Using Perfect PH from Advanced Nutrients. My ph is 7.7

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JWM2

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Aqua Man said:
Yeah distilled and RO water have to have buffers addeded back. Ph perfect is hydro and contains buffers so once added it stabilizes the ph. I would say this is why chasing it usually results in problems
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Yup you hit the nail on the head IMO. Most likely the nute has the required minerals and metals mixed in with it to make it as easy as possible to use. However if you mix this in with unpurified water you're going to have issues sooner or later.
 
Aqua Man

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JWM2 said:
Yup you hit the nail on the head IMO. Most likely the nute has the required minerals and metals mixed in with it to make it as easy as possible to use. However if you mix this in with unpurified water you're going to have issues sooner or later.
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Yeah not a good fert for tap, well or other. Has to be used with RO from my understanding.
 
Hanta

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Iv'e heard of water temp changing the ph perfect technology. in the 60s its good but if you go over 70 it throws it off
 
Aqua Man

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Hanta said:
Iv'e heard of water temp changing the ph perfect technology. in the 60s its good but if you go over 70 it throws it off
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Rings a bell but I cannot confirm. By the end of the thread there should be some good info in here for others using it 😁
 
JWM2

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Aqua Man said:
Yeah not a good fert for tap, well or other. Has to be used with RO from my understanding.
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I found out the hard way that not too many nutrient lines play well with tap water in my area. My tap water comes out at over 350-400ppms and there's just not much you can do with it. It won't have a negative effect for a few weeks but as the minerals and metals accumulate in the growing medium it will wreak havoc on the root zone ecosystem (rhizosphere). Switching back to RO water has alleviated the problems entirely. I used to collect rain water and noticed it's ppm was damn near 0 which makes sense as it's basically distilled water. So outdoor grows get a steady supply of purified water and tend to have the least amount of nutrient uptake issues due to that. Pure clean 0ppm water is worth it's weight in gold IMO.
 
Aqua Man

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JWM2 said:
I found out the hard way that not too many nutrient lines play well with tap water in my area. My tap water comes out at over 350-400ppms and there's just not much you can do with it. It won't have a negative effect for a few weeks but as the minerals and metals accumulate in the growing medium it will wreak havoc on the root zone ecosystem (rhizosphere). Switching back to RO water has alleviated the problems entirely. I used to collect rain water and noticed it's ppm was damn near 0 which makes sense as it's basically distilled water. So outdoor grows get a steady supply of purified water and tend to have the least amount of nutrient uptake issues due to that. Pure clean 0ppm water is worth it's weight in gold IMO.
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You need RO 200 ppm would be absolutely the max for me even then I would cut at 50/50 depending on the makeup. I'm lucky about 120ppm usually and I have no issues. But I might with this nutrient line.

I should add for hydro... You may get away with a bit more in soil. And outdoors in the ground you should not have any issues with higher ppm.
 
JWM2

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Aqua Man said:
You need RO 200 ppm would be absolutely the max for me even then I would cut at 50/50 depending on the makeup. I'm lucky about 120ppm usually and I have no issues. But I might with this nutrient line.
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Sure that's still a fairly pure water, it's just when you get into the 300s and above it's hard to say what the makeup of that ppm is and not knowing can have you chasing your tail. If you keep your water near 100 ppm you don't have enough dissolved solids to really cause much buildup in the growing medium.

As an added benefit the 100ppm of dissolved minerals will stabilize a ph reading and then ph becomes more consistent and measurable. With the dissolved solids being present the ph then becomes a factor as it can change the potential hydrogen in the growing medium.
 
MIMedGrower

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Aqua Man said:
Yeah not a good fert for tap, well or other. Has to be used with RO from my understanding.
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That info from advanced on you posted says any water from 4 to 8.5 ph. Cant remember if it said ppm’s but dont think so.

How can they buffer to a certain ph without mixing for source water ph?

My well water is 8.0 ph but only has 150 ppm mineral content according to my meter. But many have well water with 8.0 ph and twice or 3 times the mineral content.

Doesnt seem like it could work for any water like they claim.
 
newh

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MIMedGrower said:
That info from advanced on you posted says any water from 4 to 8.5 ph. Cant remember if it said ppm’s but dont think so.

How can they buffer to a certain ph without mixing for source water ph?

My well water is 8.0 ph but only has 150 ppm mineral content according to my meter. But many have well water with 8.0 ph and twice or 3 times the mineral content.

Doesnt seem like it could work for any water like they claim.
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I wont buy anything from AN,Big Mike is a crook and not just with their ridiculously priced nutrients...
 
chuey316

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Hopefully water temp won't affect the ph too much. My temps are in the 72-73f range. Can't get em any lower than that here during this summer heat. That's with running my lights at 250w, rather than the 400w that I would normally run at.

Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but when it comes to feeding, if I check my levels, and the water has gone down, but the ppm's have gone up, then the plants need less feed. If the ppm's drop faster than the water, they need more feed. If the water level drops, as well as the ppm's fairly equally, then its just right. Would this be correct? I would think that the ppm's raising as water drops could also be a lockout, but there'd be signs I'm sure.

Another question. How long till I should start seeing the leaves perk back up? My Jungle wreck (the one I posted the pic of) is still very droopy.
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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MIMedGrower said:
That info from advanced on you posted says any water from 4 to 8.5 ph. Cant remember if it said ppm’s but dont think so.

How can they buffer to a certain ph without mixing for source water ph?

My well water is 8.0 ph but only has 150 ppm mineral content according to my meter. But many have well water with 8.0 ph and twice or 3 times the mineral content.

Doesnt seem like it could work for any water like they claim.
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Unless they have a Harry Potter wand I have no idea. You need to know how much carbonate hardness in order to calculate the amount of acid needed to reach the ph you want.

I must have missed it or not read that far. I was so irate at the claims I literally had to copy paste the link and rage about it before I blew up.
 
MIMedGrower

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Aqua Man said:
Unless they have a Harry Potter wand I have no idea. You need to know how much carbonate hardness in order to calculate the amount of acid needed to reach the ph you want.

I must have missed it or not read that far. I was so irate at the claims I literally had to copy paste the link and rage about it before I blew up.
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Magic! Of course its magic. Silly me and believing our “government” ag sector and universities info about these things.

:-)
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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chuey316 said:
Hopefully water temp won't affect the ph too much. My temps are in the 72-73f range. Can't get em any lower than that here during this summer heat. That's with running my lights at 250w, rather than the 400w that I would normally run at.

Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but when it comes to feeding, if I check my levels, and the water has gone down, but the ppm's have gone up, then the plants need less feed. If the ppm's drop faster than the water, they need more feed. If the water level drops, as well as the ppm's fairly equally, then its just right. Would this be correct? I would think that the ppm's raising as water drops could also be a lockout, but there'd be signs I'm sure.

Another question. How long till I should start seeing the leaves perk back up? My Jungle wreck (the one I posted the pic of) is still very droopy.
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The ppm usually will go up a bit. If it's going down you need to feed more. If it's going up quite a bit then you should lower. Equal is usually about right but it's not always the case and I would say rising slightly is normal. Humidity can impact this. It's more of a guideline than a rule.
 
MIMedGrower

MIMedGrower

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chuey316 said:
Hopefully water temp won't affect the ph too much. My temps are in the 72-73f range. Can't get em any lower than that here during this summer heat. That's with running my lights at 250w, rather than the 400w that I would normally run at.

Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but when it comes to feeding, if I check my levels, and the water has gone down, but the ppm's have gone up, then the plants need less feed. If the ppm's drop faster than the water, they need more feed. If the water level drops, as well as the ppm's fairly equally, then its just right. Would this be correct? I would think that the ppm's raising as water drops could also be a lockout, but there'd be signs I'm sure.

Another question. How long till I should start seeing the leaves perk back up? My Jungle wreck (the one I posted the pic of) is still very droopy.
Click to expand...



Sorry for this negative answer but yes temp and ec will vary with temperarure. Temp is the most important factor in growing conditions in my opinion. If water or room temp is out of range it can cause problems.

The real reason we hand waterers leave tap water out for a day before using is to get it to a decent range of temp. Mine comes out of the well at 55-65 degrees farenheight max. A little too cold for good uptake.

For hydro even more important as i understand it as the roots need direct uptake.
 
Aqua Man

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MIMedGrower said:
As long as the source water is in range buffered soil needs no special treatment or ph adjusting at all. Any nutrients can work if properly applied.
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I agree properly built soil does not need the feed ph'ed the soil will buffer it. I don't grow in soil but I'm basing that off my understanding of buffers and acids and how they react. I used to use peat moss in a nylon to lower my tap ph to ideal ranges for my discus. I would add limestone rock to my African cichlid tank to raise the ph since they like hard water. I wouldn't matter the ph of water going in other than how quickly it would adjust as long as I had enough of either.
 
chuey316

chuey316

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MIMedGrower said:
Sorry for this negative answer but yes temp and ec will vary with temperarure. Temp is the most important factor in growing conditions in my opinion. If water or room temp is out of range it can cause problems.

The real reason we hand waterers leave tap water out for a day before using is to get it to a decent range of temp. Mine comes out of the well at 55-65 degrees farenheight max. A little too cold for good uptake.

For hydro even more important as i understand it as the roots need direct uptake.
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Yeah, from what I understand the optimal water temp for dwc is 65-68f. I've read many posts saying that anything past 70 is no good, and asking for root rot. Then I've read just as many posts saying that over 70 is fine, just use benies (reason for the hydroguard), even some people stating that they have no issues with 80-85f water.
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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MIMedGrower said:
Sorry for this negative answer but yes temp and ec will vary with temperarure. Temp is the most important factor in growing conditions in my opinion. If water or room temp is out of range it can cause problems.

The real reason we hand waterers leave tap water out for a day before using is to get it to a decent range of temp. Mine comes out of the well at 55-65 degrees farenheight max. A little too cold for good uptake.

For hydro even more important as i understand it as the roots need direct uptake.
Click to expand...
Yeah but at 72 he should be good. I think ideal water temp for optimal growth is about 77f much higher and DO levels might suffer to much. Also the ideal temp for explosive bacterial growth good and bad. Once you get below mid 60's nutrient uptake is far from the ideal 77ish. Most strive for 68-70 as a happy medium. I have run many tanks cold water and warm tropical with fish with plants and seen first hand the difference in how fast a bacterial bloom can take over a tank. This is where warmer temps you either need to be sterile and very on top of it or have a good strong bacterial colony. That's where the hydrogaurd comes in.
 
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