3D printed dual input drip ring

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JoryK

JoryK

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@Dosifry
The reason for the two inputs is redundancy technically.
the idea behind it is that you use a separate pump and timer for each input, that way if you ever have an issue with one of your pumps or timers the second, redundant, timer and pump will still work, so you won’t loose your plants.
Basically it’s just to cover your ass in case of an equipment issue. ...and they do happen a lot more than some people may thing, especially if they’re just starting out their growing career.
I’ve been growing almost 30 years now amd I can’t tell you how many equipment failures I’ve had in that time.
Fuck, I just had two fans shit the bed in the past 2-3 weeks and neither of them were a month old. One was just a cheap Amazon 2 for $25 deal that I got to help keep my es300 led cool. The other was a $50 Oscillating 6” grow tent pole fan from Growbuds. It’s crazy, it doesn’t matter if it’s cheap or expensive equipment, any of it can shit the bed at any time and, as a grower, you need to be aware of the possibility and plan for it, or you may very well end up loosing your whole crop one day due to an equipment failure. Good growers think and act proactively.
 
Moe.Red

Moe.Red

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Like this? Second file :)
Mostly about “I probably should have put this on sooner” though.
View attachment 1135922

To be honest I have no idea. I’ll look when I get to the lab tomorrow. I wouldn’t buy one that size for personal use. You can sterilize to almost completion with just a turkey frier and a big pot. If you want to want something really dead then a pressure cooker hits the same pressure/temperature and you can always toss an ampule standard in the center to make sure. 23L pressure cookers are $120 on Amazon and a turkey frier is chump change too.

On the other hand if you get astainless steel pressure cooker that size then it allows for other things that might come in handy. It turns out that bone, flesh, hair, fat, etc.. will rapidly become tan goop of a fairly neutral ph when autoclaved with some lye. Even teeth are reduced to just a few specks of calcium. In the worst parts of Mexico this process is known as “making pozole”.

God knows it is better than barrels of HF lol…

-Eskander
That looks like what I was thinking. Big enough gap to slide it around the largest stalk you might grow.

For the autoclave, this is not for "personal" use. I have an 18L fully auto but I can only fit a few mushroom bags at a time, depending on how much I fill them. I want to do 40 10# bags at a time and be able to roll the whole thing right in front of my laminar flow hood for inoculation. Still working out the details.
 
Eskander

Eskander

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That looks like what I was thinking. Big enough gap to slide it around the largest stalk you might grow.

For the autoclave, this is not for "personal" use. I have an 18L fully auto but I can only fit a few mushroom bags at a time, depending on how much I fill them. I want to do 40 10# bags at a time and be able to roll the whole thing right in front of my laminar flow hood for inoculation. Still working out the details.
We have an old vernitron. It has been a tank. Only thing I’ve ever had to do was replace the main seal gasket. Looks like it takes 3 phase though. Not sure if they made 220 versions or not.

You probably can't go from the autoclave to the hood directly because the bags are going to need to cool for a while before inoculation and you probably don't want to do that in the autoclave since they will come out wet. How are you doing the inoculation?

Printed in PETG the ring is actually fairly flexible. So getting it around even a 4” stalk should be pretty easy. One of the things that pissed me off on the drip rings I bought was that even with a cut, they are so rigid that they can't be slipped around much more than a twig

@Dosifry @JoryK

I'd rather not get into selling them because that would make this feel like work pretty quickly. If it is just a handful of them I don't mind but for 100 I'd strongly advise buying a cheap printer or two and cranking them out. Even PLA would be fine as a plastic choice and that is super easy to dial in. Firing up Cura with the design and hitting print is pretty close to the challenge level and in the end, you will have the parts, a printer and a new skill. Only mod you'd want to do on this is going to a .6 nozzle and .3 layer height so print time will be faster.

-Eskander
https://www.amazon.com/ANYCUBIC-Mag...3857293&s=industrial&sr=1-23&ts_id=6066127011
 
Eskander

Eskander

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thanks for adding a wonderful statement to my lexicon hahaha
Well... If it helps, I find that, "I've been to two rodeos and a state fair, and that is the stupidest thing I've ever heard." usually works its way into the same conversations.

-Eskander
 
Dosifry

Dosifry

187
63
We have an old vernitron. It has been a tank. Only thing I’ve ever had to do was replace the main seal gasket. Looks like it takes 3 phase though. Not sure if they made 220 versions or not.

You probably can't go from the autoclave to the hood directly because the bags are going to need to cool for a while before inoculation and you probably don't want to do that in the autoclave since they will come out wet. How are you doing the inoculation?

Printed in PETG the ring is actually fairly flexible. So getting it around even a 4” stalk should be pretty easy. One of the things that pissed me off on the drip rings I bought was that even with a cut, they are so rigid that they can't be slipped around much more than a twig

@Dosifry @JoryK

I'd rather not get into selling them because that would make this feel like work pretty quickly. If it is just a handful of them I don't mind but for 100 I'd strongly advise buying a cheap printer or two and cranking them out. Even PLA would be fine as a plastic choice and that is super easy to dial in. Firing up Cura with the design and hitting print is pretty close to the challenge level and in the end, you will have the parts, a printer and a new skill. Only mod you'd want to do on this is going to a .6 nozzle and .3 layer height so print time will be faster.

-Eskander
I can’t thank you enough for this information! I’m doing it!!’
No if ands or buts. I need a drip ring w consistent output. Even though the actual design and
Operation to make the actual drip ring
Is still Greek to me
I will try until I understand it and maybe even tweak things to my particular set
Up. I take it small customized barbed or threaded fittings would be possible as well? I had NO IDEA THIS UNIT WAS SO AFFORDABLE!! It’s a game changer for me as I like to experiment, try new things and ideas. I can’t thank you enough for turning me onto this machine!
Granted I’ll be clueless in the beginning but that’s how it all begins. I can’t promise I won’t hit you up for advice
Here and there. Thank you very much
To yet another righteous farmer!!!
https://www.amazon.com/ANYCUBIC-Mag...3857293&s=industrial&sr=1-23&ts_id=6066127011
 
Eskander

Eskander

77
33
I can’t thank you enough for this information! I’m doing it!!’
No if ands or buts. I need a drip ring w consistent output. Even though the actual design and
Operation to make the actual drip ring
Is still Greek to me
I will try until I understand it and maybe even tweak things to my particular set
Up. I take it small customized barbed or threaded fittings would be possible as well? I had NO IDEA THIS UNIT WAS SO AFFORDABLE!! It’s a game changer for me as I like to experiment, try new things and ideas. I can’t thank you enough for turning me onto this machine!
Granted I’ll be clueless in the beginning but that’s how it all begins. I can’t promise I won’t hit you up for advice
Here and there. Thank you very much
To yet another righteous farmer!!!
Feel free to pm me once you get it. I can help you trouble shoot settings so you’ll be up and running in no time.

As far as connections, I was just going to use friction fit down the hole for mine but adding quick disconnects with 1/8 npt threads is totally doable. I’ll add variants for that tonight when I get a sec. You will probably need a tap to clean up the threads as the print resolution isn’t good enough to print them in place. Sometimes you can just force them if it is close though. Only plastic after all.

I don’t think that a barb fitting would be a viable option. You’d have the stress riser on the weakest axis of the print and on a tiny feature.

Someone asked for risers so they can see them flow so I’ll add that too. They will be separate pieces though.

I’ll have to see how they print but I might add a right turn to the inlets to lower the feed line angle strain.

-Eskander
 
Last edited:
Dosifry

Dosifry

187
63
Feel free to pm me once you get it. I can help you trouble shoot settings so you’ll be up and running in no time.

As far as connections, I was just going to use friction fit down the hole for mine but adding quick disconnects with 1/8 npt threads is totally doable. I’ll add variants for that tonight when I get a sec. You will probably need a tap to clean up the threads as the print resolution isn’t good enough to print them in place. Sometimes you can just force them if it is close though. Only plastic after all.

I don’t think that a barb fitting would be a viable option. You’d have the stress riser on the weakest axis of the print and on a tiny feature.

Someone asked for risers so they can see them flow so I’ll add that too. They will be separate pieces though.

I’ll have to see how they print but I might add a right turn to the inlets to lower the feed line angle strain.

-Eskander
Fantastic!!! I will give you a shout when I’m ready. Much appreciated! Man I love this forum!😁
 
Moe.Red

Moe.Red

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You probably can't go from the autoclave to the hood directly because the bags are going to need to cool for a while before inoculation and you probably don't want to do that in the autoclave since they will come out wet. How are you doing the inoculation?
Thats actually exactly how it is done. Sterilize. Cool. In front of the hood, open the autoclave and staying completely in front of the hood, do the inoculation. But I'm derailing the thread so I'll stick to the subject.
 
Eskander

Eskander

77
33
Ok, I did some updates and added 1/8 npt compatible versions, stand offs to raise them off the bed and a version with right angled inlets.


Thats actually exactly how it is done. Sterilize. Cool. In front of the hood, open the autoclave and staying completely in front of the hood, do the inoculation. But I'm derailing the thread so I'll stick to the subject.

Choo Choo! We would cook the bags, pull them out and ignore them for a day or 10 and then inoculate with a liquid culture in log phase in the hood. Bag was closed by twisting and then a U turn held with autoclave tape. Never had an issue with contamination issues but it is kinda like brewing. You pitch a strong culture to start with and even if something else gets in there it is just going to get overwhelmed before it can get a foothold. Any reason you can't open the bags fully inside the hood?

-Eskander
 
Moe.Red

Moe.Red

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Any reason you can't open the bags fully inside the hood?
Load bags with wood pellets and water. Do not seal, fold over.
Put in autoclave and sterilize batch. Typically in an area steam and heat will not matter
Let everything cool for a day
Roll the autoclave into the hood area
Staying sterile, lift bags into hood from autoclave
Open bags, fill with air from hood, inoculate with grain spawn
Seal bag with heat seal bar
grow mushrooms

My problem is that I want to do this process in much larger batches, not tiny batches every day. Also want to use larger bags. But I don't want to spend $10000 on an autoclave.
 
pop22

pop22

24
13
Was looking at drip rings on amazon and had a WTF moment at the prices. Figured I'd rather spend a few cents in plastic so I did this design. In the end I want two lines going into it anyway and that isn't really an option with commercial ones. I would recommend against a transparent plastic and PETG is probably the best choice. I just used this blue stuff because it is easy to see if there are internal flaws before I print a bunch of them in black.

Comments? Suggestions?

-Eskander

@Moe.Red


View attachment 1135530
View attachment 1135531
Very nice!
 
JoryK

JoryK

75
18
Thats actually exactly how it is done. Sterilize. Cool. In front of the hood, open the autoclave and staying completely in front of the hood, do the inoculation. But I'm derailing the thread so I'll stick to the subject.
That’s killer cool man(I always wanted to try growing shrooms.
 
Eskander

Eskander

77
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That’s killer cool man(I always wanted to try growing shrooms.
Lol… I think you might be disappointed since he is growing high end edible mushrooms.
Roll the autoclave into the hood area
I don’t think you are going to be moving one of the big ones around casually. Ours is a bit shy of a ton from what I can tell.

There are a lot of pieces of lab gear I’d never buy used but an autoclave isn’t one of them. They are hard to screw up and they are sort of clean by nature. Looking on eBay there are some used ones for under $2000 that would let you up your game pretty easily.

-Eskander
 
Moe.Red

Moe.Red

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This is what I want to build. I might just buy it and save time over money.
 
JoryK

JoryK

75
18
Lol… I think you might be disappointed since he is growing high end edible mushrooms.

I don’t think you are going to be moving one of the big ones around casually. Ours is a bit shy of a ton from what I can tell.

There are a lot of pieces of lab gear I’d never buy used but an autoclave isn’t one of them. They are hard to screw up and they are sort of clean by nature. Looking on eBay there are some used ones for under $2000 that would let you up your game pretty easily.

-Eskander
Hahaha....I like to eat mushrooms too, but I prefer the ones that fill your soul to your stomach! Hahah!!!
 

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