"💜💜💜☮️ (UNITY GROWS) LOVE, RESPECT AND UNDERSTANDING".

[SunshineSupergirl]

So I just want to chime in with a little advice, it’s coming from a good place and I’m trying to help you. Are you using a heat mat under your seedlings? Including the strawberries that haven’t popped yet?
A lot of us indoor growers forget about how much the sun plays a crucial role in seed germination by warming up the soil. Certain seeds will not germinate to the fullest potential until soil temperatures reach a certain point. One of the things that can really slow down vigorous growth of seedlings is soil temperature, which activates the microbes that are in your soil which are crucial for healthy roots. An older more established plant doesn’t rely heavily upon soil temperature as much as a new one will. Those roots are growing in the search for moisture too, so if the soil remains moist throughout the whole pot the roots won’t grow as quickly. This is one of the biggest hurdles that any new or even old grower can face, finding the happy balance for your new seedlings. I definitely have had a tough time getting this through my head over the years. I’ve really only been doing this for seven years now. And that warmer soil is going to dry out quicker and the roots will grow quicker because of this. Unfortunately autoflowers are more difficult to grow than photo period plants because they have a small window that needs to be utilized for vigorous growth, if you miss that window you end up with a six inch plant that goes into flower and you might end up with enough weed to roll a little joint. I hope that this helps put things into perspective, your plant isn’t struggling because of a lack of nutrients, it’s more than likely struggling to establish itself in the root department.

Yeah I don't have a heat mat, I didn't think it was necessary in such a small space, but I do have a soil thermometer and I just tested my soil temperature where my plant is...76° at near the middle, 75° closer to the bottom.

I totally get it though, my roots aren't REALLY developing.

I have my heat set at 78° , the very bottom floor reading at night is 75°

My air temps are closer to 79° with the lights on.

I REALLY appreciate the advice

 

[SunshineSupergirl]

I put some seeds in the refrigerator about a month ago, and I was just thinking, yesterday or the day before, that I need to get those germinated.

Yeah they say lavender, strawberry and mint should be cold stratuTed 1st before planting, I only just learned about this, it may be why my strawberry seeds haven't germinated.

The cold process is better for some seeds.

 

[SunshineSupergirl]

I'm PHing my water to 6.3 now or just about with White Distilled Vinegar.

I saw some videos of cannabis growers who say it's better than lemon juice as it's not as harmful to soil microbes.

I know a lot of people use pH up and down, but I decided to go with the vinegar.

Multiple sources are saying it's good.

Critical Purple Autoflowers from all the sources I've seen suggest a pH of 6.3

 

[Bobcat.Branch]

Yeah they say lavender, strawberry and mint should be cold stratuTed 1st before planting, I only just learned about this, it may be why my strawberry seeds haven't germinated.

The cold process is better for some seeds.

AI says:

The science behind putting lavender seeds (and seeds of many other perennial plants, shrubs, and trees from temperate climates) in the refrigerator before planting is a process called cold stratification or moist-chilling.

Here's the breakdown of the science:

* Seed Dormancy: Many seeds, especially those native to regions with cold winters, have evolved a natural dormancy mechanism. This prevents them from germinating prematurely, for instance, during a warm spell in late autumn, only to be killed by the subsequent winter freeze. The dormancy ensures they wait until after the cold period has passed, signaling the arrival of favorable spring growing conditions.

* Mimicking Winter: Cold stratification artificially simulates the natural winter conditions that these seeds would experience outdoors. By exposing the seeds to a period of cold, moist conditions, you are essentially tricking them into thinking they have gone through winter.

* Physiological Changes: During the cold, moist period, several physiological changes occur within the seed:

* Breaking Down Inhibitors: Hormones or chemical compounds that inhibit germination are gradually broken down.

* Activating Promoters: Growth-promoting hormones may be synthesized or activated.

* Softening Seed Coat: While less critical for lavender than for some other seeds, the moisture can help soften the seed coat slightly, making it easier for the seedling to emerge.

* Improved and Uniform Germination: After the stratification period, when the seeds are removed from the cold and placed in warm, moist conditions suitable for planting, the dormancy has been broken. This leads to:

* Higher Germination Rates: More seeds are likely to sprout successfully.

* More Uniform Germination: Seeds tend to germinate around the same time, rather than sporadically over weeks or months (or not at all).

In summary:
Refrigerating lavender seeds before germination is a way to overcome their natural dormancy by simulating winter conditions. This process triggers internal changes in the seed, breaking down germination inhibitors and preparing the seed to sprout readily when favorable (warm and moist) conditions are provided, resulting in better and more synchronized germination.

 

[Bobcat.Branch]

Here is a list of common plants whose seeds often benefit from or require cold stratification (a period of cold, moist conditions) to germinate properly. This process mimics the natural winter conditions these seeds would experience outdoors.

Remember that requirements can vary by specific species and even cultivar, so it's always best to check the seed packet or supplier's instructions if you have them.

Common Flowers & Ornamental Plants:

Many perennials native to temperate climates fall into this category.

* Milkweed (Asclepias species - includes Butterfly Weed)
* Coneflower (Echinacea species)
* Black-Eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta)
* Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia)
* Columbine (Aquilegia species)
* Lupine (Lupinus species)
* Delphinium / Larkspur (Delphinium species)
* Primrose (Primula species, Oenothera speciosa)
* Penstemon / Beardtongue (Penstemon species)
* Baptisia / False Indigo (Baptisia australis)
* Aster (Many perennial types like New England Aster)
* Poppy (Perennial types like Oriental Poppy, Papaver orientale; some annual poppies like California Poppy also benefit)
* Yarrow (Achillea)
* Hollyhock (Alcea rosea)
* Phlox (Many perennial types)
* Viola / Violet (Many perennial species)
* Joe Pye Weed (Eutrochium / Eupatorium)
* Goldenrod (Solidago species)
* St. John's Wort (Hypericum perforatum)
* Bee Balm / Bergamot (Monarda species)


Common Vegetables & Herbs:

While less common for typical annual garden vegetables, some perennial herbs, biennials, or specific vegetables benefit:

* Asparagus (Asparagus officinalis)
* Rhubarb (Rheum rhabarbarum)
* Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) - Also listed under flowers
* Parsley (Petroselinum crispum) - Sometimes benefits
* Celery (Apium graveolens) - Often benefits
* Lovage (Levisticum officinale)
* Angelica (Angelica archangelica)
* Chives (Allium schoenoprasum) - Sometimes benefits
* Sage (Salvia officinalis) - Sometimes benefits
* Rosemary (Salvia rosmarinus) - Can benefit
* Anise Hyssop (Agastache foeniculum)
* Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis)
* Catnip (Nepeta cataria)


Common Berries & Fruits:

Growing these from seed (rather than buying plants) usually requires stratification.
* Strawberries (especially Alpine or wild types, Fragaria species)
* Blueberries (Vaccinium species)
* Raspberries & Blackberries (Rubus species)
* Elderberry (Sambucus species)
* Currants & Gooseberries (Ribes species)
* Apple & Crabapple (Malus species)
* Pear (Pyrus species)
* Cherry, Plum, Peach (Prunus species)
* Rose Hips (for growing Rosa species)
* Serviceberry / Saskatoon (Amelanchier species)
* Hawthorn (Crataegus species)
* Goji Berry (Lycium barbarum)

 

[SunshineSupergirl]

Here is a list of common plants whose seeds often benefit from or require cold stratification (a period of cold, moist conditions) to germinate properly. This process mimics the natural winter conditions these seeds would experience outdoors.

Remember that requirements can vary by specific species and even cultivar, so it's always best to check the seed packet or supplier's instructions if you have them.

Common Flowers & Ornamental Plants:

Many perennials native to temperate climates fall into this category.

* Milkweed (Asclepias species - includes Butterfly Weed)
* Coneflower (Echinacea species)
* Black-Eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta)
* Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia)
* Columbine (Aquilegia species)
* Lupine (Lupinus species)
* Delphinium / Larkspur (Delphinium species)
* Primrose (Primula species, Oenothera speciosa)
* Penstemon / Beardtongue (Penstemon species)
* Baptisia / False Indigo (Baptisia australis)
* Aster (Many perennial types like New England Aster)
* Poppy (Perennial types like Oriental Poppy, Papaver orientale; some annual poppies like California Poppy also benefit)
* Yarrow (Achillea)
* Hollyhock (Alcea rosea)
* Phlox (Many perennial types)
* Viola / Violet (Many perennial species)
* Joe Pye Weed (Eutrochium / Eupatorium)
* Goldenrod (Solidago species)
* St. John's Wort (Hypericum perforatum)
* Bee Balm / Bergamot (Monarda species)


Common Vegetables & Herbs:

While less common for typical annual garden vegetables, some perennial herbs, biennials, or specific vegetables benefit:

* Asparagus (Asparagus officinalis)
* Rhubarb (Rheum rhabarbarum)
* Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) - Also listed under flowers
* Parsley (Petroselinum crispum) - Sometimes benefits
* Celery (Apium graveolens) - Often benefits
* Lovage (Levisticum officinale)
* Angelica (Angelica archangelica)
* Chives (Allium schoenoprasum) - Sometimes benefits
* Sage (Salvia officinalis) - Sometimes benefits
* Rosemary (Salvia rosmarinus) - Can benefit
* Anise Hyssop (Agastache foeniculum)
* Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis)
* Catnip (Nepeta cataria)


Common Berries & Fruits:

Growing these from seed (rather than buying plants) usually requires stratification.
* Strawberries (especially Alpine or wild types, Fragaria species)
* Blueberries (Vaccinium species)
* Raspberries & Blackberries (Rubus species)
* Elderberry (Sambucus species)
* Currants & Gooseberries (Ribes species)
* Apple & Crabapple (Malus species)
* Pear (Pyrus species)
* Cherry, Plum, Peach (Prunus species)
* Rose Hips (for growing Rosa species)
* Serviceberry / Saskatoon (Amelanchier species)
* Hawthorn (Crataegus species)
* Goji Berry (Lycium barbarum)

My STRAWBERRY seeds Are Alpine Alexandria Heirloom, I should have cold stored them 1st.

I don't think they'll germinate, but I'm keeping them under the light a little longer still.

 

[Bobcat.Branch]

My STRAWBERRY seeds Are Alpine Alexandria Heirloom, I should have cold stored them 1st.

I don't think they'll germinate, but I'm keeping them under the light a little longer still.

What are they germinating in? Can you put the whole thing into the fridge? Maybe after 2 weeks you can bring them back out and they might pop? What have you got to lose?

 

[SunshineSupergirl]

What are they germinating in? Can you put the whole thing into the fridge? Maybe after 2 weeks you can bring them back out and they might pop? What have you got to lose?

I have six seeds or so in every pot.
I have 3 1 gallon pots

They are directly under the spider farmer light and currently getting about 195 PPFD'S

They wouldn't fit in my fridge I have a mini fridge in my studio.

 

[Bobcat.Branch]

I have six seeds or so in every pot.
I have 3 1 gallon pots

They are directly under the spider farmer light and currently getting about 195 PPFD'S

Stick them in the refrigerator!

 

[SunshineSupergirl]

Stick them in the refrigerator!

They don't fit.

 

[figolus]

FOR EARTH DAY I FINALLY PLANTED LAVENDER

250 seeds in the package But it's from 2022, so not expecting too many to geminate, but the ones that do, I'll transplant into another container.

My original goal was to have 1 big 5 gallon pot but I'm going to make room for some smaller 1 gallon pots of lavender.

Since the other 2 cannabis seeds didn't take, I'll have more room for other things right now.

At home in Provence, we just have to bend down to pick some up.... I managed to dig one up and repot it in a 30l pot it's magnificent

 

[figolus]

Le plateau de valensole

 

[SunshineSupergirl]

At home in Provence, we just have to bend down to pick some up.... I managed to dig one up and repot it in a 30l pot it's magnificent

True Lavender then!

 

[SunshineSupergirl]

True Lavender then!

Or is it this variant?

 

[SunshineSupergirl]

Le plateau de valensoleView attachment 2421242

WOW

 

[SunshineSupergirl]

WOW

Lavender is TRULY one of my favorite flowers/ plants.

 

[figolus]

This type of lavender is found in the Provençal countryside.

Spontaneous lavender or wild lavender (the best)

Lavandula stoechas or maritime lavender

Lavandula angustifolia
True lavender or fine lavender. Today, this type of lavender is the hallmark of French production. It grows wild in the dry mountains of southern France, at altitudes of 600 to 1,500 m.

Lavandula latifolia
Spike lavender. It grows wild in southern France, at an average altitude below 800 m. It is mainly cultivated in Spain, with very little in France.

 

[figolus]

Les différentes lavandes et lavandins - Distillerie des 4 Vallées

Famille et genre des lavandes Il existe différentes espèces de lavandes qui appartiennent toutes à la famille des labiées. Les labiées se caractérisent par des fleurs irrégulières en corolle divisées en deux lèvres avec une tige carrée et des feuilles opposées. Les lavandes font parties du genre...

www.lavandes.fr

 

[SunshineSupergirl]

So it's DAY 17 and I'm concerned about the tips of my plant "SUSIE" and her health. She's getting more yellow

My soil does not have much nutrients and I do believe it's time to add the 1/4 ratio of liquid fertilizer.

The soil is not wet or dry, in the middle on the meter, so I don't believe the problem is over watering or underwatering.

I also noticed some patches of brown a very light brown striated throughout the leaves.

It's looking more like she's hungry for nutes.

Thoughts?

 

[Dadman86]

So it's DAY 17 and I'm concerned about the tips of my plant "SUSIE" and her health. She's getting more yellow

My soil does not have much nutrients and I do believe it's time to add the 1/4 ratio of liquid fertilizer.

The soil is not wet or dry, in the middle on the meter, so I don't believe the problem is over watering or underwatering.

I also noticed some patches of brown a very light brown striated throughout the leaves.

It's looking more like she's hungry for nutes.

Thoughts?

How come in such a big pot? I've found solo cups to be super easy for first 4 weeks.