I appreciate the constructive criticism.
yet, but will do that soon. 
bein an auto she won't recover like the succesfull plant from 2022, but will most prolly end bein a real dwarf or bonsaï plant.
instead of bat guano better to get the 4-4-4 from dr earth for veg it has some other things beneficial for the plant in it than just NPK like bat guano.I'm going to stick with autoflowers next grow.
Will buy the bat guanosoon as well.
I would go for Photoperiods, but since I will have other types of plants in this window
for now, autos are perfect because of size and light needs for the other plants.
I apply the 1/2 in a circle
around the plant and go outside just a bit to encourage wide root growth. 
until you succeed having an healthy and vigorous start up auto won't be the best choice.
It's the best choice for me at the moment, considering my grow space and the fact that other plants need light.
My main problem with autos has been getting them off to a good (i.e., fast) start. There isn't an option to let them veg longer if they didn't grow as large as desired. I attribute my problem to the use of organic nutrients. It takes longer to get the organic processes going. Lately, I've used water-in microbes that are combined with fish and kelp fertilizer. The plants seem to respond well to it.
There's only a little vermiculite in the mix, much more perlite vs.
…we all want you to succeed. He has given sound advice over and over. If you go back and read and implement for next time you can make it happen.
We've liked the ones we grew successfully, potency-wise, but the yield has been a bit disappointing. I plan to grow some outside this summer. I haven't decided which strain yet, though.
I don't know about that. We grew some Green Gelato that was very potent with THC. I didn't notice CBD, so if there was some there wasn't much.
I can't say I see much advantage in growing autos for the tent grower. My thinking is they're best for short seasons outside or for commercial growers who need predictable growing time.
There's nothing wrong with that. I like growing autos. As I mentioned, the key is getting them off to a good start to take advantage of their predetermined and short vegetation time.
I don't solely rely on the meter.Please listen to HerbalEdu
And ditch the moisture meter, it is preventing you from listening to the sound advice about when to water.
The key to using a soil moisture probe is comparing the readings to other factors, like weight of the pot and status of the plant. If the meter is reliable (and some might not be) then it can be a useful tool. I use one every day.
My research suggests that ruderalis often has higher CBD and CBN strains available, but then again some Photoperiods have more, so it's depending really.
Thankfully I have multiple humidity measurements in the window
As I wrote, they don't need to be accurate. They only need to be reliable. Remember, the readings are being compared against previous readings using the same device. So, the device can be wrong if it's wrong the same every time it's used.
It's not actually digging, but worth keeping in mind, nevertheless. So, don't force the probe into the soil and avoid areas where the roots are most concentrated, i.e., the root ball.
Good point. It's a distinct advantage of using a probe. Such granularity of information isn't available when lifting a pot. So, I recommend checking different locations if there's an issue. Most of the time, when the plant is growing well, a single insertion is adequate. I also usually don't check if the plant was recently watered. After a few grows, most of us get a "feeling" for such things as when to check if the plant needs water.
