.

So JG, just to double-check before I do it - since I'm planning on running from 100-125PSI, I want to precharge my expansion tank (the air part) to 98PSI, correct?
 
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tree farmer

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Yeah, three seconds is way too long.

So JG, just to double-check before I do it - since I'm planning on running from 100-125PSI, I want to precharge my expansion tank (the air part) to 98PSI, correct?
yes!
Read these links they will tell you everything you need to know to setup a pump,tank,pressure switch, etc. Hp systems are very similar to well water systems only using higher pressures.
http://www.inspectapedia.com/water/WaterPumpControls.htm
http://www.inspectapedia.com/water/WaterTankAir4.htm
 
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Bobby Smith

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yes!
Read these links they will tell you everything you need to know to setup a pump,tank,pressure switch, etc. Hp systems are very similar to well water systems only using higher pressures.
http://www.inspectapedia.com/water/WaterPumpControls.htm
http://www.inspectapedia.com/water/WaterTankAir4.htm

Merci :)

Was hoping you'd pop your head in here - still doing room setup stuff, but will be finished by tomorrow (Tuesday at the latest), and then it's all HP aero setup.............wanna get clones in the system by Friday, so three days to plumb and wire everything............lol, this should be interesting :)

EDIT: was gonna precharge the tank at my local gas station but those sons of bitches didn't have a pressure gauge on the air compressor...........prolly just buy one from Home Depot and then return it.
 
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john guest

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Its best to buy a footpump and a digital pressure gauge so you can check and adjust the precharge from time to time.
Apart from the hassle of unhooking the tank and carting it off to the garage once a week just to check the precharge, i wouldn`t trust a garage gauge to be anywhere near accurate, hence the need for a digital.
 
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Bobby Smith

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Gotcha, thanks - figured it was a one-time thing, but if it needs to be checked and adjusted from time to time, might as well buy a real pump and gauge for it.
 
squarepusher

squarepusher

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correct me if I'm wrong, but shouldnt' we deflate the pre-charge on the expansion tank, so it can hold more and be less work on the pump?
 
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john guest

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The precharge allows the water volume to start at a minimum pressure of say 98psi. Below 98psi the tank is empty, or more accurately, its full of air at 98psi and no water. This gives you the maximum amount of water the tank can hold fom 98psi upwards. If you set the precharge lower you`ll have a lot of water sitting in the tank you can`t use :)
 
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Bobby Smith

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Here`s the wiring diagram with the socket viewed from the top. I`ve assumed the pins will take the shortest route to the screw terminals as I couldnt find any info on the socket. It wont take 5 minutes to wire it up.

John, does this diagram apply to the 120V wiring as well?

And what exactly is that pink "link"? Just a single wire connecting those two "numbers"?
 
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john guest

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Hi Bob
The pink link simply takes +12v power from the +12v terminal of the timer to the relay common.
If the timer is 120v and the solenoids are 120v you can do it that way or you can use both poles of the relay to switch both live and neutral at the same time.
With 120v you`ll need to make sure you common up any grounds (earths) using a connector block or a "wire nut".
Double check the pin numbers on the socket are in agreement with the diagram before you wire it up. I assumed they`d take the shortest route but they might not.
It seems like a fair bet to me as the timer power and relay commons are on one side of the socket and all the relay outputs are on the other :)
 
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Bobby Smith

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Got the timer and solenoids wired up, thanks John.

Now I've got a question - ordered this pressure switch - please tell me it's not just for air and I wasted money buying it..........not the biggest deal ever, but I sure hope it can handle water and isn't only for air.



Fuck, it seems certain now that it is only for air...........fuck, fuck, fuck.........

EDIT: I want this one, don't I? Serves me right for buying something without asking you.........Jesus.
 
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john guest

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Hi Bob
Glad the wiring went ok. You are right about the switches, the 1st one is for an air compressor it has an unloader valve. You could send it back for a refund?
The 2nd pressure switch looks like it`ll last for years, nice build quality.
 
tokinupon1

tokinupon1

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My question is in spray nozzles what are u guys using? How are they working? Just looking around finding alot of choices. Also anyone find some higher psi No drips? Most of the ones I'm finding are like 30psi and then Jump to like 150-200 psi.
 
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Bobby Smith

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Hi Bob
Glad the wiring went ok. You are right about the switches, the 1st one is for an air compressor it has an unloader valve. You could send it back for a refund?
The 2nd pressure switch looks like it`ll last for years, nice build quality.

Just ordered the other one........and for $30, not worth the hassle of shipping it back, etc. - maybe I'll use it for when I go the air assisted route?

Who the hell knows...........but thanks for all your help, John - I'm starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel.
 
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