24-48 Hours of dark before harvest ??

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The girls are ready two plus weeks of flushing is done .

Now I've heard that leaving in the dark 24 hours or 48 or more (as much as two weeks?)will improve potency or trichome production .

Any body got any ideas on this ?

I was thinking to keep them in the for 48 hours and then 12 hours of light again and 12 dark and harvest .
 
dont hurt, no need to use your light on them anymore chop them after your dark days.i have ,but havent been latley,most of the time im just tired of them bitches anyway, i just harvest and move on.theres threads on here about this already look around if you dont get more opinons.juicy
 

motherlode

@Rolln_J
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if your plants are ready - ie - calyxes all swollen up fat and trichs milky with 30-40% amber then leaving them in the dark for 2 days only delays your harvest - need to leave town for a few days then sure - go for it

when weed is ready to be chopped its ready and no amount of old wives tale tricks are gonna make it more potent or weigh more
 

Surfr

Just cruisin....
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I have seen a few people do this with great results.. I personally saw a noticeable difference in trichome coverage and they bulked up a bit more. I will be doing this next week on a room full of Sour Diesel.. can't wait!

:character0180:
 
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I have tried with and without the 48 hours dark and can honestly say that the only difference that I have found is that you will have noticeably more red hair on your dried product. Red hair = lower bag appeal wear I come from so I would advise against this method if this is a concern to you.
 
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The girls are ready two plus weeks of flushing is done .

Now I've heard that leaving in the dark 24 hours or 48 or more (as much as two weeks?)will improve potency or trichome production .

Any body got any ideas on this ?

I was thinking to keep them in the for 48 hours and then 12 hours of light again and 12 dark and harvest .
Read a bunch on the subject.

Found this quote.

"The Stichting Institute of Medical marijuana (SIMM), the first company to sell marijuana through the pharmacies of Holland, has been investigating the medical possibilities of cannabis, together with TNO laboratories and the University of Leiden.

One of their discoveries has been that to keep the ripe plants in the dark before harvesting could increase their potency.SIMM’s growers separated a crop of mature plants, harvested half of them and kept the other half in absolute darkness for 72 hours before cutting and drying. Analysis of the resulting dried buds showed that some varieties had seen an increase of THC of up to 30%, while CBD and CBN remained the same."


Overall really mixed reviews. Noticed many people say it works for some strains and not others. If you plan on running the same strain for a while cut some at the end, some at 24 and the rest at 48.

I will do 24-72 hours just so my harvest falls on my days off work.
 
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My two cents is to harvest after they've been in the dark for 12-72 hours. In other words, don't cut them at the end of the day cycle. How much dark? Why? I dunno, I just like the results better when they've been in the dark...

And don't forget to KEEP them in total darkness as much as possible throughout the drying and curing process!
 
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I really apreciate the responces I've gotten on this thread .
So what I'm going to try is leaving them in the dark now for 72 hours and harvest on that morning . So I'll be taking them down Sunday morning .
And keeping them in the dark for drying and curing .
Have to find out more about curing .
This is all for personal use so I'm not worried about bag appeal and my grow are small because there is no space for more the two or three plants until I can afford to construct a room in the basement .

Thank you everybody for taking the time to help me out with your knowledge .
May all your harvests be bountiful .
 
J

Jalisco Kid

Guest
Take a plant(25% of your crop would give you a better ratio for an experiment) and put it in the the dark for two days, take pics before. Then compare them to the others. Pics do not lie. If you notice a dif. then send in some samples to have them checked out.
Plants make up this process during lights out, but I do not think they have the capacity to keep up the processes during lights out for days as they need the light to keep the process going. JK
 

motherlode

@Rolln_J
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Take a plant(25% of your crop would give you a better ratio for an experiment) and put it in the the dark for two days, take pics before. Then compare them to the others. Pics do not lie. If you notice a dif. then send in some samples to have them checked out.
Plants make up this process during lights out, but I do not think they have the capacity to keep up the processes during lights out for days as they need the light to keep the process going. JK

exactly
 
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Have to find out more about curing .
check this:
This method is particularly effective for folks who are starting out, those looking to maximize quality in a shorter period of time, and folks who's like to produce a connoisseur-quality product each and every time with no guesswork involved.

It's a very simple and effective process:

Cut the product, trim it per your preference, but don't dry it until the stems snap. Take it down while the stems still have some flex, but the product feel dry on the outside. This is a perfect opportunity to drop the dry-feeling flowers onto a screen and collect prime-quality kief that would otherwise get lost in the jar.

Jar the product, along with a Caliber III hygrometer. One can be had on Ebay for ~$20. Having tested a number of hygrometers - digital and analog - this model in particular produced consistent, accurate results. Then, watch the readings:

+70% RH - too wet, needs to sit outside the jar to dry for 12-24 hours, depending.

65-70% RH - the product is almost in the cure zone, if you will. It can be slowly brought to optimum RH by opening the lid for 2-4 hours.

60-65% RH - the stems snap, the product feels a bit sticky, and it is curing.

55-60% RH - at this point it can be stored for an extended period without worrying about mold. The product will continue to cure.

Below 55% RH - the RH is too low for the curing process to take place. The product starts to feel brittle. Once you've hit this point, nothing will make it better. Adding mosture won't restart the curing process; it will just make the product wet. If you measure a RH below 55% don't panic. Read below:

Obviously, the product need time to sweat in the jar. As such, accurate readings won't be seen for ~24 hours, assuming the flowers are in the optimal cure zone. If you're curing the product for long-term storage, give the flowers 4-5 days for an accurate reading. If the product is sill very wet, a +70% RH reading will show within hours. If you see the RH rising ~1% per hour, keep a close eye on the product, as it's likely too moist.
 
I have seen a few people do this with great results.. I personally saw a noticeable difference in trichome coverage and they bulked up a bit more. I will be doing this next week on a room full of Sour Diesel.. can't wait!

:character0180:
Agreed! There is a very noticeable difference in trichome coverage, size, and further swelling of calyxes if you actually take before and after pics. The caveat, though, is that this is all strain-dependent! Hence, why there's always people on both sides.

DGS at the mag, has a post somewhere detailing this better than I can! (WITH PICS)
 
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I use the same method that nuttso posted. I try to keep it in the 61-55% range for as long as possible. Awesome curing method with no guesswork.
 
Rumors! The dark process for the last 24-72 hours allows for the breakdown and flushing of chlorophyll before harvest, making for a markedly smoother smoke and more floral flavors to be expressed. As for upping THC levels, I'd say that a superior smoking experience would give you the placebo effect of a higher THC content. That said, if someone could produce a multiple plant study where a gas chromatograph consistently measured higher levels in dark roomed plants, I'd would gratefully be wrong.

As an aside, I also use two days of dark in the middle of my flower cycle when I'm trying to identify new genetics. The dark consistently forces any hermies to show their ugly heads for slaughter and removal from my mom stock. Not for everyone, but if you breed your own seed it's essential to remove any intersex traits from the genetic pool. I also don't breed with males that throw girl parts at me. You can quote me on that.
 
Much love for the fact checking, Mother! I got so tired of being misinformed myself that I'm going to college for this shit just to have my own references.

On chlorophyll breakdown-

Leaf Senescence: Correlated with Increased Levels of Membrane Permeability and Lipid Peroxidation, and Decreased Levels of Superoxide Dismutase and Catalase
by Rajinder S. Dhindsa, Pamela Plumb-Dhindsa and Trevor A. Thorpe

Department of Biology, University of Calgary, Alberta, Canada

"The changes in membrane permeability (soluble leakage), lipid peroxidation, and activities of superoxide dismutase (SOD) and catalase have been studied during in situ senescence of leaves of Nicotiana tabacum L., cv. Wisconsin 38. After full leaf expansion was reached there was a rapid, almost linear increase in the rate of 86Rb leakage from the preloaded leaf discs, with leaf age. Parallel with this increase in membrane permeability was a cumulative increase in the level of lipid peroxidation. At the same leaf age there were changes in the activities of SOD and catalase. SOD activity decreased on the basis of fresh weight but did not change when measured on the basis of protein content probably due to relative stability of SOD during the senescence-associated general decline in protein content. Catalase activity first increased parallel with the chlorophyll content of the leaf and then, after full leaf expansion, declined on the basis of both fresh weight and protein content. These changes in membrane permeability, lipid peroxidation, and the enzyme activities coincide in leaf age with the decline in protein and chlorophyll contents and in chlorophyll a: b ratio. When the senescence of the bottom-most leaves was reversed by removing the stem from immediately above them, the senescence-associated changes in protein and chlorophyll contents, lipid peroxidation, and the enzyme activities were also reversed. It is suggested that leaf senescence may be a consequence of cumulative membrane deterioration due to increasing level of lipid peroxidation probably controlled by, among other factors, the activities of SOD and catalase."

Just says that a drop in proteins (flushing) along with degradation of chlorophyll (light deprevation) triggers ripening and finishing processes in the plant. If resin production is one of these outcomes in cannabis is as of yet unproven.

On light deprivation to induce hermaphrodites-

The Role of Chlorophyll Fluorescence in The Detection of Stress Conditions in Plants
by Hartmut K. Lichtenthalera & Ursula Rinderlea

Just says that the same chemicals from above in large doses at the wrong time trigger stress induced abnormalities.

Not trying to be a smart ass. It just comes natural.
 
So anyways, looking for a car thats good on gas mileage right, a trusted source turned me on to A Toyota Prius. Did some research(edmunds, car&driver, etc) and just couldnt find any specs or data specifically on Prius's But.. found out hondas (different manufacturer, but its a car nonetheless
have great gas economy due to variable valve timing) just couldnt find anything specifically on the prius but this is pretty close i thunk..

Im gettin the prius. Thoughts?
 
So anyways, looking for a car thats good on gas mileage right, a trusted source turned me on to A Toyota Prius. Did some research(edmunds, car&driver, etc) and just couldnt find any specs or data specifically on Prius's But.. found out hondas (different manufacturer, but its a car nonetheless
have great gas economy due to variable valve timing) just couldnt find anything specifically on the prius but this is pretty close i thunk..

Im gettin the prius. Thoughts?
I think that if you expect direct clinical research on the effects of light deprivation on resin production in cannabis, you'll have to get this prohibition thing dealt with for us. In the mean time the rest of us will continue to glean what details we can from the legal agricultural industry. The quoted study is over thirty years old and is regarded as a fairly standardized view of the maturation process in most plants, not just tobacco. You're a funny guy for someone who can't punctuate properly, though.
 

motherlode

@Rolln_J
Supporter
5,419
313
Much love for the fact checking, Mother! I got so tired of being misinformed myself that I'm going to college for this shit just to have my own references.

On chlorophyll breakdown-

Leaf Senescence: Correlated with Increased Levels of Membrane Permeability and Lipid Peroxidation, and Decreased Levels of Superoxide Dismutase and Catalase
by Rajinder S. Dhindsa, Pamela Plumb-Dhindsa and Trevor A. Thorpe

Department of Biology, University of Calgary, Alberta, Canada

"The changes in membrane permeability (soluble leakage), lipid peroxidation, and activities of superoxide dismutase (SOD) and catalase have been studied during in situ senescence of leaves of Nicotiana tabacum L., cv. Wisconsin 38. After full leaf expansion was reached there was a rapid, almost linear increase in the rate of 86Rb leakage from the preloaded leaf discs, with leaf age. Parallel with this increase in membrane permeability was a cumulative increase in the level of lipid peroxidation. At the same leaf age there were changes in the activities of SOD and catalase. SOD activity decreased on the basis of fresh weight but did not change when measured on the basis of protein content probably due to relative stability of SOD during the senescence-associated general decline in protein content. Catalase activity first increased parallel with the chlorophyll content of the leaf and then, after full leaf expansion, declined on the basis of both fresh weight and protein content. These changes in membrane permeability, lipid peroxidation, and the enzyme activities coincide in leaf age with the decline in protein and chlorophyll contents and in chlorophyll a: b ratio. When the senescence of the bottom-most leaves was reversed by removing the stem from immediately above them, the senescence-associated changes in protein and chlorophyll contents, lipid peroxidation, and the enzyme activities were also reversed. It is suggested that leaf senescence may be a consequence of cumulative membrane deterioration due to increasing level of lipid peroxidation probably controlled by, among other factors, the activities of SOD and catalase."

Just says that a drop in proteins (flushing) along with degradation of chlorophyll (light deprevation) triggers ripening and finishing processes in the plant. If resin production is one of these outcomes in cannabis is as of yet unproven.

On light deprivation to induce hermaphrodites-

The Role of Chlorophyll Fluorescence in The Detection of Stress Conditions in Plants
by Hartmut K. Lichtenthalera & Ursula Rinderlea

Just says that the same chemicals from above in large doses at the wrong time trigger stress induced abnormalities.

Not trying to be a smart ass. It just comes natural.



and that says if you leave the lights off chlorophyll brakes down and is flushed from the plant?

maybe I need to smoke more - as I am not seeing anything that even indicates tobacco being left in the dark in that example



So anyways, looking for a car thats good on gas mileage right, a trusted source turned me on to A Toyota Prius. Did some research(edmunds, car&driver, etc) and just couldnt find any specs or data specifically on Prius's But.. found out hondas (different manufacturer, but its a car nonetheless
have great gas economy due to variable valve timing) just couldnt find anything specifically on the prius but this is pretty close i thunk..

Im gettin the prius. Thoughts?

have you looked into the volt? :thinking
 

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