I Need Better Nutes

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Dirtbag

Dirtbag

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The site MBferts which is advertised here has Agsil 16H. I've bought 5 pounds from it. Why buy diluted pro-tekt or some other product when you can buy pure potassium silicate?

Totally. I've had the same quart bottle of pure potassium silicate for like 3 years. It pours like clear muselage. I like to mix a half teaspoon or so into a cup of water first to dilute it and then add it to the res.
 
cemchris

cemchris

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The site MBferts which is advertised here has Agsil 16H. I've bought 5 pounds from it. Why buy diluted pro-tekt or some other product when you can buy pure potassium silicate?

That's a nice tip since the only time I found it I ended up with a 50 lbs bag so i have enough for me and the next 3 generations of my family.
 
Stockbull

Stockbull

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Good to know. Was looking at the goop today and thinking the stuff must stretch out for awhile given the viscosity of it
 
S

sweetolmaryjane

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The site MBferts which is advertised here has Agsil 16H. I've bought 5 pounds from it. Why buy diluted pro-tekt or some other product when you can buy pure potassium silicate?
That is what i was wondering. Could it be because to pure a form of potassium silicate causes more harm than good. I literally do not know
 
Dirtbag

Dirtbag

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That is what i was wondering. Could it be because to pure a form of potassium silicate causes more harm than good. I literally do not know

Potassium silicate is potassium silicate. The only thing that changes between "pure" PS and something like Protekt is the degree to which its been diluted. And it's easy enough to do that part yourself.
 
S

sweetolmaryjane

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Potassium silicate is potassium silicate. The only thing that changes between "pure" PS and something like Protekt is the degree to which its been diluted. And it's easy enough to do that part yourself.
The reason i ask is because i can buy RAW silica which is 49.9% pure silica. Whereas pro tekt is like 9 or something. The dose required for 9% is very small, leading me to think 49.9% may be overkill..i have just started using this stuff a week ago so any info besides an "lol" would be appreciated
 
Dirtbag

Dirtbag

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The difference is just that you use way less of it, that's it. One thing, RAW is elemental and not potassium silicate based, but if you dissolve it in distilled water from 50% down to 9%, you've got the same amount of silica as protekt. For easy math, roughly 1 part RAW to 4 parts water.
 
m8ty

m8ty

649
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"It's all the same shit" is what I've heard, good bud comes from grower talent not the nutrients, if you don't kill them with too much light, too many nutrients or over watering you should get to harvest great bud.
 
S

sweetolmaryjane

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"It's all the same shit" is what I've heard, good bud comes from grower talent not the nutrients, if you don't kill them with too much light, too many nutrients or over watering you should get to harvest great bud.
I know for a fact that some nutrients increase not only the quality of your buds but also the quantity of the buds.
while you are correct in what you are saying, if you want to maximize your product certain nutrients are game changers. not all nutes are the same
 
M

Moneystacs74

22
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Indeed. I'm playing with massive right now but the past few years Ive just been using straight up floranova Grow and bloom and nothing else, with excellent results. These pics have been plastered all over this board by now but hey, I'll drop them again. These buds are also GSC and were grown with nothing but 1.4-1.5ec (700-750 ppm on the 500 scale, ~1000-1100 on the 700 scale) of floranova. No calmag, no pk boosters and no carbs. And yes, they taste and smell as spectacular as they look lol.

Keep it simple is my advice. Dont bother with the 0-50-30 either, you dont need it and could easily overdo it with that. Everybody is trying to sell you stuff in this game, and a lot of things actually make the plants worse if you dont use it appropriately.

View attachment 856853View attachment 856854View attachment 856855View attachment 856856
That is amazing
 
Stockbull

Stockbull

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That is amazing

O-50-30 gone dun screwed everyone up on the actual ratios needed for proper flowering. I use it 2nd to 3rd week gradually on watering days which maybe equates to twice in the cycle and that is it.
No good in my opinion after that where the K should be twice what the P is to bring it full turn. Just my experience and understanding thus far.

Keep er green
 
roach

roach

173
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I have used Grow, Bloom and Heaven from BioBizz for years, tried some of their other products but never noticed it adding anything. And the quality of my buds is just fine 😉
 
I

Ikkt

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There are only a few additives that really work and none of them is anything near a "game changer" or something. They are all scientifically proven to work.
There are no magic bottles, otherwise they would be standard in Horticulture.
A plant is not an engine. You can't supercharge it. plain and simple.

Most stuff with profound effects has nasty pgrs or the like in it and if you really want to use those use them pure and know exactly what you got.
Most "Grower nutrient lines" with their tens of bottles are a rip off big time, often the bottle of the 50-100$ stuff costs the manufacturer more than what's in it. Don't fall for that!

If you want to "step your game up" start to know more about what your doing!
Start with basic biology and horticulture knowledge.
Don't compare nutrient lines, compare what's in them. Get to know your ppms of everything in your nutrient solution. Hydrobuddy with the function "calculate from weight" is a good tool to start.
Then you can fine tune your nutrients but more important your environment till you reach the genetic potential of your cultivars. That's all there is. More isn't possible. No Turbochargers in the plant world!

Additives that work, tried and true, scientific proven stuff (and cheap without the fancy bottle), Google and read up to know more about them. Lots of studies on G. scolar:

- Fulvic acid and potassium humate * powder - Nutrient uptake, auxin like effects, general vitality/health.
- Amino acids * agri/horticulture grade - Ca uptake, good form of N, drought and salt resistance.
- Ascophyllum Nodosum, not just any "kelp" * agri/horti grade powder - has aminos, sugars, vitamins and a lot of plant hormones like cytokinins, general plant vitality, bushier plants, good for stressed plants.
- Chitosan * agri/horti or reagent grade powder (lactate/acetate/glutamate - water soluble!) - great stuff, helps with general plant health, mysterious deficiencies just disappear, more resin, SAR, mold and mildew resistance and on and on.
- UVC light treatment * build your own cheap, but take precautions, you don't want any contact! - kills spores and nasty stuff, induces SAR, induces jasmonic acid/jasmonate production, more smell more resin, my plants love it. But don't burn em with it, start slowly, take a plant to experiment. I give mine a treatment per week.
- Worm casting tea sprayed till early/mid flower * make your own - general health, no bud rot no mildew.
- Triacontanol * reagent grade or whatever - kind of plant steroid for a short burst of extra power, helps with budsetting and with more resin, active ingredient in most boosters that don't contain harmful nasty pgrs.

If you learn to use your basic nutrients and those additives listed nobody even with a hundred bottles will be outgrowing you except he has way better genetics/environment!

As someone said already:
If you want to be a better grower learn to be a better grower. That is hard work and no bottle whatsoever can replace hours of learning the basics of gardening/biology/horticulture and not to forget the years of experience!


Edit:
Monopotassium phosphate has way too much P, you can use dipotassium phosphate or tripotassium phosphate (sp?) instead!
 
MIMedGrower

MIMedGrower

17,190
438
There are only a few additives that really work and none of them is anything near a "game changer" or something. They are all scientifically proven to work.
There are no magic bottles, otherwise they would be standard in Horticulture.
A plant is not an engine. You can't supercharge it. plain and simple.

Most stuff with profound effects has nasty pgrs or the like in it and if you really want to use those use them pure and know exactly what you got.
Most "Grower nutrient lines" with their tens of bottles are a rip off big time, often the bottle of the 50-100$ stuff costs the manufacturer more than what's in it. Don't fall for that!

If you want to "step your game up" start to know more about what your doing!
Start with basic biology and horticulture knowledge.
Don't compare nutrient lines, compare what's in them. Get to know your ppms of everything in your nutrient solution. Hydrobuddy with the function "calculate from weight" is a good tool to start.
Then you can fine tune your nutrients but more important your environment till you reach the genetic potential of your cultivars. That's all there is. More isn't possible. No Turbochargers in the plant world!

Additives that work, tried and true, scientific proven stuff (and cheap without the fancy bottle), Google and read up to know more about them. Lots of studies on G. scolar:

- Fulvic acid and potassium humate * powder - Nutrient uptake, auxin like effects, general vitality/health.
- Amino acids * agri/horticulture grade - Ca uptake, good form of N, drought and salt resistance.
- Ascophyllum Nodosum, not just any "kelp" * agri/horti grade powder - has aminos, sugars, vitamins and a lot of plant hormones like cytokinins, general plant vitality, bushier plants, good for stressed plants.
- Chitosan * agri/horti or reagent grade powder (lactate/acetate/glutamate - water soluble!) - great stuff, helps with general plant health, mysterious deficiencies just disappear, more resin, SAR, mold and mildew resistance and on and on.
- UVC light treatment * build your own cheap, but take precautions, you don't want any contact! - kills spores and nasty stuff, induces SAR, induces jasmonic acid/jasmonate production, more smell more resin, my plants love it. But don't burn em with it, start slowly, take a plant to experiment. I give mine a treatment per week.
- Worm casting tea sprayed till early/mid flower * make your own - general health, no bud rot no mildew.
- Triacontanol * reagent grade or whatever - kind of plant steroid for a short burst of extra power, helps with budsetting and with more resin, active ingredient in most boosters that don't contain harmful nasty pgrs.

If you learn to use your basic nutrients and those additives listed nobody even with a hundred bottles will be outgrowing you except he has way better genetics/environment!

As someone said already:
If you want to be a better grower learn to be a better grower. That is hard work and no bottle whatsoever can replace hours of learning the basics of gardening/biology/horticulture and not to forget the years of experience!


Edit:
Monopotassium phosphate has way too much P, you can use dipotassium phosphate or tripotassium phosphate (sp?) instead!


Excellent post!

Would like to add that the seaweed listed can be purchased as a liquid extract and also has naturally chelated trace elements.
 

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