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Oh, I hadn't seen that yet. Have you done the math on how much it ends up being per gallon? I'm paying about $0.08/gallon including IPM.

ABA, perhaps? https://www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/fpls.2017.00475/full You are still paying the hydro store "green tax" and to ship water with Athena. I just use Jacks/MB/Cal Nit, fulvic acid and insecticidal soap for IPM. Cheap and works well.

The SDS will give you clues as to what is in it. Unfortunately, New Millennium is misleading what is in their products, which make them snake oil salesmen. It looks like a PK booster, but I assume there is something in there that induces senescence like an input that causes oxidative stress or...

You've got some issues if you are going to use this as a liquid concentrate. Kelp is typically kept at a high pH to stay suspended and soluble. Fulvic acid as a concentrate is typically kept at a low pH to stay suspended and soluble. Humic acid is long chain organic matter and fulvic is short...

If it's a salt based fertilizer, there is no expiration date. The only exception is if you introduce some kind of contamination to micronutrients. If it has organic fertilizer inputs, it's good until you see it change color, smell or consistency.

It's just calcium chloride and boron with a couple drops of surfactant. If you have Hydrobuddy, you can make your own for pennies.

You got ripped off at the hydro store. I'd rather get Jack's and Cal Nit for pennies on the gallon for a better NPK start to finish.

I use the commercial wholesale version, AGT-50. Mr. Fulvic is the same formula, but intended for home and garden. Yes it is 0.5-1ml/gallon. Most fulvic additives like Ful-Power contain just water. They make it as concentrated as possible to save on shipping for consumers.

Canna Boost is just vinasse from molasses. It has sugar, complexing agents (not chelating) trace minerals and aminos. It tends to make everything taste the same like AN Bud Candy. I would use a fulvic acid additive like Mr. Fulvic that is fulvic acid (chelating agent), amino and organic acids...

That NPK looks homeopathic.

Some folks use it week 1-7 of flower. When I used that product, it was from week 4-6 of flower.

It should be magnesium nitrate. Calcium and sulfate can't go together or it makes a precipitate in the bottle.

Jack's and Masterblend is all you need for a base. Maybe a fulvic and kelp. The rest is just snake oil.

It's very soluble. Add 500 ml DI/RO water to a clean vessel. Add 400g Pekacid. Top RO/DI h2O up to 1L. Shake until dissolved.

It's whatever the plants want. If they are hungry, because of full sun/CO2/fresh bulbs, give it to them. If they want 1000 ppm, that's perfectly ok.

I've blown through the 1.2 max EC with CO2 and fresh bulbs. Give the plants what they need! Also, there is sufficient magnesium. I wouldn't add epsom unless you are under LED or they are showing magnesium deficiency after raising your base nutrient. It's a 1-part for a reason.

No, it won't. Cannabis growers overuse phosphorus. If you look at tissue samples, there is sufficient P in Jack's RO. Must be a new biostimulant we haven't heard about. This is true. There' ya go.

Raise your base nutrient dosage.

One-Part 4-3-5 Liquid Fertilizer Add 500 ml RO/DI water to a jar Fully dissolve: Ammonium Monobasic Phosphate 35 g Potassium Sulfate 68 g Chelated Micros 3 g Then fully dissolve: Calcium Nitrate 109 g Magnesium Nitrate 107 g Top up to 1L and use just like Cogos Original

And yet, Ray Cogo is still sitting over in Lansing, MI selling his old Dutch fertilizer recipe.