10,000 Watt 10 Plant 13 Gallon Rdwc [3d Model Incl. Inside Thread]

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cccmints

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why? as I see it, the only difference between the HVGC-320-1400B and the HLG-320H-C1400B is the HVGC-320-1400B allows for higher input voltages, other than that, they are the same (except the cost).

what is your planned input voltage? I'm running HLG-320H-C1400B with an input voltage of 240V. I also attached a 0-100K potentiometer to the dimmer leads which works well. I just don't know how to gang three drivers on one potentiometer, I know sixstring has done it.


they are both dimmable, the "B" on the end of the part numbers mean they have external dimmer capabilities.
My mistake, I didn't know the "B" represented dimming capabilities. I was looking at a few lists where the specific drivers with dimming capabilities were listed and the HLG-320H-C1400B was never listed for some reason. The HLG-320 is cheaper though so that's good. For input voltage, when calculating my fixture's requirements it comes out to 183 which means the driver can support that and more. What are you running on your HLG-320 @ 240V?

Figuring out how to link them together isn't something I'm too concerned about right now. I'm just trying to put a parts list together that I know will work and once that's complete I'll delve into learning how to put it all together.
 
h4ppyf4rmer

h4ppyf4rmer

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For input voltage, when calculating my fixture's requirements it comes out to 183 which means the driver can support that and more. What are you running on your HLG-320 @ 240V?

basically there is no need to calculate the input voltage. Anything from 110V to 305V for the input of the driver will give the specified output. Each of my drivers are plugged into a 240V timed outlet. Each of my drivers output drives six Vero29SE 3000K 90CRI 36.2V COBs.
 
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cccmints

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basically there is no need to calculate the input voltage. Anything from 110V to 305V for the input of the driver will give the specified output. Each of my drivers are plugged into a 240V timed outlet. Each of my drivers output drives six Vero29SE 3000K 90CRI 36.2V COBs.
Alright then if you're having success at 240v with 6 cobs and it doesn't matter much anyways then I suppose I'll run mine at 240 as well.

I checked out your grow btw. You're running a beautiful garden!!
 
h4ppyf4rmer

h4ppyf4rmer

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Alright then if you're having success at 240v with 6 cobs and it doesn't matter much anyways then I suppose I'll run mine at 240 as well.

I checked out your grow btw. You're running a beautiful garden!!

thanks...

the reason I chose 240V instead of 120V was that these driver are a little more efficient running at 240V and I had a spare 240V 15A breaker in my breaker panel that used to run an air conditioner };-)
 
h4ppyf4rmer

h4ppyf4rmer

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so after doing a little reading of the HLG-320H-C1400B spec, the resistance value of the potentiometer will be 0 to 100/N K-ohms where N is the number of drivers you want to dim. in my case, if I wanted to dim all my drivers (3 or them) I would need something a little larger than 0 to 33K-ohm(100/3 K-ohms) pot.
 
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cccmints

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so after doing a little reading of the HLG-320H-C1400B spec, the resistance value of the potentiometer will be 0 to 100/N K-ohms where N is the number of drivers you want to dim. in my case, if I wanted to dim all my drivers (3 or them) I would need something a little larger than 0 to 33K-ohm(100/3 K-ohms) pot.
I saw that formula as well. SupraSPL (another guy really knowledgeable on LED stuff, you may have heard of him) said with 100/3 = 33 and there being no exact pot on the market with that rating a 25k with 10k resistor would suffice.

These are the products I chose:
(10x) 25k OHM Multi-turn potentiometer
http://www.ebay.com/itm/0-25K-OHM-M...10-/252673687351?_trksid=p2385738.m2548.l4275


(10x) 10k Potentiometer resistor
https://www.amazon.com/a14052600ux1...26&sr=8-4&keywords=10k+potentiometer+resistor
$53

Of-course, as is tradition with this search for the perfect parts list, that may change following more research lol.
 
h4ppyf4rmer

h4ppyf4rmer

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SupraSPL (another guy really knowledgeable on LED stuff, you may have heard of him)
yeah, I've read some of his stuff... very knowledgeable too.

there being no exact pot on the market with that rating a 25k with 10k resistor would suffice.

that will work, just keep in mind that you won't be able to dim them to complete off...you'll be able to dim them down to 30% of full power which is probably fine. To be honest, I have mine on a dimmer and I haven't needed to dim them at all. They have been set to full power since I've turned them on.
 
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cccmints

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yeah, I've read some of his stuff... very knowledgeable too.



that will work, just keep in mind that you won't be able to dim them to complete off...you'll be able to dim them down to 30% of full power which is probably fine. To be honest, I have mine on a dimmer and I haven't needed to dim them at all. They have been set to full power since I've turned them on.
Yeah, I'm aware of that. I read you want to dim the lights down in veg is this not true?
 
h4ppyf4rmer

h4ppyf4rmer

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Yeah, I'm aware of that. I read you want to dim the lights down in veg is this not true?

I think you'll want to if you have a ton of light because the young plants won't be able to handle the full intensity. What I do instead is just raise the light (non-COB led) in my veg tent to 30 to 40 inches above the plants to start them lower it an inch or two every few days until I get to about 24" and the plants look like they can handle it.
 
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cccmints

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I think you'll want to if you have a ton of light because the young plants won't be able to handle the full intensity. What I do instead is just raise the light (non-COB led) in my veg tent to 30 to 40 inches above the plants to start them lower it an inch or two every few days until I get to about 24" and the plants look like they can handle it.
Yeah I think I'd want to dim during veg rather than raise lights because I'll be scrogging and I want the tighter node spacing and short/bushy affect close lights give.
 
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cccmints

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So I'm still on the quest to determine what the best possible fixture would be. I've learned that the data I've been using for efficiency rates of various COBs is outdated. It looks like this: is what I need to learn how to do if I'm going to find the best COB to use. Problem is, I'm not sure how to "Digitize the spectral distribution". It seems this would be finding the relative intensity of the wavelengths between 380nm-780nm.

This is fairly recent data collected by a member of RIU. It shows that the CXM22 is definitely worth considering at this current time and I really never even heard of it until contacting this guy...That is why I need to figure out how to do the math on all the competing COBs on the market right now if I want to build the best possible fixtures.

https://anonimage.net/image/4NzRx3Ycqt

4NzRx3Ycqt
 
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cccmints

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I can't edit my post for some reason...Anyways, I've been trying to digitize the spectral distribution and I'm definitely doing something wrong. When analyzing the CXM22 the calculator tells me QER = 4.72414 umol/j and LER = 355.463 lm/w

That can't be right...I'm using WebPlotDigitizer on the chart posted by luminus for the CXM-22. I pick the color of the line I want to use as the foreground color and trace it with the pen tool to create the data I put into a spreadsheet for the calculator and the numbers are off. If anyone has done this before I'd appreciate some help. Once I figure out how to do this I'll do a bunch of the COBs (even by request) and post em' here.
 
DetGrnThumb

DetGrnThumb

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I put this room together in 3 days and it's just fine. No need to over think it. 5 ton a/c, plenty of dehumidification and plenty of air circulation and you'll be all set.
 
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cccmints

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Over thinking is what I do! Lmao. I enjoy planning this stuff out nearly as much as I enjoy growing.

I've got the PSQC calculator working now. There was an updated version 2 posts below the original that you're supposed to use lol. Seems I'm limited to whatever the COBs are being driven at for the data sheets. Someone mentioned using "Cree supplies charts for current droop calculations." - but I haven't looked into that too much yet. I think I'm just going to figure out how to gather all of this data myself and purchase the various light meters I'd need + a bunch of different COBs and post my findings. I'm on a quest to crush 1000w HPS with LED without breaking the bank. I think that is very possible now. I actually believe LED is the cheaper alternative if you plan to run your grow for a year or so.

CXM22 3500k @ 1.1a x 51.5v (56.65w)
QER = 4.56938 µmol/W/s
LER = 333.856 lm/w
Efficiency = 45.1014%
PAR = 25.55w
PPF = 116.747µmol/s
1Glw441F2.png


CXB3590 3000k (CD) 36v x 2.4a (86.4w)
QER = 4.82549 umol/W/s
LER = 326.78 lm/W
Efficiency = 40.3772%
PAR = 34.8859W
PPF = 168.341umol/s
fiHesS3Ocf.png
 
sixstring

sixstring

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yeah theres been a few guys do the calcs on the various cobs and if memory serves me right it goes
luminous
vero
citi
cree
@ 50w but at 35w per cob the cree moves up to the second spot. and at around 75w the vero pulls ahead as the best.so knowing where you want to run your cobs helps decide what to buy.anything thats 50v will take a totally dif approach to driver selections and wiring.most the 50-52v cobs favor parallel wiring which i dont happen to like much lol.for series wiring the 36v cree,shitizen and 38v vero are the way to go imo. one thing vero offers over all the other cobs is the built in holder/reflector and also wire connections.so they have less extra parts to buy,no soldering,and bridgelux has been around for a while now so very high quality.i have never held a lumi cob so i cant speak on those but to me the shitizens are cheap looking and feeling and your solder game better be on point because the solder pads on those are kinda lame.i have some of the shitizen 1212 in operation here and you need 30 to 40% more cobs to produce the same light per watt,which means more drivers or bigger drivers so theres always that. the lumi 22 is also smaller than cree and vero in actual size,more like a vero 18 so at this point dont rule out the vero 18 if your looking at smaller chips
 
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cccmints

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yeah theres been a few guys do the calcs on the various cobs and if memory serves me right it goes
luminous
vero
citi
cree
@ 50w but at 35w per cob the cree moves up to the second spot. and at around 75w the vero pulls ahead as the best.so knowing where you want to run your cobs helps decide what to buy.anything thats 50v will take a totally dif approach to driver selections and wiring.most the 50-52v cobs favor parallel wiring which i dont happen to like much lol.for series wiring the 36v cree,shitizen and 38v vero are the way to go imo. one thing vero offers over all the other cobs is the built in holder/reflector and also wire connections.so they have less extra parts to buy,no soldering,and bridgelux has been around for a while now so very high quality.i have never held a lumi cob so i cant speak on those but to me the shitizens are cheap looking and feeling and your solder game better be on point because the solder pads on those are kinda lame.i have some of the shitizen 1212 in operation here and you need 30 to 40% more cobs to produce the same light per watt,which means more drivers or bigger drivers so theres always that. the lumi 22 is also smaller than cree and vero in actual size,more like a vero 18 so at this point dont rule out the vero 18 if your looking at smaller chips
Wow Vero kicks ass past 75w. I think that's what I'm gonna go with.

zwMniF6DPb.png


So 1647.018PPF vs >2,000PPF (Solis Tek 1000w DE HPS)...With 28% degradation as you've tested that puts the HPS at 1440PPF in 3 months. I'd be surprised if the HPS bulb really reaches those numbers in initial out put anyways to be honest. But I think I've finally got a cost-effective match or maybe even superior fixture to HPS with the Vero 29 SE Gen 7 3000k running @ 38.7v x 2.1a (81.27w).

Total cost of the fixture would be around $776.60.
 
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