3x3 480watt LED Multiple Strains

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Blastfact

Blastfact

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No one has any idea? Here are some pics of them now. They are getting better it seems but I would like to know what is going on regardless. Can someone please give me some advice?
Nobody really knows now days what cause's the pink, purple or red stems. Most just blame it on the screwed up hybrid candy ass fufu weed strains/genetics we have now days. In the old days before weed got ruined it could indicate ph swing issues or a nutrient deficiency. With growers now days keeping better tabs on ph and most common nutrient packages or systems fully loaded up those two issues have pretty much went away. The other is sun or light burn. If you have a really hardy plant now days which is truley rare. One can see sunburn on the top of fan leaf stems and that's rare now because our weed is so lame and weak that by the time most have got that much light/uv radiation you have done smoked the leaves anyway. Take pest issues,,, back in the old days your worse nightmare was a horde of locus destroying your outdoor grow. Otherwise not much messed with hemp/cannabis plants. If by chance you got some other pest which was rare you threw some 7 Dust on them and waited for the next rain to wash it off or you hosed them down after a few days and all was well. Now days everything attack's our plants because the terps that protected the plants have been bred out in favor of whatever the newest flavor or perceived high is. And Lord knows we can't use 7 Dust anymore as it all runs down hill, crashes and burns.
 
Anthem

Anthem

4,155
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Hi, I've read your thread here and you have some guys here that know there stuff and there recommendations are solid. I just like to add though I don't use any mycos, micro boosters, silicate or anything else you guys have been talking about....I have tried some of them except Great White ( too expensive ) I have half a bottle of Si on the self and I didn't notice any benifit that justified the price I tried the Mycos. and it may have helped with roots but $50 a bag? I use GH 3 part Flora following feed schedule in Promix type peat mixes & Floralicious plus ( for the past 1.5yrs ). I don't know I get the same healthy growing plants with or without....I think its added confusion to this old brain.

No doubt its all good shit but is it really needed for a new grower?
PC I have most definitely seen positive benefits from using Monosilic Acid. It does increase the strength of the stems. I need this because I have a hard time getting to all my plants after about week three. So the colas shoot up thru the trellis and I need the silica to help hold up the buds. Secondly I do notice the buds are dense. I just want to stress this is with Monosilic acid. SI and Monosilic Acid are not the same thing. If you go thru @Billfarthing’s thread ballin on a budget. It confirms the Monosilic acid does make rock hard buds
 
Anthem

Anthem

4,155
263
This is what I am seeing in this picture. See the color on the tiny new fan leaves just starting out. Notice the color? It is light green on the tip. To me this and The purple veins in the leafs and stems tells me you have a nutrient up take problem. I just went thru this. I turn every 11 weeks. I made some changes to my veg and I can now turn every 10 weeks. Shaving a week off of veg in my flower. I started increasing the light too quickly and what you see is exact what happened to me.
Drop your light setting in half for 3 to 4 days and you will see improvements in the plants. I believe the reason this happens is because the plant with too much light can basically run itself out of gas. When I say gas I mean food. Basically the plant can grow faster than the roots can up take water and nutrients. Make sure your PH is correct and dim tge lights. Your problems will go away
 
Buzzy12

Buzzy12

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So first question is, who told you to apply any Cal Mag to seedlings? That was a mistake. Seedlings should not need any Ca or Mg supplemented. Red stems could just be a sign of genetics. Dial in your temp and RH and keep it consistent. The baby plants could've been stressed out from the sporadic changes it seems like that were happening. Outside plants can handle temp/RH swings a lot better than indoor plants. Keep your temp closer to 75-78°F and RH around 60% and the plants should start growing more. Make sure your testing your ppfd, 100-300 is generally recommended for seedlings.
 
PipeCarver

PipeCarver

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PC I have most definitely seen positive benefits from using Monosilic Acid. It does increase the strength of the stems. I need this because I have a hard time getting to all my plants after about week three. So the colas shoot up thru the trellis and I need the silica to help hold up the buds. Secondly I do notice the buds are dense. I just want to stress this is with Monosilic acid. SI and Monosilic Acid are not the same thing. If you go thru @Billfarthing’s thread ballin on a budget. It confirms the Monosilic acid does make rock hard buds
Oh heck ya I don't doubt it works I forgot to add that I use Monster Bloom or Kool Bloom for 3-4 weeks mid flower so I'm still adding some shit to harden up my buds...habit more than anything...Once I grew nice big hard buds with my concoction of nute's I've stayed with it...I only started using the Floralicious plus a few years ago but I can see a healthier greener plant with it so 1ml/gal in feed 250 ml lasts a while for $40
 
Anthem

Anthem

4,155
263
Oh heck ya I don't doubt it works I forgot to add that I use Monster Bloom or Kool Bloom for 3-4 weeks mid flower so I'm still adding some shit to harden up my buds...habit more than anything...Once I grew nice big hard buds with my concoction of nute's I've stayed with it...I only started using the Floralicious plus a few years ago but I can see a healthier greener plant with it so 1ml/gal in feed 250 ml lasts a while for $40
That is one of the more economical hydro store lines. I am using their 3 part for my moms
 
PipeCarver

PipeCarver

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That is one of the more economical hydro store lines. I am using their 3 part for my moms
I'm all for economical & I find Its hard to switch up as I never run out of everything all at once and I'm not, not using nutes I still have.
( Cheap) I'm a bit afraid of any learning curve that can potentially screw up a grow and switching nutes mid grow is not a good idea for me.....So I'm caught in a never ending loop with GH products.....
 
C

Chris10sen

17
3
Why are you running added cal-mag and not silica?

Give them the silica, it strengthens the cell wall making the plant stronger, increases yield, increases heat resistance etc.

Farmers use silica to grow your food crops for the same exact reason.

Key to using silica, add the silica to your water FIRST. Your PH is going to go up to 8 or 9, use PH down until you reach 7.0. Once your water is neutral at +/- 7.0 you can add your additional nutrients in order.

If you add the silica after your nutrients, the PH will rise significantly, the nutrients will drop out, and the water will cloud. You can’t use this and it will have to be discarded.
I second this. Silica is a must!
 
C

Chris10sen

17
3
Well I can’t believe mine has a very good efficiency rating because i have seedlings and a monster exhaust setup and I can’t push the temperature below 77 degrees no matter what I do. I have the lights 36” above the seedlings at full power. I don’t want any stretching whatsoever. I am honesty mimicking sshz pretty much to a T lol. His yields speak volumes in my book.
4645B516 77D8 4D1E 92C5 D68F6822D8D4

I can run all 3 with no vents and stay under 75 degrees as long as by dimmers stay under 40 percent, with no ac and the dimmers on 100 … 92
 
BehindEnemyLines

BehindEnemyLines

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93
View attachment 1295074
I can run all 3 with no vents and stay under 75 degrees as long as by dimmers stay under 40 percent, with no ac and the dimmers on 100 … 92
Same with my set-up. I had to jam a lot of dimmable & efficient lighting in there, to get there, though.

I’m running at 40% and averaging 800-1,000 ppfd across the canopy.

Well actually I am running exhaust though lol.
 
TeeMoney615

TeeMoney615

62
18
Ok we have an official update:

Yesterday I transplanted all the girls into their 3 gallon final homes. The process went smooth and they had pretty good root development to be 13 days old. I put them in the same substrate: 70% Promix BX 30% Perlite. I gave them the following Botanicare nutrients per gallon:

2.5ml PBP Grow
2.5ml Cal-Mag
2.5ml Liquid Karma

I took a teaspoon of Great White Micorrhizae and sprinkled it in the hole before I placed the plants in the 3 gallon pots. Ppm was 275 and pH was 6.3 when I watered them. They look amazing and have recovered well from the low humidity and stress I placed on them from the light. I have the 480 watt LED light 19” away from them now at approx 35% power.

Temps stay around 75-77 degrees during the day and around 72-74 at night when the lights go out. Humidity stays around 45-55%.
 
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TeeMoney615

TeeMoney615

62
18
So first question is, who told you to apply any Cal Mag to seedlings? That was a mistake. Seedlings should not need any Ca or Mg supplemented. Red stems could just be a sign of genetics. Dial in your temp and RH and keep it consistent. The baby plants could've been stressed out from the sporadic changes it seems like that were happening. Outside plants can handle temp/RH swings a lot better than indoor plants. Keep your temp closer to 75-78°F and RH around 60% and the plants should start growing more. Make sure your testing your ppfd, 100-300 is generally recommended for seedlings.
I was told by multiple people to use cal mag at a low dose from the start since I was using distilled water.
 
Buzzy12

Buzzy12

Supporter
643
143
Interesting timing for the use of Cal Mag. In my experience, it's an easy thing to over do and the plants really need it in Flower, not the seedling stage. Magnesium is at the center of chlorophyll molecules, but it's needed in trace amounts. I do not have experience with Botanicare products, but I find it confusing why they recommend to use their Cal Mag supplement when the PBP Grow is derived from fish meal, composted seabird guano, kelp, rock phosphate, potassium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, and calcium carbonate. Obviously follow the label recommendations, just pointing that out.

Any reason why you don't use their hydroguard product? That seems like a good product to use, it increases microbial activity.

And do you typically transplant this early? I find it easier to water the plants when they're in the smaller containers until they've maxed them out.
 
TeeMoney615

TeeMoney615

62
18
Interesting timing for the use of Cal Mag. In my experience, it's an easy thing to over do and the plants really need it in Flower, not the seedling stage. Magnesium is at the center of chlorophyll molecules, but it's needed in trace amounts. I do not have experience with Botanicare products, but I find it confusing why they recommend to use their Cal Mag supplement when the PBP Grow is derived from fish meal, composted seabird guano, kelp, rock phosphate, potassium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, and calcium carbonate. Obviously follow the label recommendations, just pointing that out.

Any reason why you don't use their hydroguard product? That seems like a good product to use, it increases microbial activity.

And do you typically transplant this early? I find it easier to water the plants when they're in the smaller containers until they've maxed them out.
Interesting timing for the use of Cal Mag. In my experience, it's an easy thing to over do and the plants really need it in Flower, not the seedling stage. Magnesium is at the center of chlorophyll molecules, but it's needed in trace amounts. I do not have experience with Botanicare products, but I find it confusing why they recommend to use their Cal Mag supplement when the PBP Grow is derived from fish meal, composted seabird guano, kelp, rock phosphate, potassium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, and calcium carbonate. Obviously follow the label recommendations, just pointing that out.

Any reason why you don't use their hydroguard product? That seems like a good product to use, it increases microbial activity.

And do you typically transplant this early? I find it easier to water the plants when they're in the smaller containers until they've maxed them out.
When you grow under LED lights the plants need more Cal Mag. I am not sure of the exact reason without going back to research it but I know sshz and a few other guys have explained it before. I am using a small amount of all nutrients right now. From watching a lot of other grows I feel like there is no need to use a whole lineup of products. I have great white in the soil so there should be plenty of activity in the soil to help the plant’s nutrient uptake. Also with the transplant timing I just want the roots to be able to grow their whole life. I don’t want them rootbound until possibly later in flower.
 
grnmtn

grnmtn

754
243
I use the FC 4800s myself and you definitely need to heavily feed your plants to support the power potential of those lights. Grew same strains inside and out and those lights might actually do better than the sun! Just my 2 cents.
 
TeeMoney615

TeeMoney615

62
18
This is at 10:15AM. What do you guys think? They are over 2 weeks old now.
 
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TeeMoney615

TeeMoney615

62
18
15 days old. They look fucking amazing even after I totally ruined their first week of growth with too low humidity and the lights at the wrong distance. The Botanicare products brought them back immediately after their first feed. I am happy. iPhone has a great camera.
 
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TeeMoney615

TeeMoney615

62
18
18 days old today..can anyone tel me why they are turning a lighter green in the middle of the leaves? Something is going on. I have researched and I keep seeing manganese or calcium deficiency but I gave them 4ml cal mag.
 
Gmix

Gmix

1,666
263
18 days old today..can anyone tel me why they are turning a lighter green in the middle of the leaves? Something is going on. I have researched and I keep seeing manganese or calcium deficiency but I gave them 4ml cal mag.
Did you give them Cali mg before you saw anything or after.
 
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