10 Blue Dream Trees - 11kw Vertical

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First off, this garden is compliant with all California state laws as the operators of it do possess state issued medical marijuana cards, abide by Prop 215, SB 420, AG Guidelines, and we are ethical people. Second, this garden provides me not just with medicine that I can ingest, but also medicine in the form of Horticultural Therapy. I enjoy the scientific and experimental aspects of cannabis cultivation very much and I also enjoy many other biological and metaphysical sciences.
I may have a lot of questions and I hope that the data I provide will be enough to help others learn and to help all of you guide me and advise me on what to do to produce a healthy crop and beautiful harvest, for which I would be very grateful.

Basics: 11 Dimmable 1000w Lights hung vertically, 10 Blue Dream, 25g Smart Pots, CO2, H&G Nutrients, Sealed Room, Canna Coco&Perlite 70/30


Room specs and gear:
Insulated and drywalled
Built 24ft dividing wall
2 coats Killz gold bucket
2 coats Elastomeric
Poly on top of cement floor
Chain link fence on ceiling
40 cinder blocks painted white
Shelving - tables for smart pots to sit on

125amps dedicated to the room
11 - 1000w Quantum Ballasts 220v - 10 outside and 1 inside
12 MH and 12 HPS bulbs
3 - 2 ton mini split inverter a/c's
3 - 55 gallon black barrels for RO reservoirs
small air pumps to oxygenate RO Reservoirs
4 - 35 gallon nutrient reservoirs wrapped in Reflectix - recirculating the solution with one 250gph pump attached to a hose
-Steel wire fencing and orange construction fencing for possible vertical scrog experiments
Laser Temp Gun
Bluelab Combo Meters
Quantum Infinite Breeze Fans
Floor fans for air flow on vertical bulbs
Can Filter w/12inch Vortex
1 -75 pint dehuey
1- 100 pint dehuey
50lb CO2 tank
CAP ppm3 co2 controller
5 - UVB 10.0 26w Reptile Bulbs
Magnum XXXL reflector for the beginning stages

-All plants will be hand watered-
Canna Coco and Large Perlite
1 gallon coco/soil Blue Dream teens transplanted into
3 gallon Smart Pots with coco/perlite 70/30 transplanted into
25 gallon c70/p30 SP's

RO Water 0ppm
House and Garden Coco A&B, Roots Excel, Drip Clean, Enzymes, Algen, Bud Xl, Top Booster, Shooting Powder, Magic Green
Dutch Masters - Silica and Saturator
Great White
Botanicare Cal Mag
Epsom Salt
Advanced Nutrients - pH adjusters
Green Cure
Sulphur Burner
Neem Oil

Security - ample

I plan to put the blue dream 12" teens on the table with the horizontal MH over them for a while. I believe that they have been under fluorescents for 4 weeks. I would like to use vertical lighting on them as soon as I can to encourage lateral branching.

1.)How soon can I transplant into the 3gal sp's after putting the teens in 1 gallon pots under the MH light?
2.)How soon can I incorporate vertical lighting such as adding a vertical bulb on each side of the table in addition to the light in the reflector?
3.)What should I feed them and at what ppm, or EC while they are still in their1gal coco/soil pots?
4.)Should I dim the light and have it closer or should I have it at 75% or 100% and have it higher? Exactly how far away should it be from the teens? I ask because some past subjects responded negatively when the "500w" light was 18 inches away.
5.) Just double checking, what is the ideal temp and humidity for them? I have the temp at 74 and rh at 55% but these can be adjusted if need be.
6.) My carbon filter and fan has only about 18 inches between the fan exhaust and the ceiling. Will this have some ill effect on cfm due to back pressure?

The plants that you can see in some of the pics on the table are not the Blue Dreams. I am replacing those with Blue Dream teens and will have pics of them posted up soon.



Everything is looking stellar.

edit: was thinking the smartpots were gonna dry out to fast but then read there 25g.


why not do directly into 25 gallon smartpots?

after a couple days under the hps you should be fine to blast them with lights


Here are the Blue Dreams. I do not know what ppm or ec to start feeding them. The guy I got them from said to start them at 1500 or 1600 ppm. That seems way to high to me as I will have these in veg for at least another 4-6 weeks. I am using a blue lab meter so maybe the conversion is different?? I have them sitting on the floor further away from the bulb to get them adjusted.

When can I put them directly under the MH, and at what setting should I do on the ballast 50%, 75%, or 100%, and at what distance should i have the bulb? I plan to crank it up to 75% today and have it 3ft away.
With the nutrient options that I have what should I mix up for them and at what dose? I plan on 500ppm measured on the bluelab w/ 5.8-6.2ph, but I want to get the dose just right so I don't get a nute deficiency or nute burn.
What level should I make the CO2? I plan on 700ppm.

I think I see spider mite signs on the lower leaves and some on the tops of the plants. I checked it out with a 60-100x microscope, and did not see the things moving. Ican't tell what it is, maybe nothing. It definitely looks like eggs on the leaves, and it has the white peppered, sprinkly kinda look. Little globes, like the tops of trichomes are all over, possibly eggs? I have azamax and saturator. How do I use these properly? Should I do a Dr. Bronners and rosemary oil mix instead? What is the best option and how do I do it?

I have already done much research and have an idea of the answers to these questions, but it is very important that I confirm my actions with the experienced growers first. I really appreciate any instruction and could use it right now.












I am 100% sure that I all the plants have spider mites. I just checked them out again with the microscope and yep they are alive and have laid lots of eggs. I'm not freaking out because I have heard that the azamax will get rid of them. Will I be battling these things forever? There is a solution, correct? I heard before that if you get spider mites before you start to flower than you are screwed - hoping that is not true at all.


it can be true, if you don't do anything about it they will for sure kill everything.
azamax is good, i would apply the strongest dose as per instructions. then about 4-5 days later spray again(for any eggs that made it)

if they haven't gone into flower yet (of not passed week 1) order some floramite asap. that should kill them (it's systematic so it kills the bugs from the inside out, that's why you don't spray it passed week 1, you should have 30 day coverage and they should all be dead by then)


ya if they are mited out with tons of eggs before you even flower.....you will be better of to toss them all and get some new clones after you bomb the room and then start treating the new clones with azamax.....


if you have the ability pull the plants out the room, bomb it.
as you're bombing the room, spray azamax. (if the plants aren't that big and you can manage to soak the whole plant and gently swirl it around that would be the most effective (knocks most of the eggs, and mites off into the mix)


Just sprayed the azamax, and will have the lights off for 3 hours. I called a hydro store to see if they have the bombs and they have the Doctor Doom brand. The guy on the phone said to leave the plants in the room while I set the bomb off, which is exactly opposite of DixinCider's recommendation to take them out of the room and set the bomb off. Which is the better option and why? Is the Doctor Doom stuff any good? I can go to another store to buy another brand if I absolutely have to. The store closes soon so any advice soon would be helpful. Thanks


I am looking into Hot Shot pest strips. It seemed people have found they work even when doctor doom did not. I will go out and probably buy both the doctor doom and hot shot strips while waiting for more responses.


neem oil foliar spray and pest strips can work well if the mites have not already spread too far.

I have a feeling you will get this worked out, just might throw your curve a couple weeks behind schedule.

good luck mate, can't wait to see it bloomin'



Very nice set up and ill be subscribing. I gotta give u my advice on the spider mites jusy from experience from growing 4-5' trees for cuttings in socal:
1. First...you ARE NOT totally screwed if you have mites. But u have to deal with them appropriately or u will be fighting a battle the entire time. People who lose gardens to mites and other pests usually find out too late, and/or use the wrong measure or solution for the scope of their garden.

2. Your scope is large my friend. There is a huge difference between what u are trying to accomplish in the end and a guy in a small hydrohut or flood tray. Your goal I assume is to grow 10 or so very large 2-3 lb trees. But all the methods so far suggested are not appropriate for your scope. But much better suited for a smaller garden.

3. Personally I would bomb the room first with a pyrithium fogger first. Use the little white ones and pass on the dr. doom garbage. Next, I would go to my local hydroshop and see if I could find avid, floromite, or forbid. If they have one great. If you find two of the three I mentioned then best. So after bombing, id wait three days and tree with pesticide and a good wetting agent (penetrator, cocowet, wet betty, etc). Then id wait three additional days and apply second spray of pesticide and wetting agent. Its best to alternate miticides if you can, but if all u can find is one type then that will work fine.

***azamax and the others are good products but are best to "control" mites than totally irradicate them. Azamax is really just a concentrated neem oil and simply relying on them will almost insure a 8-10 week ongoing fight with the mites. My technique will irradicate them forever and the only way you will get another outbreak is by reintroducing them. U can use the azamax or whatever else as a control once you irradicate them. In a garden that size you should be doing routine sprays on your mothers and clones monthly before plants even enter your flowering room.

***its best to use sprays immediate upon mixing. I throw out and remaining sprays after 24 hours as they lose there potency.

***get yourself a decent 1 gallon pump sprayer from your local home depot, and be sure to use long sleeves and pants. Contrary to common belief, as strong as these miticides are they,are NOT MODAL. Meaning that they are not systemic and they do not travel within the plant. They only affect sprayed areas directly so your situation is ideal and they will not affect the flowers in any way. Avid is commonly used in the tomato industry on fruit headed directly to your local grocery story.

You have a "bigboy or expert garden" there, so only use appropriate or expert level measures...


believe me this will be the post you look back on a year from now and say, man i wish i would have listened.

save yourself the trouble, toss those babies, get new ones and spray EVERYTHING IN THAT ROOM down with AVID every 4 days for 3 applications.

Keep that avid and every time you get in new clones just dunk them in a solution of it for a few minutes.

If tossing them isnt an option id make up a batch of Avid and dunk them in it every 4 days for 3 applications and spray everything around them as well.

Spider mites suck ass, suck ass, suck ass, suck ass... You want Avid or Floramite...nothing else.

Good luck man, cant wait to see this one thru to harvest!:harvest:
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