Insect Frass

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Seamaiden

Seamaiden

Living dead girl
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Ocean water is like human blood and humans are unable to duplicate it in a lab.
This is 100% true. It's why I preferred using filtered seawater over salt mix when I was keeping miniature reef. LBAOP uses filtered seawater, too, even though they don't really keep much in the way of inverts.
 
Ecompost

Ecompost

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Good points. Wanted to share since you mentioned some interesting ideas.
There is an excellent book called Fertility from the ocean deep that eloborates on ocean water benefits for agriculture. Highly recommended.

Ocean water is like human blood and humans are unable to duplicate it in a lab.
The sea water contains many critical enzyme co factors that are critical to enzymes in order to complete biochemical processes in the soil. Vanadium, titanium, selenium etc.
Each enzyme fits a co-factor like a nut fits a wrench. But there is only one process associated with the enzyme.
For example: Mineral A is a co factor for enzyme A. But mineral A is not a co-factor for enzyme B.
Nitrogen fixing, calcium availability etc.
For example:
If you do not have cobalt in the soil, it is critical to making b12.
If you are lacking in b12, calcium availability then could then be lacking.
Thanks
CoBalt is an interesting element, without it we would really struggle since its crucial for cell/ nutrient uptake. We have a plant based version of B12 cobalt, BA B12 if you like, part of a fermented plant program we use, All plants in it are grown in custom profiles with relevant supporting partner plants.

We use sea water a fair bit also, both fermented and in the 1:30 ratio non fermented, its great stuff. We also had some fairly interesting results from a bunch of Bio Char that was pre soaked in sea minerals and then air dried before adding to media. All treated plants had the least heat stress with noticeable benefits over other inputs we used to charge the bio char, including BSM. Its as effective as a fish hydrolysate but cheaper of course :-)
 
Ecompost

Ecompost

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@Funkadelic sheeeit, I was an English major. Didn't write this myself, just found it and read it over a couple times. Thanks for the shout out regarding the paint strainer bags, I just so happen to have some on the shelf.

@Ecompost thanks for the insights, sir. Quite thought-provoking as always. Are you positing that the npk shown in the above test results is different than if I mixed chelated minerals to reach the same values? Different in that, because it is derived from Organics, the plant will just take what it needs off of the table (so to speak) whereas with salts it's being force-fed?

Correct me if I'm wrong, but, from what I understand, there is no cut and dry formula for determining the exact available npk from organic additives due to all the variables that make them bio-available. Nothing like hydro buddy or cannastats. I am/was considering finding how many grams are in a 1/2 c of the frass and using that and the above lab analysis to find out precise ppms of the stuff and tailoring the dosage to my nute profile.

I was racking my brain against this idea all day and decided it may be best to simply top dress small amounts of the frass every other week (1tbsp/gal of medium, like with ewc), take notes, and possibly double up the last 3-4 weeks of flower.

I was picturing I'd have to treat frass applications like MOAB or the like, bumping down the ec of my base fertilizer by half before adding a high pk solution made from soaking the frass.
You are quite right to suggest its virtually impossible to be accurate on PPMs in organics, save to say we have to continue to feed the microbes, and they need to know there is more, or they will start a fight with our plant for the N.
This is why typical regimes are feed all the time. Its less about knowing the PPMS, rather more about knowing your plant has enough when it wants and this will be linked to a very specific exudate and a given plant cycle, and of course enough organic matter, and relevant organisms to process it
even if we take the synth mineral model, then we can only say that we have input xPPMs N, not how much is used, and how much is in NO3- versus NH4+ How much PPM does plant A need, and is this the same as plant B? How much is leaching? How much is binding?
There are charts that help guide us to the optimum PPMS, but in truth we are still guessing or carpet bombing right. Unless we have very high end testing kit, we really are as much in the dark as any organic grower my feel.

In organics, what we can say, organism x say Azotobacter for example, might fix Ykg/Hectare of N, but as you already know this is based on a number of other controlling variables such as kinetics, moisture or other. In the case of Frass, its ability to introduce Chitin based carbohydrates, to indoor gardens so supplementing the availability for microbes to access proteins and enzymes , pivotal in the conversion from organic to ionic N, means you are more likely to maintain a rate of conversion suited to the plant.
This is a pretty good ref on the players etc for say N fixation. I think the point of Organics is to stop worrying if you have the right ingredients at the right time and here in lays one of the many attractions.

On adding Frass, I would only add frass up to week 3 bloom, after which there would little value in its addition imo, this being related to the use of Chtinase via root systems tending to happen from seed up to about day 21 bloom, after which we rarely see Chtin based release and so one might pose the idea its inclusion beyond this point is a waste of energy and money. I use a liquid Chitosan which gives me a wider range of flexibility since i am already aware of the time taken to degrade the matter in this form, I can be more certain of the levels by this key stage marker.


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Nitrogen is a critical limiting element for plant growth and production. It is a major component of chlorophyll, the most important pigment needed for photosynthesis, as well as amino acids, the key building blocks of proteins. It is also found in other important biomolecules, such as ATP and nucleic acids. Even though it is one of the most abundant elements (predominately in the form of nitrogen gas (N2) in the Earth’s atmosphere), plants can only utilize reduced forms of this element. Plants acquire these forms of “combined” nitrogen by: 1) the addition of ammonia and/or nitrate fertilizer (from the Haber-Bosch process) or manure to soil, 2) the release of these compounds during organic matter decomposition, 3) the conversion of atmospheric nitrogen into the compounds by natural processes, such as lightning, and 4) biological nitrogen fixation (Vance 2001).

Biological nitrogen fixation (BNF), discovered by Beijerinck in 1901 (Beijerinck 1901), is carried out by a specialized group of prokaryotes. These organisms utilize the enzyme nitrogenase to catalyze the conversion of atmospheric nitrogen (N2) to ammonia (NH3). Plants can readily assimilate NH3 to produce the aforementioned nitrogenous biomolecules. These prokaryotes include aquatic organisms, such as cyanobacteria, free-living soil bacteria, such as Azotobacter, bacteria that form associative relationships with plants, such as Azospirillum, and most importantly, bacteria, such as Rhizobium and Bradyrhizobium, that form symbioses with legumes and other plants (Postgate 1982). These organisms are summarized in Figure 1.


chart_29Nov11_1_2.jpg

Figure 1
Nitrogen-fixing organisms found in agricultural and natural systems.

The Process
The reduction of atmospheric nitrogen is a complex process that requires a large input of energy to proceed (Postgate 1982). The nitrogen molecule is composed of two nitrogen atoms joined by a triple covalent bond, thus making the molecule highly inert and nonreactive. Nitrogenase catalyzes the breaking of this bond and the addition of three hydrogen atoms to each nitrogen atom.

Microorganisms that fix nitrogen require 16 moles of adenosine triphosphate (ATP) to reduce each mole of nitrogen (Hubbell & Kidder, 2009). These organisms obtain this energy by oxidizing organic molecules. Non-photosynthetic free-living microorganisms must obtain these molecules from other organisms, while photosynthetic microorganisms, such as cyanobacteria, use sugars produced by photosynthesis. Associative and symbiotic nitrogen-fixing microorganisms obtain these compounds from their host plants’ rhizospheres (National Research Council 1994, Hubbell & Kidder 2009).

Industries use the Haber-Bosch process to reduce nitrogen essentially in the same way. Conventional agriculture has depended upon this process to produce the commercial fertilizer needed to grow most of the world’s hybrid crops. But this approach comes with many consequences, including using fossil fuels for the energy needed to produce this fertilizer, the resulting carbon dioxide emissions and pollution from burning these fuels, and adverse affects on human health (Vitousek 1997).

Overuse of these chemical fertilizers has led to an upset in the nitrogen cycle and consequently to surface water as well as groundwater pollution. Increased loads of nitrogen fertilizer to freshwater, as well as marine ecosystems, has caused eutrophication, the process whereby these systems have a proliferation of microorganisms, especially algae. This “greening” of the water column has caused decreased levels of dissolved oxygen (DO) in bottom waters as planktonic algae die and fuel microbial respiration. These depleted DO levels result in massive mortality of aquatic organisms and create so-called dead zones, areas where little or no aquatic life can be found (Figure 2). Since the 1960’s, dead zones have increased exponentially worldwide, and have now been documented from over 400 systems, affecting more than 245,000 square kilometers of coastal regions (Diaz & Rosenberg 2008, Figure 3). This phenomenon is now deemed the key stressor on marine ecosystems.

1_2.jpg


more here http://www.nature.com/scitable/knowledge/library/biological-nitrogen-fixation-23570419
 
Savage Henry

Savage Henry

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Thanks everyone for the responses, I definitely learned a few things here.

@leadsled thanks for posting that chart. When it refers to an acre does it mean a ft. acre? I'm trying to find a conversion factor to calculate the ppms of amendments for cubic feet (or yards).
 
Ecompost

Ecompost

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Thanks everyone for the responses, I definitely learned a few things here.

@leadsled thanks for posting that chart. When it refers to an acre does it mean a ft. acre? I'm trying to find a conversion factor to calculate the ppms of amendments for cubic feet (or yards).
Just to add also, esp relevant for outdoor growers or no till. Organics need to be converted, this conversion based on C/N and rates of Decay as well as NPK values. Your biomass residue from the past crop will provide some NPK and just as there are charts for Guano, Kelp Alfalfa etc etc, there are charts for many common agri crops, for example Oats, Barley, Manures and so on are all listed by C/N and NPK etc. Depending on what this is, what the existing C/N ratio of the media is, existing moisture and temp therefore and time to decay past residues, there may always be inherent NPK and PPMs you might also consider and any inputs having a C/N will likely degrade at differing rates., . It is also worth noting you will need to portion N for microbes where microbes are used to decay past material or added inputs such as kelp meal and recycle in to new NPK plant ready. So in order to work out if you need to add N, even after a soil test, you would need to counter the residues if any, done simply BioN= BioC/8 where 8 is the percentage of N required by organic microbes to mineralise in to ions
 
leadsled

leadsled

GrowRU
2,145
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Thanks everyone for the responses, I definitely learned a few things here.

@leadsled thanks for posting that chart. When it refers to an acre does it mean a ft. acre? I'm trying to find a conversion factor to calculate the ppms of amendments for cubic feet (or yards).

It refers to a furrowslice acre. That is an acre 6 3/4" deep.
Weight is 2,000,000 lbs divide in half and you have 1,000,000 ppm of nutrients.


Ac foot

Source:
http://www.nrcs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUMENTS/nrcs142p2_022760.pdf
to convert cubic feet to gallons.
cubic feet x 7.48=gallons
acre-foot is 43,560 cubic feet
acre-foot = 1613.3 cubic yards
acre-foot is 325,848 gallons
1 acre foot weights 4,000,000 lbs
1 square yard = 9 square feet
Acre-furrow-slice = one acre to a depth of 6 2/3 inches. +/- 2,000,000 lbs of soil.
Acre-foot = one acre to a depth of 12 inches. 4,000,000 lbs of soil.

IMHO, Frass is an excellent product to use all the way through flower.
There is much more to the product than chitin so good to use to harvest.
Hope that helps.
 
Ecompost

Ecompost

5,134
313
It refers to a furrowslice acre. That is an acre 6 3/4" deep.
Weight is 2,000,000 lbs divide in half and you have 1,000,000 ppm of nutrients.


View attachment 594123
Source:
http://www.nrcs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUMENTS/nrcs142p2_022760.pdf
to convert cubic feet to gallons.
cubic feet x 7.48=gallons
acre-foot is 43,560 cubic feet
acre-foot = 1613.3 cubic yards
acre-foot is 325,848 gallons
1 acre foot weights 4,000,000 lbs
1 square yard = 9 square feet
Acre-furrow-slice = one acre to a depth of 6 2/3 inches. +/- 2,000,000 lbs of soil.
Acre-foot = one acre to a depth of 12 inches. 4,000,000 lbs of soil.

IMHO, Frass is an excellent product to use all the way through flower.
There is much more to the product than chitin so good to use to harvest.
Hope that helps.
cool :-)

I couldnt get enough of it mobilised to matter after about day 21, but its in there, so will be doing something and the plant defense boost is for the duration of the plant, rather than the duration of secretion :-)
 
Reeferkief

Reeferkief

36
33
Good info! I use a small amount of frass on transplants in coordination with mycorrhiza. I also use it as a foliar, and my soil has crustacean meal so chitin is present from that too.

Powdered malted grains (corn, barley) top dressed and watered in with fulvic/humic substance and/or aloe seems ideal after applying frass.
 
Ecompost

Ecompost

5,134
313
Good info! I use a small amount of frass on transplants in coordination with mycorrhiza. I also use it as a foliar, and my soil has crustacean meal so chitin is present from that too.

Powdered malted grains (corn, barley) top dressed and watered in with fulvic/humic substance and/or aloe seems ideal after applying frass.
Plants get the most benefit from SAR/ JAR via Chitin pathways up to about day 21 of flower, after which the protein is no longer secreted. to my knowledge. The practice of accompanying it with Mycos is a very sound one mate.

I make a Chitin based liquid carbohydrate root stimulant for just this purpose. The benefit of the liquid over a meal in put is a better range of control over the amount of present during later growing periods. I also have a liquid Oxygen supplement its a complex that contains a high number of O2 atoms. Combining this with the Liquid Chitocarbs is blowing all my root mass records off the charts :-)
Chtin has a profound impact on repairing root nematode damage and preventing continued stress, adding a drench K+AMINO would smash up the nematodes via filamentous yeast and soil fungus (bio controls) so providing the perfect balance of microbes, O2 and ready proteins supporting increased N fixation :-) This is the BOX way
 
Reeferkief

Reeferkief

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Indeed bud I haven't got to make liquid chitin yet, what did you use? I was thinking crustacean meal/frass combo diversity of natural occurring microbes in the dry materials would add some benefits, I assume. If I was close to the coast Velella would be another cool option(has a chitinous sail), and should have good properties from SW. What would be ideal to use? LAB, BRV, IMOs, sugars? Heat and a strong base (NaOH) to get it in the bio form chitosan? @Ecompost
 
Ecompost

Ecompost

5,134
313
Indeed bud I haven't got to make liquid chitin yet, what did you use? I was thinking crustacean meal/frass combo diversity of natural occurring microbes in the dry materials would add some benefits, I assume. If I was close to the coast Velella would be another cool option(has a chitinous sail), and should have good properties from SW. What would be ideal to use? LAB, BRV, IMOs, sugars? Heat and a strong base (NaOH) to get it in the bio form chitosan? @Ecompost

I used the following mate....
colloidal chitin preparation was done according to the method described by Rodriguez et al., 1983. The colloidal chitin suspension was prepared by dissolving 200 g of ground Crustacean chitin (0-25 mm) in 1.8 liter of con.HCI but I see no reason it can not be done with a BRV. But for the sake of ease, time constraints, and so I better understood the chemistry involved I used a standard con HCI

The acid was added to the chitin with stirring and the mixture was allowed to stand at 20°C with intermittent stirring until dissolved (1.5-2 hr). As a polyacetal, chitin is sensitive to acids and can be easily hydrolyzed even more than cellulose, that is why caution must be taken during preparation of colloidal form during the time contact with HCl which must not be exceeded. The solution was poured with stirring into a 60L container half-filled with tap water. A suspension of chitin in water was formed and additional water was added to have the final volume of 50L. The suspension was allowed to stand overnight allowing the chitin to settle and form a concentrated suspension. The supernatant liquid was slowly siphoned off and tap water was added to the resuspend chitin. This process of washing with tap water was repeated 4 times, followed by 3 washes with demineralized water. Note that the washing step may take days until most of the acidity is washed. After the final wash, the suspension was passed through a triple layer of 0.1-mm-mesh nylon cloth to remove large particles. This was replaced by centrifugation at 2000 rpm under cooling using a table top centrifuge.

The resulting chitin was suspended and had a pH of 5.5-6.0 and was stored in the dark at 4°C until used, the chitin content of the suspension was determined gravimetrically after drying 10 ml-samples at 80°C for 24 h. The stock suspension was used to prepare others of lower concentration by diluting with demineralized water immediately prior to use. An alternative method was held on by vacuum drying of the frozen form at 35°C, as mentioned by Willis and Scott (1988), because according to its sensitivity to heat, even in the 40-50°C range it may denature with time. The drying process was done in an electric oven equipped with the vacuum facility under 650 mmHg over 3 days. :-)
 
Kygiacomo

Kygiacomo

337
63
i use frass for the microbes and chitin for the SAR on my ladys in late flowering. i bought a 5lb bag for this year to top dress my plants on week 1 of flower. i should also add that i use Regalia which activates ISR so the combo of SAR and ISR has been pretty effective for me and my climate
 
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Funkadelic

Funkadelic

808
93
I keep trying to tell people that there is not so much value in pouring NPK as the world was tricked in to believing. There are a fair few insects, and so a fair bit of NPK etc etc. Furthermore, this frass bio organic NPK does not destroy vital soil carbon as you likely know and Chitin based proteins are among some of the vital components of N fixation, and so help counter any lost productivity in sterile or managed media.

Just a little thing, Bokashi will increase related yeast fungus, and while I am super impressed with the SAR offering on my trich density, I noted that the late addition added time to any ripening process.
I find it a much better proposition to use sea minerals, non fermented but mixed at a ratio of 1:30 as a finishing solution. I am not entirely sure why yet, but the sea minerals do appear to have a response which allows a more uniform ripening, beyond using any pro biotic inputs. i tend to switch out to sea water about 2 weeks before harvest, but i do use a c14 sugar sup called Bio Floret for the first week (K malate among others) since the pro biotics do appear to keep the sugar uptake ramped, we may as well use it to the last :)

BTW, sea water is usually free but do choose a clean beach with good quality bathing water :) Mix with RO and bingo. You are doing the job of a bear feeding on salmon returning to the woods to scratch claws and have a shit, so transporting the power of the oceans in land.

I like this post a lot Henry, super work well spotted
Just ... wow. Okay.

So... 30 to 1 fresh to (clean) ocean water for flush? @Seamaiden and I have discussed salt water reef tank skimmate as a dilute supplement before.

You're seeing a healthy uniform finish this way?
 
Funkadelic

Funkadelic

808
93
This is 100% true. It's why I preferred using filtered seawater over salt mix when I was keeping miniature reef. LBAOP uses filtered seawater, too, even though they don't really keep much in the way of inverts.
I wonder if a complex, large reef tank with a lot of biodiversity and exudate would produce skimmate to compliment our fertiliser inputs. Like we discussed.

Terrestrial plants didn't evolve to break down coral excretion, but that doesn't mean it couldn't be an enormous benefit.
 
Ecompost

Ecompost

5,134
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Just ... wow. Okay.

So... 30 to 1 fresh to (clean) ocean water for flush? @Seamaiden and I have discussed salt water reef tank skimmate as a dilute supplement before.

You're seeing a healthy uniform finish this way?
yes sir, I find it can speed up the slow, while a higher dose can slow down too. I found 1:15 a little on the hot side however, plants showed a minor tip bleach and stalled for a couple of days while i brewed in some protozoa to help balance my over admission :) I find Protozoa teas to be more than a little helpful in picking up my mistakes :)
 
Ecompost

Ecompost

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I wonder if a complex, large reef tank with a lot of biodiversity and exudate would produce skimmate to compliment our fertiliser inputs. Like we discussed.

Terrestrial plants didn't evolve to break down coral excretion, but that doesn't mean it couldn't be an enormous benefit.
considering the origins of Microbial Loop, i would say you would be porting a natural cycle, al be it one which you closely manage, and this would almost certainly have benefits. I know sea water is hard to replicate, but the essential benefits of fish and marine microorganisms will be relatively harmonised in your system and so perhaps are close enough for resonance to take over. :-) do let me know. Aquaponics is riding high over here, this is a manifestation of that to some extent i guess :-)
 
Ecompost

Ecompost

5,134
313
i use frass for the microbes and chitin for the SAR on my ladys in late flowering. i bought a 5lb bag for this year to top dress my plants on week 1 of flower. i should also add that i use Regalia which activates ISR so the combo of SAR and ISR has been pretty effective for me and my climate
awesome :-) I am happy to see so many of us tending the needs of a whole system and not seeing the plant as the sole point of focus. yes we want our plants to succeed, but more and more of us know this works better if we share our work with those organisms that have been designed for that purpose also. The more you think, the harder it is to justify a visit to a store that sells things we are learning are detrimental, if not to us, then to our childrens children
 
N

Nomadic

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18
but would probably like to add black soldier flies to the mix. Problem IS that I had larvae in our garage and didn't know what they were so I fed them to my chickens. Maybe I'll find a few more before we move.

I started raising black soldier flys and feeding the larvae to my chickens. Then I found them in the pine flakes bedding and they wer eating the chicken poop. I just kept dumping the cleanout into a barrel with drainage holes around the base of it. The larvae thrived and each generation kept coming. Winter came and I dumped the barrel in a pile under some trees. This was a dead, barren area due to shade, and red sand clay that kills anything. The next spring, it was the healthiest parcel of dirt on my land (except for the heavily forested acreage.)
And it spread to a about a 30 ft radius with a beautiful lush grass of what type and origin I know not!
 
Ecompost

Ecompost

5,134
313
I started raising black soldier flys and feeding the larvae to my chickens. Then I found them in the pine flakes bedding and they wer eating the chicken poop. I just kept dumping the cleanout into a barrel with drainage holes around the base of it. The larvae thrived and each generation kept coming. Winter came and I dumped the barrel in a pile under some trees. This was a dead, barren area due to shade, and red sand clay that kills anything. The next spring, it was the healthiest parcel of dirt on my land (except for the heavily forested acreage.)
And it spread to a about a 30 ft radius with a beautiful lush grass of what type and origin I know not!
wow that is awesome
 
Reeferkief

Reeferkief

36
33
Black solider fly larva are great decomposers, the after product is up there with EWC. Both are great in different ways, BSFL eat meat and dairy products, much more efficient feeders, the harvested larvae are a high protein food source (great for chickens and reptiles), the combination sounds ideal (BSFL compost ran through worm bins). They are very fast at their job and take a little more effort to take care of and to breed (indoors at least). I recall reading about them not being able to breakdown certain things such as grass, paper, and a few other things. Since then I've always thought about a system incorporating worms and BSFL but have never actually played with BSFL. Also to keep it on topic, they could possibly be a chitin source ! DRY EM AND CRUSH EM!

I started raising black soldier flys and feeding the larvae to my chickens. Then I found them in the pine flakes bedding and they wer eating the chicken poop. I just kept dumping the cleanout into a barrel with drainage holes around the base of it. The larvae thrived and each generation kept coming. Winter came and I dumped the barrel in a pile under some trees. This was a dead, barren area due to shade, and red sand clay that kills anything. The next spring, it was the healthiest parcel of dirt on my land (except for the heavily forested acreage.)
And it spread to a about a 30 ft radius with a beautiful lush grass of what type and origin I know not!

wow that is awesome
 
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